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Bolshiye Vyazemy. Estate "Big Vyazemy"

Former estate near Moscow Bolshie Vyazyomy is located about forty kilometers west of Moscow, right behind Golitsyn. On the left side of the highway you can clearly see the park and the old manor house.

The estate, located on the old Smolensk road, became a witness and participant in many important events Russian history, she took Boris Godunov, False Dmitry I, Marina Mnishek, Kutuzov, Napoleon under her roof...

At the end of the 16th century, Bolshie Vyazemy was the country residence of Boris Godunov. It is not known exactly when the estate fell into the hands of the all-powerful boyar, but the first mention of this fact dates back to 1585. Godunov loved his estate near Moscow and furnished it beautifully and thoroughly. Under him, a large wooden palace, church, numerous outbuildings, orchards were laid out, a pond with a stone dam was dug on the Vyazemka River.

The wooden palace burned down in 1618, when Polish troops were approaching Moscow, but the magnificent Godunov Church Life-Giving Trinity, later renamed Preobrazhenskaya, has been preserved.

The four-pillar, five-domed temple stands on a high basement and is surrounded on three sides by covered two-tier galleries.

The walls of the building are made of white stone, and the crowning parts and galleries are made of brick.

Frescoes from the late 16th century have been preserved inside.

In 1807, six-year-old Nikolai Pushkin, the poet’s younger brother, was buried near the eastern wall of the temple.

Next to the church, on a high terrace, there is a belfry that is completely unique for the Moscow region.

By the middle of the 19th century, the Godunov belfry had become very dilapidated, and they already intended to dismantle it. Fortunately, the owner of Big Elms, Prince Golitsyn, did not allow reprisals against historical monument, however, as compensation, he allowed it to be attached to ancient temple new bell tower. This newly built bell tower was dismantled during restoration work in the 1950s.

The picturesque group of temple buildings is surrounded by a replica of an 18th-century fence.

Adjacent to one of the corners of the fence is a small clergy house.

After the death of Godunov, Bolshie Vyazemy was considered a palace village. In 1694, Peter I granted the former Godunov estates to his tutor, Prince Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn. In 1766, his great-grandson Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn became the owner of the estate, who in the 1770s/1780s. built a new manor complex, which, with some changes, has survived to this day.

The first pair of brick buildings were erected in 1771: guest and kitchen wings.

Standing a little further away, another two-story, outbuilding-like building has nothing to do with the old estate; it was built in the 1930s for the School of Arts.

In 1784, the main manor house, built in the style of French classicism, rose between the wings.

The house facing the old pond is especially good.

At the top of the attics are cartouches with the Golitsyn family coat of arms.

Some outbuildings of the estate have been preserved behind the church. The large horse yard of the late 18th century has been greatly damaged by alterations, and is now being restored.

There is a museum in the main manor house. It must be said that this museum is very young, it appeared in the late 1980s, and owes its existence to enthusiastic devotees. The original interiors of the estate have not been preserved, and museum workers had to literally collect strings from the world to create the exhibition. In the halls of the main house, museum staff tried to partially reconstruct Golitsyn’s rooms. Some of the premises contain exhibits telling about the history of the estate and famous people connected with it in one way or another.

The formal dining room features furniture and tableware from the 18th/19th centuries.

Behind the dining room there is a round rotunda room, from which there was access to the garden.

In old photographs you can see what the rooms looked like at the beginning of the 20th century.

The main bedroom is furnished with light wood furniture.

There were two libraries in the house. On the ground floor there was a collection of foreign books. In 1812, after the Battle of Borodino, Kutuzov first lived in this large room, and the day after his departure, Napoleon slept in the same library, on the same sofa.

On the second floor under the Golitsyns there was a library of Russian literature.

All rooms contain cute household items, interior items, and portraits.

In the former living room on the second floor there is a permanent exhibition “The World of Childhood in a Noble Estate”.

In one wing, already renovated, there is a museum ticket office, a kiosk with a good selection of historical and local history literature, and exhibition halls.

Also in the outbuilding are works by sculptor Nina Konenkova donated to the museum.

