the main general information Church in the village of kish. Orthodox architecture

Church in the village of kish. Orthodox architecture

About five years ago, I accidentally ended up in "Illusion" for a Turkish film, the name of which I do not remember now. What stuck in my memory most of all was the winter views of the provincial Turkish village where the action took place. The Middle East suddenly appeared before me not bright and serenely cheerful, but everyday, gloomy, chilled. There was some kind of revelation in this, as happens at a party, when everyone left, and the owner invited you to stay, and you no longer see the outer gloss of the holiday, but the inner way of the family, real life. Since then, I really wanted to see something like this with my own eyes.

The opportunity to make this little dream come true came as unexpectedly as the sale of Aeroflot tickets to Azerbaijan. Having left the coast of the Caspian Sea from dank and windy Baku inland, to Sheki, I decided to get to the mountain village of Kish, famous for its ancient Albanian church. And that's what came of it.

The search for a Russian-speaking aborigine in a sleepy Sunday Sheki led me to a short, dry aksakal, who stood in front of me and wrinkled his forehead tensely.
- How? Kish? I don't know this ...
“The Albanian church should be there,” I said.
- A-ah-ah! Kshshch! - the old man was delighted. - Kshshch! Kshshch - it's over there, you need a route.

Rattling with chains, a "route", but in fact an old GAZ bus, crawled out of Sheki along a snow-covered road and, groaning and sneezing, drove into the mountains. On the way, I saw a minibus lying in a ditch, convincingly refuting the tourist myth that the locals do not fly off the road in their cars under any circumstances - they are so clever. Even as they fly out. While I was in Azerbaijan, news about such flights on slippery and very dangerous mountain roads was constantly circulating on the local Internet.

The journey did not last long, just twenty minutes later the rattle car with a hysterical roar reached its final stop - a small platform on the side of a mountain. A couple of shops and a slippery path leading up. The rest was hidden in a light haze.

Climbing the path, around I saw exactly what I was going to see, and a joyful foreboding overwhelmed me.

Note the transparent canopies at the bottom of the image and under the southern wall of the temple, under which lie the bones of the ancestors of modern Azerbaijanis, Caucasian Albanians. This, in a way, is also a surprise: to unearth the bones of ancestors and leave them lying open to all winds - somehow it seemed to me not our way, not Caucasian.

Those who have read Leonid Solovyov's outstanding book "The Tale of Khoja Nasreddin" remember the characteristic character described in "The Enchanted Prince": the water distributor. The most honest and tidy peasant was appointed as the distributor of water from the village irrigation ditch, who made sure that everyone got a fair amount of precious moisture from the Bai spring. Now this process, thank God, is somewhat automated.

An interesting school poster: the poster, judging by the signature of Heydar Aliyev, is relatively new, but the school uniform is still of the Soviet model.

Climbing the path, around I saw exactly what I was going to see, and a joyful foreboding overwhelmed me.

Well, at the very stop, the last vivid impression of Kish is the men's salon. It is here that the beauties of Kish get their hairstyles according to the latest Kish fashion.

How to get there
From the northern part of Sheki to Kish there are minibuses no. 15 (he besh) and no. 23 (yirmi uch). Travel time is 15-20 minutes, the interval of movement is also 20-25 minutes. The fare is 20 gapiks (about 8 rubles). IN good weather the church is said to be visible from the road. IN bad weather you can navigate by the signs or ask the locals about the Albanian church - Alban Mabadi. Entrance to the church is 2 manats (about 75 rubles), shooting is the same.

ZhZhuzer writes: asketic-travel
About five years ago, I accidentally ended up in "Illusion" for a Turkish film, the name of which I do not remember now. What stuck in my memory most of all was the winter views of the provincial Turkish village where the action took place. The Middle East suddenly appeared before me not bright and serenely cheerful, but everyday, gloomy, chilled. There was some kind of revelation in this, as happens at a party, when everyone left, and the owner invited you to stay, and you no longer see the outer gloss of the holiday, but the inner way of the family, real life. Since then, I really wanted to see something like this with my own eyes.

