The most striking attraction of Derbent is the Naryn-Kala fortress. Naryn-Kala Citadel - the sunny fortress of Derbent A huge open-air museum

The Derbent fortress of Naryn-Kala was built about one and a half thousand years ago. The exact date of its creation is unknown, but, according to some sources, it was built during the time of Alexander the Great, and with his direct participation.

Naryn-Kala translated from Persian means “Locked Gate”. The fortress was built during the existence of the Sasanian state. But the Arabs managed to win this war and it was they who completed the construction of the Naryn-Kala fortress.

The Derbent fortress has preserved a variety of architectural styles from different times, since the fortress was actively used in various confrontations, and, accordingly, its reconstruction or restructuring was carried out in accordance with the trends of new times.

The fortress is located on a hill more than 300 meters high, which has rocky sides in the northeastern section, which made it more reliable. The citadel occupies an impressive area - more than 4 hectares. The height of the walls reaches 20 meters, and the thickness – up to 3.5. Attached to them are tower-like projections and two large towers, the longitudinal section of which is square. There are a total of 73 towers on the fortress, which were placed along the entire perimeter of the walls.

The fortress and most of the defensive buildings were made of stone of different types, thanks to which Naryn-Kala reached us in very good condition. Its purpose was also administrative - there was an underground prison, a court, and an office.

An interesting engineering solution for the fortress were two water tanks, which made it possible to store essential liquid reserves for a long time, which, in turn, made the fortress much more durable in defense. Water from a spring was supplied to the reservoirs of the fortress using metal and ceramic pipes, and the fortress was conquered several times only because one of the attackers guessed to add poison to the source, depriving the defenders of water.

Another of the economic structures that ensured the improved viability of the fortress were the baths, where there was cold and hot water, so that life here was even comfortable, and not just relatively safe.

In the Naryn-Kala fortress, many interesting household items from different eras have been preserved - ceramics, tools, jewelry, even some jewelry, stored in the fortress museum, which operates there, in the citadel. Active life in this area began back in the Bronze Age, and in the Middle Ages Derbent was one of the key centers for the production of valuable madder dye and opium, which was even reflected in its old coat of arms. In those days, this was a completely legal occupation that brought huge profits to the city. Russia took possession of the Derbent Naryn-Kala fortress in the 19th century.

The Derbent fortress of Naryn-Kala was part of a system consisting of city walls, citadels, sea walls and mountain walls. Now this system, like most of the various architectural and landscape objects of Derbent and its surroundings, is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List and is under state protection, and some parts of the fortress are being reconstructed.

In the Republic of Dagestan, on the shores of the Caspian Sea, not far from the border with Azerbaijan, there is one of ancient cities Russia - Derbent, where the legendary citadel of Naryn-Kala is located.

In 2003, Citadel, Old city and fortifications of Derbent are included in the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Derbent recently officially celebrated its 2000th anniversary, although historians write that the city arose here much earlier, at the turn of the 4th and 3rd millennia BC.

The “testimonies” also differ regarding the date of foundation of the fortress. The most ancient date is the construction of the first fortification on this site in the Albanian-Sarmatian period in the 8th – 7th centuries. BC e.

The construction of stone walls was carried out in the 560-570s AD by Shahinshah Khosrow Anushirvan l.

He also built the Great Caucasian Wall (Dag-bars), which started from the citadel and stretched 42 kilometers into the mountains.

On the other side, the walls of the fortress descended into the Caspian Sea. Thus, the citadel blocked the passage of caravans and enemy troops along the Caspian coast.

During its existence, the city managed to be the center of Christianity in the Caucasus, being located from the 1st century BC. e. within the state of Caucasian Albania. The religious and ideological center of the Arab Caliphate in the Northeast Caucasus from the 8th to the 10th century AD. The city was an independent emirate from the 10th to the 13th centuries. The area around it was invaded by the Mongols in the 13th century.

From the 15th to the 17th centuries there was a struggle between Safavid Iran and Turkey for Derbent. The city came under Persian rule, but the local population was very hostile to the invaders. Until the 18th century, anti-Persian riots broke out.

In 1722, a significant event occurred - Peter I annexed Derbent to Russia for the first time. However, in 1735 the city was returned to Persia.

In the second half of the 18th century, Derbent Khan Fet-Ali built a palace for himself in the fortress.

