Tien Shan mountains. Tien Shan Mountains: photo, description, length, geographical location The highest point of the Tien Shan Mountain
“Heavenly Mountains” are well known to any Chinese. This is what the Tien Shan mountain system is called in China. China is not the only country with sky-high mountain ranges. The rocky formation crosses countries such as Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, and Tajikistan. The ridge stretches across all of Central Asia.
Features of high mountains
The Tien Shan system has many peaks reaching heights of 6000 meters or more. The unique mountains also have an amazing ecosystem. Their appearance and views are indescribably beautiful, and the pits between them are replete with lakes. There are also fast rivers at the foot of the mountains.
The total length of the ridge is 2500 km. The entire mountain system is divided into the following areas:
- Central;
- Northern;
- Oriental;
- West;
- Southwestern.
The highest point of the ridge is Pobeda Peak. Its total height is 7439 meters. At one time, Pyotr Semenov and Thomas Atkinson were involved in research of the system. Subsequently, these figures published books about the Tien Shan mountain system, describing their travels and observations in them. They made many discoveries that helped to better understand the ecosystem of the Tien Shan range.
Famous mountain lake
Lake Tianchi is a natural landmark of China. It is located in the Tien Shan mountain system, 100 km from Urumqi. The height of the lake above sea level is 1900 meters. This is the same jade pond, the waters of which in ancient times were endowed with magical properties.
Legends say that the Goddess Sivanmu herself once bathed in the waters of the lake. The reservoir is fed by mountain glaciers, so the water in it is very clean. The nature around is untouched by man and incredibly beautiful.
In summer, tourists relax near the shores of Tianchi, but the water in the lake is not suitable for swimming, as it still remains too cold even on the hottest days.
Tianchi is a lake, looking into which you can see its sandy bottom, as well as reflections of snow-white peaks.
Climate around the Chinese mountains
The arid and sharply continental climate of the Tien Shan is characterized by snowy winters and hot summers.
The higher the mountain peaks are, the more precipitation there is. Some mountainous areas are subject to strong winds. The lowlands of the mountain range receive little rainfall and are most suitable for tourism.
Wildlife of the Tien Shan
The mountain range is listed as a UNESCO heritage site. Its territory is inhabited by ferrets, hares, jerboas, gophers, mole voles, mice, rats and poisonous snakes.
Birds are represented in the form of larks, sandgrouses, eagles, bustards and partridges. Of the large animals, the ridge is favored by brown bears, lynxes, wild boars, wolves, foxes, badgers, martens, squirrels and roe deer.
Sometimes in the highlands you can meet a snow leopard. This predator is listed in the Red Book, so they are a rare guest in all their habitats.
Tulips and irises grow on the slopes of the Tien Shan. Tansy trees, cedars, spruces, and aspens stand tall. These places are full of herbs and valuable medicinal plants. During the flowering period of various herbs, the mountain range turns into a colorful fairy tale.
Tien Shan and tourism
The main type of tourism on the territory of the ridge is hiking and mountaineering. Near the mountain range in Kufu there is a Confucian temple. At some bases there are ski slopes.
There are tourist areas and hotels around the mountains. There are restaurants, nearby cities have all the infrastructure a person needs.
In some places you can ride a cable car. The most popular hiking trails are equipped with parking lots for tourists. Sometimes at high altitudes there are campsites and hotels with private rooms. The Tien Shan is so vast and unpredictable that it does not tolerate a rash approach. It is best to go to the mountains with a trusted instructor, observing safety precautions, and notifying the relevant Chinese authorities about your route.
Tien Shan has stunning views, rare nature, clean air and healing energy in the atmosphere. These mountains have always been considered one of the pearls of China, of which, by the way, there are quite a few in the country. They beckoned and beckoned tourists to their heights, opening up unprecedented places for the bravest of them, etched in their memory like the best memories.
Geographical position. Tien Shan is one of the largest mountain systems in Asia. Translated from Chinese, Tien Shan means “heavenly mountains”. The territory of Kazakhstan includes almost the entire Northern Tien Shan, parts of the Central and Western Tien Shan.
The Central Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins from the powerful mountain node Khan Tengri (6995 m), at the junction of the borders of China, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Further it extends to the west along a series of ridges. The largest of them is Tersky Alatau. The border with Kyrgyzstan runs along its eastern branch.
The Northern Tien Shan includes the following ranges: Ketmen, Kungey Alatau, Trans-Ili Alatau, Chu-Ili Mountains and Kyrgyz Alatau.
The Western Tien Shan includes the Talas ridge and the Ugamsky and Korzhintau ridges extending from it in the southeast direction.
Karatau is located entirely within Kazakhstan - the most extreme, heavily destroyed region of the Tien Shan.
