Mount Kachkanar and Shad Tchup Ling Monastery. Climbing to the Buddhist monastery of Shad Tchup Ling in the Urals Buddhist monastery of Shad Tchup Ling

This is a lift for cargo and building materials from the steepest section of the trail:

On the trail in good weather Yes, on weekends there are constantly pilgrims, curious and simply tourists passing through the monastery insofar as.

on the right in the hole - hens with chicks

Solar panels hang here and there on the walls. There is a bathhouse, they will also offer to take a steam bath in it if it is ready.

Water is taken from two clean lakes under the stones. This is a rarity and treasure at the top of the mountain.

Here - drinking

And here - for household needs:

an improvised aqueduct-pipeline is visible. Everything is thought out and convenient.

Vegetable garden: This is where we came out for the first time

So here they crumble extra rocks - they heat them up and hit them with a sledgehammer

They will not tear down the monastery for a quarry in the near future - either the economic crisis is to blame, or this is the way things are.

Pleasant and unusual place, is appropriate here regardless of whether you are a Buddhist or just good man. I'm glad I visited here again.

Eight kilometers from the city of Kachkanar, in the middle Sverdlovsk region, at an altitude of 885 meters, stands the Shad Tchup Ling Monastery. A Buddhist monastery in the Urals is already unusual in itself. But no less “attraction” than the monastery itself is its 54-year-old founder Mikhail Sannikov.

It took a long time for a man to discover Zen. A hereditary military man (his father and grandfather were intelligence officers), he graduated from the KGB school and went to Afghanistan in 1981. He rose to the rank of commander of a sabotage and reconnaissance group. His colleagues still remember his accuracy. The main task of their detachment was to destroy caravans with weapons that were going to the Mujahideen from Pakistan. Sniper rifle Sannikova did not know a single mistake. And then there was a breakdown. Mikhail aimed his sight at the horse, loaded with weapons. Nothing new. He did this for many years. All you had to do was pull the trigger and shoot the horse in the head. But then Sannikov saw through his sight how the animal was crying. Tears flowed from the horse's eyes. And he couldn't shoot. For failing to carry out orders, Mikhail was demoted. And he was only happy about it. From one old Afghani, a military man who had done something wrong learned about Buddhism, about self-restraint, about achieving nirvana, and also about the fact that they themselves are the cause of people’s suffering. And, having returned to his homeland, he did not go home at all, but to Buryatia - to the largest domestic Buddhist center. After 7 years of practice, Sannikov received the name Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit. And then the mentors sent the former military man to build a new monastery.

Sannikov's followers claim that the place (the top of Mount Kachkanar) was seen by teachers during meditation. But there is a much more rational version: in the west of Russia there was already one Buddhist temple - in St. Petersburg, in the east there were temples of Buddhist Buryatia, but in the middle, in the Urals, it was empty. This is how the idea of ​​building a monastery arose on one of the most high points Ural mountains

When Lama Dokshit first climbed to the top in 1995, there was nothing here. Only stones,” the novices say with a breath. “The first thing he did was build a hut here.” One! Periodically he went down to the city to earn money for food. Rumors about the lama quickly spread throughout the surrounding area. And soon he had assistants...

Now Shad Tchup Ling is no longer just a hut, but an entire residential complex. There is a bathhouse, a dining room, and even a library.

KP journalists went to the monastery at the end of December. We then collected information for the New Year's guide to the most interesting places Sverdlovsk region. Of course, there was also a place in it for a Buddhist monastery.

We then brought with us a pineapple and a bag of sweets.

It would be better if they brought plastic fittings,” the lama tsked while accepting the gifts. - We are now building an airship. It would be useful for our hull.

- And where will you fly on it?– we asked.

Yes, wherever we want! - Mikhail answered, sipping tea from a mug.

- Have you finished building the monastery yet?

We practically never started. Work for another 279 years. But next summer we will at least put up a statue of Buddha.

Now, apparently, these plans will not come true. Conversations that the monastery stands illegally and needs to be demolished have been circulating in the Sverdlovsk region for several years. But no one actually took it seriously. Even Sannikov himself. When we asked in December if he was afraid that his monastery would be demolished by excavators, Dokshit only smiled skeptically:

There is a crisis in the country now. Nobody cares about us.

