The most dangerous rocks in the world. The five most dangerous peaks in the world

In April of this year, one of the most tragic incidents in the history of conquering the mountain happened on Everest: as a result of an avalanche at an altitude of 5800 meters, 16 Sherpa guides died. However, the highest peak in the world is not the most dangerous and difficult. Let's take a look at the list of the 25 most dangerous mountain peaks all over the world.

Everest, Nepal/China

Everest, being the highest peak in the world, at the same time is not the most difficult to climb, but still quite dangerous. In the entire history of ascents on the slopes of the mountain, about 250 climbers have died. This year alone, an avalanche at an altitude of 5800 meters buried 16 Sherpa guides under it.

Makalu, Nepal/China

Makalu (pictured: a mountain with a glimpse of the sun on top), the fifth highest mountain in the world, is located just 12 km from Everest, on the border of Napal and China. The difficulty of climbing it also lies in the fact that it is difficult to get to it. Now helicopters are used for this. Makalu is considered one of the most difficult peaks among the eight-thousanders. The conquest of the "Crown of the Earth" - the conquest of all 14 eight-thousanders of the planet - is a great achievement in high-altitude mountaineering. On this moment only 30 climbers succeeded (27 men and 3 women).

Photo: Oleg Dubinets

Mont Blanc, France/Italy

Technically, Mont Blanc is not a difficult peak, which attracts a huge number of climbers of various levels to it. Perhaps that is why, according to various estimates, up to 8,000 people died on the slopes of Mont Blanc.

Photo: tomas meson

Chogori or K2, Pakistan/China

Chogori or K2 is the second highest peak in the world - perhaps the most difficult and deadly mountain on this list. For every four successful ascents of Chogori, there is one death. Expeditions to K2 depart only during the summer season.

Photo: Kev Little

Cerro Torre, Argentina/Chile

Looking at the photo of Cerro Torre, one can easily imagine why this peak is so difficult. Due to the strongest cold winds, the steep top of the mountain is often covered with a dense crust of ice. The first successful attempt to climb was made only in 1974.

Photo: Geoff Livingston

Annapurna, Nepal

Annapurna was visited by only 157 people, about 60 more died before reaching the top. Thus, the mortality rate on this mountain is 38%, which is even higher than that of K2. However, this is not the limit: Kanchenjunga has a higher mortality rate, but more on that below. The southern slope of Annapurna is considered one of the most difficult routes to climb.

Photo: Steve Razzetti

Eiger, Switzerland

The Eiger in Switzerland is notorious for its impregnable northern wall with a vertical drop of 1650 m. 64 people died on this slope alone. The first ascent of the Eiger was made in 1858.

Jannu, Nepal

Mount Jannu in the Nepalese Himalayas attracts the attention of climbers around the world as one of the most beautiful and difficult peaks of the Himalayas. The most difficult sections start after 7000 meters.

Photo: My Himalayas

Logan, Canada

Mount Logan - the second peak after McKinley North America, it is included in the list of "Seven Second Peaks", which includes the second highest peaks of all seven continents. Some of these peaks are considered more difficult than their more famous and taller rivals. What is worth only, for example, K2 (mentioned above). Although the ascent of Logan itself is no more difficult than McKinley, however, before that, climbers still have to make a long way to the foot.

Photo: robertlbolton24

Dhaulagiri I, Nepal

The Dhaulagiri mountain range consists of 11 peaks, the main of which exceeds 8 km, the rest exceed 7 km. From 1808 to 1832 Dhaulagiri was considered the highest peak world, but climbers turned their attention to it only in the early 1950s. Only the eighth expedition was successful. Dhaulagiri I ranks seventh in the ranking of the highest peaks and has a higher death rate among those of comparable height Himalayan mountains. Since 1950, 58 climbers have died on the mountain.

Photo: Zolashine

Gauri Shankar, Nepal/China

Gauri Shankar is located near his neighbor Melungtse. Since it is climbed from the side of Nepal, and not Tibet, it has received more climbers. As with Melungtse, climbing Gauri Shankar is extremely difficult.

