Monte Baldo is a must see on Lake Garda. Garda

Beautiful - ugly, like - don't like, of course, these are evaluative categories. However, most tourists are surprisingly unanimous about Malcesine. It is he who holds the unofficial title of the most beautiful town on the eastern shore of Garda.

I will not convince or dissuade you from this. Of course, it’s best to watch everything yourself and draw your own conclusions. I’ll just tell you exactly how Malcesine bribed me.

Malcesine is located about 40 km from Verona. You can get here from the city of Romeo and Juliet by bus No. 162. The city is surrounded on all sides by mountains, so here you can simultaneously bask in the sun by the lake and admire the snow-capped peaks.

The medieval center of Malcesine is an absolutely charming place. The streets here are crooked and narrow, the houses are tiny and painted in the brightest colors.

The city is solid stone, but at the same time something grows and blooms from every crack.

Notice how carefully the owners of this house cut the wall for the vine.

All this colorful stone blanket interspersed with primroses and geraniums slides towards the water.

The stone labyrinth of arches and alleys ends in a tiny paved square at the pier.

Although this place is absolutely touristy, the food at the pier is quite edible. True, the prices are not the lowest, but at the beginning of March most local establishments have not yet woken up from hibernation, so there is not much choice.

And for such surroundings it’s not a sin to overpay a little.

And for some reason this tiny stone square near the water seemed to me like a theater stage.

If there weren’t so many people milling around the pier, you’d think you were really inside some kind of theatrical set.

The view of the lake is quite limited here because of the stone walls, and some strange objects are displayed in front of the water, as if on the proscenium. Even the trees in this strange surroundings seem not to have been planted forever, but only forgotten by someone for a while.

But if you go out onto the pier, you immediately seem to find yourself in another place, where there is a lot of light, air and lush greenery hanging over the water.

The highlight of the city is the Scaliger Castle of the 13th century, which now houses a historical museum, which we did not go to.

Honestly, I didn’t want to waste time walking through the halls with dusty exhibits at the expense of such views. In general, I fell in love with Malcesine. The reason for this is this town itself, as if sewn from many tiny colorful scraps, and the beautiful weather, and the fact that there were not very many tourists here in March.

After walking around Malcesine, we were still planning to climb Monte Baldo. This can be done on the funicular, which is located just above the historical center of the city and operates all year round. The exact schedule and ticket prices can be found here http://www.funiviedelbaldo.it/ However, the information from the site is sometimes not true. In our case, the funicular stopped working not at 17:00, but at 15:00. Therefore, we did not have time to climb the mountain. Only in the photographs there was a piece of the lower station peeking out from behind the blooming acacia.

And although I don’t have my own experience of climbing the mountain, I will still share the information received from our guide and gleaned from the reports of other travelers. It is better to plan the climb to Monte Baldo in the first half of the day. This is especially true in the high summer season, because... At this time, you can stand in line for an hour and a half to go up and the same amount to go down. By the way, in our case the lift was closed precisely because 3,000 people managed to climb the mountain and so that everyone had time to go down before the evening, the administration simply stopped the ascent. The ascent takes place in two stages - first to the San Michele station (≈460 m), where you need to change to a smaller cabin and go up to Monte Baldo (≈1800 m). Those interested can only take a ticket to San Michele. It will cost about 2 times cheaper. In general, you can get to San Michele by car. Here you can see where you have to climb.

There are a lot of people crammed into the cable car cabins (up to 80 people), so in order to see something, you need to try to get through to the windows. The cabins rotate 360 ​​degrees during the ascent, but the glass in them is cloudy, so you still can’t take good pictures along the way. The main feature of Monte Baldo is the excellent view of Grada. Therefore, it is worth climbing the mountain on a clear day. Otherwise, you’ll just have to walk around, watch hang gliders, alpacas and gray cows with big bells. In winter, the ski resort Tratto Spino operates on Monte Baldo. Therefore, on the other side of the mountain there is an ordinary ski lift without any glass or cabins. It costs about 3 times less than the funicular, but only operates during the season. In general, despite the fact that we were not able to climb Monte Baldo, we were not upset. The day was foggy. We still wouldn’t have seen the guard from the mountain, but we would have spent at least three hours. And the photographs of the castle from the lower station of the funicular are also not the worst.

