Czech Switzerland. Czech Switzerland: excursion routes from Prague

All entries about Czech Switzerland:

Czech Switzerland- a beautiful corner of nature in the north-west of the Czech Republic. The area adjoins the German Saxon Switzerland and is famous for its unusually shaped limestone cliffs, gorges and dense forests located in the Elbe River basin. In 2000, an area of ​​79 km2 officially became a national park and came under state protection. On the territory of this park there are several small settlements - starting points from where you can follow tourist routes, getting acquainted with the beautiful nature of this reserve. And Grzensko is the best of them.

Hřensko is a very nice and hospitable border town located near the border with Germany on the banks of the river Elbe. This picturesque village with half-timbered houses is considered the gateway to the Czech Switzerland National Nature Reserve and, at the same time, the place where the Elbe River says goodbye to the Czech Republic.
How we got there:
1. from Prague railway station by train to Děčín - ticket price 159 CZK;
2. by bus from Decin to Hřensko - ticket price 27 CZK.
All information on transport in the Czech Republic can be found.

We buy tickets to the side Decin, we take the train and go to Decin. By the way, the tickets are not tied to any train in time, the purchased ticket is valid for two days and the more people there are, the cheaper the tickets; for four of us we got 501 CZK. An even bigger discount comes when purchasing tickets in both directions at once.
In Decin we board 434 bus, which will take us to Grzhensko. There is a stop right opposite the station, but to be sure, we got to the bus station. The bus does not travel often - once every 2 hours (every hour on weekends), so we had time to take a walk and have a little snack.
We buy tickets right on the bus and go to Grzhensko.
And here is the sign “Hrensko” (you should read not “Hrensko”, but “Hrensko” or, at worst, “Hrensko”).
The Czech water slowly flows along the road Laba from the German side it is called more familiar to us - Elbe.
From Grzensko there is a ferry to the other bank of the Elbe (Laba), where Germany is already located. And a steamboat runs from Decin to Grzensko. Also, many come here by car. Previously, the border was closed. But after the Czech Republic joined the European Union, everything changed. Now this is a border crossing.
A beautiful view of the most beautiful wooded cliffs of amazing shapes and sizes opens up as you approach the Czech border.
These rocks are a real miracle of nature.
The entire small town of Grzhensko stretches out on both sides of the river Kamenitsa, which originates in the mountains, and here flows into the Elbe.
Along the edges of the gorge, like entrance towers, stand the information center and the Labe Hotel.
“Labe” looks especially impressive - it seems as if a rock is leaning against it.
The history of the region in which the village of Grzhensko is located began in the 15th century. Near the mouth of the Kamenice River there was a timber storage facility, and a mill also operated. Already in the 18th century there were four sawmills here, there were also several places for raft tying, and wood was rafted to remote places. A special feature was the powerful hundred-year-old trunks supplied to naval shipyards for the masts of large sailing ships. The next important industry was the extraction and processing of sandstone, which was transported even to Dresden. People also made a living by smuggling (Podloudnice trail). Salt, tobacco, cloth and other goods were transported here. In the 19th century, tourism began to develop in Grzensko, supported by the owner of the lordship, Edmund Clary-Aldringen. In the 30s of the 19th century, the path from Hřensko to the Pravčicka Gate was improved, hotels, boarding houses and inns arose.
And this is the main city square, as miniature as the whole city. On it, built in 1786-87, is the Baroque Church of St. John of Nepomuk, in front of which stands his sculpture created in 1756.
To please the Germans, rows of Vietnamese merchants with cheap (compared to Germany) prices stretched across the city.
An unusual phenomenon in the town is a lively trade in gnomes and statues for vegetable gardens. This unusual item of trade creates a very cute and funny picture, a feeling of some kind of magic. A wide variety of gnomes and other fairy-tale characters are waiting for their new owners.
Due to its position at the confluence of the rivers Labe and Kamenice, Hřensko, with its 150 m above sea level, is the lowest located place in the Czech Republic. Despite the very low altitude above sea level, the surrounding nature creates a very interesting effect, thanks to which you will feel as if you are in the mountains.

A little advice for tourists: life in Grzensko ends at 20.00 local time. So you need to have time to eat and drink beer before this time. And shops and shopping arcades close even earlier.

Hello friends. Czech Switzerland. Quite a strange name, no matter what is hidden behind it, isn’t it? And hidden behind it is a Czech nature reserve, located on the border with Germany. On the other side of the border it passes into Saxon Switzerland. But the park is famous not only for its strange name. What else? Now we'll tell you.

It is believed that in the 19th century two Swiss were invited to undertake the restoration. They were very surprised when they discovered sandstone mountains nearby, which strongly reminded them of their native land.

Artists, peering at the rocks of a foreign country, painted Swiss landscapes familiar from childhood.

Thanks to these paintings, the place was called Saxon Switzerland. There is another version: the artists themselves gave the place this name.

Centuries passed and the border between Germany and the Czech Republic passed here. Some of the magnificent places remained in the territory of Saxony, and some in the Czech Republic.

The Czechs slightly changed the name and Czech Switzerland (České Švýcarsko) appeared. The name stuck.

Since 2000, this area has received the status of a national park.

Bohemian Switzerland National Park is its official name.

Attractions and entertainment of the park

• The symbol of the park can be called the Pravčická brána - this is the largest natural mountain arch in Europe.

It cannot be reached due to the possibility of collapse, but you can admire it from one of several observation platforms.

The most famous of them is called Belvedere. It hangs over the Elbe Canyon.

• Near the Gate there is a hunting castle “Falcon's Nest” or Zámek Sokolí hnízdo.

It was built in the 19th century. Now it houses a museum, as well as a restaurant with original interior decor.

From the large gate you can get to the small one. They are called the Small Pravchitsky Gate.

Near the Small Gate you will see a sign leading to Schaunstein Castle.

• Move on. There you will see the Dolsky Mlin mill.

Now all that remains is mostly ruins.

And next to it is the Ferdinand Gorge, which received its name in honor of Archduke Ferdinand.

Elsewhere in the Czech Republic, the castle of Archduke Ferdinand has been preserved, where everything is still maintained as during the owner’s lifetime, and in the beer hall you can try the “7 Bullets” beer, based on the number of bullets that killed the Archduke and his family. The humor is black and bitter, and many people praise the beer.

• Another attraction of this area is the village of Khrzhensko.

It is famous for the fact that it was on its territory that a glass workshop previously functioned, where Bohemian glass was made since the 15th century.

You can visit it now to get acquainted with the accounting books of those times, see how glass is blown, or even buy something for yourself.

• Another offer for adventure lovers is an excursion to abandoned silver mines.

Here you can go down to find out how the miners worked, or climb higher into the mountains and get acquainted with Falkenstein Castle, located right in the middle of the rocks.

But all that remains of Tolštejn Castle are ruins. But from its walls there is a stunning view of the park.

• Another castle that still impresses with its size is Decin Castle.

It was a military fortress and residence for local aristocrats. European artists and even monarchs often visited here.

• If during the tour you miss the legends, go to the Wolf Board.

This is a stone slab with a story carved on it about a hunter who killed two wolves at once.

The mountains here may be small, but they are still mountains. Here you can go mountaineering, trekking, and rafting.

Unprepared tourists can feel like real rock climbers, although only with special equipment and an instructor.

The entire park is intertwined with many equipped walking paths. They vary in complexity and length.

There are special routes for bicycle fans.