Now all that remains of it is the foundation, a staircase, and some decorative elements.

On May 10, 1796, during the Russian-Persian War, the city was taken by Russian troops under the leadership of General V.A. Zubov.

In fact, Derbent became a citizen Russian Empire in 1806, which was enshrined in the Treaty of Gulistan with Persia in 1813.

Now the fortress has been turned into a large museum. For example, this 19th century guardhouse building houses an art gallery and a model of the city.

The guardhouse building itself is built of stone of the same texture as the rest of the structures and walls of the fortress, so it does not stand out much.

The territory of the fortress is huge and covers an area of ​​4.5 hectares.

The dimensions of the walls are approximately 180 meters wide and 280 meters long.

Walking around the fortress, sometimes you even forget whether you are inside or outside, since the walls do not “press” and a feeling of spaciousness is created.

Back in the Middle Ages, the Naryn-Kala citadel had its own water supply system.

For clarity, here are examples of pipes and gutters that formed the water supply system.

In the northeastern part of the fortress there is a rectangular reservoir built approximately in the 11th century.

For the 2000th anniversary of Derbent, the fortress was reconstructed.

Because of this, many walls began to look completely new.

Even the color of the new masonry is slightly different on a sunny day.

From the walls of the fortress there is an excellent view of the city and the Caspian Sea.

You can walk along the walls and along the walls, looking into the loopholes and feeling like a defender of the fortress.

If you believe old drawings, in the Middle Ages the territory of the fortress was built up.

Now there is a feeling of relaxation in nature.

Unlike the Old City below, the walls of Naryn-Kala are very green.

The building of the Khan's baths, built in the 16th and 17th centuries, has been well preserved.

The baths were lit through a small window in the ceiling.

And after warming up (there is such a legend), the hot temperature in the baths could be maintained with just one candle.

Soviet scientists also tried to check how true the legend is.

But the secret was not revealed.

Now the interiors of the baths are simply masonry. Probably, in the times of the khans they were somehow decorated.

Well, some of the ceilings are missing altogether, unable to withstand the struggle with time and people.

Khan baths look like this from above.

And next to us there grows a tree hung with ribbons.

We even managed to find blooming poppies on one of the walls of the bathhouse.

The higher you rise, the more you are amazed by the expanses of the Caspian Sea, smoothly turning into the sky.

And it is clear that ordinary multi-storey panel houses have been built in the city away from the center.

Let's continue through the fortress...

In one of the corners there are gravestones collected.

Excavations were carried out at which visible fragments of plumbing and ancient masonry were visible.

And here are the majestic walls themselves.

I couldn't deny myself the pleasure of walking through them.

Nothing remains of the 42-kilometer wall built in the mountains in the 6th century. Perhaps this foundation has something to do with it.

The walls are truly impressive.

Tour groups are simply lost against the backdrop of the fortress walls.

For more convenient defense, combat towers were made, as if protruding from the walls.

If you look closely, you can see a wall going towards the sea and a gate in it, through which the streets in the old city still pass.

Above the entrance to the citadel there is a museum with exhibits from the history of Derbent.

Paintings depicting the history of the city.

There is also an instrument here that belonged to General Ermolov, who was the Tsar’s governor in the Caucasus since 1816.

The Naryn-Kala fortress is one of the most interesting medieval monuments in Russia. If possible, it is worth visiting it and touching the legend, as well as listening to local guides who tell great stories about the history of the city and the fortress.

And finally - white doves at the gates of Naryn-Kala.

Have a nice trip!

2016, Mochalov Artyom

Where do you think this fortress is located? In which country?

And this is Russia. Let me tell you more about it...

Photo 2.

The most interesting, truly unique and unlike any known surviving system of city fortifications is, of course, the Derbent fortress complex itself. The main part of the fortification system is the Naryn-Kala citadel (one of the translations of this name into Russian is “Solar Fortress”), built on a high spur of the Dzhalgan ridge in the 6th century. Powerful three-meter-thick walls enclosing an area of ​​4.5 hectares are made of two rows of well-processed stone blocks filled with broken stone and lime mortar. The parallel walls of the city have the same design, the northern one was built earlier, and the southern one, built later. Both walls have numerous towers. Once upon a time, these walls extended far into the sea, preventing the city from being bypassed in shallow waters and creating a convenient and well-protected harbor.