Rattling with chains, a "route", but in fact an old GAZ bus, crawled out of the rolled snow road and, groaning and sneezing, drove into the mountains. On the way, I saw a minibus lying in a ditch, convincingly refuting the tourist myth that locals do not fly off the road in their cars under any circumstances - they are so clever. Even as they fly out. While I was in Azerbaijan, news about such flights on slippery and very dangerous mountain roads was constantly circulating on the local Internet.

Climbing the path, around I saw exactly what I was going to see, and a joyful foreboding overwhelmed me.

In the photo, it looks like smoke has been pulled from the right. It was before my very eyes that the fog did not descend on the village, as it happens in cities, but the fog crept over, as it happens in the mountains. Literally a minute passed, and the visibility dropped to hundreds of meters.

In such conditions, it was out of the question to see the church from afar, as travelers who have already visited Kish write. But the church was not my only goal, and I just delved into the maze of confused village streets and wandered through them until I came across Alik. Alik - local... About forty years old, thin, short, in sweatpants, a sheepskin coat and a cap. Of course, Alik's brother works in the market a stone's throw from my home in Moscow. First, Alik offered to come over for tea (I ask for tea), then he accompanied me to the church, because in my wanderings I went to the opposite end of the village.

Probably least of all you expected to meet Thor Heyerdahl here! Nevertheless, it is he, a great friend of the Azerbaijani people. Having studied the monuments of Caucasian Albania, Thor Heyerdahl put forward a bold theory that the Norwegians are descendants of the Caucasian Albanians. Azerbaijanis are very flattered by this theory, because it is nice to have such nice and prosperous people as the Norwegians as younger brothers.

Thor Heyerdahl visited Azerbaijan and in Kish itself and participated in supporting the restoration of the church, until the end of which he did not live quite a bit.

Here is the church itself. Her appearance has been the subject of fierce controversy after it underwent significant restoration several years ago. Many argue that due to the excessive diligence of the restorers, it was destroyed historical appearance churches and original decoration details. It is difficult for me to judge this, I can only give a link to a photo showing the appearance of the church before the restoration.

Previously, it seemed to me that such fun with bones is characteristic primarily of Catholics: the Parisian catacombs, the army of Palermo mummies led by the charming little Rosalia Lombardo, Czech and Polish ossuary ... However, a couple of years ago in Murom I had a chance to visit the ossuary of the Monastery of the Transfiguration of the Savior , and now, in the Caucasus, I encountered this strange decoration.

Cozyly curled up, the Caucasian Albanian smiles benevolently from a stone sack at the entrance to the church. All Azerbaijanis, with whom I had to communicate on this trip, informed me in detail that, firstly, all (all!) Caucasian Albanians were two meters and twenty centimeters tall, and secondly, they were blue-eyed blondes. Both of these remarks are quite remarkable.

As for growth, Caucasians like to decorate their stories with "absolutely accurate" numbers, like the growth of the Albanians, the speed that the son of a local oligarch developed in his BMW a month ago before being imprinted into a pillar, the amount that the oligarch dad paid for this BMW , the weight of the banner of the giant record-holder flag waving over Baku, etc. All these bright and stupid figures are carefully stored in the people's memory, passed from mouth to mouth with impeccable accuracy and are never questioned. Let it be obvious that the whole nation could not have a height of 2.20 m - it does not matter, it is said 2.20, which means 2.20. And don't argue.

Blondes are also interesting. The point is not whether the Albanians were blond or not (apparently they were), but the pride with which Azerbaijanis talk about the anthropometric perfection of their ancestors (and many other Caucasians too). I used to think that local beauty standards should be determined by the type of appearance that prevails in a given area at this stage of history. That is, if everyone is small and narrow-eyed (dark-haired and hook-nosed or black and curly-haired), then the local perception of beauty is formed within the framework of this particular type.