Photo: Ashish Bhujel

Siula Grande, Peru

The peak of Siula Grande, located in the Peruvian Andes, gained fame thanks to the book "Touching the Void" by climber Joe Simpson. The book tells the story of two young British climbers who, in 1985, set off to conquer Siula Grande on a route that no one had yet climbed. In 2003, this exciting book was made into a documentary.

Photo: eathikesleephike

Banntha Brakk, Pakistan

Only three expeditions have reached the summit of this mountain in the Karakorum mountain range. It is known as one of the most difficult peaks in the world: as many as 24 years passed between the first successful ascent in 1977 and the subsequent one in 2001. For the difficulty of climbing and the high mortality rate, the mountain was nicknamed the "cannibal".

Photo: nunkun

Vinson Massif, Antarctica

Climbing Vinson is not too difficult, but the problem is that it is the highest peak in Antarctica. The existence of this mountain range became known only in 1957, it was then that it was discovered by American aircraft. The highest point - Vinson Peak (4892 m) is part of the Seven Summits climbing project.

Photo: Stefan Radovanovic

Cerro Paine Grande, Chile

The summit of Cerro Paine Grande is part of the Cordillera del Paine mountain range in Chile. As with Fitz Roy, the difficulty of the climb lies in sheer cliffs and unpredictable weather.

Photo: Sebastian Irarrazaval

Lhotse, Nepal/China

Lhotse is directly connected to Everest and is considered the fourth highest peak. About 400 successful ascents and 20 deaths have been recorded on Lhotse. Climbing Lhotse isn't all that difficult: at least one tour operator offers a package that includes climbing both peaks on the same expedition.

Photo: Carsten Nebel

Melungtse, Nepal/China

The only successful attempt to climb Melungtse was recorded in 1992, but to a greater extent not because of the difficulty of climbing, but because of the difficulty of obtaining permission from the Tibetan authorities. Nanga Parbat, Pakistan

Mount Nanga Parbat was dubbed "the eater of people." For the first time it was possible to conquer it only in 1953, and many subsequent attempts ended tragically. The peculiarity of climbing Nanga Parbat is that part of the climb from all sides is made up of sheer walls, the length of one of which, called Rupalskaya, reaches 4600 meters - this is the longest wall in the world. Nanga Parbat has never been conquered in winter.

Photo: Getty

St. Elias, USA/Canada

Mount St. Elias (St. Elias), located on the border of Yukon and Alaska, is not spoiled by the attention of climbers due to terrible weather conditions that make climbing difficult for most of the year. Because the summit is only 10 miles from the ocean, it is subject to frequent Pacific storm winds.

Kanchenjunga, India/Nepal

Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was considered highest mountain world, however, calculations made after the expedition of 1849 showed that Everest is higher, and Kanchenjunga is the third highest peak. Despite the global downward trend in mountain climbing deaths, this rule does not work in the case of Kanchenjunga. In recent years, the number of tragic cases has increased to 22% and is not going to fall.

There is a legend in Nepal that Kanchenjunga is a woman mountain and she kills all women who try to climb to its top. For a long time, the only woman who managed to climb to the top and go back down was the British climber Jeanette Harrison, who conquered the Main Summit in 1998. A year and a half later, she died while climbing Dhaulagiri. In 2008 on highest point one of the most beautiful mountains Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner climbed the Himalayas, in 2009 - Spaniard Edurne Pasaban, Polish Kinga Baranowska and Korean Oh Eun Son.

Mountains beckon a person, challenge him. Some of the people accept the challenge. But not everyone comes back. Among the climbers there is also a rating of "killer mountains", which are extremely dangerous to conquer.

Annapurna

Location: Nepal. Himalayas.
Height: 8091 m.
Annapurna was the first of all 14 eight-thousanders to be conquered. It happened, however, by accident. The group of the French climber Maurice Herzog went to conquer another peak - Dhaulagiri, but after reconnaissance, they decided that it was possible to conquer another mountain. It turned out to be Annapurna, the northernmost peak of the Himalayas. The ascent took place on June 3, 1950. The conquered summit "took its own" from the French group. All members of the expedition received frostbite, Maurice Herzog had to amputate his fingers and toes throughout the descent.