Relief, geological structure and minerals. The Tien Shan is located in the ancient synclinal belt. It is composed of metamorphosed shales, sandstones, gneisses, limestones and volcanic rocks of Precambrian and Lower Paleozoic deposits. Later continental and lacustrine deposits are concentrated on the mountain plains. They consist of clayey, sandy and moraine deposits. Main mountain systems:
Trans-Ili Alatau is the northernmost high-mountain ridge of the Tien Shan, has a length of 350 km, a width of 30-40 km, and an average height of 4000 m.
The Trans-Ili Alatau rises towards the Talgar and Chiliko-Kemin mountains (Talgar peak - 4973 m), and in the eastern direction, towards the Dalashyk and Tore tracts, it noticeably decreases (3300-3400 m). The northern slopes of the mountains are especially clearly cut by numerous rivers, which indicates the influence of the Ice Age on them.
The Trans-Ili Alatau is composed of ancient sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - sandstones, porphyries, granites and gneisses. As a result of the formation of the Caledonian and Hercynian folds in the Paleozoic, and then repeated uplift during the Alpine mountain-building process, the mountain structure became block-folded.
An alpine type of relief has developed on the peaks. Pointed peaks alternate with intermountain plains. Some mountain areas have a stepped relief shape.
Ketmen - one of the mid-mountain ridges - is located in the eastern part of the Tien Shan. Its length within Kazakhstan is 300 km, width - 50 km, height - 3500 m. It is formed from effusive sedimentary rocks of the Paleozoic. In some places granite protrudes onto the surface of the relief. The slopes of Ketmen are dissected by the rivers of the Ili basin.
Kungey Alatau is included within the borders of Kazakhstan only on the northern slopes of its eastern part. The average height of this mountain range is 3800-4200 m. The eastern part of Kungei Alatau and Trans-Ili Alatau is separated by the valleys of the Charyn and Chilik rivers and the intermountain plain Zhalanash. The slopes of Kungei of the Northern Alatau are relatively flat and highly dissected, the peaks are leveled.
The Chu-Ili Mountains are located in the north-west of the Trans-Ili Alatau. They consist of individual hills that have undergone destruction and severe erosion (Dolankara, Kulzhabas, Kindiktas, Khantau, Alaigyr, etc.). The average height is 1000-1200 m. The highest point is Aitau, its height is 1800 m. The Chu-Ili Mountains were formed from Precambrian metamorphic rocks and thick layers of gneiss. Their surfaces are composed of sedimentary-effusive rocks of the Lower Paleozoic - shales, sandstones. The slopes of the mountains are dry, dissected by deep gorges, the peaks are leveled, to the northwest of these mountains the Betpakdala plateau is located.
The Kyrgyz Alatau is a large mountain system; its northern slope of the western part is located on the territory of Kazakhstan. Its highest peak is Western Alamedin Peak - 4875 m. In the Kazakhstan part, the height of the mountains does not exceed 4500 m. To the west they decrease. The northern slopes are subsided and destroyed mountains. The surface of the ridge is composed of sandstones, limestones and granites of the Carboniferous period. The ridge has an uneven, highly dissected surface. On the border with Kyrgyzstan, this ridge has an alpine relief type.
The Western Tien Shan within Kazakhstan begins south of the Kyrgyz ridge, beyond the Talas Valley. The Talas Alatau chain rises here (in the vicinity of the city of Taraz).
The Kazakhstani part of the Talas Alatau is the Zhabagly Mountains and the Sairam Range. The Zhabagly Mountains are divided into two mountain ranges: they form the Aksu-Zhabagly river basin (the height of the northern ridge is 2600-2800 m, the southern ridge is 3500 m). They are also composed of sedimentary and igneous rocks of the Paleozoic. The mountain slopes are dissected, bear traces of ancient glaciation, and are distinguished by an alpine type of relief.
The Tashkent Mountains consist of several mountain ranges extending southwest from the Talas Alatau. These include the Sairam Mountains (the highest point is Sairam Peak 4220 m), Koksu (the highest point - 3468 m), Ugam (the highest point 3560 m), Karzhantau (2839 m), Kazykurt (1700 m). Their geological histories are similar. All of them are composed of Paleozoic limestones. The mountain slopes are steep and the terrain is dissected. Karst phenomena are widespread.
The Karatau ridge is located on the western edge of the Western Tien Shan. It extends in a northwest direction for 400 km, its average height is 1800 m. The highest point is Mynzhylky (2176 m). To the north-west it decreases and already at the confluence of the dry beds of the Sarysu and Chu rivers, the mountain becomes a plateau. In terms of geological structure and relief, Karatau is similar to the Chu-Ili Mountains. It settles, collapses and levels out. The northeastern and southwestern mountain ranges of the Karatau ridge are separated by intermountain valleys. If its southwestern ridge was formed from Proterozoic metamorphic rocks, then the northeastern ridge was formed from Paleozoic sandstones and shales.