But no. Every now and then I had to hear dramatic confessions from the Chinese, Thais, Arabs, Turks, many representatives of the indigenous peoples of Russia, Central Asian Turks on the topic of how imperfect they are in comparison with European people. This idea was most succinctly expressed by one bile Turk, whom I met on my November trip. Once at dinner he, as usual gloomily, said, looking at his wife sitting next to him: "My wife is a freak ... Yes, I am a freak myself. Strictly speaking, we Turks are all freaks."

But the Azerbaijanis were lucky: their ancestors were blue-eyed blondes, twenty-two in height.

However, let's get back to the purpose of the trip. Here is the internal view of the church. Now there is something like a museum. The museum, frankly speaking, is very poor, you cannot even call it an exposition, rather, illustrative material on the theme of Caucasian Albania. The controversy over the damage caused by the restoration also affects the interior of the church, which, it is said, was also badly damaged.

When I went outside, I saw that the fog had almost cleared, and the slopes of the mountains became visible again.

A typical gate with a small door.

The young man squatted down in the middle of the street for a reason. He dragged a huge log onto a high hillock, which would later be sawn and go into the oven. But the path is not yet complete, and the young man sat down to rest before dragging the log further down the street, then fifty meters down, then another to the side, and then on another high icy hillock. I just followed in his footsteps, it happened, it was not an easy path. There are still flaws in the patriarchal life in the fresh mountain air.

A solid village fence has little in common with the dacha picket fence we are used to.

An interesting school poster: the poster, judging by the signature of Heydar Aliyev, is relatively new, but the school uniform is still of the Soviet model.

My walk is coming to an end. I walked out onto the path that leads back to the bus stop. On the opposite slope is the village cemetery.

Below there is already a mashrturka, it comes from the Sheki market, and someone brought fresh food, and someone fresh news.

The old tradition of building public water sources in modern design... A commemorative granite slab with engraved text is visible in the upper right corner.

Well, at the very stop, the last vivid impression of Kish is the men's salon. It is here that the beauties of Kish get their hairstyles according to the latest Kish fashion.

How to get there
From the northern part of Sheki to Kish there are minibuses No. 15 (he besh) and No. 23 (yirmi uch). Travel time is 15-20 minutes, the interval of movement is also 20-25 minutes. The fare is 20 gapiks (about 8 rubles). In fine weather, the church is said to be visible from the road. In bad weather, you can navigate the signs or ask the locals about the Albanian church - Alban Mabadi. Entrance to the church is 2 manats (about 75 rubles), shooting is the same.

Tourist paradise
All those who have visited Sheki want only one thing - to visit these places again

Ainur Talibova
Baku

Residents of Sheki do not respond to compliments about the beauty of these places. I'm used to it. Everyone likes Sheki. Everyone admires him, and almost everyone praises him. Sheki is a real tourist paradise, the center of tourism in the north-western region of Azerbaijan. And today it is the most popular place where almost the entire flow of foreign guests visiting Azerbaijan is directed.

Nature lovers are familiar with this place. Markhal is considered the most popular holiday destination. Having quickly gained fame in the 80s of the last century, Markhal has become a must-visit place for both locals and guests. In summer, residents of Sheki and surrounding areas come here in search of coolness. IN last years on the rushed here man-made lake catamarans also appeared. A kind of entertainment.
Markhal is beautiful in all seasons. If you are not even going to spend the night here, you should at least breathe in the heady air of these places and enjoy the enchanting landscape. Not far - just 7 kilometers away - there is another miracle of Sheki - the Khan plateau, where you can continue your journey.

Han mountain plateau

As the name implies, this is the place where the residence of the Sheki khans was located. They say that with the onset of heat, the Sheki Khan moved to this plateau with his family, servants, pets and stayed there until the onset of cold weather. According to the stories, a glass channel was even laid from there, through which milk was delivered to the khan's palace.
The plateau is located at a very high altitude and therefore no trees grow here. But the air is saturated with the heady scent of mountain flowers, especially thyme. In clear, sunny weather, the surrounding areas are clearly visible from here. Going to the Khan plateau, beware of the wolfhounds that guard the flocks. Better go up to the shepherd - he will protect you from the dogs, treat him with bread and cheese, pour aromatic tea from chabrets brewed right on the fire. Those who wish can take food, a tent and spend the night here.