The French group is still lucky. To date, one and a half hundred ascents have been made on Annapurna. In the entire history of conquering the peak, the death rate of climbers was 41%, which is extremely high. For comparison, this coefficient for Everest is only 7.4%. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that only experienced climbers go to Annapurna, while everyone who has enough money in their wallet is trying to conquer Everest.
The American extra-class climber Ed Vitus, who has conquered all 14 eight-thousanders, left Annapurna "for dessert". His impressions of this mountain are interesting: "Annapurna is one big danger, it is all covered with ice. One large piece of ice with ice growths on it. And the whole question is in which direction the next growth will deviate, forward or backward."

Location: Pakistan and China, Karakorum.
Height: 8614 m.
K2, Chogori, or Dopsang is considered the second most difficult climb on Earth, it is second only to the already mentioned Annapurna. Furthermore- Chogori is also the second peak in height (after Everest), but in terms of difficulty of conquest, it far exceeds Chomolungma.

K2 was discovered back in 1856, but almost a century later, in 1954, an Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio managed to conquer it. Interestingly, in 1902, the famous occultist and climber Aleister Crowley made an attempt to conquer the mountain, but the summit was not given to him.
As of mid-2008, 284 people have climbed to the top of this mountain, 66 have died while trying to climb. A large number of climbers died already on the way back. The death rate of this terrible peak is 25%, that is, one in four of those who tried to conquer K2 died.
In the history of climbing Chogori, the Russians left a noticeable mark. The route that our climbers managed to overcome on August 21, 2007 is considered the most difficult. The Russian group climbed the western wall of the summit, which was considered impassable until that time. In winter, no one managed to conquer K2.

Nangaparbat

Location: Pakistan, Himalayas.
Height: 8125 m.
Nanga Parbat is called the "mountain killer" and "swallowing people". It is the westernmost peak of the Himalayas. Nanga Parbat began to collect its mournful statistics from the first attempt to conquer it - in 1895, she "absorbed" the best climber of her time, Briton Albert Mummery. Since that time, according to statistics for 2011, Nanga Parbat has claimed the lives of 64 climbers. In total, 263 people were able to conquer Nanga Parbat. The death rate of this peak is almost 23%. Every fifth climber who dared to challenge the mountain died.

Pragmatic people explain the reason for such a high mortality rate as an extremely unfavorable sum of climatic factors in the region of the mountain - the arid climate at the foot causes a huge temperature difference. The weather from this is very unpredictable, and deadly avalanches are also frequent.
Recently, the "human factor" has also strengthened the unpleasant glory. In June last year, the camp of climbers, located at the foot of the mountain, was attacked by Taliban militants. As a result, 10 people died.

Nanga Parbat, however, is magnetically attractive - this mountain has the highest absolute height. Coming close to the mountain, you can see a wall 4.5 kilometers high above you.

Kanchenjunga

Location: India, Himalayas.
Height: 8586 m.
The third highest eight-thousander in the world, the easternmost of them. In 1905, the already mentioned Aleister Crowley was the first to try to conquer the mountain. Did not work out. Kangchenjunga was conquered only after 50 years. In the entire history of ascents, only 187 people have safely reached the summit. Of these, only 5 were women.

It is believed that Kanchenjunga is a female mountain, which is why she kills climbers who dare to conquer it.
The mortality rate of this peak is 22%. Contrary to the statistics, which in the case of all other killer mountains tend to decrease, with Kanchenjunga it is the other way around. Year after year, the mountain takes new lives. By the way, this mountain was wonderfully depicted by Nicholas Roerich in the painting of the same name. Google it.

Location: Switzerland, Alps.
Height: 3970 m.
The only western summit in our ranking. Despite its seemingly insignificant height, Eigar is considered one of the deadliest peaks in the world. Aigar first submitted to man on August 11, 1858. Several routes lead to the top of the mountain. The most difficult is the route on the north face of Eigar. It was passed for the first time only on July 24, 1938. The complexity of the route is in an incredibly large difference in altitude and in very unstable weather on the northern slope. During the years of ascents, the summit claimed the lives of 64 people.

