Through Mongolia by car, the southern route. Four thousand kilometers by car in Mongolia Travel by car to Mongolia

I’ll briefly explain to the girls and those who are not yet in the know: the Toyota Prius is a hybrid Japanese car in which a gasoline engine is supplemented by an electric one. The process of their joint work is controlled by the on-board computer, and the main (gasoline) engine runs only when necessary. And it turns off as soon as the need for its efforts disappears - when driving at low speed (for example, in traffic jams), while stopping at a traffic light, when braking, when driving with the gas pedal released or on a slope and in other situations when the electric motor is able to cope on your own.

Thanks to this, hybrid cars are more environmentally friendly than conventional cars with internal combustion engines, but, of course, that’s not why Mongolians buy them. But because “hybrids” allow you to save on gasoline, which, as I already wrote, is expensive in Mongolia. Consumption for Priuses is from 4 to 6 liters per 100 kilometers, depending on the version, season and driving style. Driving in eco mode along long steppe routes allows local residents to significantly save on fuel.

Hybrid cars have one small drawback (but it is also an advantage) - the starting battery. It is used to turn on the car - yes, that's right - and maintain its functions when it is turned off (powering the clock and alarm, for example), so it gradually discharges. So the “hybrid” does not like to stand idle for a long time; it needs to be “walked” at least once every few days so that the starting battery is recharged. These cars especially don’t like to sit idle during the cold season. But in constant use, the battery feels vigorous, and the car does not need to be warmed up regularly in cold weather, like regular cars. Even at -30° and below, it will turn on without problems - it doesn’t need to turn a frozen starter. But the capabilities of the starting battery are very limited, and, for example, you cannot “light” a regular car from a “hybrid”, only a fellow car with the same cute little battery. So if you suddenly need this kind of help, don’t rely on Priuses, look for a simpler or larger car.

The Mongolian government strongly welcomes the purchase of “hybrids”. In principle, this country already has very humane duties on imported cars - they don’t have their own “automotive industry” that needs to be pulled by the ears with all their might, which means there is no need for protective duties on imports. The duty on hybrid cars is even lower than on regular cars. Moreover, since June 2016, Mongolia has abolished the customs rate for importing new cars from Japan and taxes on Japanese cars with mileage less than 3 years. An excellent example of competent import regulation, when the import of higher quality goods is encouraged. So in the near future this country will put us behind the belt in terms of the number of cool cars per capita. In terms of automotive environmental friendliness, I think it’s already closed. Eh, lucky!

From Barnaul to the capital of Genghis Khan’s homeland - 2372.51 km. Many Altai tourists are increasingly choosing this particular direction for travel. We tell you what Mongolia attracts, how to get there, what to see and how much the trip will cost.

Why Mongolia?

Not everyone will decide to rush to Mongolia. Despite the relative proximity to Altai region, the path ahead is not the closest. This direction is mainly preferred by independent tourists.

Mongolia is located on a vast territory, so the distances between settlements quite impressive, and the quality of the road surface cannot always be called good. Travelers are attracted by the wild, not touched by man nature, national color, gastronomic novelties and unusual landscapes.

And also endless steppes, clear lakes, the Gobi Desert, snowy peaks, and the hospitality of the local residents. Here yurts are not entertainment for tourists, but ordinary life, food over a fire.

It’s not for nothing that Mongolia is called the land of blue skies. There are more than 260 sunny days per year, and in the Gobi Desert it may not rain for several years.

How to get there?

If you are traveling by car from Barnaul, then it is better to split the trip into several days. For example, get to the village of Aktash in the Altai Mountains, stop there for the night and relax. Moreover, the road to the Ulagansky district of the republic runs through stunning beautiful places. And it’s simply impossible to drive without stopping.

For example, you will have to overcome two passes: Seminsky and Chike-Taman, where you must take a photo as a souvenir. This also applies to the place where Katun and Chuya merge, and a few kilometers from the village of Aktash there is the famous Geyser Lake, which has become popular among tourists.

The road along the Chuysky tract is in excellent condition, however, repairs are underway in some sections, so forced stops or even traffic jams are possible. Some travelers say they had to stand for up to four hours before being allowed to pass.

The road along the Chuysky tract, although good, is not easy, you won’t be able to drive fast, and few people want to accelerate on mountain serpentines and winding descents. So you can make the next stop, for example, in the village of Tashanta, relax, gain strength and move on.

What documents are needed to travel to Mongolia?

Need a passport driver's license, documents for the car. But you don’t need to apply for a visa. More precisely: if you are going to stay in Mongolia for less than 30 days, then you won’t need it. If you expect the trip to last more than a month, then a visa is needed.

Of course, the import of drugs, psychotropic drugs and explosives, weapons and ammunition, samples of animal and plant tissue, as well as pornography is prohibited. If you intend to export furs and skins, gold, precious metals and precious stones, as well as items of cultural or artistic value from Mongolia, they must be presented to customs. The cost of each item should not exceed 500 USD; if this amount is exceeded, a duty of 10% to 100% must be paid.