The north of Italy is a magical place where it is beautiful at any time of the year. We already had an article as well. And today we will talk about Monte Baldo, where you can encounter clouds and offer stunning views of Garda. Maria Levitskaya had a chance to see these landscapes in October, when they shimmer with all possible shades from green to orange.

I have always dreamed of visiting Italy in October, seeing it in autumn foliage and driving through places that I love very much. One such place is Lake Garda. This is one of the largest lakes in northern Italy. Holidays here are considered one of the most prestigious among those over 30. Once, while hitchhiking, we met a couple of Italians who came here on vacation and told us that wealthy Italians are trying to buy a house or apartment here. Prices for rent and food here are relatively low compared to the rest of Italy. Even on my last trip, I was captivated by the mountains surrounding the lake and the small towns and villages with their own medieval history located along the shores. But, unfortunately or fortunately, then it was not possible to take the funicular to the highest point above the lake.



To climb Monte Baldo you need to get to Malcesine. This is where the cable car is located, along which you can climb to the very top and appreciate the beauty and scale of the lake. The top station of the cable car is located at an altitude of 1,760 meters, and from this point you can see the lake in the palm of your hand. A single ticket for the whole day will cost about 20 euros, but if you have a dog with you or are bringing a bicycle with you, you will have to pay extra for all this. The cable car cabins accommodate 40–60 people and rotate around their axis, which means that you can see the entire area already in the cabin. At the top, if you're lucky, you can find grazing alpacas (those whose wool produces the softest and warmest knitted items) and cows, as well as more than 60 species of orchids, edelweiss (Alpine stars), wild peony and a magnificent red lily.



The view from the top depends on the weather and time of year. We were lucky and saw the October green-ochre tops of spruce trees, ashen hills and gentle plateaus. The weather in October is quite unpredictable, especially in the mountains, and at the top it can change several times a minute, so it is very important to dress correctly. During our climb there was rain, snow, hail, fog and very high humidity. The best option would be a raincoat, waterproof boots, a warm sweater, a scarf and a hat, they will ensure that you want to stay on top and admire the views all day long. By the way, you can also have a snack at the station; there is a good canteen there. However, it is much more interesting to take sandwiches, wine and fruit with you and enjoy lunch sitting on a bench and looking at the lake or the majestic Dolomites. If you like active recreation, then here you can ride a bike or fly paragliding all day long. It is also surprising that on one slope of the mountain the wind can rage, but on the other there is silence and the sun is blazing. It’s an amazing feeling when you stand on the top and see a huge cloud moving towards you from which you can’t hide. And then it covers you and you don’t see anything, another 10 seconds and it lets go of you, and you’re on top again.



















This hike took place in mid-October in a “solo” format. Three full days on the trail and two nights in mountain shelters, which during this period are open only on weekends and subject to good weather.

I planned the route to cover Monte Baldo from south to north. From a logistics point of view, this direction of hike was convenient for me, but in general, it doesn’t matter which way you walk along Monte Baldo, you can go from north to south, it’s equally beautiful.

The starting point is down by the lake. A crisp autumn morning on Garda is very beautiful. I am attaching a couple of photos to the gallery.

Rising above Monte Baldo, the sun illuminates the peaks of the western slopes, slowly creeps down to the lake, everything around comes to life, and the day begins. Over the lake, scattered clouds hang low and low and begin to move when they hit the sun. Wonderful views, a cup of tea on the ferry, a great start to the day!

On the first day there is 1800 meters of ascent on my route. This is a climb from the lake to the Monte Baldo ridge on the south side. At first, the path goes over the coast along pack paths through olive groves without a noticeable climb. It is warm here, although the sun has not yet illuminated the slope, and humid.

Several pack trails lead to the meadows at an altitude of about 1000 meters. I choose the southernmost path, because... my goal is to walk the entire length of Monte Baldo - after passing through the forest belt, I should be at the southernmost point before climbing the ridge.