The valleys located between the two ridges are composed of red clay. Mesozoic and Cenozoic deposits of limestone, sandstone and clay are also widespread. The local relief was formed under dry climate conditions. There is no constant surface runoff. The slopes are dissected by large and small gorges and dry river beds.
A large reserve of minerals was found on the territory of Karatau. They are used to produce lead and zinc at the Shymkent Lead-Zinc Plant and to provide phosphorus raw materials to chemical plants in Taraz. Ores are mined by open-pit mining. Karatau is a source of building materials - gypsum, cement, etc., which gives the state large profits. The folded base of the southwestern and southern parts of the ridge formed in the Paleozoic era.
The main appearance of the Tien Shan relief was formed during mountain building in the Neogene and Anthropogen periods of the Cenozoic era. Proof of this is the earthquakes occurring in the Tien Shan. The general appearance of the mountain relief is not the same. The mountains alternate between high peaks, ridges with intermountain valleys, hilly plains, etc. The altitudinal belt of the mountains is formed in direct dependence on the geographical location and layout of the mountain ranges.
Climate, rivers and glaciers. The climate of the Kazakh part of the Tien Shan mountain system is dry, unstable, formed in winter under the influence of polar and in summer tropical air masses. It is influenced by Arctic air masses and the Siberian anticyclone. The height of mountain ranges and the variety of terrain affect the supply of heat and moisture. Therefore, in autumn and spring there are often frosts in the foothills of the Tien Shan. In the summer months, hot winds often blow - hot winds. The dry continental climate of the plains in the mountains gives way to a moderately humid continental climate. Winter is long, from October to April-May, summer is much shorter.
In Kungey and Terskey Alatau, snow sometimes falls as early as August and it becomes quite cold. Even in May-June there are often frosts. Real summer comes only in July.
The time of heaviest precipitation is May. If during this period it rains at the foot of the mountain, then snow falls on its peaks.
On the northern slopes of the Trans-Ili Alatau, even in the winter months there are often warm days. During the day the snow melts, at night the puddles become covered with ice. Such a sudden change in weather has a destructive effect on the rock.
The climate of the Western Tien Shan is influenced by the warm climatic conditions of southern Kazakhstan. Therefore, in the Western Tien Shan mountains the snow line is located higher than in the east. Here the average annual precipitation is higher - 600-800 mm. On the mountain slopes the average July temperature is +20°+25°C, at the foot of the glaciers -5°C.
Many rivers flow along the spurs of the Tien Shan Mountains and along the intermountain plains. The rivers Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, Talgar, Issyk, Chilik, Kaskelen originate from the northern slopes of the Trans-Ili Alatau, and the Charyn River originates from the eastern slopes of the Tien Shan. Many of them flow into the Ili River, the flow of which replenishes the water supply of Lake Balkhash.
The Chu River originates in the Kyrgyz Alatau and after crossing the border of Kyrgyzstan flows through the territory of Kazakhstan.
The Arys, Boraldai, and Bogen rivers flow from the southwestern slopes of Karatau. From the northwestern slopes there are some rivers that are fed by melted snow waters in the spring and dry up in the summer.
In the spurs of the Tien Shan there are lakes located in depressions between the mountain peaks. These lakes originate from glaciers. Below, in intermountain basins, small lakes form.
The peaks of the Tien Shan Mountains are covered with glaciers; their most powerful reserves are concentrated in the Chiliko-Keminsky mountain cluster. In the Trans-Ili Alatau there are more than 380 glaciers, which occupy mountain valleys with a total area of 478 km2. They are located in the upper part of the basins, where the Chilik, Issyk, Talgar, Bolshaya and Malaya Almatinka, and Aksai rivers originate. The largest glacier is Korzhenevsky (length 12 km).
In total, in the Kazakh part of the Tien Shan there are 1009 glaciers with a total area of 857 km2. Long-term melting of glaciers and heavy precipitation on hot summer days increase the influx of meltwater to lakes and rivers. This leads to water overflowing its banks and flooding. They cause great harm to the economy and pose a danger to human life.
Natural areas. Flora and fauna. The natural zones of the Tien Shan mountainous country vary vertically. These belts developed in direct dependence on the orographic pattern of mountain ranges and geographic location. Due to the diversity of the natural environment and the characteristic features of each mountain range of the Tien Shan, the same belts are not located vertically everywhere at the same height: in one ridge they are higher, and in another they are lower.
In the Northern Tien Shan there are four levels of altitude zones. If we count them from the very top, then they begin with glaciers, with alpine terrain covered with eternal snow. And in other ridges the belts begin at an altitude of 2600-2800 m, in others - above 3300 m. Here there are hilly hills surrounding bare rocks. Natural areas consist of subalpine and alpine meadows and high-mountain landscapes. The mountains are inhabited by leopards, mountain goats, snowcocks, and mountain eagles.
