The devil jig is a catchy baitless bait for different types of fish. Pig mask Making devils at home

“Devil” is one of the most widely used and effective reelless three-hook jigs, with a body made of lead or tungsten. One of the advantages of this jig is its versatility and ease of use. When playing the devil, you don’t need to accelerate to 300 oscillations per minute, like most nozzle-less jigs; a frequency of 50-150 oscillations is enough. This game with a jig allows you to catch both predatory and peaceful fish.

Often, purchased devils do not fully satisfy the requirements placed on them. At first glance, colorful and neat, after 3-4 successful bites they become unusable. The paint peels off and all the shortcomings of mass production immediately appear.

Making a catchy reelless jig will not take much time, and the result will please you for a long time.

What you need

To make a “devil” you will need the following tools and devices:

1. Hooks, three of the same size. In addition, there is another hook one size larger with a longer shank.
2. Thin section copper wire (diameter no more than 0.1 mm).
3. Drill or screwdriver. You can also use a three-jaw chuck.
4. Soft lead-tin solder in the form of wire (diameter 1 mm).
5. Knife.
6. Needle file.
7. Nail scissors with pointed tips.
8. Side cutters.
9. Solvent (white spirit or nail polish remover).
10. Fine grit sandpaper.
11. Nail polish of the required color (mostly light fluorescent tones for greater visibility in water).
12. Cambrics of various diameters, or heat-shrinkable couplings.
13. Gas lighter.

Manufacturing instructions

Let's look at a universal example of making a reelless jig "devil". Let's break our process into 3 stages:

Stage 1 – preparing the base of the jig

From each of three hooks of the same size, we bite off the ears in the middle of the forearm with side cutters (in equal parts). We clean the surface of the hook from which it was bitten off with a file to remove paint and varnish. We take a larger hook and bite off the long shank, which makes up the main part of the length of the “devil” - the rod.

We clean it from the paintwork. Apply super glue to the resulting rod and glue the stripped hooks one after another. Before the glue sets, we place our structure in the chuck of a drill (screwdriver) to create the symmetry of the future jig. After the glue has dried, the base is ready.

Stage 2 – making the “devil’s body”

Prepare solder and copper wire. We take our base and, without touching the glued hooks, wrap it with double folded copper wire. With each new revolution we increase the pressure. Having wrapped the base with copper, carefully remove the ends of the wire and begin winding the tin-lead solder. You will need about 7 cm of solder.

If it is necessary to make a more voluminous or heavier “devil,” we add a piece of steel or tungsten wire under the copper winding. If you just need to increase the volume of the “body”, then we wind the solder in a second layer.

We cut off a piece from the heat-shrink sleeve, 5 mm wider than the body of the “devil” being made, and pull it onto our structure. Holding the workpiece by the upper eye, carefully heat the heat-shrink sleeve with a lighter until it shrinks completely.

Then we turn the hooks up and continue heating from all sides, melting the solder. The melted solder will fill all the air voids, and rosin will appear where the hooks exit. We finish heating after solder appears in the gap between the hooks, thereby soldering them together. If the heating is not stopped in time, the solder will simply flow out, irreversibly damaging the workpiece.

When the solder has cooled, carefully cut off the heat-shrinkable sleeve from the body of the “devil” with a knife. Having removed the excess, an almost finished jig appears before us. We evaluate the work done: the body should have a smooth shape, while the hooks should have symmetry and be tightly soldered. We remove excess solder with a knife and, if necessary, bring the body to the desired shape using a needle file and sandpaper.

Stage 3 – final processing

Let's start the painting process. The choice of color is a rather complex and controversial issue. When fishing at great depths, it is advisable to use lighter tones of yellow or greenish colors. In shallow water, gray, dark brown and black colors are optimal. In search of the right coloring, we are not afraid to experiment with a variety of color combinations: red-white, black-greenish, gray-golden.

We wait until the varnish dries, and our universal “devil” is ready.

The choice of gear and features of fishing with a homemade “devil”

The choice of gear is important for proper jig fishing. The main link of any tackle is the nod. Its optimal length should be at least 200 mm. Experienced fishermen successfully use a watch spring with an anti-corrosion coating. A nod made from such a spring does not rust and has the necessary rigidity.

The diameter of the spool in the reel is at least 50 mm, otherwise a spiral will form when the fishing line unwinds. The choice of fishing line depends on the depth of the reservoir and the current. At great depths it is better to use a stiff line. It will not get confused during hatching and conveys the bite better.