Even though you are in Czech Switzerland, there are gondola excursions here.

They pass along the Kamenitsa River and two gorges: Quiet and Wild.

Another way to test your physical fitness is to walk along the Mouse Hole.

Despite the name, this place has nothing in common with mice. This is a narrow staircase leading to the top of the cliff. It was built on the initiative of Prince Ferdinand Kinski.

This video is longer, but also more beautiful:

Where to Stay in the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

Now many housing options have appeared on the service AirBnb. We have written how to use this service. If you do not find a free hotel room, then look for accommodation through this booking site.

We offer good hotel options in Czech Switzerland

How to get there

The best thing rent a car and do not use trains or buses. Driving around the Czech Republic is pleasant, plus you are not tied to schedules.

• From Prague

To get to this corner of the Czech Republic and explore the romantic ruins among the mountains and mines, you need to get to Děčín, the city closest to the park, from Prague Mosarikov Station.

From Decin it’s another 20-25 minutes by bus to Grzensko. You can also rent a bike there.

You can take a taxi - this is the most beautiful way. You will need to drive along the Elbe riverbed.

Don't be afraid to come here in winter. The waterfalls in the ice are simply amazing, as are all sorts of bizarre rocks, rare plants and other riches of this region, which we have already talked about.

• From Dresden

It's even faster to get there from Dresden. By car on route 172, after the castle, you need to get to the other side near the city of Bad Spandau. When you cross the border and enter the Czech Republic, highway No. 172 will turn into highway No. 62. Drive a couple of kilometers and turn left. Everything, in Czech Switzerland.

Saxony is famous for its works of art, luxurious city architecture, and ancient castles. This amazing land is also rich in beautiful nature and cozy resort towns. On every trip we try to diversify the program. We decided to devote the second day of our trip to Saxony to natural attractions. The main goal of this day is to visit the national parks of Saxon and Czech Switzerland.

Read the route of the first day in Saxony here:

Saxon Switzerland is located just 50 km southeast of Dresden and 80 km from Meissen. And again here I will tell you about the advantages of independent travel. Tourist buses stop at the Bastei Bridge in Saxon Switzerland on the way from Prague to Dresden. But Czech Switzerland is an unexplored tourist destination for organized tourists. Mostly independent travelers arrive in the town of Hřensko, the starting point on the route through Czech Switzerland. We have combined these natural parks into one day route. The road passed through the town of Pirna, where we stopped for an hour. But first things first.

Route of the second day in Saxony.

Meissen – Pirna – Saxon Switzerland (near Lomen) – Bad Schandau – Czech Switzerland (near Hrensko) – Decin (overnight).

Pirna is a cozy resort town.

The first stop on our route was the city of Pirna. The town is located 25 km southeast of Dresden on the banks of the Elbe River. Along the excellent German road, we didn’t notice how we arrived in Pirna.

First of all, we look for where to park the car. I really liked the organization of parking in this city, as in Germany in general.

Plenty of parking spaces in the center, next to the Old Town. There are open parking areas, but we chose level parking. It is interesting that instead of a restaurant or hotel in Pirna, a 4-story parking lot was built for approximately 80-100 cars.

Parking rates are affordable.

Everything inside is compact.

When we returned, we paid for parking at the cash machine at the entrance.

To pay for parking, we inserted a parking ticket into the slot, which we took from the machine at the entrance (pictured on the left). We paid at the cash machine in cash. As a result, we received a receipt for payment. (pictured right). When leaving, it was inserted into the slot of the parking machine.

Walk through the Old Town of Pirna took us about 1 hour. But this time was enough for us to fall in love with the town. We would love to stay here for a few days. Well, how can this not impress?! home Marktplaz area.

Pirna– a surprisingly colorful ancient Saxon trading town. It is already about 8 centuries old. Viewers of the popular German TV channel MDR named Pirna the second most beautiful city in Saxony. Many tourists come to this resort town. Pirna is called the gateway to Saxon Switzerland, a national park with many hiking, mountaineering and cycling routes. There are many ancient castles near the city. There is a water park in Pirna called Geibeltbad Pirna with swimming pools and saunas for relaxation after an active holiday.

Pirna is famous for its good wine. The tourist route “Saxon Wine Route” begins from this city, runs along the Elbe and ends in (the town we talked about in the last article).

There is a large selection of good hotels, apartments, guest houses in Pirna. To find and book accommodation, just follow the direct links below:

For profitable special offers and promotions of Pirna hotels, see the form below:

Pirna is also known as a global supplier of sandstone. Many buildings and sculptures in the city are made from this stone. For the first time in the world, sandstone even became a material for a modern local playground. Saxon sandstone blocks from Pirna were supplied in ancient times and now also to many countries around the world. Famous European imperial palaces were built from stone quarried in Pirna. For example, the luxurious palaces, sculptures and churches of Dresden. The slogan of the modern city is “Pirna – Sandstein voller Leben”, which means “Pirna – sandstone filled with life”.

We head along the shopping street from the parking lot to the Old Town of Pirna. The resort is just waking up. Some shops are still open.

Very original and cute souvenirs.

We go out to the main square of the Old Town (Altstadt). It's called Marktplatz, which means “market square.” Since ancient times there have been shopping malls here. Interestingly, the Old Quarter was restored relatively recently - in the 1990s. Many buildings were damaged during Allied bombing in 1945. Pirna was heavily damaged by floods in 2002 and 2013. But after being flooded by the waters of the Elbe, the city was put back in order again. Around is the traditional German “ordnung”. Everything is somehow “elegant - gingerbread”, a very pleasant atmosphere.

There is an old well on the square with water flowing from the tap. We don’t know if it’s safe to drink, but it can be refreshing on a hot summer day))

In the center of the square rises Town Hall. She's on the left in the photo. The building was built in 1396. For many centuries, the Town Hall was a place for trade. Here were the shops of merchants, shoemakers, clothiers, and bakers. It is now a city administrative building.

Above the main entrance to the Town Hall there are ancient sundial and coat of arms of the city of Pirna with red lions and golden pears on a tree.

On the other side of the Town Hall, a beautiful clock with a golden-black dial is clearly visible. They also have a lunar calendar and the phases of the moon are depicted. Under the clock is the coat of arms of the city of Pirna from 1549, and below is the old Saxon coat of arms from 1555. They are both made of the city's emblematic stone, sandstone.

White building Canalettohaus with a pointed Gothic roof and windows, it was built on the square in 1520. The house is named after the medieval Venetian landscape painter, court artist of the Saxon Elector Frederick Augustus III Bernardo Bellotto, known as Canaletto. He painted city landscapes. He liked Pirna so much that the artist dedicated 11 paintings to her in 1753-55. Some of these works are presented in the Dresden Gallery.

This picturesque house on Marktplatz now houses an exhibition of copies of Canaletto’s paintings and a tourist center. In it we took a free map of the city, according to which we built a further walking route around Pirna.

There is a very tragic and terrible moment in the history of Pirna. It is connected to the castle, which rises on a hill above the Old Town. It is clearly visible from many streets and from the central square. In the photo - high on the right behind the white Canaletto house. We don’t plan to go up to it, but we will tell about its tragedy.

This is Sonnentscheit Castle, its name in German Sonnenstein, literally translated as “sun stone”. The castle was built on the mountain in the 13th century. From 1811 to 1942 it housed a psychiatric hospital.