Photo 3.

An interesting monument, expressive evidence of the antiquity of the city, is located in the northwestern part of the Naryn-Kala citadel. This underground structure, cruciform in plan and covered with cross vaults, was for a long time considered to be a reservoir carved into the rock. However, careful archaeological study allowed the researchers to establish that in front of them was a cross-domed Christian temple, built on the ground in the 5th century, and then buried by powerful thousand-year-old cultural strata. According to historians, Derbent until the middle of the 6th century. was the Christian center of the Caucasus.

There are several gates in the southern and northern city walls, of which the most interesting and most architecturally elaborate are the gates of the southern wall - Orta-kala (Middle Gate). Over the centuries, the walls, towers and gates have been repaired several times. Architectural details in the processing of the tops of walls and towers and gate openings reflect different periods of development of architecture and building art.

Photo 4.

An important place among the city's attractions is occupied by structures for storing and using water, which for any fortified city was almost of primary importance. Water coming from springs on the slope of Mount Dzhalgan was directed through numerous stone and ceramic water conduits discovered during excavations into several underground reservoirs, including an old Christian temple adapted for this purpose. Several ancient fountains have also been preserved in Derbent, from which residents draw water to this day, in particular - Khaibulakh (Khan's Spring), Dgiarchi-bulakh (Messenger Spring) and others.

The ancient baths preserved in the city are also interesting. One of them is in the central elevated part of the citadel. This is an underground structure of a vaulted-dome structure of the 17th century, with several rooms for cold and hot compartments and undressing, with tanks for cold and hot water.

From the height of the citadel there is a beautiful view of the city. Among the flat roofs, as if crooked streets were cut by cracks, rise the domes of mosques, of which there are quite a few in the city. They are reminiscent of the times of Arab rule. The largest, most beautiful and ancient of the mosques is Juma (8th century).

Photo 5.

From the citadel you can also clearly see the extensive ancient Derbent cemeteries with numerous stone steles and sarcophagi of the 5th-9th centuries, marking the burial places of many brave defenders of the fortress who fell at different times.

In the southwestern corner of the fortress wall of the citadel there is a rectangular opening leading to the corner tower, through which there was once an entrance to the Mountain Wall (Dag-bars), which began just from this tower. Currently, only small sections of this wall have been preserved, but their study has shown that it was a grandiose structure, 3 meters thick and 10 meters high, with numerous fortified forts, semi-forts and rectangular towers. This powerful line of defense, meandering along a continuous mountainous terrain, went deeper into the Caucasus for more than 40 kilometers.

Photo 6.

The fortifications of Derbent are made of large blocks of local shell rock. Two rows of stone slabs form the outer cladding of the wall, the space between which is filled with lime mortar backfill. The outer facing blocks are very well fitted to each other and folded without mortar. This gives them not only elegance and monumentality, but also affects the psyche of the beholder with its inviolability and inaccessibility. To firmly connect the facing blocks to the body of the wall, the masonry alternates slabs laid with a spoon (with the wide wall facing out) and a butt (with the narrow side facing outwards - butt), the inner plane of which is left untreated, while the outer surface is well hewn. The size of the blocks is quite standard and on average is up to 1 meter in length, 0.7-0.8 m in width and 0.25-0.3 m in thickness and does not in any way correspond to the somewhat exaggerated reports of some Arab authors.

Photo 7.

Thus, according to Yakubi, “... it (i.e., the wall) was built from quadrangular hewn stones. One of these stones cannot be lifted by 50 people. These stones are placed one on top of the other and sewn to each other with iron bolts.” Other Arab authors, including such authoritative ones as al-Istakhri, Masudi, al-Garnati, Ibn al-Faqih, Abdul-Abbas of Tuz and others, report on fastening wall stones with lead, iron staples and iron bolts. Probably, here we are talking about the construction of fortifications without astringent mortars, which was widespread in those days, which al-Sabi reports in detail. Two depressions were made in the stone, into which metal rods were inserted and filled with lead. Such a stone block was installed on another, in which the hollowed-out recesses were also filled with molten lead. The stone blocks fastened in this way formed a solid structure. The thickness of the walls of the fortifications ranges from 2.3 to 3.8 m, although some authors report a significant thickness of the city walls. In Yakubi, for example, we read: “...The width of the wall... is such that 20 horsemen (in a row) can ride along it without crowding.” Adam Olearius, talking about the Derbent walls, wrote that “... one could ride on them in a cart.” Some Arab authors report walls 300 cubits wide. However, this figure follows, according to Academician V.V. Bartold, is more likely to be attributed to the gap between the two city walls than to their width.