Basic fishing styles

To start the game, lower the bait to the bottom. To attract the attention of the fish, we tap the bottom 5 times and begin a slow rise with a small amplitude but a fast frequency. Raising it to a height of 40 cm, we make a smooth hook and lower the “devil” back to the bottom. With this style, the bite will not take long to arrive.

The second style of calf is called the pendulum. The nod is in a horizontal position. Having lowered the jig into the hole, we carry out a slow rise, while moving the nod to the right and left (one swing). Having made quick 5-6 swings, we lift by 60-70 cm. Then we repeat everything from the beginning.

For the third style, the nod is placed at an angle of 45°. By lowering the “devil” we make smooth wiring with increased amplitude. Every 20 cm we stop for a 3 second pause. The lift ends with a smooth sweep.

1. The “devil” is fished with hooks up to No. 4, like a reelless jig. Starting from hook No. 5, bloodworms (maggots) are already placed on one of the hooks.
2. The depth of use of jigs with medium (No. 3-5) hooks is limited to 5-6 meters.
3. At a depth of more than 6 meters, reinforced lead or tungsten “devils” with hooks No. 6-8 are used, using various baits (attachments).
4. Jigs with hooks No. 2.5-3 and yellow (white) cambrics on them are considered universal.

The devil is a fairly catchy tackle, which is most convenient to use in winter: the main thing is to know the time when the fish will peck at it most actively. As a rule, this is the very beginning of the cold weather and closer to February or March.

This bait is most effective when hunting the following types of fish:

• Perch;
• Roach;
• Zander.

This bait is most often used for catching perch. Outwardly, it looks like a slightly elongated jig, which has the shape of a drop. The average length of such a nozzle is about a couple of centimeters. The fishing line here must be secured to the top of the product using a ring.

Instead of a traditional hook, a tee is placed here, and beads of different sizes, painted in different colors, are placed on each of its hooks. The nozzle itself comes in both dark and light colors.

To catch fish using a devil, it is necessary to use ordinary jig tackle, which should have a nod of medium hardness. For the most effective fishing, a strong but not too thick fishing line is suitable, the maximum diameter of which will be about 0.15 mm.

There are a very large number of varieties of such attachments. They may differ from each other in weight, size, color and a number of other parameters. For each breed of fish you will need to select your own version of the nozzle. In this regard, when going fishing, it is advisable to have a large number of devils on hand.

What to make a devil out of?

Making such a nozzle with your own hands is not too difficult, and it is made from scrap materials. To do this, you will have to take three identical hooks, saw off or bite off the eye of two of them, press them tightly together and twist them securely using thin copper wire.

After this, take an ordinary drill, the chuck of which is equipped with a three-jaw mechanism, clamp the hooks between the jaws, after which they are carefully soldered with tin or lead. This completes the production of the tee.

Two strips of the required size are cut from sheet lead, cuts are made in them for hooks and a tee is soldered to them. First you need to solder only one strip, make sure that the hooks are held on it quite firmly, after which they are connected to another plate.

All excess is cleaned off with a file or needle file, and sanded thoroughly to make the product shiny. Now all that remains is to paint and dry the product, after which the product can be considered completely finished.

Homemade soldered devil

To quickly get such bait at home, you will need to use the following tools and materials:

• Miniature bench vise;
• Standard drill chuck;
• A soldering iron with a thin tip, the maximum operating power of which will be 40 W;
• Wire cutters;
• Pliers;
• Soldering acid;
• A small brush with which the acid will be applied;
• Tin or lead solder, as well as rosin;
• Copper wire, the diameter of which should be about 0.2-0.3 mm;
• Several identical fishing hooks, their size should be from 2.5 to 5.

First, they take three hooks and carefully examine them: from them, choose one with the most neat eye, leave it, and bite off the other two. Through this eyelet the bait will be attached to the fishing line. You should bite off the two remaining ears as far as possible from the hook itself.

It is most convenient to make them of different lengths, since in the future this will greatly facilitate the work.

The hooks must be firmly clamped in a vice, but this must be done very carefully so that they do not bend. First, one of them is wrapped with copper wire, as tightly as possible. This will allow the solder to adhere better to the resulting product in the future.

After this, the hooks are connected to each other using the same copper wire.

The correct fastening is established using a drill chuck: the workpiece is clamped between the jaws, carefully leveled in height and the chuck is thoroughly tightened.