The pack trails on Garda are very ancient. This is explained on the stand below by the lake. A thousand years ago (as now) people lived on the coast. They simply had to go up for the following reasons: for mushrooms and berries, for firewood, to the upper meadows for grazing, and to hunt game. Therefore, they cut and paved these pack paths, and they did it very well: a thousand years have passed, and the paths can be walked on. In some places, even iron hooks remained, which served as brakes for mule carts when stopping - heather from the cart was thrown onto them. In general, it is not entirely correct to call pack trails trails; they are rather narrow paths.

Below, where the olive groves are, it is hot and humid. As you rise, the olive trees give way to low deciduous forest, which is also hot but dry. Higher up, the lake opens wider and wider, the further you go, the more beautiful it becomes.

Along the way I come across a couple of uninhabited farms. In the best locations, with wonderful views of Garda. The people who built them knew how to choose a place. No one lives on these farms, but everything is in order, almost perfect. I think the owners spend a few weekends on the farm in the summer and a couple of weeks in August.

From the path you can clearly see the opposite bank of the Garda. It is low in the middle part of the lake, at first glance no higher than 1000 meters. From a trekking point of view this is not interesting. Further south the mountains disappear and there is a plain. Mountains grow higher to the north, in the north the western coast is about 1300-1500 meters.

The slopes of Monte Baldo, facing Garda, are very poor in water. There are only a few springs on slopes stretching over 30 kilometers. On my way today there is one source, enclosed in a capitally constructed sarcophagus, which is thickly covered with ivy. I pour tap water out of bottles and fill them with natural water, it tastes better. In general, you need to take a lot of water. I always take 2 liters of water and 1 liter of tea in a thermos. And today I have an additional one liter thermos, I knew it would be a hot day.

The ascent through the forest is the steepest section of the entire route. It took me 3 hours. All this time you can see the lake behind you below. By the way, I didn’t meet a single person on the trail all day.

At an altitude of about 1100 meters, the forest briefly gives way to meadows, and the terrain here is flatter. Since ancient times, these meadows have been used by residents of the coastal towns of Garda for grazing livestock. They also had a hand in creating these meadows by cutting down the forest. Now there are several houses and a cafe where I was treated to delicious bread. A little higher is the lift, which has not been working since September 2013. On the one hand, it’s bad, the lift doesn’t work. On the other hand, it’s good, because there are not a huge number of tourists at the top.

At an altitude of about 1300 meters, autumn colors appear. Mid-October, it's time. The path here from the lower meadows (those places were called Prada) was not the most interesting. It's about an hour. The fun begins here: a pleasant and relaxed climb to the southern tip of the Monte Baldo ridge.

At the fork just above the forest I was let down by the map and the lack of a sign. Having flown past the sign (or perhaps there wasn’t one at all), 15 minutes later I found myself on the eastern slope on a path that stubbornly refused to climb towards my goal. The hundred-year-old military fort and the farm were not marked in any way on the map, there were no other landmarks, and we had to navigate by the cardinal points and force our way up a slope without paths.

Back on the trail, I found myself in a corridor between two gentle ridges of Monte Baldo. It turns out that in the south of Monte Baldo there are two ridges stretching upward, not just one. The main trail goes between them, with neither the lake nor the mountains visible on the right. Walking along such a corridor is not interesting, so I jumped over the left ridge towards Garda and found myself on a path with breathtaking views, running parallel to the corridor a little below the ridge. Now I wish I could take pictures, but I’m tired, and I’m not a fan of taking pictures.

In the area of ​​1800 m, supports from a non-working lift rise to the ridge. Inspiring views both to the right and to the left, Garda in full view. The shelter is even higher, its location couldn’t be better, you can see everything around, the slope faces exactly south. Four guys are bustling around in the shelter, I am the only guest, because everyone thinks that the shelter is closed at this time.