Photo 8.

The preserved height of the walls reaches 10-12 meters, and in some places - 15-18 meters. The fortifications were rebuilt and restored many times. Experts distinguish up to ten sharply different types of masonry, dating back to different periods and associated with different construction schools. The surviving ancient masonry consists of huge non-standard blocks hewn together in place. The masonry of later periods is distinguished by more strict geometry of the blocks, standard row heights, horizontal joints, sizes and processing of the blocks. Architectural details, carved inserts, etc. appear. In later masonry, numerous attempts to imitate ancient masonry are also noticeable.

Photo 9.

In numerous written sources the city is mentioned under various names, sometimes the name of the area is identified with the name of the city. On the maps of Claudius Ptolemy (2nd century BC), the city of Gelda (Gelda) is marked in this area. Byzantine sources call it the “fortification of Tzor” (Tzur, Tsur), Albanian Gate, Choga Gate, Principality of Choga, the great city of Choga, Syrian - Caspian Gate, Toraye Gate, Arab - Bab el-Abwab (main gate, gate gate), Bab el-Hadid (iron gate), Bab Alban (Albanian gate), Sed Alban (Albanian walls), and sometimes just al-Bab (gate). Turkish authors call Temir kapisy or Temir kapi (iron gate); Georgian - Dzgvis kari ( sea ​​gate), Daruband; Armenian - Jora, Jora gate, pakhak (guard) Jora, Pakhak walls, border fortress Chora, Hun gate, Zuar gate, Khon gate, Khon fortress; Russians - Iron Gates, Derben.

Photo 10.

In historical chronicles and folklore of local peoples, the city is mentioned under the names Chulli (darg.), Churul (lac.). In addition, in some sources the city is named as-Sul (wall), Tamur-kagalga, the city of the Chor Passage, the Great Stronghold, Jol, Sed Yajuj-Majuj, the Chora fortress, the city at the Chora gate, the Northern Gate, the Derbent Gate, etc. .

The modern name of the city “Derbent” (Darband) appears in written sources starting from the 7th century, and means, translated from Persian, “Locked Gate”, “Locked Gate”.

The beautiful mountainous country of Dagestan is glorified by many poets, writers and artists. Its unforgettable landscapes, unique way of life, wonderful carpets, jewelry, ceramics and other products by its craftsmen, who speak dozens of different languages, have always been perceived with admiration and surprise by everyone who has become at least a little acquainted with this country.

Photo 11.

Of course, the city of Derbent, the oldest in Dagestan, and throughout Russia, makes a very strong impression on every traveler. He is much older than our country itself, he is more ancient " eternal city» Rome and already existed in the world when on geographical maps there was no sign of modern states. Derbent is 5000 years old.

“The city is located on the western coast of the Caspian Sea, where the Caucasus mountains come almost close to the shore, leaving only a narrow strip of coastal plain about three kilometers wide. Here in ancient times the famous Caspian route lay - the only convenient road from the steppes of South-Eastern Europe to the Middle East. On this route, in one of its most strategically important and geographically convenient places, the first settlement arose on the site of present-day Derbent.”

It was in this place that the rich and prosperous agricultural peoples of the Near and Middle East “fenced themselves off” powerful fortifications from the devastating raids of nomadic tribes from the steppes of South-Eastern Europe.

The idea of ​​blocking off a large area of ​​land from the sea to the high mountains It would seem fantastic if this wall did not stand before us in person. The idea of ​​making two such walls, arranging a transverse “city-corridor” between them, is no less original, and it was implemented. Finally, the Mountain Wall, extending from the fortress far to the west in Caucasus Mountains, although it cannot be considered an exceptional invention, it is quite comparable in importance to the Great Chinese wall, however, of shorter length and, unfortunately, worse preserved.

Photo 12.