During the Second World War, Sonnenstein Castle became a testing ground where methods of mass extermination of people were developed. It all started in 1934 after the National Socialists, led by Hitler, came to power. At that time, the ideas of “racial purity” were embodied in the country. How unfit people were sterilized or killed, people suffering from hereditary, mental, serious illnesses, and disabled people. Officially, the process was called “euthanasia” or “death for good.” This was done in several treatment centers and psychiatric hospitals in Germany. Among them was Sonnenstein. The methods were different: patients were starved, given drugs in large doses, and lethal injections were given.

The Sonnenstein psychiatric hospital was one of the first to launch the “T-4 death program” and began mass extermination of sick people in gas chambers. The crematorium ovens were also built here. In two years, from 1940 to 1942, almost 15 thousand people were killed here, more than 1000 of them prisoners of war. After such “tests,” gas chambers for “racial cleansing” were installed in Auschwitz and other concentration camps. In 1947, the chief physician and orderlies of the Sonnenstein Hospital were sentenced to death.

Since 1970, a rehabilitation center for the disabled has been operating in the castle. And since 2012, after reconstruction, individual halls and the garden of Sonnenstein Castle are open to visitors. In the photo, on the horizon at the end of the street you can see a castle on a hill.

From Markplatz we headed towards the main St. Mary's City Church This is a large, beautiful Lutheran church, built in 1546. Its 60-meter Gothic tower is visible from afar.

Inside the church there are unique sights from the 16th century: the original 10-meter stone altar, a stone baptismal font with 26 miniature sculptures of children. They are created (like the entire temple) from local sandstone. Also in the Church of St. Mary are paintings from 1544-1546 with scenes from the Bible and an ancient organ. The church hosts classical music concerts.

It is clear that the town is a resort - it wakes up late. We were unable to get into St. Mary's Cathedral. It turned out that it opens only at 11-00. The morning resort of Pirna, along with shops and cafes, is just waking up (and this is at 10! in the morning).

The main entrance to the city's St. Mary's Church.

A walk along Pirna in the morning is very pleasant. Tourists are just waking up and you can enjoy the almost deserted streets and squares of the city. There are many old houses around. Each of them has its own history and keeps its secrets.

The old building in the photo on the right is now a restaurant, and in the Middle Ages, from 1578, there was a pharmacy “Golden Lion”.

Above the entrance to the house there is a figure of a golden lion and a memorial plaque. It is dedicated to the hero of Pirna - the city pharmacist Theophilus Jacobaer. It says: “T.H. lived here.” Jakobaer – the savior of our city on September 25, 1659.” During the 30 Years' War, Swedish troops captured Pirna - they robbed, destroyed, and abused the inhabitants. They planned to burn the city. The pharmacist, having learned about this, went to Dresden and through the court appealed to the Saxon princess Magdalena, a friend of the Queen of Sweden, with a request to cancel the decision to destroy the city. Pirna was saved, and Theophilus Jacobaer became a hero and received privileges in the pharmaceutical and brewing business as a reward.

The city library of Pirna is housed in an old house from the 17th century. Above the entrance is a portal with a lion's head from 1770, carved from Saxon sandstone.

You can see exquisite old balconies on many buildings in Pirna. They have been preserved since the 16th and 17th centuries.

And in this house, on the way to the Marienbad resort, the famous German poet Goethe stayed in April 1813. In 1925, the leader of the German communists, Ernst Thälmann, gave a speech.

This original monument was recently installed in Pirna. It is dedicated to the most outstanding citizens of the city in its entire history: the burgomaster, the first bishop, the trumpeter, merchants, ordinary people who did their work every day.

The interesting City Museum of Pirna is housed in the ancient building of the Dominican monastery, founded here in 1300 (address: Klosterhof 2/3).

The Dominican monastery and church of St. Henry were restored and became operational for parishioners in the 1990s.

The tall stele was erected in Pirna by order of Elector Augustus the Strong in 1722. It bears the coat of arms of the royal family. By the way, she is depicted in Canaletto’s paintings. On this pillar are engraved the ancient names of various German cities and the distance to them from Pirna in hours. 1 hour is equal to approximately 4.5 km. For example, the German town of Annaburg is 25 hours, or almost 112 km. The distance to Meisen, where we came from today, is 17 hours or 76 km. An interesting system for measuring distances))) Everything is logical, the most practical information at that time about the amount of travel time. Why these kilometers in the 17th century))

The Germans care about the environment; electric bicycles have been added to electric vehicles. Here is a free charger for such bikes.

Getting to know the cozy resort town of Pirna left a warm impression. And we are heading to the natural attractions of Saxony. We crossed the bridge. Along the way, we look at the modern part of Pirna, already on the other side of the Elbe.

Saxon Switzerland. Bastei Bridge.

Saxon Switzerland is a national park with a stunningly picturesque mountain landscape 30 km southeast of Dresden. It occupies an area of ​​9.5 thousand hectares on the border of Germany and the Czech Republic. Its neighbor is the Czech Switzerland National Park. Both parks are part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, which are part of the Eastern Ore Mountains.

Where does this name come from and what does “Switzerland” have to do with it? Until the 18th century, this area was called the “Meissen Plateau”. Swiss artists Anton Graf and Adrian Tsing, who taught at the Dresden Academy of Arts, chose these places. The mountainous area above the Elbe with gorges, waterfalls and ancient castles reminded them of their native Switzerland and the Jura mountain range. Hence the name “Saxon Switzerland”.

We came here for such beauty)))

In the 1800s, Swiss artists traveled here themselves and invited other landscape painters for inspiration and beautiful views. Masters of brushwork and photography still travel to Saxon Switzerland today. Throughout the park, through all the main natural and architectural attractions, one of the most beautiful tourist routes in modern Germany, Malerweg, which means “Artists' Trail,” stretches for 112 km. It offers the most breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. Interestingly, in 2016 it was included in the top three most popular routes in the world.

In the 18th century, following the artists, tourists and climbers flocked here. Shops, a restaurant, and a hotel were opened for them. In 1824, the famous Bastei Bridge was built between the rocks. Today it is one of the most popular attractions in Saxony.

The most convenient way to get to the Bastei Bridge is by car, you can also do this by S-Bann train to Raten or Wehlen, by bus from Pirna (No. 237, 238) and Bad Schandau (No. 253), or in the summer by boat from Dresden. If you are traveling by car, it is easier and faster to get to the Saxon Switzerland park through the town of Lohmen. That's what we did.

Following the signs, we drove into the parking lot near the main entrance to the park. Parking costs 3 euros. Entrance to the Saxon Switzerland park is free. The fee is charged only for walking through the remains of the 13th century Neurathen fortress. These are bridges between the mountains beyond the Bastei Bridge. The price for 4 of us is 12 euros.

Helpful advice: For a walk in Saxon or Czech Switzerland, comfortable clothing, covered shoes, water are required, and in summer a hat is advisable. Even though it was hot, we all changed into sports sneakers. There are many rocky trails in the parks.

Next to the parking lot is the entrance to the Saxon Switzerland National Park. There are information stands with maps and information about the park in different languages.

We turned off the main road onto a side path. Such a breathtaking panorama opened up. Mountains of such an elongated shape with a flat top and steep edges are called table mountains. One hundred million years ago, during the Mesozoic era, there was an ancient ocean in this place. The sand settled to the bottom hundreds of meters and in several layers. When the ocean waters left, volcanoes split the sandy bottom into many parts. The formation of the unique landscape was completed by water and wind.