And of course, part of the museum exhibition is dedicated to Pushkin, who visited Bolshie Vyazemy and spent a lot of time in neighboring Zakharov as a child.

The village of Zakharovo, located two kilometers from Bolshie Vyaz, was bought in 1804 by the grandmother of the future poet Maria Alekseevna Hannibal. Every summer, from May to October, for six years the entire Pushkin family spent in Zakharov. The Pushkins also lived here during the winter of 1808/1809.

From the estate of Pushkin's time, all that remains in Zakharov now is a huge pond and a few centuries-old trees; everything else in this very young museum is completely new.

In 1904, the then owner of Zakharov built a new home on the foundation of the old manor house. In 1993, during restoration work (!!!), this house burned down. Historians and restorers were unable to find any drawings, drawings, or even verbal descriptions of the house of M.A. Hannibal. Therefore, when recreating the estate, the architects took as a basis the standard design of an 18th-century manor house. In 1999, for the 200th anniversary of Pushkin’s birth, in just three months the “house of M. A. Hannibal” was rebuilt in Zakharov and a museum was opened.

The Zakharovsky house is of very modest size, two-story, the second floor is low, mezzanine.

On the ground floor of the house, in the front rooms, the interiors of Pushkin's time were recreated.

The rooms of Zakharov's house are small. In the most spacious room, the windows of which open onto a terrace with a columned portico, the furnishings of the Great Living Room are presented.

The furniture and interior items, of course, have nothing to do with the Pushkin-Hannibal family; they were collected from various museum funds.

In a small corner room it is shown what the office of the mistress of the estate might look like.

In the corridor there is a small collection of old chests.

Another, also very modest in size, corner room with an alcove is a reconstruction of a children's playroom and classroom.

Here you can see a desk and visual teaching aids.

A somewhat larger room is reserved for the dining room.

And finally, in the last room of the exhibition, as a tribute to the memory of Arina Rodionovna, objects of peasant life are collected.

Of course, it’s a pity that there are no memorial items in the exhibition. Nevertheless, the museum gives visitors the opportunity to find out how poor noble families lived - and there were incomparably more of them than representatives of high-profile aristocratic families with huge fortunes - on their estates near Moscow, Kaluga, Pskov, Penza and other estates.

Of course, Alexander Sergeevich himself believed that “Tsarskoye Selo is our Fatherland,” however, in 1830, on the eve of his wedding, the poet went not just anywhere, but specifically to Zakharovo. Apparently, on the eve of dramatic life changes, my soul demanded to take a sentimental journey to childhood.

The poet also visited Bolshie Vyazemy, which at one time inspired him both “Boris Godunov” and “The Queen of Spades”, the prototype of the heroine of which was Princess Natalya Petrovna Golitsyna, who often lived in her son’s estate.

It is logical that at the end of the 19th century the idea of creating a Pushkin reserve in this corner of the Moscow region was born, but only a century later, thanks to a group of enthusiasts, the State Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve of A. S. Pushkin appeared on the territory of Bolshaya Vyaz and Zakharov. Yes, in both estates there are a lot of remakes and very few truly “Vyazma-Zakharov” exhibits, however, the museum gives another opportunity to plunge into our history. In addition, both estates regularly host themed parties, concerts, lectures, and meetings with writers and artists.

The Bolshie Vyazemy estate is an architectural and artistic ensemble of the 16th–19th centuries, a former royal, boyar and princely residence. It is located in the village of the same name in the Odintsovo district, near the town of Golitsyno. Together with the Zakharovo estate, it is part of the State Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve A.S. Pushkin, created in 1987.

Immediately upon entering we see this bust of the hero of the occasion. A few kilometers from here is the family estate of the Hannibals “Zakharovo”, where young Sasha lived with Arina Rodionovna, so one can assume that he visited this estate, say, to steal apples or spy on the bathing peasant women there, the skank.

The central building of the estate is the palace of the princes Golitsyn, built in the second half of the 18th century.

During the retreat of the Russian army to Moscow, Kutuzov and Napoleon both spent the night in this house, and in the same bed, with an interval of exactly one night. Not on the same night, as someone might think, but a day later.