The next altitudinal zone is common in mountains of average height from 1500-1600 m to 3200-3300 m. Small-leaved and coniferous forests mainly grow on the northern slopes of the mountains. The plains are covered with meadows; on the southern slopes there are signs of steppe and meadow-steppe zones.
Spruce-forest belt.
1. Schrenk spruce.
2. Aspen.
3. Tien Shan rowan.
4. Honeysuckle.
5. Geranium is straight.
6. Siberian larch.
7. Siberian fir
Forests are found only in gorges. Animals inhabited by bears and roe deer.
The belt of low mountains is clearly visible in the Trans-Ili Alatau. Their height is 900-1100 m above sea level. They resemble the small hills of the central part of Kazakhstan. Various types of plants grow on the dark and dark chestnut soils of this territory: herbaceous, woody (pines), shrubs (meadowsweet).
The lowest altitude zone covers intermountain plains and the foothills of the mountains (they are located at an altitude of approximately 600-800 m). In these territories, signs of desert, semi-desert, and steppe zones are observed. Grains, melons and horticultural crops are grown here. Meadows are used as pastures for grazing livestock.
The altitude zones of the Western Tien Shan, compared to the Northern Tien Shan, are located 100-200 m higher. They are affected by the arid climate of Central Asia and less moisture. The types of soil and vegetation cover vary depending on the altitudinal zone. Asian and Indian plant species grow in the Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve. And the animals living in the western spurs of the Tien Shan are noticeably different from the inhabitants of the Northern Tien Shan. There are more Siberian and European species of animals, and in the West there are animals similar to Mediterranean, African, and Himalayan species.
Reserves. In order to protect the nature of the Tien Shan, its flora and fauna, reserves and national parks were organized. Among them, the Aksu-Zhabagly and Almaty nature reserves and the Ile-Alatau national park occupy a large place.
Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve (1927) - a repository of the pristine nature of the Western Tien Shan - is intended to protect 1,404 species of plants (including 269 rare ones), 238 species of birds, 42 species of mammals, 9 species of reptiles. The reserve is home to rare species of animals and birds: gophers, bustards, little bustards.
In the Almaty Nature Reserve (1961), 965 species of plants, 39 species of animals, and 200 species of birds grow. The snow leopard, brown bear, and deer are taken under protection.
In 1996, the outskirts of Almaty were declared the Ile-Alatau National Park. It is located on an area of over 181.6 thousand hectares, on the northern slope of the Trans-Ili Alatau. Important nature conservation activities are carried out here.
1. Using the tectonic map of Kazakhstan, determine when the processes of mountain formation took place in the Northern and Western Tien Shan. Why does the Tien Shan belong to a seismic zone?
2. Using the climate map, explain the unevenness of precipitation in the Tien Shan.
3. What is the reason for the arid climate? Is it possible for the formation of a climate characteristic of the Tien Shan in its individual parts? Why, if possible?
4. Show on the map the glaciers of the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan. Explain the patterns of their location.
5. What explains the diversity of types of altitudinal belts in the Northern and Western Tien Shan?
Draw on a contour map a diagram of the location of the mountain ranges of the Kazakhstani part of the Tien Shan.
Tien Shan or " Heavenly Mountains» - one of the highest and most visited mountain systems by tourists throughout the CIS countries. This grandiose mountainous country located mainly in the western part Kyrgyzstan a and on eastern China. Its northern and northwestern ranges reach Kazakhstan a, and the southwestern spurs ran through the territories Uzbekistan a And Tajikistan a. Thus, throughout the post-Soviet space, Tien Shan mountains stretched in a kind of arch, more than 1200 km in length and almost 300 km in width.
Scientists attribute Tien Shan to fairly old mountains of the Caledonian and Hercynian folding period, which underwent subsequent uplift in the Alpine era.
However, it must be said that the tectonic activity of this mountain system continues today, as evidenced by its high seismic activity.
Many glaciers give rise mountain rivers - tributaries of Naryn like a river going down a huge staircase from Tien Shan, covering 700 km of travel and gaining gigantic power. It is not surprising that the number of large and medium-sized power plants built on Naryn e, exceeds ten.
Remarkable in beauty Tien Shan lakes, and its main pearl - Issyk-Kul, which occupies a giant tectonic depression between mountain ranges Kungey- And Terskey-Alatau. Its maximum depth reaches 702 m, and the water surface area is 6332 sq. m. The lake is the seventh largest and third deepest natural reservoir in the entire post-Soviet space.
The most significant lakes of the Inner Tien Shan are also Song Kel And Chatyr-Kel, by now, considered to be drying up. On the territory of the Syrts and in the zone of low moraine relief there are quite a lot of small lakes; in the highlands there are glacial and subglacial reservoirs, they are interesting in themselves, but of no serious significance for the climate Tien Shan they don't represent.