These are not all restrictions, but there are not many of them. Please read them carefully before your trip.

Where to live?

Since in last years Interest in Mongolia is growing and there are plenty of offers for tourists. In cities, tourists are offered accommodation in hotels, inns, and recreation centers. Prices vary; on the Internet you can find both very inexpensive offers (from 700 rubles per day) and hotel rooms for 20 thousand rubles.

But outside of Ulaanbaatar and major cities everything is much more complicated. The only accommodation option is a yurt. Most yurt camps are owned by private individuals. There are both cheap and expensive ones. A range of services from basic camping-type accommodation to luxury options with all amenities. Meals are usually half board or full board. The cost of accommodation starts from 2000 rubles per day.

It is advisable to look for a place to spend the night in advance, having already planned the route.

What is?

National Mongolian cuisine. Everyone's attitude towards her is different. Someone recommends not to rely too much on gastronomic pleasure so as not to be disappointed. Others fall in love once and for all with tea with cream and salt, koumiss, and lamb dishes. By the way, basically all meat dishes are prepared from sheep, and they also love goat meat. Less commonly, horse meat and beef. The food is filling and fatty. So if you are on a special diet for health reasons, it is better to take cereals with you and cook them yourself.

By the way, food in a cafe will cost very little; for example, for a plate of noodles with lamb you will have to pay about 120 rubles.

When to go?

Officially best season in Mongolia - from June to early September. However, travelers who traveled at other times say that Mongolia is always beautiful. The main thing is to take the right clothes. The more warm clothes, the better.

What to see?

It depends on what interests you first. Some come for fishing and scenery, others consider it necessary to visit the Gobi Desert. Mongolia is different for everyone. And this country occupies a huge territory. So you won't be able to watch it completely in one go. Or it will take a very long time.

But there are still places that are highly recommended to visit.

Natural attractions of Mongolia: Lake Khovsgol, the deepest in Central Asia. By the way, it is very popular for fishing and ecotourism. Travelers also choose to visit the valley of the Selenga River, which flows into Lake Baikal. You can also visit sacred mountain Bogdo-Ula, the birthplace of Genghis Khan, the surrounding area has the status of a nature conservation zone. And, of course, if you are primarily interested in nature, go to the Gobi Desert. This, of course, is a drop in the ocean from what you can see in Mongolia.

One lunch or dinner in an inexpensive restaurant will cost about 190 rubles. In a higher class establishment - about 1200 rubles. Prices for food in supermarkets differ from those in Barnaul. It's more expensive in Mongolia. For example, a loaf of bread costs 44 rubles, a carton of milk costs approximately 62 rubles, eggs (12 pieces) cost 142 rubles. Vegetables and fruits are also more expensive than in Barnaul.

Accommodation, if you are not traveling with tents, is also a significant expense.

Have you ever been to Mongolia? I’m sure the majority will answer no, but in the meantime, such exoticism is gaining popularity. The usual destinations Turkey, Cyprus, Egypt are always relevant, but more and more people are interested in something new, something unusual, something unknown. In this essay, we will look at what to watch.

general information

Mongolia is an extremely interesting country, this moment little known. It is not closed, like Turkmenistan, by no means. The Asian state borders Russia and China. The country's territory is the 19th largest in the world, with a population of three million people.

The history of Mongolia knows many pages. It is impossible not to mention the prehistoric era. Scientists have found that the country's territory was previously covered by forests and swamps, which were replaced by steppes and deserts. On a regular basis, scientists find dinosaur remains in sand-covered lands.

In our minds, the Mongols are associated with the Mongol-Tatar yoke, however, even before the birth of the statehood of Genghis Khan, the Huns lived on the territory of the modern country. These people regularly encroached on Chinese lands, which forced them to build the famous Chinese wall. In the 12th century, nomadic tribes began to unite, giving birth to the loudest milestone in the history of the people and its most destructive. The Golden Horde conquered, conquered, destroyed, and grew rich.

The 16th century was also a turning point for the Mongolian people, largely determining its modern face. Buddhism penetrated the Mongolian lands. The khans did not greet the advent of the new religion very cordially and for a long time fought against the spread of the Buddha’s teachings, but over time they retreated. The second fighter against Buddhism was the USSR. In 1924, Mongolia gained independence with the support of the Soviets. In 1934, Stalin wanted to eradicate Buddhism from the country, but the local authorities, represented by Genden, did not want this. Nowadays, Mongolia is increasingly moving towards Buddhism; the vast majority of young people under 15 connect their lives with this religion, despite the fact that there are almost 200 Christian churches and 50 Muslim ones in the country.

Tourism Mongolia

Local tourism is definitely growing. The Mongols are interested in the tourism sector bringing income to the treasury. At the moment, Mongolia is actively promoting its tourism product. By concluding cooperation and partnership pacts, including with Russia. - this is not nonsense, this is a fascinating journey through a very specific country.