The word "Vyazyomy" most likely comes from the word "viscous", because both the river and the pond here are very muddy.

At the end of 1584, Tsar Fedor I Ioannovich donated the village of Nikolskoye-Vyazemy to Boris Godunov, who began large-scale construction on this land and built the first wooden palace.

And it was precisely in this place that the Russian and French armies stopped after the Battle of Borodino.

And in Peaceful time In addition to A.S. Pushkin, famous writers L.N. Tolstoy, N.V. Gogol, and V.Ya. Bryusov stayed here.

Here's an interesting detail - a sundial. So you don't miss the afternoon snack.

24 linden trees are planted around the perimeter of the circle, and in the center of the circle there is a pole, its shadow points to the tree corresponding to a certain hour of time.

At the end of the 17th century, Peter the Great granted the estate to Prince Boris Golitsyn.

The Golitsyns lived here until the revolution.

Here is the main one, Governor General Dmitry Golitsyn, hero of the Patriotic War of 1812 and owner of the estate from 1813 to 1844.

And the manor house in Bolshie Vyazemy, which has survived to this day, was built in 1784 by the great-grandson of Prince Boris Golitsyn, Colonel Nikolai Mikhailovich Golitsyn.

The only cafe nearby.

Stuffed cabbage rolls from Arina Rodionovna are something delicious!

Probably, signs like this were placed everywhere especially for Pushkin, so that he wouldn’t get confused about where to buy tickets to the estate. If anyone is interested, I can say that the toilet here is very clean, and I didn’t find any signs like “Sasha was here” on the walls.

At the end of the 16th century. Bolshie Vyazemy belonged to Boris Godunov, who built a church here with a Pskov-type belfry. According to legend, the Vyazemsk church was built in the same year as the bell tower of Ivan the Great. It is believed that the model for the church in Bolshie Vyazemy was the Archangel Cathedral of the Moscow Kremlin.

During the Time of Troubles, False Dmitry lived in the estate and Marina Mnishek stayed with his retinue.

What a miracle this Transfiguration Church is next to the estate!

I have never seen such a bell tower anywhere else. Completely flat. It's unclear how they got there.

As everywhere in Rus', there are unmarked graves on the territory of the temple.

Near the temple lie the ashes of Nikolai Sergeevich Pushkin, who died in 1807 at the age of six, the younger brother of the great Russian poet. Alexander himself, with his grandmother, Maria Alekseevna Hannibal, and his sister Olga, went to the Transfiguration Church from Zakharov, where there was no church of their own, and his first spiritual impressions and experiences are undoubtedly connected with the Bolshevyazemsk Church.

And finally, a few photos from inside the manor house. In one of these rooms, Pushkin met his future wife Natalya Goncharova, who had just started going out into the world.

The owner of the estate, Natalya Petrovna Golitsyna, who became the prototype of the old countess in The Queen of Spades, was the mother of the bride at the wedding of Pushkin and Goncharova.

We know how it all ended. So indirectly, the Bolshie Vyazemy estate played a fatal role in Pushkin’s life.

Bolshie Vyazemy is a large urban-type settlement located 20 kilometers from the city of Odintsovo in the Moscow region.

First of all, Vyazemy is associated with the name of Pushkin. Alexander Sergeevich spent his entire childhood, right up to entering the lyceum, in the Zakharovo estate, located next to Bolshiye Vyazemy. Zakharovo belonged to the poet’s maternal grandmother, Maria Alekseevna Hannibal. It was in Zakharovo and Vyazemy that Pushkin first encountered Russian nature, the life of landowners and peasants, and here he began to write his first poems.

There was no church on Maria Alekseevna’s estate, and the Pushkins went to Vyazemy for church services. At one of the balls held in Vyazemy, the poet first met Natalya Goncharova.

Two estates are reflected in the poem “Eugene Onegin”. Zakharovo became the prototype of the Larins’ estate, and Bolshie Vyazemy became the Onegin’s house. The palace of Golitsyn, the owner of the estate in Bolshiye Vazemy, is called the House of the Queen of Spades. Pushkin never hid the fact that the prototype of the main character of the story was Princess N.P. Golitsyna, mother of the owner of the Vyazema estate. The history of this estate is connected not only with the Golitsyn family, but also with other famous families. With which ones?.. You will find out by reading the text to the end.