Mountaineering potential of the Tien Shan.
Central Tien Shan.
Two areas stand out here - glacier areas South Inylchek And Kaindy.
South Inylchek.
It is located in the extreme eastern part of the country, on the border with Kazakhstan om And China, and includes eastern slopes of the Kokshaltau ridges, Inylchek-Tau, Saryjaz, and Tengri-Tag ridges And Meridional. This area is home to one of the largest glaciers in the world - South Inylchek, the length of which is 62 km, and the width reaches 3.5 km, with an average thickness of ice up to 200 m. There are also two " seven thousandths» peaks- Pobeda Peak And Khan Tengri Peak, 23 peaks over 6000m and about 80 peaks with a height of 5000-6000m. There are more than 70 routes in the area, but two “ six thousandths"tops and about 20" five thousand meters"remained unconquered.
The marked mountain areas have practically not been visited by climbers and still contain great prospects for pioneers.
Petr Petrovich Semenov - Russian geographer, botanist, statistician. In 1849 he graduated from St. Petersburg University and became a member of the Russian Geographical Society. In 1853, Semenov went abroad and attended lectures at the University of Berlin for three years. The idea of the Tien Shan expedition arose in him on the eve of his trip to Europe. Semenov himself wrote about this in his memoirs: “My work on Asian geography led me... to a thorough acquaintance with everything that was known about inner Asia. I was especially attracted to the most central of the Asian mountain ranges - the Tien Shan, which had not yet been touched by a European traveler and which was known only from meager Chinese sources... To penetrate deep into Asia to the snowy peaks of this unattainable ridge, which the great Humboldt, Based on the same meager Chinese information, I considered it volcanic, and to bring him several samples from the fragments of rocks of this ridge, and home - a rich collection of flora and fauna of a country newly discovered for science - that was what seemed the most tempting feat for me.”
Pyotr Semenov began to carefully and comprehensively prepare for the trip to the Tien Shan. In 1853 and 1854 he visited the Alps and made numerous excursions in the mountains there on foot, without a guide, with a compass, doing geological and botanical research. He also visited Vesuvius, making about two dozen ascents on it. Returning to Russia in 1856, Semenov received consent from the Council of the Geographical Society to equip him for the expedition. At a time when Semenov was already preparing for the long journey, at the foot of the Trans-Ili Alatau - one of the northern ranges of the Tien Shan - the Russians founded the fortification of Vernoye (now the city of Almaty).
At the beginning of May 1856, Pyotr Semenov set off on his journey. “...I traveled by rail to Moscow and further to Nizhny along the highway, bought a Kazan-made tarantass there and rode by mail along the great Siberian highway...” he told about the beginning of the journey in his memoirs. The route ran through Barnaul, Semipalatinsk, Kopal to the Vernoye fortification - to the foot of the Trans-Ili Alatau.
2 Lake Issyk-Kul
The study of the Tien Shan began with a visit to Issyk-Kul. With great difficulty, the traveler reached the then deserted shores of this mountain lake, covered only with groves of small trees and tall bushes. “Only occasionally,” he wrote, “from such groves do the felt yurts of Kyrgyz shepherds appear white and the long neck of a Bactrian camel is exposed, and even more rarely, from the vast forest of dense reeds bordering the grove, a large herd of wild boars or the formidable ruler of these reed thickets—a bloodthirsty tiger—jumps out.”
Issyk-Kul is a huge lake, one of the deepest in Europe and Asia. About 80 mountain rivers flowing into Issyk-Kul, originating in the Tien Shan mountains, but not a single river flows out of it. At the time of Semenov’s travels, information about Issyk-Kul was insignificant. Geographers believed, for example, that it was from this lake that one of the large Central Asian rivers, the Chu River, began. Semenov's two trips to Issyk-Kul, especially the second, when he visited its western tip, were marked by great scientific results. Having passed through the narrow Boom Gorge, through which the Chu noisily carries its waters, Semenov reached the Issyk-Kul coast. Here he conducted a series of geological and geographical observations and for the first time established that the Chu begins not from the lake, but in one of the mountain valleys of the Tien Shan. In his letter sent to the Russian Geographical Society, Semenov wrote: “My second big trip to the Chu River exceeded my expectations with its success: I not only managed to cross the Chu, but even reached Issyk-Kul this way, i.e. its western an extremity on which no European has yet set foot and which no scientific research has touched.”
Semenov’s observations established that the Chu, before reaching Issyk-Kul, sharply turns in the opposite direction from the lake, crashing into the mountains rising on the western side of Issyk-Kul and, finally, bursting into the Boom Gorge.