The main path led us to the hotel, souvenir shops and restaurants. In 1812, the first restaurant was built near the Bastei Bridge, and a little later - the Berghotel Bastei. This hotel has a rich history and an excellent reputation. Today the Berghotel Bastei is the winner of numerous awards. It is considered one of the best in Saxony.

There is even a service for dogs)))

Behind the restaurant and hotel there are several rocky trails with many steps, all equipped with handrails. Even though you walk between the peaks of the mountains, you feel safe (this is information for those who are afraid of heights))). And if you look down and around, the unreal beauty will take your breath away.

First of all, we went to the observation deck with stunning “postcard” views. It is located on a high cliff that rises 194 m above the Elbe. This is what we dreamed of seeing when we were planning our trip!

The people on the site are like sardines in a barrel. We made our way to the railing. A “dream photo” against the background and alone is a rare success here. And this is on a weekday. Where would we be without the “pink blouse” in the background))).

In the distance is Mount Lilienstein, the largest table mountain in Saxon Switzerland. To the right of it, on a smaller mountain, rises the Königstein Fortress, a powerful fortification structure of the 12th century. At various times it served as a defensive fortress, a monastery, a prison, a prisoner of war camp and a storage place for paintings at the Dresden Gallery during the Second World War. In Konigstatt, a prisoner of the fortress, the alchemist Johann Betherr, imprisoned there on the orders of Elector Augustus the Strong, invented the first European porcelain in 1709. This began the production of the now famous Königstein Fortress, a popular tourist attraction in Saxony.

The picturesque bend of the Elbe. Below you can see the ferry crossing and two shores of the city - the resort of Rathen. This small ancient town is a climatic resort. There is the cleanest air, a calm atmosphere, the unique nature of Saxon Switzerland with mountains, waterfalls, Lake Amselsee, a rhododentron park, nearby the ancient fortresses of Königstein, Stolpen and Lohmen, waterfalls, the Bastei Bridge, the Miniature Railway attraction, the summer Rathen theater among the rocks.

The ferry in Rathen is a unique, environmentally friendly form of transport that still operates using technology invented by the Dutch back in the 17th century. It moves without a motor and without polluting exhaust gases. This is a cable ferry. It is held in place by a long cable that stretches several hundred meters upstream along the river and is anchored near the shore.

The ferry runs regularly from one side of Rathen to the other. This is convenient for independent travelers who come here by train. by boat from Dresden or stop at hotels in Rathen. To get from Rathen to the Bastei Bridge, you need to cross the Elbe by ferry. A ferry ticket costs 1 euro (children: 0.50 euros) one way, round trip costs 1.80 euros (children: 0.80 euros). Further along the famous “Artists' Trail” you need to climb to the Bastei Bridge. The climb up the steep path with many steps can take 30-60 minutes, depending on your fitness.

And we continue our walk along the paths and steps of the park. Another bridge and a wonderful panorama of Saxon Switzerland.

Does the color of these mountains remind you of anything? The famous noble shade of palaces and churches! They were built from Saxon sandstone, which was quarried in the area. Stone mining proceeded at such a pace that the existence of Bastai and the surrounding area was threatened. In the 18th century, people stood up to protect the unique mountains. Nature reserves were gradually created, and after the fall of the Berlin Wall and the unification of Germany, this territory was united into the huge Saxon Switzerland National Park, and in the neighboring state - the Czech Switzerland National Park. Now the original natural landscape is protected by the state, and sandstone mining is regulated by law.

The famous Bastei Bridge rises 40 meters above the gorge. Its 7 arches fit organically into the mountain landscape. The length of the bridge is 76.5 m - such a long observation deck with magnificent views of the surrounding area! The first wooden bridge was built on this site in 1924. Over time, it became dilapidated and it became dangerous to walk on the planks. Within two years in 1854, a new stone bridge was built from local sandstone.

The Bastei Bridge is one of the most visited attractions in Saxony. There are always a lot of tourists here.

The original round observation deck on the bridge. Miraculously we took pictures without tourists in the background))

There are memorial plaques on the rocks.

On the other side of the Bastei Bridge, behind a wooden palisade, are the remains of the 13th century Czech castle Neurathen. (Entrance here is paid - 3 euros). He guarded the borders of the Czech Republic and trade routes on the Elbe. It was one of the largest impregnable fortresses of that time. It occupied an area 700 m long and 100 m wide. Fortifications were built on the flat tops of rocks connected by log bridges. There was also a drawbridge here. The castle was destroyed by fire in 1469. In 1485 it passed from the Czech Republic into the possession of the Saxon Margraviate of Meissen. Now practically nothing has survived from it: the remains of walls, an ancient water storage facility, a catapult and large stone cannonballs that were once fired at enemies from the heights of the fortress.

The paths of the castle of the Neurathen fortress (pictured on the right) offer amazing views of the surrounding area.

Beautiful pictures of the nature of Saxon Switzerland and from the Bastei Bridge.

Saxon Switzerland is very popular among climbers. Can you see the climber?

And he is))

Although there are a lot of tourists here, so sometimes there was a traffic jam on the paths, the park is definitely worth a visit. Saxon Switzerland is very cozy, beautiful and unusual.

We are moving towards the next destination of today's route - Czech Switzerland. The road passes through the resort town of Bad Schandau. It is known for its excellent rehabilitation and health resorts, Wellness centers, healing thermal baths, good resort hotels. Interestingly, Bad Schandau is the smallest city in the world with a tram. Also in Bad Schandau (Dresdner Str. 2 B) there is an information center for the Saxon Switzerland National Park. This is an interactive exhibition that tells about the flora and fauna, history and modernity of the park.

We enter the city of Bad Schandau.

The road runs along the Elbe.

We stopped at a local supermarket and bought German beer and goodies at good prices. For example, a 0.5 liter bottle of the famous Saxon beer Radeberg costs about 0.50 cents. For comparison, a bottle of Coca-Cola is twice as expensive))

This is the view of the Elbe from the supermarket parking lot.

And here we are again in the Czech Republic. Former checkpoint on the border between Germany and the Czech Republic. Now the Elbe is changing its name - it sounds in Czech “Labe”))) The road here is very picturesque: on one side there are the waters of the Labe River, and on the other the cliffs of the Elbe Canyon rise.

Czech Switzerland, or lost in the Lost World.

On the border with Germany lies an equally beautiful “neighbor” of Saxon Switzerland – the Czech Switzerland National Park. This is part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains in the Czech Republic. Stunning nature, a unique mountain landscape, deep gorges, caves, clean air, silence, many hiking and cycling routes, ancient castles and authentic houses, fabulous sculptures and local legends - this is what Czech Switzerland is rich in.

We arrived at Hřensko (Grensko, Czech Republic). It is called the gateway to the Bohemian Switzerland National Park. The town is located 55 km from Dresden, 130 km from Prague, 40 km from the Bastei Bridge in Saxon Switzerland and only 10 km from the town of Decin, where we plan to stay overnight.

What is unique about Grzhensko: This is the lowest area in the Czech Republic. The city is located only 115 m above sea level, although thanks to the surrounding cliffs, it does not feel that way. The nature and climate around Hřensko are also unusual – mountain plants thrive in the lowlands. What adds to the exoticism is that there are more Chinese in this town than local residents. What are the Chinese doing here? And they sell souvenirs and Chinese clothes.

Grzensko consists of practically one street along the small river Kamenice, which flows into the Labe.