Mountains have long attracted to themselves brave people with their impregnability, as if they challenged them, and never forgot to take their share - not all conquerors of the peaks were able to return home. Many have remained forever captives of the silent giants - a good warning to those who follow in their footsteps. Every year, dozens of people die in the mountains as a result of avalanches, landslides, blowing winds and severe snowstorms. Perhaps this is how nature expresses her unwillingness to have people disturb her stone giants. But this does not make those who strive to reach the next peak less. This article lists the most dangerous mountains for ascent, in parentheses is the percentage of deaths during the conquest.

1. Annapurna (34%)

• Altitude 8091 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

The nature of this peak was described very colorfully by the American climber Ed Vistours, who called it a permanent danger completely covered with ice, a single piece of ice with ice growths. Annapurna is probably the most dangerous peak in the world. On its slopes, more than a third of the climbers who tried to master it find eternal peace.
Annapurna became the first eight-thousander conquered by man. This was done in 1950 by French climbers Louis Lachenal and Maurice Herzog. The descent from its summit took them 14 days, and as a result of frostbite, both lost their toes, Erzog also had frostbite on his hands. This ascent is considered by climbers to be the most outstanding in history. After them, another 130 people had the courage to climb Annapurna.
She has no equal in the number of dangers that await climbers. In 2014, a terrible tragedy occurred here - 39 climbers first fell into a snow storm, and then under a series of avalanches, no one survived.

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2. Chogori (K2) (29%)

• Height 8614 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Pakistan, China).

The highest peak of the Karakoram and the second in the world, Chogori or K2 is slightly inferior only to Everest. This peak rises on the China-Pakistan border. In terms of danger for climbing, she was far ahead of Chomolungma, second only to Annapurna. Even the simplest of the climbing routes laid along it contain sheer cliffs and overhanging pillars and blocks of glaciers. Due to the technical difficulties of climbing, every fourth climber who tries to conquer Chogori perishes.
Most often, climbers storm the summit from the Pakistani side, although there is a bottleneck here, where an avalanche can come down at any moment. In winter, conquering K2 is considered impossible. Russian climbers in 2007 were able to climb K2 along the most difficult route - along the western slope, which until now was considered impregnable.

3. Nanga Parbat (21%)

• Height 8126 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Pakistan).

Until climbers chose Everest for climbing, it was Nanga Parbat that was the deadliest peak, for which it was even nicknamed the killer mountain. It is located in the northwest of the Himalayas. The summit can only be reached via a very narrow ridge, and at 4,600 m, the southern side is the highest slope in the world. The first to conquer Nanga Parbat was Hermann Buhl in 1953. He walked for 40 hours without an oxygen mask and an ice ax. Since then, 263 people have climbed this peak, and 62 have not returned. But the extreme complexity of the ascent only attracts extreme people, especially many who want to compete with the impregnable southern slope.

4. Dhaulagiri I (16%)

• Height 8167 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

This is the seventh highest peak in the world. Even venerable climbers often get lost on it. The southern slope of Dhaulagiri I is still impregnable - among climbers, climbing it is equated with suicide. The most dangerous for climbers are local avalanches. This peak was the penultimate eight-thousander, who submitted to people. The first group to climb it was a group of Swiss and Austrian climbers with two Sherpas. Later, a group of American climbers who had no experience in Himalayan ascents attempted to storm the summit from an unexplored side. A powerful avalanche took 6 climbers and two Sherpas with it. This was the worst tragedy in the mountains of Nepal at that time.

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5. Kanchenjunga (15%)

• Altitude 8586 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (India, Nepal).

The name Kanchenjunga is translated as "mountain of five treasures". This is the third highest peak in the world. For the first time, climbers managed to reach the summit of Kanchenjunga after half a century of unsuccessful attempts in 1955. There are no paved routes and trails. Inclement weather and frequent avalanches further complicate the ascent. So far, only 187 people can boast of being on top of Kanchenjunga. Almost every new ascent takes another life of climbers.

6. Manaslu (Kutang) (10%)

• Height 8156 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Nepal).