The flow from Russia is growing every year, mainly from nearby regions, such as Tuva and Buryatia. Undoubtedly, the driving force is Buddhism, which brings these regions closer to Mongolia. The main direction is capital Ulaanbaatar As you know, the Mongols are a nomadic people, but it was the capital that united them into a city. Interestingly, on the outskirts of the city, you can find traditional yurts, which make up entire districts. We will talk about Ulaanbaatar a little lower; there is another attractive feature of local tourism.

The Mongols are actively promoting nomadic tourism. They provide tourists with the opportunity to live in a real nomadic town, where they offer traditional nomadic dishes and introduce them to life and customs. This is fascinating, or rather goes deep into it, and gets a lot of positive feedback from travelers. The Gobi Desert has a special charm; entire excursion trips are held here.

In general, Mongolia's tourism is extremely unusual and authentic, interesting and original. An exception may be Ulaanbaatar, where the understanding of tourism is more common. Otherwise, the country will surprise.

Climate

Mongolia is a country with an amazing climate, it is very harsh and harsh. If we take the capital as an example, which is so popular among tourists, then compare the differences with Russia. Winters are very cold, air temperatures often reach -35’C, while summers are very hot and dry. The closer to the north, the more precipitation, in the Gobi Desert They almost never happen at all. The climate is tempering, the Mongols are very strong people, while wisdom and some kind of harmony with the environment is always felt. Before you go to Mongolia, be sure to think about what to take with you. Be more careful with the weather.

Ulaanbaatar

The capital of the country, where almost half of all residents live. To be more precise, the figure is slightly more than one million and four hundred thousand inhabitants. Ulaanbaatar is located in the valley of the Tuul River, at an altitude of 1300 meters above sea level. The capital is the center of everything in the country: commercial, scientific, spiritual, cultural.

The history of the name of this city is interesting. Let us clarify that it was founded in 1639. At first the city was called Urga, but with the arrival of Buddhism in the country, the path that the country and its people should follow was clear. main city. Genghis Khan- a huge part of the history of the Mongolian people, but those were goals of conquest, while Mongolia of the twentieth century wanted to follow the path of creation and development. A revolutionary name was needed. “Ulan” was chosen, which means “red” - the color of revolutions. At the first meeting regarding the renaming of the city, the decision was made unanimously.

The city is very diverse, there is a lot to see. It may come as a surprise to some, but the Mongolian capital has all types of accommodation, including five-star hotels. For understanding, this modern city, where there is everything necessary for life. Restaurants (by the way, let's talk about traditional cuisine, she will surprise you), cafes, bars, interesting places for walks and various kinds of attractions:

• Gaidan Monastery is the largest in Mongolia. In the 19th century, 14 thousand monks lived here. In one of the buildings of Gaidan there is a 25-meter statue of Buddha.

• Bogdykhan Palace is a museum that used to be the residence of the viceroy of the Chinese imperial house. Now it is a museum where a huge number of historical exhibits are stored. The palace is very beautiful, both inside and outside.
• Monument to Genghis Khan. The iconic figure of the Mongolian nation is cast in metal and is located at the entrance to the city. 30 meters high. In the future, they want to build a yurt complex here where everyone can stay.
• Amarbayasgalant – temple complex, which has been restored several times. It is considered one of the main Buddhist centers of Mongolia.
• Buddha Park – big park, which opened in 2006. Now Buddha Park is favorite place For family vacation. Space and beautiful landscape mountains, that's what catches your eye on your first visit. Oh, yes, there is also a huge Buddha statue in the center of the park.
• Ikh-Bogd-Uul is a mountain where, according to legend, Genghis Khan himself spent the winter. He also forbade cutting down trees in this place, essentially creating a nature reserve. There are hiking and excursions to the mountain.
• The Choijin Lama Temple was opened at the very beginning of the twentieth century. This is a small temple, from which you can say that it is not 100, but 500 years old. The temple is surrounded by a residential area.
• Museum of the History of Ulaanbaatar. Beautiful place, which will tell about the history of the capital. The exhibition contains both geological and archaeological finds.
• Market Naran-Tul. Don’t consider us biased if we add the market to the list of attractions. However, Naran-Tul unique place which attracts tourists. At the market you can buy boxes made of boar bones, tambourines, cashmere products, famous Mongolian hats and fur coats. Best place It’s hard to find where you can buy a souvenir from the Mongolian capital.
• Roerich House-Museum. One day, the Russian explorer and mystic Roerich decided to travel around Asia in order to study local customs and Buddhism. It was in this house that Roerich wrote his famous work “Fundamentals of Buddhism.”

Possible advantage travel to Mongolia, may be the fact that Russians do not need a visa. Only on the condition that you are going to Mongolia for less than 30 days. The currency used is tugriks, maybe someone has heard of this currency, on which Genghis Khan is depicted.

Everything is named after Genghis Khan: restaurants, hotels, streets.