Due to the copper wire, the body of the future nozzle will be formed - it is wound tightly around the hooks as follows:

• The first turns must go from the bend to the eye, they are pressed together with pliers or manually as tightly as possible;
• From the ear, the turns are applied approximately to the middle, after which they move in the opposite direction;
• Extra wire will need to be bitten off or broken.

When the workpiece is made, proceed to soldering. Use a brush to lubricate all elements with soldering acid and apply tin or lead. It is imperative to wait until it cools down, otherwise there is a risk of getting a rather serious burn.

You will need to solder it at least one more time: the devil is returned to the cartridge, securing it at the very tip.

At the last stage, using a soldering iron, you need to give the devil the correct shape. Using a file or other similar product, the rosin is completely cleaned off, and a black thread is wound around the forend. If you wish, you can paint this nozzle in a suitable color. It is generally accepted that fish bite much better on devils painted black.

This method has a rather serious disadvantage: there is no way to get a bait with beads that will not fly off the hooks. Therefore, they need to be put on after the product is completely ready. You can even secure the beads with small pieces of cambric.

Ant devil

It is a type of devil, and often it is even more catchy compared to the classic design of this bait. The production technology is not too complicated.

To do this you need to take the following materials:

• Frame made of transparent plastic;
• Split sprue;
• A small lead ball, the diameter of which should be no more than 6 mm;
• Panel.

The frame is designed to ensure that bubbles or voids can be found in a timely manner during the casting process. Usually the mold is made of alabaster, but this substance is not very durable - it is usually enough for only a few castings, then a layer of metal is formed on it.

Its thickness is not too large, but this immediately affects the final quality of the nozzle.

To make the form durable, you can add a small amount of gypsum or the material from which dental fillings are made to alabaster. Its thickness should be no more than 2 mm.

To cast balls of different diameters, you can take a set of bearings. All elements are installed in an alabaster plate. Take several hooks of the same size, sharpen them well, and clean them of rust.

The balls are soldered together and covered with a layer of molten tin. You can drill a small hole in the top ball through which the fishing line will pass. Another variety of such attachments is the so-called witch.

To make it, you need to use four hooks instead of three; all other production technology will be exactly the same.

"Lazy" homemade devils

Such nozzles are distinguished by the fact that they are much easier to make, since you do not have to resort to soldering; accordingly, there is no need to remove rosin and other substances from the surface of the finished product, which in one way or another can reduce the catchability of the product.

The easiest way to make such devils is from parts from lighters, since Even the cheapest design has several elements that can be useful:

• Small springs, with which you can protect rubber elements from being cut by fishing line during fishing;
• Felt mugs, which are put on the forend of the nozzle, perform the function of a wing, providing natural guidance in the water column;
• Cylinders made from yellow alloys - they are just suitable for the production of the nozzle body;
• Metal rods, made of yellow alloys, have a longitudinal hole. They are also suitable for getting the base of the devil's body;
• Soft tubes made of aluminum.

The hardest thing here is to carefully break the lighter. To do this, wrap it in a rag and gently hit the plastic part with a hammer. The cylinder is removed, into which the compressed lead pellet is inserted. A hole is pressed into it with a hot needle.

A small piece of a rather soft tube is put on it, through which the hook will be threaded. In principle, the nozzle is ready for immediate use. To make it as visible as possible, it is wrapped with copper wire.

How to make a devil on a pike perch?

Pike perch is a rather cautious fish, so it is necessary to prepare the devil for catching this species as carefully as possible.

In principle, the starting materials will be the same, the production technology will be slightly different:

• Hooks are taken with a longer shank so that the tee of them is as smooth and correct as possible;
• On a block made of wood, make three cuts, which should be at an angle of approximately 120 degrees. The depth of each of the cuts should be about 4 mm;
• Hooks are inserted there and are tightly wound with wire;
• Take ordinary culinary foil, make a small funnel out of it and pull it onto the hooks so that the cone is located at the top of the forend;
• Pouring melted foil into foil. This is done very carefully so that the entire mold is filled with metal as evenly as possible;
• Before the metal has time to completely harden, a ring is inserted into it, which will be used to secure the fishing line;
• After the mold hardens, remove the foil, begin to form the body of the bait, do this with a small file. At the last stage, the nozzle is painted.

How to make devils for winter fishing?

Before you start making a devil, you should decide what kind of fish you plan to use such a bait on. The type of reservoir, the presence of current in it, and its speed also play a very important role. The immersion depth of the nozzle will also in one way or another affect the shape and weight of the finished product.