But the business turned out to be too profitable to forget about it, even during a crisis.

« Before March 1, 2016, the demolition of the Buddhist monastery “Shad Tchup Ling” must take place in the city of Kachkanar, - stated in the resolution of the bailiffs of the Federal Bailiff Service of Russia in the Sverdlovsk region . – Mikhail S., who lives in this monastery, is obliged to release land plot from buildings that are intended for religious ceremonies. The reason for the eviction of Buddhists is the illegal occupation of territory under federal ownership; in addition, given land is located in the development of the Kachkanar iron ore deposit itself. The city court made this decision in favor of the Forestry Department in the summer of the year before last. Due to the fact that Mikhail S. repeatedly failed to comply with the requirements of executive documents, he was brought to administrative responsibility under Part 1 of Art. 17.15 Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation and Part 2 of Art. 17.15 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation (for repeated failure to comply with the requirements of enforcement documents of a non-property nature). Also, in relation to Mikhail S., a decision was made on a temporary restriction on travel outside the Russian Federation».

At the same time, the bailiffs clarify that no one is going to kick the monks out into the street.

An operational meeting was held at the Administration of the Kachkanar City District on the issues of Mikhail S.’s fulfillment of the requirements for moving the monastery to Mount Mokhnatka. Mikhail S. was present at the meeting, where he was again presented with a demand for execution of the court decision before March 1, 2016, as stated by the Federal Bailiff Service of Russia for the Sverdlovsk region.

The monastery, in turn, declares that it will not be able to move by the beginning of spring.

We believe that the decision to demolish it is illegal,” says novice Anna Kolosova. – Indeed, we had an agreement with the city authorities that the monastery would be moved to Mount Mokhnatka. To do this, the Evraz metallurgical plant had to develop a place on the mountain and an approach route to it. But these conditions were not met. We're ready to move. But only when all obligations are fulfilled. In the meantime, naturally, we will protect our monastery from demolition.

Photo gallery from the Buddhist monastery "Shad Tchup Ling"

Every morning we are born again. And what we do today will be of greatest importance.
Siddhartha Gautama
I continue the story about interesting people. Yes, the story will mainly be about the only mountain Buddhist monastery in Russia, but the monastery is the work of a specific person.
So, spring, Sverdlovsk region, Kachkanar, the mountain of the same name.

01.
I found information about the monastery by chance while preparing for a spring trip to the Urals. Sensible reports about the visit can be counted on one hand, mostly some articles about litigation with the Kachkanarsky GOK and rumors about imminent demolition. So I had to take my hands in my hands and go before it was too late.

02.
Mount Kachkanar stands next to the city of the same name, or rather, the city is located at the foot of the mountain. The mountain is so-so, far from Elbrus, only 887.6 m. This is the height we had to go to.

03.
The most difficult part of the entire ascent was to pass the GOK entrance. The mountain turned out to be on the territory of the enterprise. I asked the security guard if it was possible to go up the mountain, she replied that it was possible, but we had to get approval from the department, it was in the city, but they weren’t working today (Saturday), and it wasn’t a quick task. But since we came from afar, she simply had to tell us that their work is difficult, the territory is huge and it is simply impossible to keep track of everything. Here she sees it at the barrier, but over there, behind the bushes three meters away, she no longer sees it. They say there is a path there, and further along the road, the main thing is not to get under the BelAZ. After thanking the guard and loudly expressing our regret about the inaccessibility of the monastery due to bureaucratic delays, we went behind the bushes.

04.
Well, then we go up the mountain along an excellent road. Along the way, you can stop at a couple of observation platforms, and even climb onto lighting towers. The quarry is active, so there is something to look at and you need to look both ways.

05.
From the second lookout, a straight old road goes up the mountain, we follow it. As you climb, you literally cross several natural zones in just an hour. You should take your children on excursions here; it’s rare that changes in nature can be so clearly shown in such accessibility.

06.
And eventually you come out into a small clearing. If you go straight, you will get to the Camel rock and an alpine lake.

07.
The lake is so-so. It will probably be more fun in the summer, but in May there was still ice on it. Fishermen are still sitting on the luda of this thickness in the spring

08.
And to the right there begin simply fantastic (for the end of spring) deposits of snow, along which a chain of old tracks can be seen. Let's follow them. Step to the side and you fall almost waist-deep.