Accommodation is possible for every taste; it is interesting that there is accommodation for every budget. Hotels in the capital start their rates from 250 rubles per night. In other regions you can find hotel yurts.

Transport is in order only in the capital, but in the regions it is of course a wasteland. There is essentially no transport, but this is a joy for lovers of hitchhiking. Cars stop very willingly, but with everything else there are several disadvantages. Firstly, not every driver knows Russian and English language. Secondly, in remote areas of Mongolia there is very little traffic, you can wait for a car for several hours and it is not a fact that it will stop. Thirdly, the roads are a problem; in the provinces there aren’t even any, just crushed sand.

Kharkhorin, once the capital of the Mongolian civilization, was named Karakorum in the distant 13th century. Now Kharkhorin looks like a large village. Old village with ruins in the area. A huge phallus is striking, directed towards the ravine. Surprisingly, this is a natural attraction that evokes lustful thoughts.

If you want to stay in a yurt, you don’t have to do it. The whole secret is that the Mongols are hospitable people, they themselves will invite you to the yurt, feed you and give you tea. Of course, if they like you. Mongols love meat very much, there is plenty of it here. Now, vegetarians will have a hard time here, because the entire kitchen is filled with meat from a variety of animals.

The nights are very cold, if the thermometer shows +30’C during the day, then get ready for it to be cold at night. Therefore, warm clothes will obviously not be superfluous. If suddenly, you don’t want to carry an extra suitcase with you, then we recommend going to any market and buying warm clothes, the prices will please you.

Cuisine of Mongolia

• Dried meat borts. Small strips of cattle or camel meat, dried in the shade. The night cold removes water, the meat retains its beneficial properties.
• Tsusan Khiam (translated as blood sausage). The sheep is gutted by separating its intestines and pouring its own blood into them, adding flour, onions and salt along the way. Cook for 15 minutes and it's ready.
• Doortur, a roughly similar preparation with blood sausage, except that it is a sheep's stomach, kidneys, or heart.
• Kumis is a famous dairy product not only among the Mongols, but also among the Buryats. It is made from mare's milk.
• Aruul is a local cottage cheese that can be stored for a whole year without losing its properties. As a rule, it is prepared from camel meat. Goat or sheep milk.
• Buzy is a traditional dish of Mongolian cuisine. These are such big manta rays. First you need to bite off the top of the buz, drink the broth, then eat it, so it is considered correct to eat them.
• Khushur, resembles a cheburek. The meat filling is boiled in lamb fat. The only spice is salt.

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RTPYUYFBFSH LPNNEOFBTYY (2)

Travel to Mongolia

We have been planning to go to the Mongolian Altai for a long time. Many members of our a team of 8 people had their own interest there. The expedition was planned to endSeptember – early October. It was decided to go in two minibusessah-SUVs. We drew up a route using the map and calculated the cost...

As agreed, meet everyone early in the morning on September 24thle monument to the leader on the centralNoah area of ​​the village. Kosh-Agach – district centerra Gorny Altai. Loaded luggage andmoved to the border checkpoint "Tashanta." Each car has 4 peoplecenturies, personal belongings, camp equipmentnie, products. 45 km from Kosh-Agach to"Tashants" drove through almost withoutturns and climbs. Around onlyautumn steppe and clear silhouettes of the ridgeand Sailyugem on the horizon.

Everything at the new Russian customs“grown-up”: all the luggage, like in aereport, passed through x-rayinstallation, check passports andthe cars themselves. But everything goes bybusinesslike, quickly and clearly. To touristsspecial treatment at customsoften with surprise: what is there in MongoLii, should I do something? Taking into account fillingall customs papers proceduretook no more than 2.5 hours. (Necessarycan I have international passport with monGol visa and international carsmobile rights.)

At the “Tashanta” kilometer-long tablethere are no bovs anymore. But the road is quite decentNaya. About 20 km more traction with constanta rapid climb - and we are on the vergeDurbet-Daba valley pass (2481 m),who greeted us coldlydownward wind. Half-collapseda border post house tied upby the thin, thin Mukhtar. On the border, on notlarge dirty concrete plazasparingly, two pillars stand lonelyka – red-green and blue-brownvyy, symbolizing the statenew borders of Russia and Mongolia. Not youwalking out of the car, they showed documents,and the barrier was raised.

WITH once beyond the Russian borderthe falt is over. Not a centimeteron the Mongolian side! Entrancewe press to the new customs termlu. The gate is locked. We are like a lawmakerLovely foreigners are waiting patiently.After some time a mon came upgoal in a gauze bandage on his face andKami explained that we need to take a detourthis new complex is steep fromspit of the mountain. If it weren't for this man, thenwould have waited until dark.The old customs house is called "Ulan"Bayshint" ("red yurt").

Terminal looks more like a grain collection pointa completely ruined collective farm. To customsnot without any hassles, arrange for usAre any papers in Mongolian?ke, and we moved on.On the first bridge near the lake. DunshigNuur charged us for travel (up toHorn duty 1500 tugriks plustransport tax 6000 tugriks pereach minibus). Explainedthat this money will be used for maintenanceroads. But it’s clear that no one canand never contained it.