Products that are too heavy should not be built, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to implement a natural game with their help. To make a devil, you can use a variety of technologies: in principle, the production method is not too important: the most catchy tackle is often obtained even using the most basic method.

It is not at all necessary to paint the finished nozzle, but you will have to sand it. The devil must be absolutely smooth, otherwise the fish will immediately sense something is wrong before swallowing it and move away from the bait. In addition, the streamlined devil will move in the water quite naturally, reminiscent of the movements of a real fish.

Hello comrades!

Let's start with the pig mask. The cute Nif-nif is made using absolutely the same principle as... a cat and... an elephant. It looks amazingly like an elephant. It’s not for nothing that there is a fairy tale about this().

Pig or pig mask

So, the pattern will be like this.

By the way, the difficulty will not be in the mask, but in finding cardboard of the right color. I used pink photocopy paper and reinforced it from the inside with masking tape, as well as pink isolon. An ordinary travel rug. And just white isolon (for insulating floors - sold in hardware stores), I blushed it. Someday I’ll tell you about all these cunning ideas. Now let's return to the pig mask.

Attach the pattern to a sheet of A4 cardboard (landscape). It matches the width very clearly. Let's cut out, cut through all the darts, lightly draw the edges of the dart on the forehead, glue it, pinch the bridge of the nose (with a stapler is best).

The forehead is now convex, the nose is moved forward, the eyes are narrowed. We wrap the nose and glue the snout (it is better that the color of the snout is somehow different from the main color of the mask, but not radically, for example, not crimson).

We also glue the free corners of the cheeks to the patch. Ears. Well, the ears are fluffy and very interestingly bent forward, hanging over the eyes. So Naf-naf is ready. Or maybe it’s not a pig, but a pig. Then it’s worth drawing eyelashes and highlighting the blush.

Believe it or not, comrades, but a cute pig mask can easily transform into... a devil, and I would even say an imp. Well, such a character will also come in handy, for example, for caroling or for Halloween.

Schematically they are the same. The pattern is the same, let’s change the color and add horns and a gloomy expression and we’ll get a fiend from hell.

2015 has recently arrived, the reservoirs are covered with ice, in some places it is solid, in others it is very thin, and going out on it is life-threatening, and in others there is no ice at all and the spinning festival continues. By my nature, I more and more often strive to visit open rivers in order to fish on them with a spinning rod, but sometimes I don’t want to feel the smells of a universal scale from the eternally stinking Moscow River, and then on such days I take a drill, get into the car and go to the some pond or lake, or on the solid icy edges of the Oka. I won’t say that the fish caught are really trophy size, but from time to time you come across good specimens. For the most part, I fish with a balance beam or a vertical line, but when there is no fish in the hole, I collect the rest with a reelless reel. I really like to catch devils in such cases.

The choice of devils and witches in our stores today is huge - these include homemade options made from lead and tungsten, and the famous Tula baits. Today they are considered the best option among mass-produced ones. Most of the assortment of fishing stores is represented by medium-priced baits made of pressed powder tungsten, and the vast majority of these baits are painted. And everything would be fine, but often the quality of manufacture of these same “tungsten” devils (the witch differs in the number of hooks - she has 4 of them instead of 3 for the devil) leaves nothing to be desired. And it’s not a matter of neat assembly or painting; it’s the quality of attaching the hooks to the devil’s body. When you hold the bait in your fingers, it’s all so neat and even, the hooks are very sharp, and just like that, they’ll fit into your fingers. But as soon as you catch a dozen perches or roaches with it, the paint peels off, and the whole essence of mass production begins to appear through it - a copper-coated tungsten body with a slot into which the hooks are soldered. The soldering looks excellent, smooth, without holes or cracks (visible under a magnifying glass), but as soon as you pick out such a devil from the mouth of a greedy perch or roach, only one body remains in the medical clamp, and it’s good if it has one bent hook. It is not uncommon for the bait to fall apart during hooking or retrieving. All this does not add joy when you pay money for the bait, sometimes quite a lot, and in the cold there is not the slightest desire to tie up a useless bait. There are samples in which the hooks are held on the body only by covering the latter with paint. Such hooks bounce off along with the paint on the first or second bite. As a result of such poor-quality devils, I lost a couple of good trophy bream with a weak bite. And I decided to start analyzing and making homemade devils with my own hands at home and please the “penguins” with the development. Look what happened.