Bolshie Vyazemy - history

Now Bolshie Vyazemy takes second place in Odintsovo district by the number of industrial enterprises. But was it always like this? Why is Bolshie Vyazemy attractive for sightseeing tours? Let's go back four and a half centuries.

In Russia they learned about Bolshiye Vyazemy in 1556. Here one could stop in order to change horses and rest before arriving in Moscow - not yet an estate, but a Yamsk station. Bolshiye Vyazemy was the last stop on the Smolensk road before arriving in the capital. Here, meetings were often scheduled with foreign ambassadors who were not given the honor of being received at a luxurious reception in the royal chambers.

Perhaps it was political importance that played a decisive role in the fact that in 1586 Bolshie Vyazemy was granted to Boris Godunov. He immediately started construction at the pit station.

Big Vyazemy is changing before our eyes. A manor house, St. Nicholas Church, and the Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord grew up. Pawned St. John the Theologian Monastery, building under construction trade fairs. Boris Godunov surrounds all this splendor with a wooden wall with five watchtowers. Bolshiye Vyazemy is essentially turning into a fortress.

During the Time of Troubles, Bolshiye Vyazemy became country palace False Dmitry. In 1606, Maria Mniszech stopped here. She brought with her a retinue of thousands and stayed in the palace for only a short time. And after her departure, a strong fire broke out in the Bolshie Vyazemy estate, destroying most estates. The Time of Troubles was generous with uprisings, which often ended in fires. In one of them, Boris Godunov’s tower burned down...

When Mikhail Fedorovich, the founder of the Romanov dynasty, came to power, in 1618 he assigned the Bolshie Vyazemy estate to the palace department.

The next few decades were not marked by any important events. The buildings of Big Elm are slowly beginning to wither away.

In 1694, thanks to Peter the Great, the estate became the property of Boris Golitsyn and since then Bolshie Vyazemy has been forever associated with the Golitsyn family. And, although the associate of the first Russian emperor already had the comfortable estate of Dubrovitsa, he put a lot of effort into the revival of Vyazem. Peter I himself came to Bolshie Vyazemy only twice - in 1701 and 1705.

In Bolshiye Vyazemy, in addition to the manor house, there was a cloth factory, two mills, a horse farm and a dam. The village consisted of 30 households. At the end of the 18th century, a palace was built here, around which beautiful park. I loved to walk along it A.S. Pushkin, arriving in Vyazemy.

An interesting fact is that in 1812 both Kutuzov and Napoleon stayed in Bolshie Vyazemy. No documentary evidence has been preserved, but they say that they could spend the night in the same room with a difference of only a day!

Pavel I and N.V. also visited Bolshiye Vyazemy. Gogol, L.N. Tolstoy.

The last owner of the estate, Dmitry Borisovich Golitsyn, established a suburban village . The beautiful, truly Russian area fell in love with the Russian aristocracy.

But the revolution came, and Vyazemy turned into a state farm. The manor house houses a shelter for street children. Subsequently, a dozen different institutions replaced each other in the Bolshie Vyazemy estate: a sanatorium, a parachute school, a tank school, and various institutes.

About 60 valuables were taken from the estate, among which were an engraving depicting the Golitsyn family tree and family jewelry. Unique family books have been distributed to regional libraries.

What can you see when you come to Bolshiye Vyazemy from excursion tour?

It’s good that people have the habit of coming to their senses on time. At the end of the 1980s, local historians began to create a museum in Bolshie Vyazemy.

And in 1994, a Pushkin Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve, consisting of two estates - Zakharovo and Bolshiye Vyazemy. In the same year, the museum was awarded the title of State Museum-Reserve.

Now, when you come to Bolshiye Vyazemy on a one-day tour, you can see the palace and park ensemble, which has preserved elements of the 16th century, the Church of the Transfiguration, a palace with two wings, a belfry, several domestic buildings and a park of the 19th century.