09.
There is a thick layer of snow underfoot, and streams gurgle under the snow. You can hear them perfectly and you don’t want to fall into them at all. A few hundred meters later, right in the forest, there is a large stack of boards and a sign in the style of “Traveler, throw away your things, leave your fatigue and help build the monastery.” We helped, yes.

10.
The last push along the kurumnik, we jump over the slippery stones and behold, the monastery. To be honest, there were fears of not being able to catch him there.

11.
The monastery is being built, from completely finished buildings, perhaps only the stupa of the Awakening. Through the gates, drums and information board we finally get inside.

12.
We are clearly welcome

13.
No, actually we are glad. A man came out hearing the dogs barking and led us inside to dry off after swimming in the snow and drink tea. “Drinking tea” is perhaps the most frequently used phrase at the top.

14.
This concept does not include tea drinking itself, although of course there will certainly be one, but rather conversations and gatherings. This is the eastern version, this is Asia.
“Where are you from? And then where can I see the photos? On LJ? Is he still alive?!”
Soon they had a logbook shadtchupling

15.
Having warmed up, we go out to explore. This is a stunningly beautiful place! I love mountains, even small ones. There is something primal in them, revealing the subconscious in a person.

16.
A long time ago, the Mansi lived on these lands. No one lived on the mountain itself, but it was considered a place of power and was used to perform religious rituals.

17.
When the Russians came to these places, they became interested in the local deposits. According to rumors, Demidov himself wanted to buy the entire mountain from the Mansi, but something didn’t work out between them.

18.
Then platinum fever passed through these places, but quickly ended. The mining and processing plant was founded in the late 50s of the last century, at the same time the city of Kachkanar was founded on the southern slope of the mountain.

20.
The idea of ​​building a monastery came to its creator in 1995. The creator was Mikhail Vasilievich Sannikov, a very interesting person. He was born into a military family, and for several years he commanded a sabotage and reconnaissance group in Afghanistan.

21.
He was demobilized from the army due to disability with the rank of captain, worked as a nurse in a morgue, as a cook in the river fleet, and graduated from the Nizhny Tagil Art School as an external student.

22.
In the late 80s, at the age of 27, Mikhail decides to go to study at the Ivolginsky datsan. He entered and took the monastic name Tenzin Dokshit. I went to Mongolia and after finishing my studies I wanted to move there to live. But fate decreed otherwise.

23.
To be completely precise, his teacher Pema Jang ordered otherwise. The young Lama Dokshit was given the order to build a Buddhist datsan in the Urals. The logic is simple: in the east there are Buryat churches, in the west St. Petersburg Gunzechoiney, in the south datsans of Kalmykia, and in the middle it is empty. There are no Buddhist temples in the Urals. And in order to stand out completely, the temple must stand on the top of a mountain.

24.
We chose Kachkanar, a mountain on the border of Europe and Asia. As I already said, this place has long been known as a place of power. And the name of the monastery was given to Shad Tchup Ling - “place of practice and implementation” (or “Place of study and implementation”, as you prefer). Construction began on May 15, 1995, and during the first years Tenzin Dokshit built it alone.

25.
The first buildings were almost entirely wooden, and a fire that happened in 1998 destroyed everything that had been rebuilt. The Lama and his few disciples had to start all over again.

26.
After a walk along the mountain we drink tea again.

27.
Mikhail is an excellent conversationalist with a unique sense of humor. In general, if you communicated with a Buddhist who was a military man, a pathologist and a river worker, and even with a good education and encyclopedic knowledge in various fields, then you will understand me
For some reason I kept remembering “The Golden Calf”
“Have you read about the disarmament conference? - one pique vest addressed another pique vest. – Speech by Count Bernstorff.
– Bernstorff is the head! - the asked vest answered in such a tone as if he was convinced of this on the basis of his long-term acquaintance with the count. -Have you read the speech Snowden made at a meeting of voters in Birmingham, that stronghold of conservatives?
- Well, what can we talk about... Snowden is a head! Listen, Valiadis,” he addressed the third old man in Panama. – What can you say about Snowden?
“I’ll tell you frankly,” Panama answered, “Don’t put your finger in Snowden’s mouth.” I personally wouldn't put my finger on it.
And, not at all embarrassed by the fact that Snowden would never have allowed Valiadis to put his finger in his mouth, the old man continued:
- But no matter what you say, I’ll tell you frankly - Chamberlain is still a head too.
Pique vests raised the shoulders. They did not deny that Chamberlain was also a head. But most of all, Briand consoled them.
- Brian! - they said passionately. “This is the head!”