The many-domed Mount Kutang (“mountain of spirits”) occupies the eighth position in the list of eight-thousanders of the world. Climbers preparing to conquer its main peak must be prepared not only for the usual dangers that await them - avalanches, but also for unexpected monsoons and mudflows. The first to conquer Manaslu in 1956 were Japanese climbers. This ascent remained the only successful one for a long time, until in 1971 another group of Japanese climbers reached the summit.
The threat of avalanches and technical difficulties during the ascent are somewhat less noticeable than during the descent. One of the worst tragedies in the history of mountaineering took place here, when five Korean climbers and 10 local Sherpas died on the route from a huge avalanche that demolished the intermediate camp located at around 6500 m.

7. Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) (9%)

• Altitude 8080 m.
• Located in Karakoram (Pakistan).

The name Gasherbrum means "beautiful mountain". The fact that people on this “beautiful mountain” die much less than on the peaks listed above is explained by the fact that only the most desperate and experienced climbers think about conquering it. It was called “hidden” because when approaching it along the main route, the mountains are not visible for a long time due to powerful spurs.
For the first time this peak was conquered by a group of 8 Americans in 1958. Piet Schöning and Andy Kaufman, the first to reach the summit, reported their success with the help of mirrors to their comrades below. The legendary Reinhold Messner also climbed Gasherbrum I, and he did it in alpine style - without an intermediate camp, oxygen mask and additional equipment. He was accompanied by Hans Kammerlander - this couple crossed two eight-thousandth peaks at once during one trip. That is, they were able to conquer Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II in just eight days.

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8. Makalu (9%)

• Altitude 8485 m.

Already the long path to the fifth peak of the world Makalu ("black giant") contains danger, although this is only a prelude to the difficult ascent to the peak itself. This is one of the most difficult peaks in terms of climbing. Here, as well as when climbing K2, the descent is the most dangerous, during which most of deaths. Such a fatality, in particular, leads to the shape of the mountain - a tetrahedral pyramid with very steep slopes, on which storms and avalanches often occur. Brave climbers Denis Urubko and Simon Moreau were able to climb this already deadly peak in winter. They had to endure wind gusts up to 120 km/h and forty-degree frosts - such conditions can kill on their own without any climbing.

9. Chomolungma (Everest) (6.74%)

• Height 8848 m.
• Located in the Himalayas (Nepal, China).

And here is the highest peak of our planet. This fact, as well as the relative ease of conquest, made this peak the most attractive for climbing among climbers from all over the world. At some point, thanks to the efforts of technical staff and Sherpas, the route to climb Everest became as comfortable as possible, which gave rise to an entire industry around conquering the “roof of the world”. Even inexperienced rock climbers were allowed to climb. Since Hillary first climbed Everest, more than 7,000 people have made it to the top of the "roof of the world." Of these, about 250 remained on its snowy slopes, reminding with their presence the next daredevils climbing up that Chomolungma does not like jokes. Not so long ago, a strong earthquake of magnitude 7.8 hit Nepal, which cooled some hotheads. Then a lot of avalanches descended from Everest, taking dozens of Sherpas and climbers with them.
Many climbers are familiar with the local attraction - "green shoes". This is the corpse of the Indian climber Tsevang Palzhor, who died sometime during the ascent and turned into a frozen landmark, which eloquently reminds all the following climbers that you have to pay dearly for the beauty of ascents.

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10. Mont Blanc

• Altitude 4810 m.
• Located in the Alps (France, Italy).

Although Mont Blanc (" white mountain”) and almost half as low as the Himalayan eight-thousanders, but it is the highest peak Western Europe yielding highest peaks Caucasus. It is an integral part of the crystalline mountain range, on which popular ski resorts Courmayeur and Chamonix. From a technical point of view, the ascent to Mont Blanc is not too difficult, but almost every year deaths occur here, due to frequent avalanches and bad weather conditions. In 1741, the Englishmen Richard Pocock and William Wyndham first climbed the neighboring peak of Montenvieu, and Mont Blanc itself was conquered in 1786 by the French Jacques Balma and Michel Paccard.

]. Far fewer can name at least five of them and only a few know them all. [confirmation of the proverb "It is better to be the first guy in the village than the second in the city", where the city is the Himalayas and Karakorum, and the village is everything else].