The museum is very interesting, it presents a wide variety of exhibitions - there are even doll rooms and tin soldiers in 19th century uniforms. The interiors of the rooms, the uniforms, the portraits of the owners... It’s truly cozy here, you don’t want to leave.

In Zakharov there is a pond on the bank of which Pushkin loved to sit, choosing rhymes for words. The manor building has been completely restored and houses "museum of childhood" of the poet. Truly unique items telling about the culture of the 17th-19th centuries are stored here.

If you value the heritage we inherited from the best representatives of the Russian aristocracy, if you want to introduce your children to the history of Russia, inseparable from the history of individual people, you definitely need to go to Bolshie Vyazemy for the weekend. Walk along the alleys of the park, sit by the pond, visit exhibitions, see the original belfry and go to the temple... We can say with confidence that the Bolshiye Vyazemy estate will not disappoint and will be remembered for a long time.

Last minute tours in Russia

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Not far from Moscow, on the banks of the Vyazemka River, there is an old estate. It is famous as the former royal residence and poetic birthplace of A.S. Pushkin. On the territory of the estate several dozen monuments of Russian history and culture of the 16th - 19th centuries are collected: a palace, a temple, a park, outbuildings. The Bolshiye Vyazemy estate preserves a rich cultural heritage.

The fate of A. Pushkin is inextricably linked with it. Not far from Bolshie Vyazem, on his grandmother’s estate, the poet spent his childhood. Subsequently, the prototype of the estate repeatedly appeared on the pages of Pushkin’s works. In 1994, on the territory of the Bolshie Vyazemy and Zakharovo estates, the State Historical and Literary Museum-Reserve of A. S. Pushkin was created.

What to see

In the center of the estate stands the ancient Church of the Transfiguration. This is a beautiful white stone building, decorated with vertical towers, decorative openings and arches. The architecture of the Church of the Transfiguration turned out to be so unusual for its time that it gave rise to a new type of temple, now called Godunov. An elegant three-span belfry was built next to the church, dating back to the same time as the temple itself. The entire complex is surrounded by a beautiful brick fence. The Church of the Transfiguration is listed among the most valuable historical and artistic elements of the Bolshie Vyazemy estate.

Opposite the church there is a cozy park with access to a pond. Small paths divide it into even, neat segments. In the park you can see the monument to Alexander Pushkin, erected to commemorate the 200th anniversary of the poet’s birth. There is also a memorial stone laid here in honor of the Russian and French armies stopping at Bolshiye Vyazemy in 1812. A small boat station was built on the shore of the pond. The cost of renting a boat is 220 RUB/hour.

The Church of the Transfiguration is listed among the most valuable historical and artistic elements of the Bolshie Vyazemy estate.

At the same time as the park, the house-palace of Prince Golitsyn was founded. It was he who became the prototype of the estate of the famous rake Eugene Onegin. There is an interesting exhibition inside the palace. It tells about the life of the estate in Pushkin's times. It is known that the palace contained a huge library and archive with rare documents. But the interiors are much more interesting to explore with a guide.

Continuing the topic about. In the palace of the Vyazema estate there is a large exhibition dedicated to the Golitsyn family and the history of the estate since the 18th century. The main manor house was built in 1784 by Prince N.M. Golitsyn in the style of early French classicism. After Paul I and his sons visited the estate in 1797, the house began to be called the Palace. At different times, A.S. Pushkin, N.V. Gogol, M.P. Pogodin, M.I. Kutuzov, Napoleon, Paul I and many others visited the palace. During World War II, the headquarters of the Russian army was located here, and after its departure, French institutions were located here. Now in the exhibition you can see portraits of the owners of the estate, restored interiors of rooms, furniture and household items, many paintings and engravings of the 17th-19th centuries. Below is a photo tour of the Vyazema estate palace.
Photos are clickable, with geographical coordinates and linked to a Yandex map, 02.2016.