28.
No, in fact, I was ready to listen to Mikhail Vasilyevich all day, or even two. He told why smoking filtered cigarettes is more harmful than just cigarettes, how pipe tobacco differs from cigarette tobacco (he loves to smoke), the story of the Russians coming to these lands and what happened before that, how ore is mined and why the Kochkanar Mining and Processing Plant wants to evict them from here and much more.

29.
I learned a lot of new information, but never received an answer to my questions about the plans of the monastery, where the money for construction came from and why there are no documents for the land. With Buddhist directness, the lama answered me that we are what we think; that the monastery is not the main thing, the main thing is the process; and money is like food: if it is taken internally according to the body’s needs, then the food becomes food and since the body is alive, then there is food. Excellent answer from the tax office, you can use it

30.
After tea and conversation, break for work. That day they made a shed-shed for all kinds of household needs.

31.
The people here are handy, and whether you like it or not, you will inevitably learn to work with your hands. All sorts of mechanisms were collected around the area and used on the farm. No one will just drag such heavy weights up the mountain.

32.
A couple of years ago there were fewer problems with the delivery of building materials, food, and in general with movement. From the mining and processing plant there was a pass for entry and passage, the car could drive to that site with a sign for Camel.

33.
Since then, the plant’s policy has changed dramatically and even on foot the monks pass through the checkpoint illegally. There is also a path on the northern side of the mountain, but it is suitable for transporting anything only in winter.

34.
Then, with the help of dogs or a snowmobile, construction materials are thrown in. By and large, there are two seasons in the monastery: winter is the time of dropping off building materials and studying, summer is the time of construction and study.

35.
Up here there is no electricity, running water, or steam heating. No official permits, no documents. One on one with the outside world.

36.
The territory of the monastery, in fact, like the whole mountain with all the lakes, Camels, the Gagarin monument and the mass hiking trails The Kachkanarsky GOK wants to finally close it. The basin is expanding, they are starting to develop a new field, and there is a risk that the mountain may be destroyed by explosions.

37.
Shad Tchup Ling is the only mountain Buddhist monastery in Russia, the Kachkanarsky GOK is developing the only vanadium deposit in Russia. It’s hard to argue with money; the plant produces 55 million tons of iron ore per year.

38.
In addition to the monastery, we may also lose a mountain, as happened with one of the Sterlitamak shihans. In 2015, the mining and processing plant plans to launch production at a new deposit at the very foot of the mountain.

39.
One of the main tenets of Buddhism is that everything in this world is changeable and impermanent.

40.
But let's return to the monastery. We came there for a couple of hours, and ended up staying for a bathhouse, dinner and overnight. Where does everything come from on this rocky peak?

41.
Even though it’s May, the schedule is still winter. Studying, shopping for supplies, tea. No one stands over the students with a stick, it’s just that if you came here, it means you want to study, and in order to survive you need to do housework.

42.
This is what the monastery should become at the end of construction. Dogs provide the main assistance in transporting building materials. The guys say that they had a hard time with them until they understood what needed to be done so that they would pull the sled in the right direction. Well, the dogs seemed to understand what they wanted. But there are still cases when the whole bunch breaks away and runs away wherever they look, taking the sleigh with it.

43.
Mikhail says that the level of students is different. Someone with higher education, and someone needs to improve their school course. There are books in the library for every taste, that's for sure.

44.
According to the schedule, from among the monks, those on duty are appointed to take care of the household, someone is assigned to work at a construction site, and someone goes into the city on business or to buy groceries. In general, it’s like in the army.

45.
The farm has chickens, goats, a cow, and dogs. Everyone needs to be fed, everyone needs to be cleaned up.

46.
Some also need to be milked.

47.
This is a vegetable garden. They say they even grow something. Mikhail graduated from the Perm Agricultural Institute in a year and probably knows some secrets about how to grow potatoes on stones. As I say, he is a very interesting and versatile person.