Having rested before dinner, I take my camera and go out with the guys from the shelter to watch the sunset. I have watched many sunsets in the mountains, this one is definitely among the best. Since the shelter is located extremely well, only the north is not visible. In the south you can see the chain of the Apennine Mountains, and by the way they are 160 km away. Below Lake Garda turns black, it’s almost night there. The white Adamello glaciers are very close, and far behind them stands Bernina like a pyramid, 110 km away. The Dolomiti di Brenta group goes north and disappears behind the ridge. The entire valley of the Po River in front of the Apennines sparkles with lights. The peaks in the east are illuminated by the setting sun. A magnificent sight, it was not in vain that I went up. Now have dinner and rest, and tomorrow we’ll hit the road again.

The main tourist centers of the lake Garda(Garda) Three coastal towns can be considered: Sirmione(Sirmione), Malcesine(Malcesine) And Limone sul Garda(Limone sul Garda). You can stay in them, but if you want more peace and quiet, then any place from Malcesine to Torri de Belnaco will do. This coast, in my opinion, is the best for living in terms of beauty, location relative to all attractions, and price-quality ratio. There are many restaurants here, which are located on the coastline, along which there is a walking path. In general, there is where to walk and what to see. The water in the lake is clean and warms up to 23-25 ​​degrees in summer, so swimming is quite possible, only the beaches are, naturally, rocky, there are no sandy ones.

There are only four entertainment options: take the funicular up Monte Baldo, visit the Scaliger Castle, stroll through the narrow streets with a bunch of shops, and take a boat trip to Limone sul Garda.


Malcesine

Strictly speaking, from any point on the lake you can swim to Limone sul Garda, but traveling from Malcesine more pleasant, because you can immediately plan a whole day of excursion and entertainment. Those. Arriving in the city, first take the funicular to the top of Monte Baldo, then walk around the town and look into the fortress. Then take a boat (9 euros round trip) to the opposite shore in Limone sul Garda, take a walk there, have lunch, perhaps swim, and return to Malcesine, where you can drink coffee and wander around the local shops.

Funicular to Monte Baldo

The climb up the mountain is memorable for its gorgeous panoramas and llamas grazing in the high-mountain meadows.


Funicular to Monte Baldo


Rental bikes

Scaliger Castle

There are many such castles all along the coast. They were not used for housing, they are purely defensive structures with characteristic battlements (dovetail) on the walls, very similar to the walls of the Moscow Kremlin. The castle in Malcesine is well preserved.


Castle of the Scaligers. Malcesine

There is practically nothing to see inside - a small local history exhibition and a couple of rooms, one of which is dedicated to Goethe’s short imprisonment within the castle walls, but it’s worth just wandering around the halls and climbing the tower.

Boat sailing in Limone sul Garda

You can get to the country of Limonia, where lemons actually grow and limoncella (a sickly sweet lemon liqueur) is sold at every turn, using various boats. For 13 euros you can use the services of lake trams following the schedule posted at the ticket offices or for 9 euros private boats. The choice depends rather on the specific timing of the return flight - trams have more options.

The 20-minute boat ride is pleasant in every way. The town is charming, but you shouldn't limit yourself to just the coastal streets.


Limone sul Garda

Climb a little higher to a charming park near the local city hall. There is a fishing museum, several greenhouses with lemon trees and a mineral water spring.

Result: Lake Garda, in my opinion, is the most beautiful of the northern Italian lakes. At the same time, it is the most attractive from the point of view of active recreation and recreation with children. There are entertainment parks Garda Land with an aquarium and Caneva World with a water park, a safari park and a zoo, the Sigurta Landscape Park and the Aquaardens Thermae, the Catullo Baths in Sirmione and the Varone Waterfall. There is something to do - come! Lake Garda is waiting for you!

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Dmitry Sokolov

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If I come somewhere where there are mountains and there is an opportunity to climb there, then I will definitely take advantage of it. This happened during a trip to Lake Garda. The entire northern part of the lake is famous for its mountainous terrain, but the most popular is Monte Baldo, whose height is 2,218 m! Below the cut are practical tips when visiting this absolutely must-see place on Lake Garda.

How to get there
There are two main ways to get closer to the top.

First option- the funicular from Malcesine is the most suitable for tourists from all points of view and rises to a height of approximately 1,800 meters.