At different times, numerous peoples gave the city different names (there are more than twenty in total), but they are all associated with the word “gate”. The name “Derbent” is Persian and dates back to the 6th century AD. e. and literally means “Gate Knot”, or “Gate Lock”. The Russians called this city “Derben” or “Iron Gates”.

A detailed description of the amazing city was left by many admiring observers from different centuries, including the Decembrist writer A. A. Bestuzhev-Marlinsky, who was exiled here. The city reminded him of “a huge boa constrictor, which, under the scales of houses, stretched out from the mountain in the sun and raised its jagged head with the Naryn fortress, and played with its tail in the Caspian Sea.”

The strongest masonry of the fortress walls and towers, which has withstood more than one assault over the millennia, has been well preserved, with a few exceptions, to this day, which gives today's traveler a unique opportunity to mentally talk with contemporaries of long-vanished tribes and peoples.

Photo 13.

Spring in the fortress

Based on reliable sources and studies of the ancient fortifications of Derbent that have survived to this day, it was concluded that the city was founded in the 6th century AD. e. Persian kings of the Sasanian dynasty, and the famous king Khosrow I Anushirvan was considered the “father of the city”, who for the first time fenced off the Khazars from the north with powerful walls in this place. Thus, it was assumed that the age of the city was quite a respectable number - almost 1500 years.

But relatively recently, in 1971, archaeological excavations that began in Derbent yielded truly sensational results, indicating that these places had seen much more ancient times.

Excavations have revealed ancient settlement, which arose at the turn of the IV-III millennia BC, that is, five thousand years ago! On the territory of the now existing citadel, the remains of buildings, numerous objects of labor and everyday life, agricultural tools and granaries were found, indicating the existence here of one of the most ancient agricultural economies, characteristic of the then Near and Middle East and South-Eastern Europe. Found as a result archaeological excavations ancient fortifications with traces of fires and destruction, as well as bronze tips of Scythian arrows, confirm that when the Scythians in the 8th-7th centuries. BC e. were making their trip to the Middle East, they already had to storm the well-fortified fortress of Derbent. Excavations discovered that appeared here at the turn of the 8th-7th centuries. BC e. a powerful fortress with walls made of large rubble stone, which existed with reconstructions and repairs until the arrival of the Sassanids. Naryn-Kala citadel of the 6th century AD. e. was built on the remains of ancient masonry.

Photo 14.

In the III-I centuries BC. e. On the territory of present-day Azerbaijan and Southern Dagestan, the state of Caucasian Albania arose, which then included Derbent. I-III centuries AD were the heyday of Derbent, as evidenced by a large number of imported items and decorations from Syria, India and Egypt, found in burial grounds of this time. Well-processed stone with carvings, clay mortar, and alabaster began to be used in construction. The appearance of square fortress towers testified to further development art of fortification.

In the middle of the 3rd century. n. e. Derbent was captured by the Persian king Shapur I, who “caused destruction and conflagration.” However, the city finally came under Persian rule only in the 4th century. n. e., and a new, most important stage in the construction of powerful fortifications began under Khosrow I Anushirvan (531-579).

“The construction of the Derbent complex was carried out in stages: first the citadel and the northern wall of the city, then the southern wall, and later the Mountain Wall (Dag-Bary). In the 6th century, the first transverse wall was erected, separating the inhabited part of Derbent near the citadel from the uninhabited seaside (two other transverse walls appeared in X-XVIII centuries)". The intensive construction of the fortifications of Derbent took place in an atmosphere of constant instability caused by the appearance at the end of the 4th century. n. e. “Kingdom of the Huns”, and then the Khazar Khaganate.

Photo 15.

In the VI-VII centuries Derbent turned into a developed medieval city, which, in addition to military-defensive significance, has a fairly high level of socio-economic development.

The warlike tribes of the Arabs, united thanks to Islam, created a powerful united state - the Arab Caliphate, which ultimately defeated the Persian Sasanian state. The Arabs immediately began the struggle to take control of Derbent and at the beginning of the 8th century. finally recaptured it from the Khazars. The famous Arab commander Maslam ben Abd-Al-Melik, the closest relative of the Arab caliphs, was called by historians the “second father” of Derbent for his fruitful construction activities.

Photo 16.