1. Scheme of museum exhibitions in the Vyazema estate palace

Dining room
2. Dining room

3. Portrait of Prince Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn (1654-1714), the first owner of Vyazem from the family of princes Golitsyn. Unknown artist, early 18th century, copy. It belonged to him

4. Portrait of Count G.P. Chernyshov) 1672-1745), grandfather of the prince. P.P.Golitsyna, 1st floor. 18 in; portrait of Count Z.G. Chernyshov (1722-1784), grandfather of the prince. P.P.Golitsyna, A.Roslen, 1770s; portrait of Countess E.A. Chernyshova (1715-1779), mother of the prince. N.P.Golitsyn, A.Roslen, 1776. Bottom right Prince A.M.Golitsyn (1723-1807), unknown. artist, 1780s. All portraits are copies

5. Prince N.F. Golitsyn, unknown artist, 1730s, copy

Salon (round living room)
6. Salon, from above Apostle Peter, unknown artist 17th century, Italy

8. Sleeping Ariadne, unknown sculptor, copy

9. View of the city of Pompeii, 1830, Italy, Rome, aquatint

10. Square with a fountain, 18th century, Western Europe, etching

11. Square with a fountain and two carriages, 18th century, Western Europe, etching

12. View of the Chausy Palace on the banks of the Seine, 1803, England, engraving

13. Fontainebleau

14. Salon. Madonna of the Sorrows, Guido Reni, 1630-1640, Italy

Boudoir
15. Boudoir, state bedroom of Prince N.M. Golitsyn

16. Palace and park ensemble, fragment, based on a drawing by F. Guarneri, 18th century, Italy, etching

17. Fountain of Apollo in Versailles, drawing and etching by J. Dankers, 18th century, France

18. Fountain of Ceres in Versailles, drawing and etching by J. Dankers, 18th century, France

19.

20. Demolition of the Bastille, kushe-son based on the drawing of the Sea, last quarter of the 18th century, France

Men's office
21. Estate office of the Moscow Governor-General, Prince. D.V. Golitsyn. Portrait of Prince D.V. Golitsyn (1771-1844), F.N. Riss, 1835, copy; portrait of Princess T.V. Golitsyna (1783-1841), F.N. Riss, 1835, copy; portrait of Emperor Nicholas I, unknown. artist, type of F. Kruger, 1850s, Russia

22. Gala reception on the occasion of the presentation of the book. Bust of D.V. Golitsyn on a malachite pedestal from the Moscow merchants, 19th century, engraving

23. View Bolshoi Theater in St. Petersburg, 19th century, engraving

24. The Descent of the Holy Spirit on the Apostles, Corneli, 574, etching

25. Seascape with fishing boats and fishermen, C. Vernet, author’s repetition of the 19th century

26. A sad procession to accompany the body of the late Sovereign Emperor Alexander I in Bose, 1825, Russia, paper, ink

Masonic Hall
27. Masonic Hall

28. Palace and park ensemble and cascade of fountains in Kassel, engraving by A. Speculus from a drawing by F. Guarneri, Italy, 18th century

29. Mercy of Samaritan, engraving by A. Bereznikov, Russia, turn of the 18th-19th centuries.

30. Portraits of famous masons

31. Masonic accessories: elements of vestments; diploma of the Masonic lodge "Palestine", issued to the book publisher A. Semyon in 1812 (in the center); sword in a sheath with knightly symbols, Western Europe, early 20th century.

Pink living room
32.

33. Lady against the background of Gothic ruins, unknown artist, Western Europe, 18th century.

Foreign library
34. Here September 11, 1812 M.I. Kutuzov’s office was located. Kutuzov's headquarters were located in the Vyazema estate on September 11 and 12, 1812. The exhibition in the foreign library is dedicated to the commanders of the Patriotic War of 1812

35.

36.

37. List of peasant warriors of the Moscow militia from the Vyazema estate, awarded in 1813 with the medal “In Memory of the Patriotic War of 1812.”

French hall
38. After the departure of the Russian army, September 12, 1812, the palace is occupied by I. Murat, Neapolitan king, together with the vanguard of the French army. On September 13, at 13:30, Emperor Napoleon arrives in Vyazemy in a carriage (he was sick and could not sit on a horse). Napoleon settled in the village of Borisovka, from where he left on the morning of September 14 and was already at Vorobyovy Gory at 10 o’clock. Throughout September and October, Vyazemy was on the main communication line of the Grand Army.