The roads are here - this is exactly what is called directionleniyami: several tens of parallelsgentle knurled ruts running inone direction and invariably similarlocated on passes and near bridges. Edacue 20-lane Mongolian highway.You have to be extremely careful with itnom: any inconspicuous branchcan easily lead into that one at duskrush to some lonely stallschu. The road is broken by heavy trucksKami and UAZ (soil - hard clayon with a stone), our speed is even fromrelatively flat areas are rarely exceeded 35–40 km/h.

The front axle is notturned on, since the road went to the mainnom downhill Areas with crushed stone, dogcom and even with large stones mashaWe overcame without much effort.But 1.5 hours before the sun startedhiding behind the low ridges, weWe drove only 30 km. Cars meetingrarely. Mostly it was hardold trucks and fuel tankers from Russiaski numbers. From local cars - tomostly old UAZ cars.

Already at dusk we passed the townTsagan-Nuur – small one-storya village with ruins of farms and sheds.Having decided to set up a bivouac, we encounteredproblem: there were a lot of flat places, butthe whole soil is strewn with quite largestones, and set up the tent so thatIt would be difficult to sleep comfortably. Yes and“strained” with water. It's almost darkthey drove into the valley of a dry riverKhara-Magnay-Gol and started betting patches.

They quickly boiled tea on gasand, judging that “the morning is wiser than the eveningher”, went to bed under the low black one,strewn with a scattering of brightest goldsbright stars in the sky of Mongolia.In the morning we felt thatThis is what an autumn Mongolian dawn is like. GasI was frozen in the cylinders and didn’t want to goroar at full strength. Finally from behind the mountainthe sun came out and everyone started movingfaster. Together we broke up camp andour little caravan moved awayshe. They immediately started datingruined mounds. (Back then wewe didn’t know how many of them there would be on our way.)

We are driving along the bottom of a dry valley, whichI am surrounded by low mountains.Here is the Obotyn-Daba pass (2643 m).A cold, almost burning air is blowingter. On the pass itself there is gravelyes stones - the famous obo. Nearthere are a lot of broken homemade productsnew crutches. The road ahead ispractically constantly going downwards, to the sidewell, the center of the westernmost aimag -Bayan-Ulegey. Birds are almost invisiblebut the local marmots haven’t gone to bed yetand fearlessly stand along the road. Pochyou met a few near the city itselfgreat herd of horses.

P upon entering the city at the firstask the fallen taxi driverIs there a way to the travel agency “Canat”Tour". In a nice one-story officewe met with a cafe almost in the city centerThey made you feel very welcome. While we're ghouls As we walked around the city, Canat Tour employees promptly arranged for us registration and a pass to the national park. Bayan-Ulegey - by our standards,rather a large village. But in the centerthere is a market, a post office with the Internet, nolarge hotels, cafes, museums and otherWhat are the attributes of the city?

There is also a cellular connection. First of all we visited the bazaar. Onon the street there is a whole line ofmotorcycles – red “Izha” and old"Uralov". Guys in yellow are sitting on themconstruction helmets. First thought:biker party. But it turned out that thisordinary taxis. They go wherever you wanther heart desires, even to Ulaanbaatar. NotIn the distance there are more serious taxis:mostly UAZs of various designstions and degrees of preservation.

Apparently they didn't have to undergo a technical inspectionnever die. Many people have these tires,that it’s not just the cord sticking out. Neverthelesson the windshields there are signs “Barnast., Ust-Kamenogorsk, Pavlodar,"Astana". Next to the taxi - movenew “exchange offices”: the same hundredold cars with stickers on their foreheadshigh glass with banknotes: rosSiysk rubles, Kazakhstani tensge, Chinese yuan, American dollars.

Most market goodslaid out directly on the ground or on a cartton boxes; mostly Chineseth production. Behind a small computerin the southern hall they stand right on the streetbilliard tables (about 20), andgender, including 8–10 year olds,chases balls with excitement. A bit further,on the next street, right on the dustypiles of sheep skins are laid out on the ground,yaks and other livestock. Right next door -butchered animal carcasses.We returned to the travel agency office. Prikyzeros, that diesel fuel for the entire route to usnot enough, and buying at the local marketseveral Chinese canisters filled them under the neck.

Towards evening, whenyes, the documents were ready, we left forside of Sagsay Gol.Even while preparing for the expeditiontion we read many reports. Alltheir authors recommended taking withfight of a local guide. We didn'tignore the advice and do not regret it.Togoo Tsedenbal came with us. Unitythe real difficulty was that hedidn't speak Russian or English at allLiyski. But he explained himself well so farzahski. Due to overload of machinesWe couldn’t get a driver, but from the TurksChinese “interpreters” turned out to be among usonly Andrey Yurchenkov.