First of all, we need to decide what size and weight of devils we use most often. I love thin, runaway devils, with a ring at the top, with or without a bead - depending on your taste. I fish more often at depths of up to 3 m, so I no longer see the point in using heavy tungsten devils - they play very aggressively, and this does not improve fishing performance. Lead or an alloy of lead and tin plays much more interestingly and softer in such conditions. There are dozens of options for making such devils from lead, starting from casting in a mold (the repeatability is simply amazing) and ending with simply clamping a float pellet onto the fore-end of a tee or even a single hook. And if the first option allows you to make high-quality baits with hooks that fit tightly in the body, then the second is most often disposable “devils” for fishing. What should we do?

Making a mold is difficult, time-consuming, and often makes no sense.

And you can find the way out yourself - just run for five minutes to a radio store with two hundred rubles in your pocket and buy what you need.

Namely, solder in the form of lead-tin wire with a diameter of 1 mm with rosin (this particular reel is the most expensive investment), a set or bundle of heat-shrinkable tubes. Along the way, you can stop by to buy a couple of packages of the necessary hooks and beads in the handicraft department. I hope most people have a thin medical clamp with straight jaws, thin copper wire too, super glue is the cheapest, a 3 g tube is enough for hundreds of baits. From banal tools - scissors, a lighter, definitely a simple gas lighter, argon versions are suitable for me, a backing for the table, a couple of small needle files and a bottle of black nitro paint (for those who like to experiment - a set).

So let's get started. We take the hooks we need, they are very ideal for us with a spatula, in the amount of 3 pieces, and one hook with a ring (you can take an unimportant quality, we only need the upper part of it), we bite off/break off at the hook, pry it off, throw it away, and the resulting rod with With the ring at the top, we clamp it into the medical clamp by the ring.

If 3 hooks also have rings, then we break them off, leaving only part of the fore-end and hooking it with the sting. Apply a little superglue to the rod clamped in the clamp and glue one of the three hooks, trying to do this very carefully.

All other stages and, ultimately, the bait itself will depend on the quality of this work. Consistently, keeping all 3 hooks neat and symmetrical relative to each other, glue them onto the rod. While this whole thing is drying, we work with solder - tear off a piece of wire about 7 cm long, and prepare thin copper wire. You can take it from old TVs, we need it like a hair - with a diameter that looks like 0.05 or even thinner.

Carefully, trying not to touch the glued hooks, we wrap our workpiece with double-folded copper wire, increasing the pressure with each subsequent turn. We remove unnecessary ends, apply solder and begin winding over the copper base.

It should look something like this.

If it is necessary to make a thicker body, or a heavier one, then you can add a piece of tungsten, steel, or copper wire under the copper winding. If you need to maintain a small mass, but sharply increase the cross-section of the body, then the solder is wound in two layers, and for large devils, in three. For appearance, before winding the solder, you can put on a bead of the desired color; if it is needed at the hooks, then before wrapping it with copper wire, it is first placed on the structure. Instead of beads, I often use small brass balls, they add a little weight and look beautiful. We cut off a piece from the heat-shrink tube, 4-5 mm larger than our body of the future devil, and stretch it onto the workpiece.

If you don’t have the required diameter, then stretching the whole thing with a clamp is not difficult - but keep in mind that the tube should sit with a slight effort, and not dangle around the body like an onion ring on a skewer). We clamp the workpiece by the top ring, adjust the heat shrink, and begin to carefully heat it directly over the heat shrink with a lighter.

When the heat shrink takes the form of a solder winding, we turn our workpiece into a vertical position with the hooks up and carefully continue to heat it from all sides. An indicator that the solder has melted and filled all the voids under the heat shrink is the appearance of rosin at the exit point of the hooks. (see photo below)

If you continue to heat, the solder will appear, neatly filling the gap between the hooks and soldering them tightly, and the heat shrink on the body will become smooth and form the future body. It will never burn, it will simply harden, which is why it is ideal for these purposes. But don’t overdo it - if you overheat the workpiece, you can lose the solder, it will simply leak out from under the mold. While the alloy has not hardened, carefully adjust the position of the hooks with your fingers, maintaining symmetry. Let the workpiece cool and use a utility knife to cut off the burnt heat shrink from the devil’s body. Usually this is possible immediately. But there may be problems - the rosin grabs the rubber quite firmly, and then you have to cut the heat shrink or remove it with a stocking. Having removed what is unnecessary, we see an almost finished devil - and immediately evaluate the quality of fastening the hooks and the quality of the body. We carefully press on the hooks, trying to turn them towards each other; if they are caught and there are no voids inside, then this will not be possible without bending or breaking them - the hooks will spring back. If excess solder appears, we remove it from the devil’s ring with the same knife, and bring it to the desired shape with a needle file. To paint or not is your choice, I do it 50/50.