3 First ascent of the Tien Shan
The following year, 1857, Semenov went to the mountains. His companion was the artist Kosharov, an art teacher at the Tomsk gymnasium. Having left Verny, the travelers reached the southern shore of Issyk-Kul, and from there, through the anciently famous Zaukinsky Pass, they penetrated to the upper reaches of the Syr Darya, which had not yet been reached by anyone before them.
Having passed through the forest zone of the Tien Shan, Semenov left the detachment accompanying him with packs and camels at the last fir trees and continued climbing, accompanied by Kosharov and several companions. “At last we reached the top of the pass, which presented me with an unexpected sight; the mountain giants were no longer in front of me, and in front of me lay an undulating plain, from which snow-covered peaks rose in relatively low hills. Between them were green lakes, only partially covered with ice, and where there was no ice, flocks of beautiful scoters swam on them. The hypsometric measurement gave me 3,380 meters for the absolute height of the Zaukinsky Pass. I felt a noise in my ears, and it seemed to me that they would immediately bleed.”
The travelers continued south along the rolling highlands. In front of them lay a vast syrt plateau, on which were scattered small semi-frozen lakes, located between relatively low mountains, but covered on the tops with snow, and on the slopes with the luxurious greenery of alpine meadows. Luxurious meadows with large, bright flowers of blue and yellow gentians, lavender bathworts, white and yellow buttercups covered all the hillsides. But most beautiful of all were the vast fields, completely overgrown with the golden heads of a special, previously undescribed type of onion, which later received the name Semenov’s onion from botanists.
From the top of one of the mountains, travelers saw the upper reaches of the Naryn tributaries flowing from the Syrt lakes. Thus, for the first time, the sources of the vast river system of Jaxartes were reached by a European traveler. From here the expedition moved back.
4 Second ascent of the Tien Shan
Soon Semenov made a second, even more successful ascent of the Tien Shan. This time the expedition route went in a more eastern direction. Climbing along the Karkara River, a significant tributary of the Ili River, then along Kok-Jar, one of the upper rivers of Karkara, the traveler climbed to a pass of about 3,400 meters, separating Kok-Jar from Sary-Dzhas.
“When we got ... to the top of the mountain pass,” wrote Semenov, “we were blinded by an unexpected sight. Directly south of us rose the most majestic mountain range I had ever seen. It all, from top to bottom, consisted of snow giants, of which I could count at least thirty to the right and left of me. This entire ridge, together with all the spaces between the mountain peaks, was covered with an unbroken veil of eternal snow. Just in the middle of these giants stood one, sharply separated by its colossal height, a snow-white, pointed pyramid, which seemed from the height of the pass to be twice as high as the other peaks.”
This is how the Khan Tengri peak was discovered, which until recently was considered the highest in the Tien Shan. Having visited the sources of Sary-Dzhas, Semnov discovered the vast glaciers of the northern slope of Khan Tengri, from which Sary-Dzhas originates. One of these glaciers was subsequently named after Semenov.
In the upper reaches of the Sary-Jaz, Semenov made another interesting discovery. He was the first researcher to see with his own eyes the huge mountain sheep of the Tien Shan - the kochkar - an animal that zoologists considered completely extinct.
On the way back to the foot of the Tien Shan, Semenov took a different road, following the valley of the Tekesa River. That same summer he explored the Trans-Ili Alatau, visited the Katu area in the Ili Plain, the Dzhungar Alatau and Lake Ala-Kul. The completion of the expeditions of 1856 - 1857 Semenov visited two mountain passes of Tarbagatai.
By imperial decree on November 23, 1906, for his services in the first exploration of the Tien Shan, the prefix “Tian-Shansky” was added to his surname “with descending descendants.”
Fan Mountains - through the eyes of a leader
Russian Championship in mountain tourism technique (all-around) – through the eyes of an eyewitness
Moscow. Personnel training
Strategy and tactics of mountain treks
The story of one emergency
Valera Khrishchaty
Icefall
Peak Garmo, 6595 m. Traverse
Fan Mountains. Mountain trekking 6 class.
Traverses
First ascents
Tien Shan - 1993
Geography
We will talk here about the high-altitude part of the Tien Shan, which includes a fairly large number of peaks with a height of more than 6000 m. If you take a map, you will notice that only a small part of this region lies on the territory of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, while a large part is on the territory of China. Strictly speaking, the Kyrgyz part of the high-altitude Tien Shan is the Tengritag, Kokshaaltau ridges (its eastern part up to the Saryjaz River), and the Meridional ridge in a short section from the Marble Wall to Rapasov Peak. But if we take the area as a whole for hiking, it is worth adding here the “adjacent” ridges - the eastern end of Terskey-Alatau, Adyrtor, Saryjaz, Inylchektau, Kaindy-Katta, Aktau.The largest glacier here is the southern Inylchek, in the area of Lake Merzbacher its northern branch branches off from it - the northern Inylchek. Other large glaciers in the region are Semenova, Mushketova, Bayankolskiye, Kaindy, Kuyukap. The southern Inylchek glacier has many tributaries, including large ones, which got their name. The northern tributaries are the Demchenko, Razorvanny, Semenovsky, and Svor glaciers.