The architecture of the ancient houses of Grzhensko is very colorful. Next to the luxurious palaces and hotels of the 19th century, here under the overhanging rocks there are neat older rural houses.

The town was founded here in the 15th century. A large Czech trade route ran along the Elbe. At first, on the site of Grzhensko there was a tavern, where merchants and tree raftsmen came to rest and refresh themselves. Later, workers built huts near the storage facilities for grain and wood, salt and glass. Since the 17th century, Grzensko became a large trading town. In these places they harvested and processed wood, ground grain in three large mills, mined sandstone, traded mushrooms, salt, charcoal, and even smuggled goods. In the summer of 1838, the first steamships began to ply along the Elbe.

On the left in the photo are the ancient buildings of Hřnesko and the Church of St. John of Nepomuk, erected in 1787.

Only in the 19th century did the enterprising owner of the lordship, Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen, realize how attractive his land was for tourists. He began to actively develop the tourist destination. In the 1830s, hotels and inns were built in Grzhensk. In 1862, a company appeared in the city that sold photographs and postcards with the sights of Hřensko.

In 1879, the Mountain Community of Bohemian Switzerland was created. Its members built and equipped hiking trails and observation platforms with railings, steps, benches, bridges, also published popular magazines, and held meetings. In 1898, two gorges with boat crossings opened to visitors. During World War II, a branch of the Hitlerite aircraft factory operated in the adits of Grzhensk. The city and park of Bohemian Switzerland were revived for tourists after 1964, when the trails and gorges were reopened after reconstruction.

One of the famous attractions of the park is Pravcicka Gate, or Pravcicka Braná, in Czech – Pravčická brána. This is a huge sandstone arch, which was formed millions of years ago by natural “sculptors” - volcanoes, water, wind. Its maximum height is 21 m. An 8-meter arch bridge connects two sand mountains. The trail to Pravčicka Brana has been open to tourists since the 1830s. Interestingly, the famous storyteller Hans Christian Andersen climbed here.

Nearby is the castle “Falcon's Nest”, 1881. The former summer residence of Prince Edmund Clary-Aldringen, the founder of the tourist direction in the development of Czech Switzerland. The castle was erected within a year by Italian craftsmen on the site of a wooden pub. Now here on the second floor is the Museum of the National Park, and on the first floor there is a restaurant in which the original wall paintings have been preserved. The Pravčicka brane offers a wonderful view of the surrounding area.

Many sources claim that this is the largest “natural bridge” in Europe and the world, but we have seen more on. On about. Gozo has the Azure Window. The stone arch rises 28 meters above the sea. The numbers sound dry, but nothing can compare the delight and surprise when you see such an incredibly powerful and majestic natural structure nearby.

Malta, o. Gozo, Azure Window

Today we had already admired the mountain landscape from the Bastei Bridge in Saxon Switzerland, so for a change we decided to take a walk in the remaining half day along the bottom of the gorge Edmund And go boating on the Kamenica River.

Practical information about Czech Switzerland:

Required: comfortable clothes, closed sports shoes, a hat in summer, and bring water with you.

Entrance to the Bohemian Switzerland Park is free. For boats and Brana, payment is accepted in crowns and euros.

• Pravčická brána

Price walks along the paths and observation platforms of Pravcicka Brana - 75 CZK (3 euros) - adult, 25 CZK (1 EUR) - child ticket.

• Edmund's Gorge

Working hours: From April to September the boats operate from 9-00 to 18-00, in October - from 9-00 to 17-00 every day. The last boat in the direction of Grzhensko leaves at 18-00, and in the direction of Mezna - at 17-30. (in October, accordingly, an hour earlier)

Riding cost on the boat: 80 CZK (3 EUR) – adult, 40 CZK (1.5 EUR) – child ticket.

• Wild Gorge

Working hours: From April to September from 9-00 to 17-00, in October from 9-00 to 16-00 daily. The last boat in the direction of Grzhensko leaves at 17-00, and in the direction of Mezna Luka - at 16-30. (in October, accordingly, an hour earlier)

Boat ride price: 60 CZK (2.5 EUR) – adult, 30 CZK (1 EUR) – child ticket.

How to get to Hrzensko by public transport: Regular buses go here almost every hour from Decin (the journey takes 15-20 minutes) and Bad Schandau. They can also take you deeper into the park, to the villages of Mezhna or Mezhni Luka, from which hiking routes around the park begin. You can also travel by boat from Decin, from the German cities of Bad Schandau, Dresden and Meissen. And these cities can be easily reached by train.

Buses run through the park, stop locations are marked on the map with a BUS sign.

Parking: There are 4 municipal parking lots and several private ones in Hřensko. All of them are shown on the map. Parking cost: 30 CZK (1 EUR) per hour, 120 CZK (4 EUR) per day.

Hotels in Czech Switzerland: There are hotels and guesthouses in Grzhensko and the surrounding villages of the park. At the same time, you will stay in the very heart of Czech Switzerland and will be able to enjoy nature, tranquility, and engage in active hiking and cycling tourism. You can book your accommodation using this link:

See also special offers with discounts for hotels in Czech Switzerland.

Here is the most difficult moment for those who are traveling to Czech Switzerland for the first time. And if everything is certain with Pravcicka Brana (except for the travel time), then with the gorges we “got it”. We will show you all the optimal walking routes on the map. In the meantime, let's talk about our adventures in Czech Switzerland. We named them “Lost in the Lost World.”

We parked the car in the first parking lot. A pleasant woman, the ticket taker, who understood Ukrainian perfectly, gave us a map of Czech Switzerland. We warned that we were parking for 2 hours. (Judging by the map... Oh! Optimists.!))) She smiled and said that this was not enough, but you can pay extra for parking later.

Here is the map of Czech Switzerland that we received. It is in German and Czech.

When we were planning a route through Czech Switzerland, we read reviews from other travelers. Many walked in a large circle: from point 1 - through all the points - to point 6. Everyone wrote that the walk takes a lot of time, but no one said anything specifically, it looked something like this: “I walked, I looked.” The only thing they wrote was that everything was done in a day. But since we arrived after lunch and were in the mountains of Saxon Switzerland, we decided not to inspect point 2 (Bram). We wanted to walk through the city of Gzhensko from point 6 (parking) and take a boat ride in the Edmund Gorge between points 5 and 4. And then return along the same route or walk to the stop in the village. Mezhnaya and come to the parking lot by bus.

“Pitfalls” of thisarts .

1. It does not mark where the ascent or descent is, which is inconvenient when planning a route.
2. Distances in km are shown on roads only, and the length of ALL walking routes is measured in MINUTES, not meters or kilometers. This is where the “trick” comes in.

Practice has shown that walking along the route actually takes at least two to three times longer than what is written on the map. Also keep in mind that on the way you will spend a little time taking photos - pauses, because there is amazing beauty all around.

3. How does a person feel when expectations are disappointed? Unpleasant feelings of confusion, fatigue from waiting and irritation from the fact that in reality everything is not so. These are our feelings during the second half of our route, when the information on the map did not coincide with reality at all. That's why we were “Lost in the Lost World.”

And now everything is in order. Our example of which route not to take. “Don’t go there, don’t go there!”)))

Grzensko is an interesting town. We walked along its only street with pleasure, looking at the houses and funny garden figurines that were sold along the road.

We're excited. Behind the bridge and the Pension Soutěsky hotel (on the right in the photo) a beautiful trail to the gorge begins. The car could have been parked here, but this way we got a better look at Hřensko.