Such devils have been serving me for 2 years now, and not once have the hooks fallen off or turned, whereas with serial devils everything has fallen off a long time ago. The cost of a homemade devil is low, and up to two dozen similar models can be made in an evening.

And even though they weigh less than tungsten ones, we talked about the method of weighting above, but under load, these simplest little devils show amazing durability - there is no thought that the hooks are about to fly off or the ring will fly out. Feel free to tear them off if there is no way to unhook them. If you set a goal, then you can make other winter jigs in the same way, if you wish.

Holidays and carnivals in a kindergarten or school are not only a joyful and fun event for children, but also a headache for adults who do not know how and where to get the right costume or mask for a child.

Of course, constantly buying or renting a suit is quite an expensive pleasure, so you should think about making it yourself. Don’t rush to give up, even if you are far from needlework and sewing. A creative approach to business and imagination will help you bring any bold idea to life.

A popular costume is a pig or pig.

Deciding on a character and thinking through the image

What comes to your mind first? Pink color, a snout nose, funny triangular ears or a donut tail? All these are integral components of the image of a pig, which means that to one degree or another they should be reflected in his costume or accessories.

You can make any pig costume you like: perhaps it will be the perky and cheerful Funtik, or the cute and charming Piglet (either from the Disney version of the cartoon, or from the Soviet one), or one of the three pig brothers from a famous fairy tale, or a funny and resourceful pig Peppa, or the capricious beauty and imaginary Nyusha from Smeshariki. As you can see, there are a lot of options to choose from.

It is necessary to select a character based on the child’s personal preferences (maybe there is a favorite cartoon or fairy-tale character, a pig), and also take into account his age. For example, if your baby is still very tiny, then there is no need to make bulky costumes or think about numerous details, because most likely you need the outfit more than the child.

For infants or children who are not yet walking, you can make a funny pink jumpsuit with a hood in the shape of a pig’s face, and if you are familiar with knitting, you can knit panties and a hat with ears for his head.

Much greater scope for creativity opens up when creating costumes for older children.

Several ideas and options

A child's holiday outfit can be the simplest. Perhaps you will simply designate the image of a pig with a headdress or mask, and the role of a costume will be played by ordinary clothes, skillfully selected and suitable for this character.

For example, if you dress a boy in a beige or light pink shirt/turtleneck with a bright vest and short pants or bloomers with straps/suspenders, then you will get one of three brother pigs. You can complete the look with a mask, which is very easy to make.

1. The pig mask can be made of paper. Then all you need to do is find a nice mask template and print it out, then cut out the holes for the eyes, color it and attach an elastic band. If you don’t want to paint, you can print out a color template right away, and to make the mask stronger, glue it to a thick base or cardboard. If desired, decorate the mask with glitter or other decor.
2. The pig mask or headdress is also made from other materials. You can make it in the same way as a paper one, only from felt, sew it from fabric (taking any hat as a basis), make it from foam rubber or papier-mâché, etc. Face painting would also be appropriate for the holiday.

If you know how to sew, you can use patterns and completely sew a suit. This can be either a one-piece jumpsuit or pants with suspenders or a skirt (for girls), described in the first option, but already made specifically for this look.

Select materials that are light and voluminous so that they hold their shape well and look beautiful, for example, thermal velour, fleece, organza or taffeta. It will work out very well if you duplicate the material with padding polyester. Be sure to attach a ponytail to the costume (you can twist it from wire and cover it with fabric), and the legs can have pink socks or knee socks.

https://youtu.be/p6Ih5uKu1-0

If there is a costume competition or important performance coming up, you can make some original or interesting costume, for example, a Peppa Pig costume or Nyusha the Smesharik. By the way, such costumes will be available even for adult animators. Peppa may be wearing a pink dress or sundress, but she will have to tinker with the headdress. Try cutting it out of foam rubber and painting it or making it out of felt.

For Nyusha’s costume, you will need to sew a “round dress” (cut it like a sundress or a dress with a yoke, but add a tulle lining down and gather tightly to make a ball). Decorate the dress with applique or other decor. You can put a pink headband with ears and a pigtail on your head, or you can make a full-fledged Nyusha headdress (more suitable for animators or for creating life-size puppets).

Let the image of a piglet, created with your own hands, be the brightest and most beautiful at the upcoming holiday!