48.
There is no electricity, the light comes from a kerosene stove, but there is LED lighting powered by a car battery. The laptop runs on it, and the battery is charged during the day when the gas generator is started for work.

49.
The water is local, rainwater. It is collected in a natural reservoir and taken as needed. In winter it all freezes to the bottom and you have to melt the ice and snow.

50.
As the lama says, they have been drinking for several years, the horns and hooves have not grown, so everything is fine. It was difficult in the dry years. It was summer, when there was no rain for several months and we were without water.

51.
This is how it lives somehow unique place. It is clear that not everything is legal, it is clear that outwardly it looks more like a labor community, but I would really like the GOC to find an opportunity to leave the monastery and the mountain alone.

52.
We wish the monks good luck and strength of spirit. As far as I know, now, six months later, their situation has not changed.

(Tib. “Place of practice and implementation”) founded on May 15, 1995. This amazing place, in which you understand your atomic involvement in the creation of the Universe. Shad Tchup Ling is the place where the Sun is born!

Today I will tell you about my May Day trip to Mount Kachkanar, to visit the inhabitants of Shad Tchup Ling, and I will touch a little on the topic of creation and the amazing tranquility of people who have changed their everyday life.

My trip to Mount Kachkanar to the Shad Tchup Ling Monastery took place in early spring - May 6, 2016. I started my ascent from the barrier of the Western Quarry, because the passage through Kosya is difficult to pass in the spring. A lot of melting snow.

For those who decide to visit the community, my advice to you is to call them and ask them what to bring. This is not a mandatory action, of course, but as part of hospitality, they always welcome useful gifts from guests. This time I brought them cereals, bread and vegetable oil. The community telephone number is the same: +7 965 529 2708.

The climb to Kachkanar through the Western Quarry is like a long walk; the total distance from the barrier to the monastery is about 8.5 km. The entire climb is on a dirt road, so wear shoes with thick soles, otherwise your feet will hurt very much by the middle of the journey.

Getting to the entrance of the Western Quarry is very simple - you drive into Kachkanar, drive to Krylova Street and follow it straight all the time until you hit the barrier. Here you leave the car and go around the checkpoint through the forest to the left of the checkpoint, because Security will only let you through the barrier if you have a pass. Then the path goes along a dirt road, all turns are to the left. After about 1.5 km there will be a large turn to the left. On it, if you go straight, you can reach observation deck, which offers an interesting view of the Western Quarry. If you chose the route correctly and kept turning left, you will come to a tree with ribbons and a sign indicating the route: Camel Mountain - straight, monastery to the right.

The road from the sign to the community itself passes through a very picturesque forest. I was much luckier - my route passed through a spring forest, which revealed its natural artistic potential in all its colors.

The foot of the Buddhist community appears in a fabulous silhouette in the rays of the spring sun, like a fairy tale impregnable castle which you must conquer. Just not with a weapon, but by stopping the internal dialogue.

The ascent along the kurumnik to the monastery is, in my opinion, the most colorful element of the entire route. Stepping carefully from stone to stone, you rise closer and closer. Closer to yourself and your questions.

The entire territory of the monastery is under active construction, the community is always open to help and waiting for volunteers. The demolition of Shad Tchup Ling has temporarily stopped: the Kachkanar Mining and Processing Plant has frozen the development of the deposit until 2028, and the monastery, in turn, will receive landmark status. So I think this one unique monument of a different faith will forever be preserved on the Ural land!

Looking through the guide to the Urals, I mentally planned my trips around the region, marking on the map the most interesting places and routes. One of these places is Mount Kachkanar, located in the North of the Sverdlovsk region and is one of highest peaks Middle Urals.The Buddhist monastery of Shad Tchup Ling is located on the mountain. It is the only Buddhist datsan in the Urals. After googling on the Internet, I found out that the monastery has its own group in contact http://vk.com/shad_tchup_ling. I called the monastery to arrange my visit. Received the approval of the Chief Lama Dokshit, me were allowed to visit the monastery and stay overnight. MOn the phone he asked to bring some products and told in detail how to get to them.

Having packed my hiking backpack, early in the morning I went to Shad Tchup Ling.