 Top view of the upper reaches of the Saryjaz and Tengritag ridges |
From the west, the area is limited by the level of the lower reaches of the Saryjaz River. The dimensions of the Kyrgyz part are 50-70 km in the latitudinal direction, 20-50 km in the meridional direction.
The Chinese part of the high-altitude Tien Shan borders Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. And in the same way, the highest point of the Chinese Tien Shan is Pobeda Peak, which in China is called Tomur. On the Chinese side, the high-mountainous Tien Shan (with an average height of 5500-6000 m and possible passes of 4700-6000 m) stretches for more than 100 km from west to east, having a width in the meridional direction of 50 - 70 km. This area is approximately 4-5 times larger than “our” side. And this entire area is practically unexplored. Strictly speaking, we can say that the entire high-altitude part of the Tien Shan is located east of the 79o05’ meridian and stretches east for several hundred kilometers (and further, but already dropping below 6000 m), approximately between the 43o and 41o parallels. The Kyrgyz part of the high-altitude Tien Shan in the “List of high-mountain passes” is highlighted in a separate section - “Eastern part of the central Tien Shan”; in the “List of classified peaks” it is scattered throughout the Tien Shan in alphabetical order of the names of the ridges. And in this area there is the northernmost seven-thousander in the world - Pobeda Peak (Tomur), 7439 m. Focusing on the ridges whose names we are accustomed to, we can describe a little the Chinese part of the area. All the ridges along the parallels - these are Saryjaz, Tengritag, Kokshaaltau - have their continuation to the east, another 30-40 kilometers, to the Muzart River. Moreover, considering that none of the athletes who are fond of mountains have ever appeared on this glacier. To the east is the already “developed” Chonteren glacier, and to the south of the village of Kashkar is the Kochkarbashi glacier. And only in the Kashkartau ridge can one note several dozen logical, but unpassed passes. In the area of the tongue of the Temirsu glacier, another six-thousander rises.The glaciation zone continues further to the east, mirroring all glaciers in the Meridional Ridge. The northern Inylchek glacier is reflected to the east by the Karagul glacier, and the southern Inylchek glacier by the Tugbelchi glacier. Both of these glaciers are 35-40 km long.
Here it is worth noting several interesting objects for future expeditions. First of all, this is a continuation of the Tengritag ridge - between the Karagul and Tugbelchi glaciers it stretches to the east for 30 kilometers before it begins to decline, and along its entire length rise regular marble pyramids - the twin brothers of Khantengri. The first of them is 6769, then sequentially - 6550, 6510, 6497, etc. The last of them, already at the level of the tongues of the Karagul and Tugbelchi glaciers, is 6025. The main body of the Tugbelchi glacier flows at an altitude of 4000 m and below, and already approaches these pyramids lead to the Tugbelchi glacier with grandiose walls - at least in that part of the ridge that we saw in 2002. It is likely that in this continuation there will also be no simple passes, and not a single one has been passed.In the eastern continuation of the Kokshaaltau ridge there are also independent very interesting objects - this is peak 6435 (according to other maps - 6342), which rises above the Tugbelchi pass, and somewhat to the east - node c. 6571 – 3-4 peaks above 6000 m can be noted there.
To the west of this node is the Kichikteren glacier, the eastern neighbor of the Chonteren glacier. The spur or ridge separating the Chonteren and Kichikteren glaciers is a direct continuation of the Meridional Ridge, which 40-50 kilometers to the south dissolves into the plain.
|
View to the southwest from the traverse of Kashkar village.
Entrances, approaches, decoration
From Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan there are two highways for entering the region. From Kyrgyzstan - through the city of Karakol (formerly Przhevalsk) along a decent road to the Semenov, Mushketov, Yu. Inylchek glaciers (to the Maidaadyr outpost), Kaindy. From Kazakhstan – through the regional center Narynkol to the upper reaches of the river. Bayankol (the road ends at the Zharkulak mine), from where it’s a 12-15 km walk to the Bayankol glacier system. Mountain hikes generally begin and end at these points. But if there are no special restrictions on funds, you can use a helicopter - for small groups as a companion (i.e., for transfer), for large groups - you can order and pay for a separate board. Today the situation is such that the area is served only by 2 Kyrgyz helicopters. (I won’t be surprised if there will be one next year, because last season one burned out, but I really hope that there will be a second one). The flight is carried out from two points - Karkara (Kazakhstan, through Kazbek Valiev), the Maidaadyr outpost (Inylchek river, Tien Shan Travel, Vladimir Biryukov).