At the beginning of the trail there is an information stand with a map, distances, boat operating schedules and their last departure, so that the tourist does not walk in vain. Everything is written optimistically))) Here you can see that the first yellow section, 1 km long, takes 20 minutes. In city mode we walk faster. But something went wrong here. We walked it to the gorge and the boats in 50 minutes (this is true from the parking lot, 1 km from it).

We crossed the bridge over the Kamenice River.

After it the forest path begins. It is equipped with railings, steps, benches.

Interestingly, until the 19th century, the mountainous area with gorges along the Kamenitsa River was called End of the world. When the trails ended, local residents were afraid to go further into the dense forest, full of secrets and legends. Why not the fabulous Lost World?!

It's incredibly beautiful all around.

Here you want to sit down and just enjoy the tranquility, the murmur of water, the singing of birds, the greenery of the forest in the sun’s rays.

But the forest path along the stone gorge along the river does not end.

Well, finally we can see the landing site for the boat. Further on the trail is interrupted and you can only move along the route by water.

The history of these boats and the Kamenitsa River gorge began with a dispute. In 1877, five daredevils, having had a good drink in the Grzhensky tavern, made a bet that they would float down the stormy river on rafts. The three rafts confidently covered the distance. After this, the owner of local lands, Prince Edmund, hired Italian workers and built paths, bridges, tunnels, and dams. In 1890, boating along the first gorge, 500 m long, opened for tourists. At first it was Quiet, now it was named Edmund Gorge in honor of the prince. A few years later, a second gorge was created, the Wild Gorge, the length of the route along it is 250 m. Then tourists were taken on boats by ferrymen in beautiful sailor uniforms.

Today we will sail along the first long Edmund's Gorge. We bought tickets at the box office. Tickets for our family cost 9 euros. The walk takes only 20 minutes.

We ask the cashier what we should do, how far and how long after the boat to point 4 - p. Mezhna? He says no, it’s close there. Indeed, on the map there is a zigzag drawn on the green left route and it says 15 minutes. We had two options: 1. Go back by boat, again pay 9 euros and again walk 50 minutes to the parking lot. Or 2. -see more of Czech Switzerland. We chose the second option: after the boat, walk 15 minutes and 500 m (according to the map) to the village of Mezhna, take the bus there and return to the parking lot. (You could also go further along the yellow route, take a boat along the Wild Gorge and go to the village of Mezhni Luka and the bus, but it would be much longer).

The boat ride was very nice and soulful. The boatman told funny and cheerful stories about the gorge and mysterious legends in three languages ​​(English, Czech, Russian).

Local fairy-tale residents looked at us from the shores. Good and not so good))

And where there were no sculptures, everyone unanimously turned on their imagination. After all, the outlines of rocks and stones are very similar to fairy-tale characters.

Do you see the snake?

The boatman pulled the rope and a waterfall poured down from the walls of the gorge. I pulled it a second time - there was no waterfall.

The walk turned out to be interesting. We sailed to the boat station. There is a restaurant on the pier. Here you can have a snack and relax.

Prices in Czech crowns.

On the way we washed ourselves and cooled off in the river.

The path leads through the tunnels.

These tunnels were cut into the rock by workers specially invited from Italy. They were called Barabbas. They were famous mining masters in the Alps. A special technology was used in the formation of the tunnels - in winter the rocks were heated, then cooled sharply with water. So the stone walls cracked and could be processed.

This place reminded me of another stone gorge in Austria - Liechtenstein. Read about it here:

It turned out that a rise was awaiting us, remember the zigzag on the map? It was not an easy climb, but a very steep and long one. It felt like we had climbed a skyscraper. And we walked serpentinely along such stairs.

Well, we think, we’ll be patient, we’ll get on the bus soon. But when the stairs ended, the ascent continued along forest paths. 15 minutes have long passed, but the end of the edge is not in sight)) We looked around, there below was the gorge of the Kamenitsa River.

And when we finally reached the village of Mezhna, to the restaurant, our strength completely left us. The time from the boat station to this finish took again 50 minutes. It took 30 difficult and long-feeling minutes to get up, but 15 were announced.

Judging by the map, there should be a bus stop here. But the restaurant waiter and several people in it knew nothing about this. Strange! We finally found a stop 100 meters away. We sat, rested, and waited. We saw the schedule and realized that buses run here very rarely and the wait for the next one is 3 hours. We decided to go to the village of Mezhni Luka - it’s about 2 km away. The asphalt road went through a flat, beautiful area.

When we arrived at another stop in the village. Mezhni Luka is next to the parking lot, we read the schedule and realized that there will be no more buses today))) And it’s still 6 km to get to Grzhensko. There was no strength to walk anymore, everyone was tired. We thought about using “Plan B”: I need to hitchhike to the parking lot and return to get mine in our car. Let's go to the main road. And then in front of the Mezní Louka hotel there was another stop, and there were many tourists waiting for the bus. Hooray! We are saved! While waiting for the bus, the children had fun

We took the bus to our car. Our walk through Czech Switzerland took approximately 3.5 hours. Adventures we will never forget! Now we remember with laughter))) But only thanks to such a difficult walk, we will be able to help other travelers plan a route through the park. Organized tourists are not brought here, because it is impossible to gather them later))) After all, here it is easy to become “Lost in the Lost World”))). Of course, if you don’t know how to optimally and correctly build a route.

Routes in Czech Switzerland.

There are a lot of walking and cycling routes in the park. It's difficult to get lost - there are many signs everywhere. Buses run along the main roads marked in white on the map. Stops - icon BUS on the plan. You can combine a walking route with a bus ride. We will show on the map routes to the main attractions of Czech Switzerland.

Route to Pravčicka Brana.

This route is for those who want to enjoy the mountain scenery of Czech Switzerland. On the map - point 2 And brown route. At the turn from the main road there is a sign to Pravčická brána. Nearby there is paid parking and the “Three Sources” stop. This is the best place to start your climb. The length of the route from the turn to Bran is 3 km, on the map the duration is 45 minutes. In fact, expect the hike to take an average of 1 hour and 20 minutes, with photo breaks along the way. The entire route along with a walk along Pravčicka Brana and returning the same way It may take approximately 3.5 – 4 hours. (If you are coming from Grzensko – paragraph 1 or paragraph 6– add distance and time to the calculation.)

From Pravčicka Brana there is a trail to the village of Mezhni Luka, point 3. Length – 7 km, travel time about 2.5 – 3 hours. It will be overcome by physically prepared travelers.

Route to the Gorges.

It is suitable for those who want to see the “Lost World” of the Kamenitsa River and go boating in the gorges. But you will also have to walk a lot)) We will divide it into three options: 1. Easy option Edmund’s Gorge (+ optional Wild Gorge), 2. Edmund’s Gorge, 3. Wild Gorge + Edmund’s Gorge.

Option 1 - An easy and simple route through the gorges with boating.

A) The path that we took at the beginning, but with the return of the same road back. Will go for a walk average 2.5 hours excluding time spent relaxing in a restaurant. Yellow route on the map: from Grzhensk from points 6, 1 and 5on the map you follow the forest path to the boat station in Edmund's Gorge point 4-B. Travel time is approximately 50 minutes. You sail by boat for 20 minutes one way, relax in a restaurant (optional), and return by boat - another 20 minutes. Walk back to Grzhensko - about 50 minutes.