ABOUT five famous mongolian"comb" (road with deepruts and potholes). For some reasonIn some areas it shakes so much that even the guideThe power booster doesn't help and the steering wheel is beechviolently knocks it out of your hands, at the same timeright turn and wipers are turned onki." If we were driving UAZs, thenSurely something would have fallen offthe very first kilometers. We only havesteep climb to the Modong Ho passShoyotiin-Davaa (2384 m) by the car, onflying onto a boulder, the protection came offcrankcase (crankcase is a container for vehiclescar oil).

How could they, under manipulated with a sledgehammer, tied with a rope(no wire can be found there) and it’s already hardwe moved further into the river valleySagsay-Gol. Behind the village of Sagsay,driving across the river bridge, we camped onbank near a lonely larch. Undergeneral “Hurray!” raised the flags of Russia,Kazakhstan, Mongolia and drank tothe beginning of the expedition. Today we passed or only 114 km.

The whole next day you can call it mountainous: continuous climbspasses and plateaus.

Modon-KhoshoyotiynDaba (2384 m), Achagardag-Daba (2698 m),lake Khar Nuur (2493 m)… Bare all aroundlifeless rocks, solid stonesny placers. Classic maddersediments left by ancient iceno one There is practically no water. Nezawe approached the post nationallyof the park "Altai Tavan Bogd" ("Altai Tavan Bogd"). Large Mongolian yurt,outbuildings. For now aboutverified our permissions, invitedinside the yurt. It seemed like it was waiting for us there whether.

Hot tea with milk, kurt (saltdried sheep cheese), erimshik(dried cottage cheese), kaymak (thick mixturetana) and many other local treatsny. The yurt is clean, neat, notthere is a Chinese TV on a large chest of drawersvisor, carpets on the walls, animal skins,stuffed birds. Eat, drink, paywe said goodbye to our hospitable hostsevami - and “on horses.”Suspicion on mountain roadsbut often began to come across caps and bezels Bolki.

Passengers usually lose themtrucks loaded with yurts andwe eat our belongings. Moreover, the luggage is muchbigger than the car itself. And on ver.the nomads themselves sit on this mountainki with the kids. Often foundsemi-knocked down trucks thatlocal drivers are trying to repairsit right on the side of the dustyexpensive And next to them they stand no less7–10 passengers. They're coming for the carsnumerous herds of rams, goats,sarlykov (as the locals calledyut yaks), horses, amazingly shaggycows, camels.

These are the localswander down to winter pastures. And weLet's go up! It's getting a littleI feel uncomfortable at the thought of a possible dreamge and ice on the passes. But in the mountainsmany yurts are still white in the villages, and we are stillnot alone. In the Godon-Gol valley there is quitecrowded: every now and then there are nolarge camps of 2–5 yurts per racestanding several hundred meters eachfrom friend. Near the bridge over the river there iseven a gas station: a tank buried in the groundon and one mechanical column.

In its free sale of A-80 gasoline at a pricea little higher than the city one. The owner is pleasedposes with excitement. Demonstrates workspeakers without removing the lit one from your mouthcigarettes. But there is no diesel fuel. Good thatWe stocked up in advance.Already in the evening we are approaching the villagethe outpost standing at odds with China, standing onshore beautiful lake Dayan-Nuur.Further along the southeastern coasthectares of lakes won’t let us in. It's time to putcamp. Not far away on the mountainsideden is a small forest.

There is no water, but but there is firewood, and you can at least a littlego to shelter from the cold wind. Byethe guys set up camp, the three of usWe went to the lake. It was getting dark. Quick timesshook fishing gear to tieWell, what is the famous Mongolian?sky fishing. The fish did not force itselflong wait: almost the fifth timethe cast took a pretty decent bitegrayling size. Until dark, minutesfor 25, managed to catch a couple moreke fish. The speedometer shows 125 km – ours.day trip.

U It started with strong winds. Neitherwhat kind of fishing is not necessary anddream: there's a storm on the lakefoam from steep wave crests. Cloudsdust rises into the air. Occasionallygusts of wind throw handfuls ofno coarse coastal sand. Honeywe slowly approached south coast osera Khurgan-Nuur (2072 m). Solid kaalternating terraces, large acute anglesrocky boulders, wetlands,

fords through small mountain rivers.

I came across a very picturesquegroup of local residents on the willowpeople loaded with yurts, beds,barrels and other household belongings.Here, finally, are the first ancient burialsopinions that we read about in the reports.As if on command, everyone took out the camerary. Two small Turkic moundsrectangular shape. Ancient Turki for the funeral ceremony afterfuneral built a kind of temple:a fence was laid out on the ground in the form square.

Possibly a square forema symbolized the homeland, whichthe Turks represented it in the form of a square,at the corners of which the gates are locatedgi. Near each grave there is a statue -stone woman, and then two rowsvertically standing small boatssmall columns going somewhereinto the distance, into the steppe. A UAZ pulled up withlocal numbers. Passenger of the eyea middle-aged French woman began to talkwho has been living here under the monastery for 25 yearsGol name Tunga.