There are several more camps serving clients in South Inylchek, besides Valiev and Biryukov there are three more. The first two plus one more are located at the confluence of Yu. Inylchek with the Zvezdochka glacier, two more are on the opposite side, under the slopes of Gorky. In Northern Inylchek, only Kazbek Valiev’s camp now operates (previously there were two). But according to V. Biryukov, this summer the Kyrgyz camp (Tien Shan Travel company) will also begin operating in Northern Inylchek. Through any of these companies you can visit the area, choosing more suitable prices. Over the years, I have used the services of Kazbek Valiev, the Dostuk-Tracking company (Bishkek, Shchetnikov N.). In recent years, I have been using the services of Vladimir Biryukov’s Tien Shan Travel company, also because I have many friends there.Depending on which check-in method you use - through a company or on your own - transport prices will vary greatly. I don’t see the point of describing them here - you can look up their prices through the company on their websites, but I simply don’t know the prices for self-hired transport - I haven’t used it for too long. As for the helicopter, I think these are more stable numbers. Today, a helicopter hour in Kyrgyzstan costs $1,800, and an approach from Karkara or Maidaadir costs $150 per person. When flying, for example, from Maidaadyr, you can scatter drops to 2-3 places in a flight hour and land at the beginning of the route (in 2001, using a helicopter, we delivered drops to Southern and Northern Inylchek, and landed ourselves at the lower part of the Mushketov glacier , thus excluding traffic along river valleys from the route).
You should probably know that to visit the area through any state, you need to obtain registration (if entry/exit is carried out through different states, then in each of them) and passes to the border zone (for now, the expected complication of issuing passes has resulted in additional payment). All this is done in different places (registration with the police, passes with the border guards), so I prefer to use the services of companies.On the Chinese side, things are somewhat different. In order to enter the area, you must obtain a military permit ($650 per group), a permit to visit the Tomur National Park (another $650), and insurance for all participants ($72/person). So far, today I know only one tour operator who undertakes to arrange all this. And naturally, payment for operator services will also be added here.
To enter the region for the first time, we used the traditional route to the Kashgar Mountains at that time - Moscow-Bishkek-Osh (plane) - Irkeshtam checkpoint (car) - Kashgar (car) - Aksu (train) - village. Talaq (machine). This journey took 6 days. We made our way back in exactly the same way, but it took 4-5 days. The second time we went directly to China, Moscow-Urumqi-Aksu (plane) - Talak (car). This option took us 2 days, and today is the optimal route to the area. But if we talk about departure from Moscow, there is currently no direct flight to Urumqi, so you have to fly with a transfer. From the nearest cities, planes fly to Urumqi from Novosibirsk, Almaty, Bishkek. Therefore, you can travel by plane from any of these cities. Probably, you can also calculate the option of visiting these cities by train, and then by plane. The entire route by train probably does not make sense, although it is theoretically possible. Maybe this option will one day become acceptable - there is persistent talk about the construction of a railway connection from Kyrgyzstan to China (Kashgar). Considering the speed at which the Chinese are building, I would not be surprised if such a road appears within a year or two after the decision is made. In the meantime, it would be good if a road was built through Irkeshtam - perhaps the drive through Kyrgyzstan, especially to the Kashgar Mountains (Kongur - Muztagata), would become quite convenient.
From the village of Talak, where the border post is located, you can also drive by jeep in different directions - probably to the Temirsu glacier. The path known to us, used in all expeditions (by the Chinese, the Japanese, and us), leads towards the Kokyardavan pass (you can almost get to the pass). Then a caravan of horses is organized (although it is also possible to start on foot) and after 30-35 km along the river valley. In Chonterex you can go to the tongue of the Chonteren glacier, where all the expeditions established a base camp. The route can be covered on horseback in 1.5-2 days.In the neighboring valley - Kichiktereksu - there is a coal mining plant. The valley itself is more extensive than Chonterexu, with many small settlements. Having gone down a fairly decent path to the plant, you can then go further by car. By the way, the trail here is really good, but it’s easy to lose it, which is what we did from time to time. In the upper reaches of the river (in a section of 10 kilometers) it quite often branches, and the chosen path may simply turn out to be a dead end (for example, to a summer camp). The main trail, however, goes 300-400 meters up or down the slope, which is quite difficult to guess. Sometimes local residents helped us get back on the trail, for whom we seemed to act as a visiting zoo. To the river valley Kichikterex can also be visited at the start of any hike.
We did not try other check-in options. One of them is along the Muzart River, along which the road rises quite far, and you can get approximately to the level of the Tugbelchi glacier. There are probably other options for arrival, but other expeditions have yet to get acquainted with them. There are a lot of dirt roads in these places, only local residents know them well (a simple example - our tour operator knew nothing about the coal mining plant and the road there - otherwise we would have immediately planned one of the ending points of the hike there.