B) You can complement your walk with a boat ride in the second – Wild Gorge point 4-A.In this case, expect that the entire walk through the two gorges will take about 4 hours, excluding rest in the restaurant. From the Edmund's Gulch station to the Wild Gulch boats, it's a 30-minute walk there and 30 minutes back. The boat ride takes 15 minutes there and 15 minutes back.

*** When planning your route, carefully read the boat operating schedule and find out the last time of boat departures in the direction of Hřensko.

Option 2 – Edmund's Gulch route.

This short route is our journey in reverse)). On the map - white +yellow route: point 3 With. Mezhni Luka – point 4 With. Mezhni – paragraph 4 – B point 5 about 3 o'clock.

By bus you get to the village. Mezhni Luka – point 3(and if you’re lucky with a bus, then to the village of Mezhni point 4). If you have a car, it is better to park it in the Hřensko parking lots ( paragraph 1 And paragraph 6) and before the start of the route in the village. Take a bus to Mezhni Luka. From the village Mezhni Luka ( point 3) walk 2 km to the village. Mezhni ( point 4). There will be an easy climb along a paved road. Travel time is about 40 minutes. Further behind the restaurant, follow the signs to “Soutěska” (which means “gorges”) and go down about 20 minutes along the path to paragraph 4-B.

Behind the bridge over the river there is a fork with signs to two gorges. You turn right to Edmundova soutěska. It takes about 15 minutes to walk to the boat station and restaurant. Relax and buy tickets. The boat floats along Edmund's Gorge for 20 minutes.

***

point 5, 1, 6

Option 3 – Route Wild Gorge + Edmund's Gorge.

A longer route, compared to the first option, includes boating through two picturesque gorges of Czech Switzerland. On the map - blue +yellow route: point 3 With. Mezhni Luka – point 4-A Wild gorge and boat station – paragraph 4 – B Edmund's Gulch and boat station – point 5 Grzhensko. Total time for the route – about 4 o'clock.

From the village Mezhni Luka ( point 3) follow the signs to Divoká soutěska. The descent along the road will take approximately 30 minutes. Then turn right onto the path along the river to the Wild Gorge. Follow the signs for another 30 minutes. Buy tickets at the boat station. The boat travels along the Wild Gorge for 15 minutes.

*** Be sure to keep in mind that in summer the last boat in the direction to Grzhensko leaves from here at 17-00, in October - at 16-30, in October an hour earlier. If you don't have time, you'll have to climb back to the village. Mezhni Luka, because you can only move further along the gorge by boat, there is no path along the shore!!!

It's about a 30-minute walk to the next boat station in Edmund's Gulch and a restaurant. Buy tickets and relax. The boat floats along Edmund's Gorge for 20 minutes.

*** Be sure to keep in mind that in summer the last boat in the direction to Grzhensko leaves from here at 18-00, in October - at 17-00. If you don't have time, you'll have to climb back to the village. Mezhni, because you can only move further along the gorge by boat, there is no path along the shore!!!

After the boat, you head along a forest path to Grzhensko ( point 5, 1, 6). Travel time with photo breaks is about 50 minutes.

Tourists in great!!! physical fitness is really possible to pass the entire route in Czech Switzerland from paragraph 1 And to point 5 in a day, visiting Pravcicka Bran and the gorges. But it’s better to split the trip into 2 days))

Decin. Czech Republic.

We stopped in the ancient Czech town of Děčín. It is only 15 km from Hřensko and Czech Switzerland. The city was founded in 993 by the Přemyslid princes, the first kings of the Czech Republic. We wrote about them in this article about Prague:

By the way, information for tourists without a car, the Prague-Dresden railway line passes through Decin. And from here it is convenient to get to Czech Switzerland by bus or boat.

Decin was examined from the car window. A very nice old town.

We are approaching the central Old Town Square.

And this Decin Castle, built in the 13th century over the Labe River. This is the main attraction of the town. Since the 19th century, the castle has been the cultural center of the region. It was owned by representatives of the influential Thun family. Many famous writers, artists, and composers were received here, among them Walter Scott and Frederic Chopin, who wrote the Decin Waltz. Guests were impressed by the huge orchid garden. It was considered one of the largest in Europe. Now in the alleys of the castle you can see a beautiful rose garden - Decin Rose Garden.

We booked these apartments near Decin Castle - Czech Switzerland Castle Apartments.

Studio apartment in an old house on the 3rd floor, with a kitchen and free parking in the yard. An elevator takes you to the floor. The apartment we booked has a balcony. In the photo - on the right. There are light green chairs on it.

We were met by the owner, a pleasant, cheerful guy, David, who showed us the accommodation and told us about the most interesting sights of the city and the surrounding area. I really liked the apartment. Everything is clean and tidy, original interior.

On the ground floor there is a cozy cafe with sweets and drinks. Children splash happily in the fountain. Across the road is a small lake. View from our balcony.

We view Decin Castle from the balcony of the apartment. I didn’t have the strength to visit it at all))) It’s a pity that we underestimated the tourist potential of Decin and stayed here for only one night. The city also has a zoo, a water park, ancient buildings, ancient bridges, and 15 km away is the largest mountain in Czech Switzerland - Decinsky Sneznik. In David's apartment there are many brochures describing the routes and attractions of Decin.

I only had enough strength to go to the supermarket to replenish food supplies for the next day and buy something for dinner and breakfast. But even on the way to the supermarket and back, we managed to walk around the lake.

On the opposite bank from the apartment we found the “Fabrika” restaurant, which David recommended.

But we have other plans for this family evening: Czech dumplings, cold German Radeberg beer and a gorgeous view from the balcony.

The next day we will travel to Budapest with a 3-4 hour stop in the capital of Slovakia, Bratislava.

The rocky areas around the town of Decin (80 km northwest of Prague) received the figurative name “Czech Switzerland” (Ceske Svycarsko, www.npcs.cz). These regions received their rather unusual name not from the country of Switzerland, but in honor of two Swiss artists - Adrian Zing and Anton Graff, who worked on the reconstruction of the Dresden Gallery and in their free time went plein air to small villages near the Saxon-Czech border. They liked these places so much that both masters decided not to return home under the pretext that they had already found their Switzerland.

This poetic name, however, poorly reflects the real landscapes of the region - the massifs of the Elbe Sandstone, Decin and Central Bohemian mountains are low here (the maximum point is Decinski Sneznik, 722 m) and are heavily destroyed, and the more well-preserved ancient volcanic massifs are cut by canyons and river valleys and crevices. But the general charm of these places more than compensates for some discrepancy in names, and the most beautiful territories became part of the national park of the same name.

Attractions

The decoration of these places is a geological phenomenon Panska Skala(Panska skala, Herrnhausfelsen) - a massive cliff made of polygonal columns of basalt. It was formed millions of years ago during the invasion of hot magma into the thickness of the earth's crust. In fact, these polygonal columns, somewhat reminiscent of organ pipes, are, so to speak, basalt crystals, exposed by erosion processes and human activity (the massif “appeared” during quarrying at the end of the 19th century). Unlike its famous counterpart in Northern Ireland, the 12-metre high Panska Skala is easily accessible and lies just 500 meters south of Route 13, near the village of Prachen (18 km east of Decin).