Writes books about Mongolia. At night we get up in the skynoise in a larch forest, protectingprotecting us from the strong wind. Ourscurrent mileage is 68 km.Thermometer in the car in the morning showsIt's minus 11°C, but the wind has almost died down,and the bright mountain sun is shining. Target ontoday's crossing - lakeKhoton-Nuur. Soon there will be a priest on the way againis given a border post. Those who came out onI'll meet the officers, it's nice, it's nicecontact us, check documents.

After another 500 m we approach the bridgethrough the Syrgal channel between the lakesKhoton-Nuur and Khurgan-Nuur in the zi regionMovki Shargalga. This is where we really arewe just learned what Mongolianfishing! Almost every castthe tackle was lucky: a big one was caught,weighing up to 1 kg, grayling. The fish was chasingany spinner and often got caught thensideways, then gills, then belly. Placescool boys without any special tricks, justthrew a piece of thick fishing line with a baretee at the end and also not leftwere left without any prey.

Half an hour later,Shiv that we have enough fish for dinner, butstill catch it for future use and, most importantly,You won’t be able to save it, let’s move on.As a parting gift, the boys were given a 100m race.fishing line and a couple of small spinners.The bridge over the duct is made of...larch, and as nastyala used poles from the same sheetwreaths with a diameter of up to 10 cm. But oursThe cars passed without any problems. Razgowe work as hard as we can, thunderouslyon the bridge and with acceleration the highwe nod towards the steep sandy oppositefalse northern bank of the channel.

Dahl Our path lies north-weston the shore of Lake Khoton-Nuur to the veryits northern end. There, according toboor, there are numerous rockdrawings. And while alone I went tosearches for petroglyphs, others again raceCovered the spinning rods.Snowy peaks of Mongolof the Altai were reflected in the mirrorny waters of the lake. Fishing this time

was not so successful: far into the water it is impossible to enter, and the gear is oftenclung to the rocky bottom.

Having caught a dozen graylings and tearing off a couple of bleuSep, we decided to go fishing todayespecially since the day's catch will ensurebaked us a good dinner. We're backour friends. Their excursion was wheremore successful: on steep slopesmountains they found hundreds of petroglyphs: inmostly images of animals. OcheA rare camp was set up near thethat wintering in the lower reaches of the Ut-Khai Rivertone-Gol. They quickly built a fireplace,covering fire from the wind and on coals baked fish.

Spent the night in woodenwintering buildings. On this day we traveled only 28 km. The morning again “pleased” with its"freshness". Until the sun came upWell, everyone was wearing warm jackets orwrapped in blankets. Conducted an auditdiesel fuel. It looks like there won't be enough forway to the valley of the Tsagan-Gol river, to the mountainsto the new junction Tavan-Bogd-Uul (4374 m).It's a pity... Well, the roads are not at stakeare worried. We'll meet again with the sacred our peaks!

It was decided to returnthrough the passes east of the lakes inthe valley of the Kobdo-Gol river and through the villagelok Tsengel return to Ulegey. Byon the map this road seemed more prowalkable. During preparation for expeditions, sitting at home and using the name maptea route, we planned in no wayat least 150 km per day. In realbut it turned out to be much less...On the way back it got rough againindulge yourself in fishing in the channel between between the lakes.

D the road through the passes becamealready almost familiar. Still the samestones, stones, stones... Placeswhere the roads meet, the wilderness is cut outside track. I'm glad for the hundredth timeThey said they hired a local guide.Even with extensive experience in mountain riding,sometimes they were surprised how unmistakable he wasbut indicated exactly the track along which Roy has to go. The day was unusually “harvest”nom" to historical landmarkstelnosti. On this day we saw noone dozen stone women.

But the pain The biggest surprise was the huge moundsin the Mogoit tract. Diameter of someof which was more than 50 m, and the height was up toreached 4 m. We started to go downalong the valley of the Mogoytyn-Gol river and,driving the bridge over the river. Kobdo-Gol, stand upcamped near a small wintering area. And the vecherum solemnly celebrated birthdayDeniya Alexander Lebedev. Todayalmost a “record” - 61 km.This night was perhaps the mostcold the entire trip. In the morningThe thermometer showed -15°C.

Won't warm you up even hot coffee with Altaibalm. We assembled the camp andWe drove along the Kobdo-Gol river. Doroha tolerable, but still acceleratedoes not work. Having traveled kilometers5, on the river bank we saw an onboard"ZIL-131" with a dozen cheerful peoplein the back and a dented "UAZ" - "orderlyku". It turned out that the UAZ from AmericaKan tourists tried to wadecross a deep river and, as we canbut as expected, it stalled in the middlebeds. Fortunately, in this place there is an eye"ZIL-131" was installed.