The route of my trip began from the city of Verkhny Tagil, by car I drove to the city of Kachkanar. Citywas founded to ensure the development of the Kachkanar group of fields. From the moment the decision on construction was made to this day, the city has been inextricably linked with the mining and processing plant. Construction of the mining and processing plant and the city began in 1957 and was declared a Komsomol shock construction project.

From the city of Kachkanar I headed to the entrance of the Western Quarry, this is the end point of movement by car, then I had to climb the mountain on foot.

After about 2 km of climbing up the mountain, I came to the observation deck of the Western Quarry. Its development has begun back in the 30s and 40s. All mined ore from the quarry is transported tomining and processing plant (GOK) "Kachkanarsky", located nearby, mThe processing capacity of which is 33 million tons of iron ore per year.The Kachkanarsky GOK is the largest mining and processing plant in Russia.

There are traces of sleds on the trail: in the monastery there are dogs on which novices carry food and various loads up the mountain.

There is a sign on the path. Meaning: if you go straight, you will come to the “camel” rock, if you go right, you will come to the monastery. From this sign to the monastery there is a 1 km walk.

Now about how the monastery appeared on Mount Kachkanar.
Lama Dokshit (means protector) is a former military man, I’ll tell you about him a little later. His teacher, Darma Dodi Zhalsaraev, lived in Buryatia. One day the teacher dreamed of a beautiful monastery on a mountain called Kachkanar. In the morning he called Lama Dokshit and told about his dream. They began to look for a mountain with that name and discovered it 5,500 kilometers from Buryatia in the very center of the Urals. There Lama Dokshit began building a monastery in 1995. WITHConstruction of the monastery according to the construction plan is designed for 300 years.

Construction is being carried out according to the ancient Tibetan and Mongolian canons of monastic architecture, which allows preserving the ecosystem of the area and harmoniously fitting the complex of buildings into the picturesque landscape of Mount Kachkanar.The main function of the monastery is to organize and ensure the Buddhist practical process: conducting rituals, services, traditional festive events, individual and collective practices.

This year, solar panels were installed in the monastery, thanks to which there was internal lighting in all buildings and the ability to charge phones and laptops.

Now there are four novices living in the monastery, not counting the Lama, who undergo practices, do housework and fulfill various vows. Some have been living for 12 years, others came a month ago.

Lama Sanye Tenzin Dokshit in the world is Mikhail Vasilyevich Sannikov, a very kind, open-hearted person with a subtle sense of humor. You can talk to him on any topic, I even got the impression that he knows the answer to any question. People constantly come to Lama Dokshit different people, different levels of income and class. Ordinary tourists come for the sake of curiosity, advanced Buddhists and Yoga Gurus come to practice in the monastery. Many come just to chat, talk about life, and gain experience. He does not impose his opinion on anyone, does not engage in moralizing and promoting religion, as various preachers of various religions do.

I’ll tell you a little about life in the monastery. A duty officer is assigned every day. He wakes up before everyone else, lights the stove, cooks food and clears the table.

There are always kettles with hot tea on the stove. Kettles are insulated with caps to retain heat longer. The white ones have black tea, the rest have green tea. In such frosts, tea helps to warm up; they drink it here all the time and treat all guests. Lama Dokshit jokes that “our water is magical.” Jokes aside, but the water is really very tasty, despite the fact that... there is no hole or spring on the mountain. In summer, the guys collect rainwater, in winter they raise it from a special pit-well.

There is an altar in a separate room. To honor the Body of the Buddha, images (thanka) of a Buddha statue are installed on the altar.

Eight cups for offering gifts; water is poured into them in the morning and poured out in the evening. Some cups are filled with rice and are also used as an offering.

On the left on the altar lie sacred texts - this is the speech of the Buddha, the teaching through which living beings achieve Enlightenment. Therefore, they are considered the most sacred item on the altar.

Various ritual accessories.

In the morning I went for a walk around the outskirts of the monastery, admiring the winter beauties of Mount Kachkanar.

An interesting rock called "Camel", there really is a similarity.

It's time to go back home, I say goodbye to Lama Dokshi and his students. Thank you for your hospitality, for the magical tea and interesting communication.

If you are planning to visit the monastery, do not forget to take gifts with you - building materials, polyurethane foam, any products, etc. It is better to call or contact the monastery in advance to find out about current needs.