The second point of attraction in the region is the picturesque Kamenice gorge. From the village of Mezna (12 km northeast of Decin), a “green” hiking trail descends into the cool canyon of the Kamenice River, flowing from the east, from the slopes of the Lusatian Mountains, and breaking through the cliffs of the Cinsky Mountains in this area. . Having crossed the thirty-meter gorge on a wooden bridge (Mezni mustek), you can go down to the piers, from where mini-excursions on punts begin down the river to the Quiet (Ticha souteska) and Wild (Divoka souteska) gorges, to the picturesque village of Mezni Louka (Mezni Louka, it’s better to climb here on foot along the “blue” trail, although there is a river here too), the village of Hrensko (where the river flows into the Elbe) or climb 5 km up the river, to the village of Jetrichovice, where the canyon becomes shallow and turns into a picturesque valley, or another 8 kilometers south, to the picturesque town of Ceska Kamenice (Ceska Kamenice, Bohmisch Kamnitz, 18 km east of Decin on highway No. 13) with its beautiful pilgrimage church.

The massifs of the Elbe Sandstone, Decin and Central Bohemian Mountains are low here (the maximum point is Decinski Sneznik, 722 m) and heavily destroyed, while the more well-preserved ancient volcanic massifs are cut by canyons, river valleys and chasms. In total, 79 square meters are allocated for the protected area. km, however, in such a small territory at first glance, a lot of interesting things are concentrated - the geological phenomenon of Panska Skala (Panska skala, Herrnhausfelsen), made of polygonal columns of basalt, the picturesque gorges of Kamenice, Sucha Kamenice, Tichoe (Edmundovo) and Dikoe, a rock arched bridge " Pravcicka Gate" (Pravcicka Brana), colorful mountain settlements (about 36 towns and villages in total), 15 hiking and cycling trails with a total length of about 110 km, the castle-hotel "Falcon's Nest" (1881, now it houses a reserve museum and a restaurant ), castles in Decin (X-XVII centuries, one of the oldest in Europe) and Binovec, excellent viewing platforms of the Capital Mountain (Stolicna Hora), Snezicka (Snezicka vyhlidka) and Belveder, “Czech Fuji” - Mount Ruzovsky Vrch (619 m), as well as picturesque forests and many clean rivers.

How to get there

You can get to the national park through the towns of Decin, Hřensko, Krasna Lipa and Jetřichovice from Prague by train (Hlavniho Nadrazi station) or by bus to Decin (about an hour and a half), then transferring to local buses (from 30 minutes to an hour depending on the final destination). points). It is also easy to travel from Dresden via Sebnitz and Mikulasovice to Krasna Lipa.

The Czech Republic is not offended by mountains. The Czech mountains, of course, are not high, but picturesque. And one mountainous area even received the name “” ( České Švýcarsko). What a miracle, you say, the labels “Switzerland” and “Venice” are the most common. Just a city in the canals - right there is “Venice”. And if the area is hilly - “Switzerland”, of course.

As for Czech Switzerland, in this case the Swiss themselves likened this corner of the Ore Mountains to their Switzerland. Swiss artists arrived in Dresden to restore paintings in the Dresden Gallery and in the vicinity of the Elbe they discovered an extremely attractive place: sharp sandstone cliffs, deep canyons, hills covered with forest. “Well, like here in Switzerland,” said the artists. And so it happened.

On the Czech side, the Czech Switzerland National Park was formed. And on the other bank of the Elbe is “Saxon Switzerland”. We visited both there and there. In this article I will talk about our walk through Czech Switzerland, and in the next one about Saxon Switzerland.

We left Prague around 8 am and two hours later we were approaching the Czech-German border. The river (Laba in Czech), along which the border of the countries passes, looks very romantic in this place: neither narrow nor wide, it flows among wooded mountains, houses are visible here and there along its banks, but overall the place seems secluded and quiet .

Town of Grzensko

Our goal - town of Grzhensko, which stands at the confluence of the Kamenitsa River into the Laba. Hiking routes through the Bohemian Switzerland National Park begin from Hřensko.

Pier near Grzhensko

Along the edges of the gorge, like entrance towers, there are two hotels. The Labe Hotel looks especially impressive - it seems that it is resting on a rock.

The hotel opposite is more modest

We turn right and move along the Kamenitsa River.

The town of Grzensko begins with long shopping arcades. The Vietnamese trade here.

The rows end in front of the main city square, as miniature as the whole city, with a small church.

The city stretches along the river. Houses stand on both sides of the river, and behind them rise the mountain slopes.

There are many hotels and private guesthouses. There are cafes, shops, in short, the entire infrastructure of the resort town. The houses are nice. Let's say this one, overgrown with ivy.

And the most charming villa is hidden a little away from the road, behind a rocky outcrop.

The line of houses along Kamenica ends with the Praha Hotel, one of the best in the city. And the entire Hřensko from “Labe” to “Praha” can be walked in 15 minutes.

Then the paths diverge. There is a walking trail along the river (along which we returned to the city about three hours later). The road goes to the right to the village of Janow, to the left to Mezne Louka and further to Jetřichovice, an ancient Saxon village.

Hiking routes in Czech Switzerland

Most tourists (including us) go to the town of Mezne Louka, where hiking routes begin in the Czech Switzerland National Park in the Hřensko district.

Scheme of hiking routes Grzhensko

The most popular route leads to Pravcicka Braná, a unique natural arch bridge. From Mezni Louka to Pravcicka Bran it takes 70 minutes to walk along the trail (as indicated on the park map) and then another 45 minutes to get to Hrensko.

We are heading along a different route. First we walk 2 km along an asphalt road. The road goes among the fields.

In the distance, rocks can be seen above the treetops.

We reach the guesthouse “Na Vyhlidce”.

Behind the house there begins a path that leads to the Kamenitsa River.

The descent to the river is steep and winding, the path winds among rocks and trees.

The mountain serpentine ends with an exit to the bridge.

We have reached the bottom of the gorge. From the bridge the canyon looks spectacular: vertical rock walls stand opposite each other. How long did the water cut through the rocks to make its way!

After the bridge, the trail turns and goes along the shore along the rocks (and sometimes under overhanging rocks or in a broken tunnel).

In one place the gorge makes a sharp turn and widens. At the site of the expansion there is a house in which a small museum is located, dedicated to the nature of this region.

Rafting on the Kamenitsa River

And here is the pier. Along the walkways there are punts painted bright green. The boat is designed for 26 people.

We wait for those lagging behind

We load into the boat and set sail downstream.

This section of Kamenitsa is called.

The boat is controlled by a boatman with a pole. He stands at the stern, steers the boat and jokes around. And in one place he slowed down, pulled the taut cable with his hand, and a waterfall fell from the rocks above. Fortunately, not on us. The waterfall did not last long, I managed to photograph the last streams.

Here and there among the rocks there were funny wooden figures.

And around the next turn these rocky fingers appeared.

That's how we sailed and sailed along Edmund's Gorge. The place is very quiet, secluded, filled with mysterious, gloomy beauty. Everything is like something out of a fairy tale: silently flowing dark water, mossy stones in the riverbed, soaring gorge walls, knotty tree roots clinging to the rocks, dark green crowns reflected in the water.

The only time our privacy was violated was when a boat passed us, upstream. Yes, pushing a boat against the current with a pole is not an easy task.

Finally the pier appeared. We disembarked and continued along the path along the river.

I thought that our walk through the protected forest had come to an end, but the journey to Grzhensko took another 30-40 minutes. The gorge went on and on, we all stretched out along the path, there were few people, only closer to Grzhensko people began to meet.