The funicular is easy to get to without a car, its operating schedule is adequate, and the funicular stations boast a well-developed infrastructure.

You can see the "old style" cabin.

But the rise is carried out on more modern ones.

Their main “trick” is that part of the way they rotate 360 ​​degrees (they change at an intermediate station on the way up), i.e. no matter which side you stand on, you can see everything around! The views are amazing!

The funicular can be used from the end of March to the beginning of November (you can go up from 8.00 to 16.00, go back down from 8.15 to 16.45). Cost - 22 euros (basic option, see below for details).

Second option- outdoor chairlift from Pra Alpesina, accessible by car. This type of transport is available from mid-June until almost mid-September, with breaks during the day (from 9.00 to 13.00 and from 14.00 to 17.00). Cost - 7 euros (basic option, details, see below). In my opinion, this option is inferior to the first according to the most important criterion - visual impressions. After all, unlike the funicular, the lift goes from the other side of the mountain, so you won’t have the same views of the lake as from the funicular.

More detailed information about the work schedule and prices for both options can be found on the website www.funiviedelbaldo.it, namely at this link.

How to avoid queues
You can often find reviews that waiting for the cable car to rise during the season can take an hour or two. My trip took place in mid-May, which, along with other factors (which I will write about below), allowed me to avoid queues.

The easiest way to reduce waiting time, but which requires additional costs, is to buy a fast track ticket straight away. Its cost is much higher (35 euros with a ticket price of 22 euros), but here everyone decides for themselves. At least they provide this opportunity and that’s great.

What does not require additional costs? Firstly, you can simply arrive earlier. As practice and reviews have shown, the peak of the rise occurs at noon, plus or minus an hour. If you find yourself at the funicular around 9 am, you can not only avoid the queue, but also save money (more on this below). I found myself at the lower funicular station at about 11 am (since I had to get there from Desenzano del Garda), the queue was already there (the waiting time took no more than 20 minutes) and was growing every minute.

There is another free life hack. At the funicular station you will have to stand in two lines: first buy a ticket, and then go towards the funicular. But you can buy a ticket in advance: either online on the website or along the way at the tourist office. This will allow you to immediately go to the queue for the funicular.

As reviews say, few people use the open chairlift, so queues are not typical.

How to save money
The most obvious option is to use the outdoor chairlift (its price is only 7 euros, and after 16.00 - 5 euros). You can even get confused and walk from it to the funicular station.

If we consider the funicular, then if you have a Garda Card you can buy a ticket with a slight discount (19 euros versus 22 euros). Or you can arrive early and not only avoid queues, but also buy a cheaper ticket (until 9.00 the ticket price is 15 euros).

Is a couple of hours enough?
My answer: if possible, it is better to arrive early and leave later. There's plenty to do here! Here, for example, is a trail map.

Most tourists follow the red carpet to the observation deck. But the other trails deserve no less attention, and if you have time, it’s worth wandering along them.

You can even leave the trails and come across this small lake.

Which seems especially tiny compared to Lake Garda.

You can see such romantic things.

There are also always a lot of paragliders here - it’s very cool to watch them.

Where to eat
Near the funicular station there is all the necessary infrastructure, including public catering points. But no matter how attractive the views from the terraces are, I still advise you to go a little further.

On the way to the observation deck (if you follow the red carpet) there will be a restaurant called La Capannina.

I can say with confidence that of all the cafes and restaurants on mountain peaks that I visited, this one was the most memorable. The menu here is quite simple (although the selection is good), but the atmosphere itself is amazing! There is no fuss, there is no shortage of sun loungers, there are very cozy ottomans. In general, everything is conducive to enjoying the air, the sun and not rushing anywhere!

Alpacas: can you always find them?
In many reviews you can find information that alpacas live not far from the cable car and you can buy products made from their wool. The products were present, but there were no alpacas. As it turned out, they are brought only when it is already more or less warm, but due to the abnormally cold spring in mid-May they were not there yet. But when it gets warmer, you can find them near this house (it is located next to the red trail).