In just a few minutes spent here, you will realize what the bustling city life is taking away from us. Only when you breathe deeply the pure mountain air-spirit and see the blush on the cheeks of the shepherd, you understand the wisdom of the Sheki khan, who chose this paradise a place of rest.
The Khan plateau stretches 15-20 km north of Sheki. It is better to get to these places with virgin nature by horse or jeep. The only road on the Khan plateau passes through Markhal, where you can solve the problem with transport. It doesn't matter if you don't have your own car. A local guide will provide you with safe ride to the forest spread on a steep slope. And during a trip in his car, you can observe the unique landscape, see squirrels, other forest animals and, if you're lucky, even a frightened bear cub. This exciting trip will give you true pleasure and unforgettable experience... Worth trying.
Guides recommend climbing the Han Plateau during the summer months when there is relatively little rainfall. The mudflow formed after the rain sweeps away everything in its path - shrubs, trees and even large boulders. Neither walk nor drive until a tractor arrives and clears the road. Shekina residents hope that the situation will change and these places will become even more attractive for tourists if a cable car or funicular is built from Markhal to the Khan plateau. Although extreme lovers are quite satisfied with mountain trails.
The adventure does not end with a trip to Markhal and the Khan plateau. Indeed, on the way back, we will have another trip that increases the level of adrenaline in the blood and which is a sin not to make. But more on that later. And now about one more attraction that you must visit.

"Place of Mustafa bey"

The Sheki people call this place “Mustafa Bek's camp”. Who is he? This is the question everyone is asking. One of a kind of Sheki khans at the beginning of the 20th century. At that time, this area was his personal property, where he vacationed with his family in the summer months. After the Bolshevization in 1920, a pioneer camp, famous throughout the Soviet Union, operated here for many years. Now it is a private recreation center. Compared to other similar places in Sheki, it is very low prices: only 6-8 manats per person, including breakfast. A real find if you want to escape from the city noise, breathe clean air and enjoy the beauty of a dense forest.
Gyulkhali quarter, where "Mustafa bey's place" is located, is the point from where the Sheki was laid. This quarter is also famous for other places of interest - there is a house in which the founder of drama in the East, writer, poet and playwright Mirza Fatali Akhundov (1812-1877) was born and raised, and a monument of the 15th century, the Gulkhali mosque, from which only the minaret has survived.
It is impossible to get around Sheki in one day. Those who want to have a good rest and explore the city should spend 3-4 days on it. Where to stay? The choice is quite wide. You can stay in hotels scattered throughout the city and its environs, and in Art Nouveau cottages, and in the houses of local residents who are ready to provide services to tourists traveling to Kechne Gala. Tourists can also use the "Caravanserai" hotel, where you will enjoy a real botanical environment. This old hotel was placed at the disposal of guests coming to Sheki after the restoration work carried out in 2002. It is designed for 75 people, but in summer it is very difficult to find a free seat here, unless you have reserved it in advance.

Horse breeding and hunting

How else can you spend time in Sheki? Horse and sports enthusiasts can witness traditional horse racing as well as equestrian games. In the Sheki horse breeding center, horses of various breeds are kept and raised. You can enjoy their beauty and even ride them.
Sheki is also one of the largest hunting bases in Azerbaijan. Those who like to hunt here can contact the Hunters Club, which has permission from the Ministry of Ecology and natural resources Azerbaydzhan. By registering, you can hunt some animals - wild boar, tur and others, the list of which is established by the same ministry.

Historical monuments

In the 1st century, Sheki was one of the largest cities in Caucasian Albania. The name Sheki was borne by one of the eleven administrative units of the Albanian state, located in the northwest. This is confirmed by numerous historical and cultural monuments related to the Caucasian Albania.