Tourists get a lotthey were lucky: they wouldn’t have gotten out on their own, butwe would hardly be able to help, sincefrom the shore it was about 20 m at depthnot up to a meter. And we don’t even have a fordknew. From the cracks of the UAZ you are stillwater was pouring. There were scattered aroundsuits, wet clothes and other luggageristov. Cheerful passengers of ZILnoisily loaded into the back and briskly,dispersing the waves of Kobdo, they rolled back to the left bank. After 43 km and two hours of travel I enteredWe're in the village. Tsengel. On the centralsquares are still the same dust and the same sarbasts. But there's a real thing in the storeMongolian beer!

The road from Tsengel towards the city of Ulegay walks through the Mushgiragiyin passDaba (2251 m). We see no owls aheadThis is a clear car trail.Obviously not from UAZ. Through somewe meet an old Mitsubishi Galant" withfeet. They stopped and asked ifDo I need help? From under the car fromThey told me everything was fine. I'm jealouseat the fearlessness of local drivers.Ule is already visible from the Haar-Daba passgay. We finally made it through the dayas much as 164 km! How we returned home! Zivilization. Although broken, the asphaltshops, gas stations, hotel. True, th there is no hot water.

I on the dark morning of the next dayheading to the village. Sagsay-Gol,in the vicinity of which tomorrowa beautiful holiday beginsKutchi. Dozens of Kazakh hunters withbirds of prey (golden eagles, sokolami) gather in the foothills and mouthscompetitions are heavenly. We are met andplaced in Camp Blue Wolf. Come to us in the evening guys from Israel, Jordan are comingnia, England, with which we are familiarcelebrated in the city of Ulegey, as well as friends fromGorno-Altaisk. Festive again dinner.

This time it's my birthdayAndrey Yurchenkov. And how many yearsin a row, again on the road, again with a new my friends... Among the spectators at the festival there are manyth tourists and children. Schoolchildren in aksharp jackets, adults in garbto their national clothes. Along thecar racks local craftsmen spinningthey laid out their souvenirs on the feltry. Among the sellers, a couple stands outyoung people are clearly not Asiannationality with a small child.

It turned out that this is a family from the USA, whoRaya has been living in Mongolia for three years andmakes a living makingeating and selling souvenirs.Towards evening we decided to returnto Ulegey. In order not to waste time,drove south, to Lake Tolbo-Nuur, towhich is described by everyone who is hereshaft. It is famous for its large numbera lot of fish and rare birds. Already incomplete darkness, afraid of getting stuck in the bahtpake (mud mud), we set up camp. Utrum turned out to be more or lessI can’t find a comfortable place to campmaybe some 600–700 m....

The first rays of the sun timidly shineThe calm waters of Tolbo-Nuur are peaceful.Despite the cold, photographers are already outsidework. The rest are a small teamwe went fishing. 2 km fromAttractive rolling pins are visible from the camp.Although grayling took it, it was not so active,like on the Syrgal channel.We close the camp and, almost without waspshanging out in Ulegey, we go to the sideWell, the Russian border. This is already ours“old acquaintance” – Obo pass Tyn-Daba.

We leave a fewcoins in hopes of returning. Behindspent the night on the shore of a small lake tsa Danshig-Nuur. Woke up to the roar of heavy loadsVicks and fuel tankers, stretching for a hundredron border. Local posoadvised us to hurry up, since todaynyah Monday and after the weekend onthere is a long line at customs.Having lost half a day in line, I crossedwe reach the long-awaited border. We are va in Russia...

N Some tips. If you are travelingin your car, then to BayanUlegii are much more reliable onSay UAZ. You can clean your carpark in the parking lot.The Mongolian currency is tugriks.1 rub. equal to 45.6 tugriks. In Bayan-Ulegii diesel fuel is an examplebut 920 tugriks per 1 liter, A–80 – 780 tugriksricks for 1 l. There is no gasoline in the mountainseverywhere, and only A-80. Not preventtake engine cleaner with youand spare air and fuel filters.

In the cold season we canbut add antigel, because in the localdiesel fuel contains paraffin. Not preventand a second spare wheel. Tire service availableonly in Bayan-Ulegia. From constantdust is helped by wet wipes and eye drops. It is necessary to take into account the peculiarities ofGol roads. In this country onmost used transport –"UAZ" Russian and Chineseproduction and our ZIL-130,so the track is rolled under these ma tires.

If you want to traveldrive around Mongolia in your transport, you need to know that for “parquetnew jeeps this is quite serious new test. Don't leave yours unattendedthings. Be careful at customswe are neat, polite, calm,be patient, don't be fooledenticement, blackmail, extortion,do not take other people's luggage and passing passengers. Some Mongols speak Russian

Adygea, Crimea. Mountains, waterfalls, herbs of alpine meadows, healing mountain air, absolute silence, snowfields in the middle of summer, the murmuring of mountain streams and rivers, stunning landscapes, songs around the fires, the spirit of romance and adventure, the wind of freedom await you! And at the end of the route are the gentle waves of the Black Sea.