Chomolungma(Everest, Sagarmatha) - 8848 meters * ( * - above sea level; mountain height data may vary slightly in different sources)
The first ascent was made on May 29, 1953 by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary. The most famous of the eight-thousanders, the rest are much inferior to her in popularity. "Chomolungma" - from Tibetan means "Divine"; Sagarmatha means "Mother of the Gods" in Nepalese. The classic name is given in honor of George Everest, who first suggested that this is the most high mountain peace. But the Indian mathematician Radhanat Sikdar substantiated the words of Everest in 1852.

(K2, Dapsang, Godwin Austen) - 8611 meters
The first to reach the summit was an Italian expedition in 1954 (Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni as part of the Ardito Desio expedition). First, the technical name K2 was assigned to the mountain (K1 - Masherbrum, K3 - Broad Peak, K4 and K5 - Gasherbrum II and Gasherbrum I, respectively). Climbing K2 is one of the most difficult, the mortality rate during climbing is very high.

8586 meters
Joe Brown and George Bend, members of the English expedition led by Charles Evans, first reached the main summit on May 25, 1955. The name translates as "five treasures of the great snows", since the mountain has five peaks. There is a legend that this mountain "kills" all women who try to conquer it (although there are successful ascents).

8516 meters
The mountain is located three kilometers south of Everest. On May 18, 1956, the first ascent of Lhotse was made by the Swiss Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger. Despite the "ease" for climbing, it was here that Jerzy Kukuczka, the No. 2 climber of all times and peoples, who conquered all eight-thousanders in just 8 years, died.

8481 meters
Conquered in 1955 by a French expedition led by J. Franco (9 people, the first - Jean Kuzi and Lionel Terray). For a long time it remained in the shadow of more eminent neighbors.

8167 meters
At the beginning of the 19th century, it was considered the highest peak in the world, but climbers turned their attention to it only in the early 50s of the last century. The mountain was first climbed in 1960 by a combined team based on a Swiss expedition (Diemberger, Diener, Shelbert, Forer, Navang and Nyima).

8201 meters
Climbers consider Cho Oyu the easiest eight-thousander [and not by chance - statistics say that the least number of climbers die there]. It was first conquered by an Austrian expedition on October 19, 1954 consisting of Josef Johler, Herbert Tichy and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama.

8156 meters
The summit was first conquered by the Japanese Toshio Imanishi and the Sherpa Gualzen Norbu on May 9, 1956. In 1972, an expedition of 16 Korean climbers perished here.

(Diamir) - 8126 meters
The first attempt to conquer was made by the best British climber of his time, Albert Frederick Mummery already in 1895. This was the first attempt to storm the eight-thousander, which, unfortunately, ended in tragedy. At an altitude of 6400 meters, the climber died under an avalanche. In general, when climbing, many tragedies occur here - according to statistics, only Annapurna and Chogori have the worst statistics. The pioneer here was the German Hermann Buhl (1953) alone - this is a unique case. Here, in 1970, Reinhold Messner also made the first ascent, but lost his brother Günther during the descent (the body was found only in 2005) and lost seven toes.

8091 meters
This is the first eight-thousander that has conquered a man (the Frenchmen Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal climbed it on June 3, 1950). But at the same time, it is also the most dangerous of all: it has the highest mortality rate and the smallest number of successful ascents.

(Gasherbrum 1, K5) - 8068 meters
First conquered by the Americans Peterov Schoening and Andrew Kaufman in 1958.

(K3) - 8047 meters
Located near Chogori (K2). First conquered by the Austrian expedition (Hermann Buhl (the one who climbed Nanga Parbat alone), Kurt Diemberger, Markus Schmuck, Fritz Wintersteller).

(K4) - 8035 meters
The Austrians (Fritz Moravec, Hans Willenpart, Sepp Larch) also succeeded here - in July 1956. IN winter time no one has conquered the mountain.

(Grossanzanfeng, Gossainan) - 8027 meters
Despite the fact that this is the "smallest" mountain of the 14 highest, it was first conquered much later than the others - in 1964 (Chinese expedition - Hsu Ching, Chang Chun-Yen, Wang Fu-Zhu, Chen Sam, Cheng Tien-Liang , Wu Tsung-Yu, Sodnam Doji, Migmar Trashi, Doji, Yonten).