Caravanserais

On the bank of the Gyurjanchay river flowing right in the middle of Sheki, the main trade and business centers of the city are located. There are many bazaars and caravanserais in Sheki, because since ancient times it has been a city of handicrafts and trade.
Caravanserais are buildings common in the feudal East. Every traveler who has visited Sheki pays special attention to them. In the Middle Ages, they played a big role in the formation and development of this city.
In the XVIII-XIX centuries. in Sheki there were five large caravanserais - Isfahan, Tabriz, Lezgin, Armenian and Teze (New), where merchants arriving from distant countries stopped. The safety of their cargo was also ensured here. Merchants placed their goods in basements, traded on the first floor, and lived on the second floor.
To this day, only two caravanserais have survived, which belong to XVIII century and are known under the names Ashagi (Lower) and Yukhary (Upper) caravanserais. They were built by local craftsmen. Now the Yukhari caravanserai is used as a hotel. The dome located at its entrance is considered one of the largest in the Middle East.
The "House of Tea" in this caravanserai is perfect in terms of the tea service accepted in Azerbaijan. Sheki halva, famous Sheki sweets, a variety of jams and li-mon, which helps to regulate blood pressure after consuming a large number of sweet dishes, are served here with tea in glasses "armudu". Add to this the waiters who speak English with a Sheki accent, and you can easily imagine the whole flavor of the situation.

Albanian temple Kish

Albanian temple Kish is included in the list of UNESCO world monuments. This temple, located in the Kish village of the Sheki region of Azerbaijan, belongs to the 1st-5th centuries. and is considered one of the earliest temples in the Caucasus. Kish is an ancient village located 6-7 km from Sheki on the bank of the river of the same name.
This temple is visited by almost all local and foreign guests arriving in Sheki. Do not be discouraged by the closed doors of the local museum - its caretaker is a local resident who has an irregular working day. You can knock on him at any time and ask him to open the doors of the museum.
According to our guide Nasib Mukhtarov, in each of the villages scattered on the slopes of the mountains, you can see monuments dating back to the early Middle Ages. Let's take a look at some of them.

Temple of Bideish

It is located in a mountainous area 8-10 km from the village of Bideish. Built of large square hewn stones, the temple is surrounded by greenery. According to the architectural style, it belongs to about the 7th-8th centuries.
The area where the Bideis Temple is located is notable for its indescribable beauty. The temple stands in a clearing surrounded by forests and mountains. Our guide says that in the course of excavations carried out here underground, huge clay jugs were found. There is a lot of work to be done to study the history of this temple and the territory on which it is located.

Fazyl village

During the 90s of the last century and lasted for several years archaeological site In the village of Fazyl, the necropolis of Tepebashy was discovered, dating back to the ancient period. Scientists have found evidence of people living here in the Bronze Age - in the III millennium BC. The finds testify to the performance of ancient rituals reminiscent of the rituals of shamans.
The electricity supply to the village was cut off, and we descended into a labyrinthine mound with candles in our hands. Despite the hot summer weather, it is icy cold inside. Everywhere big and small bones of people and animals. Just like a horror movie.
The Tepebashi necropolis, where the mounds have been completely preserved, is the first labyrinth museum in Azerbaydzhan.

Fortress "Gelersen - Gorersen"

It is located on a steep cliff on the top of Mount Garatepe on the western bank of the Kish River, 8 km from Sheki. This fortress of strategic importance was founded in the 15th century by the ruler of Sheki, Alijan. Subsequently, or rather during the reign of Haji Chelebi Khan (1739-1775), this fortress played a very important role in the history of the entire region.
Haji Chelebi Khan is the founder of the first independent Sheki Khanate, a prominent statesman of Azerbaijan in the 18th century. This is a person whom Sheki residents are proud of. Haji Chelebi Khan was one of the leaders of the people's liberation war against the Iranian Shah Nadir. Having executed the governor of Nadir shah Melik Najafgulu in 1743, he proclaimed Sheki an independent state and refused to obey the shah.
In response to the ultimatum of Shah Nadir, Chelebi Khan replied: "Gelersen - Gorer-sen" (literally: "You come and see"), gathered aksakals, prominent people of the city, their families and took refuge in a high-mountain fortress near the village of Kish. They say that it was after this that the fortress began to be called “Gelersen-Göhrersen”.
The path to the fortress, though not long, is exhausting. The fact that you are at a strategic point on a steep cliff, you understand only after, out of breath, you get to the very top. The fortress offers an amazing view of the surroundings.
Only here you realize what Haji Chelebi hoped for when he spoke against the powerful Nadir Shah. Twice, in 1744 and 1745, Nadir's brother Ibrahim khan went with an army of 20,000 to suppress the rebellion in Sheki, but both times he could not capture this fortress. Although two years later, Haji Chelebi voluntarily left the fortress and stopped fighting, it is said that he did so, realizing the futility of further resistance. Struck by the fortitude of Haji Chelebi, Nadir Shah left him the title Sheki Khan... Since then, the saying “Haji Chelebi was a great man” appeared.
Today the fortress "Gelersen-Göhrersen" cordially welcomes everyone who comes here to get acquainted with the local sights and just breathe. So the name of the fortress "Come and see" still retains its relevance, but in a completely different sense. In a word, Sheki is a true find for lovers of historical excursions. All those leaving these places wish in their hearts about one thing - to visit Sheki again!

The church in the village of Kish is a Christian church, X-XII centuries in the village of Kish, 5 km north of the city of Sheki in the territory of modern Azerbaijan.

According to the Armenian historian Movses Kagankatvatsi, in the 1st century AD. NS. Saint Elisha, a disciple of the Apostle Thaddeus, arrived at a place called Gis, where he built a church and preached Christianity. The church soon became "a spiritual center and a place of enlightenment for the people of the East." Near the site of Gis, Saint Elisha was killed by unknown persons near a pagan altar.

According to the modern Armenian historian Samvel Karapetyan, geographical position Kisha does not match the description of Kagankatvatsi. S. Karapetyan believes that Gis should be identified with the village of Bum in the Gabala region of Azerbaijan. According to the Georgian chronicler, in the 10th century the population of Kish adopted Georgian Orthodoxy and built this church. The Church of the Holy Mother of God was turned into the residence of the Georgian bishop, functioning until the 17th century.

By the time the Russians arrived in the Caucasus, Kish was one of the villages, the population of which continued to perceive itself as Udins. According to Robert Hewsen, it appears that the Udi language predominated in the region until the 19th century, while the Armenian population was relatively recent. Although many Armenians settled here, fleeing the Turkic-Mongol invasions, even more Armenians moved to the region after the arrival of the Russians in the early 19th century.

In 2000-2003, the Norwegian Foreign Ministry financed a joint project of the Azerbaijan University of Construction and Architecture and the Norwegian Humanitarian Enterprise for archaeological research and restoration of the church in Kish. The head of the excavation was Dr. Vilayat Kerimov from Baku University, and the archaeological advisor J. Bjornar Sturfiel, director of the Thor Heyerdahl Research Center in Islesbury, England. Radiocarbon analysis of various items found at the site has shown that the site of worship found under the altar of the church dates back to around 3000 BC. BC, while the existing church building was erected around the 12th century (990-1160 AD).

The existing church building cannot be dated to the time of St. Elisha, but archaeological finds show that the church is located in an area that has been used for worship since ancient times. It is unlikely that Saint Elisha built a church in the modern sense of the word. If such a historical figure really existed, then he most likely erected only an altar or used an existing pagan structure.

Bjornar Sturfiel told Azerbaijan International magazine that there is clear evidence that this church was built as a Dyophysite church. Excavations have shown that the church retains traces of two periods of use, with two different respective floor levels. According to Sturfiel, the apse architecture of the original building of the church indicates a Dyophysite Christology, and since the Georgian Orthodox Church was the only Dyophysite church in the Caucasus in the late medieval period, it is reasonable to assume that the church was originally built as Georgian, and later occupied by the Monophysites. The researcher Bernard Storfel notes that the opinion of Farida Mamedova that the church in the village of Kish was founded at the end of the 1st century AD. NS. not worthy of scientific attention, not confirmed by archeology, and the earliest church buildings in the world date back only to the 3rd century.