I hope you enjoyed my story. If you suddenly decide to get into the club "14x8000" - think a few times: it's not only very beautiful, exciting, but also deadly.

1. Annapurna (8091 meters, translated from Sanskrit "Goddess of fertility")

One of the 14 eight-thousanders of the planet (the tenth in height), is located in the central part of the Nepalese Himalayas. Despite the fact that Annapurna became the first eight-thousander conquered by man (1950), this mountain is also the most dangerous for climbing. For every 130 successful ascents, there are 53 dead climber. This number includes our famous compatriot Anatoly Bukreev. Surviving the horrific tragedy on Everest in 1996, he died a year later while climbing Annapurna. This mountain could become his 12 conquered eight-thousander.

2. K2 (8611 meters, she is Chogori, Dapsang or Godwin Austin)

The second highest peak in the world after Everest is located on the territory of the Pakistani part of Kashmir and belongs to mountain range Karokorum. The first ascent was made in 1954 by an Italian expedition led by Ardito Desio, the first climbers to reach the summit were Lino Lacetelli and Aquile Companioni. K2 is technically one of the most difficult mountains in the world, 249 people climbed to the top, 60 died during the ascent.

K2

3. Nanga Parbat (8126 meters, Sanskrit "Naked Mountain", also Diamir "King of Mountains")

Nanga Parbat - the ninth highest mountain in the world, located in the northwestern Himalayas in the Pakistani part of the state of Kashmir, closes the top three most dangerous mountains for climbing. The first successful ascent was made in 1953 by Hermann Buhl, a member of the German-Austrian expedition. Nanga Parbat is quite comparable to K2 in terms of technical complexity, its southeastern side (Rupal wall) is the highest sheer wall in the world (4.5 kilometers) and is called “people eater” among climbers. In the entire history of ascents on the mountain, 64 climbers have died.

4. Kanchenjunga (8586 meters, the third highest mountain in the world)

Its name means "five treasures of the great snows". This easternmost of the eight-thousanders is located on the border of Nepal and the Indian state of Sikkim. According to local legend, Kanchenjunga is the embodiment of a female deity and tries to kill any woman who tries to climb to the top. Indeed, until 1998, only one woman managed to climb the summit safely, it was a climber from Britain, Janet Harrison, who, however, died four years later while climbing Dhaulagiri. Recently, despite the general tendency to reduce the risk of climbing, this rule does not work in the case of Kanchenjunga, and, if we take statistics recent years, then it is Kanchenjunga that is by far the most dangerous mountain in the world. According to the statistics of ascents to Kangchenjunga, 22 percent of climbers die.

5. Eiger (Eiger) 3970 meters

Located in the Bernese Alps, the Eiger peak is not too high by Himalayan standards, however, it ranks fifth in the sad ascent statistics. Its northern wall, 1650 meters high, has earned the name "killer wall". The first successful ascent of the north face took place in 1966 and took a whole month!

6. Matterhorn (4478 meters)

The mountain in the Alps on the border of Switzerland and Italy, one of the most beautiful and impressive peaks in the world, ranks sixth in the sad climbing statistics. This is due to a number of different factors, including frequent avalanches and rockfalls, as well as the exceptional popularity of the route during the peak season.

Matterhorn

7. Mount Vinson (4892 meters)

The mountain is located in Antarctica, and its extreme isolation from any civilization can make any mistake when climbing fatal.

8. Bayta Brakk (Ogre (Man-eater, English) 7285 meters)

Located in the north of the Biafo Glacier in Karokorum, the mountain lives up to its name and is one of the most technically difficult mountains to climb in the world. The first ascent took place in 1977, the next time people climbed to its top only in 2001, that is, 24 years later!

9. Everest (Chomolungma, 8848 meters)

The highest peak in the world is located on the border of Nepal and Tibet. The first successful ascent was made in 1953 by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary. Since the first ascent, about 1,500 people have climbed to the summit and about 200 have not returned. Recently climbing Everest has become safer and climbing statics are improving, despite the serious technical difficulty of the mountain due to its unprecedented height. This is due to the excellent infrastructure and the best guides Sherpas, who sometimes reach the summit several times a season, throwing the necessary equipment.

Everest from Tibet (Rongbuk Valley)