By the way, I already told you about

“Locked Gate” - this is how the name of the city of Derbent is translated from the Azerbaijani language. This ancient city of Dagestan passed through antiquity and reached modern times, changing its appearance. But one thing in its appearance remains unchanged - the stone fortress of Naryn-Kala, which once protected the Caucasian people from ill-wishers, and now attracts travelers from all over the world. What does the Derbent fortress prepare for its guests? What historical events are associated with it? This article will answer these questions and provide information useful for your visit.

The name of the citadel, according to different versions, means “Solar Fortress” or “Tower of Light”. The first mention of it dates back to the 6th century BC. Its author is the famous ancient Greek historian and geographer Hecataeus of Miletus. In those days, the structure was called the “Caspian Gate”. The impetus for the start of construction was the order of the Persian king Khosrow I Anushirvn, who came from the Sassanid family.

3D panorama of the Naryn-Kala citadel

The fortress was designed as an addition to the Caucasus defensive system, which guarded Transcaucasia and Western Asia from the raids of northern tribes. It deprived enemies of the opportunity to penetrate cities bypassing the mountains or from the side coastline Caspian Sea. In addition to the Naryn-Kala citadel, this included city and sea walls, as well as the mountain fortification of Dag-Bary.

The building material for the construction of the Derbent fortress was Upper Sarmatian limestone. Its length reached 700 m, height - from 6.5 m. It is impossible to determine the exact height, since the walls were preserved unevenly, but there is no doubt about their thickness - it is 3.5 m. The German traveler Adam Olearius once joked that The walls of the fortress are as wide as a road, and you can easily ride a cart along them.

The western section of the fortress ran in two parallel lines across the coast and went into the sea, forming a kind of bay that did not allow opponents to approach the city in shallow water. Subsequently, the level of the Caspian began to drop, and the walls were extended deeper into the sea.

For many years, the fortress played the most important role in security and defense. Centuries and millennia flew by, generations changed, the new owners of Naryn-Kala made changes to its appearance, modernized and restored its dilapidated fortifications. Traces of reconstructions in different years are still visible, and from them you can read the entire centuries-old history this one.

Main historical events

In 735 Naryn-Kala received the title administrative center military actions of the Arab Caliphate. At the same time, Derbent developed to the status commercial port and took an active part in the spread of the Islamic religion in the surrounding areas.

In the 14th century, Timur Tamerlane, the great Turkic-Mongol commander and conqueror, set foot on the lands of the Caucasus. Many cities fell under his onslaught, including Nizhny Dzhulat (Kabardino-Balkaria). When the military leader approached Derbent, Naryn-Kala surrendered without resistance, tarnishing its reputation.

In the 20s In the 18th century, Peter the Great carried out a Caspian campaign, as a result of which Derbent was included in the Russian Empire. Naryn-Kala passed into the possession of Peter I. However, ten years later, Russia returned the Caspian lands to Persia.

During the Russian-Iranian War (late 18th century), Russian troops made a second capture of the fortress under the command of Valerian Aleksandrovich Zubov. Later he placed the general headquarters in one of the towers.

The year 1867 was marked by the abolition of the fortification. A significant section of the Southern Wall (about half a kilometer) was completely demolished, which improved communication between the citadel and prosperous Derbent.

Legends and traditions

The majestic structure, which came from time immemorial, inspired the Caucasian peoples to compose a considerable number of traditions and legends. The plot of one of them says that when Khosrow I Anushirvan decided to build a fortress, he wanted to make peace with the Khazar Kagan and, in order to prove the veracity of his intentions, asked the Kagan’s daughter, the Khazar princess, to marry him.

The Khazar Kagan was incredibly happy to receive such an offer, because the conclusion of this marriage opened up a direct path for him to the throne of Persia. He immediately agreed and hastily sent the princess to Derbent.

In honor of the bride's arrival, a big celebration was held, she was given honors... but the wedding was not destined to take place. The cunning Anushirvan did not marry the princess, but kept it as a guarantee that the kagan would not attack his unprotected lands until the wall was built.

Having completed the construction, Khosrow returned the girl to her father. Anushirvan did not encroach on her honor, and she returned home virgin, but suspicions and gossip to the contrary tarnished her good name. The angry father gathered a powerful army and sent it to the Derbent fortress, but no forces, neither human nor heavenly, could conquer the indestructible Naryn-Kala.

Another legend comes from a distortion historical facts. In some documents the fortress is indicated under the name “Wall of Alexander the Great”. This name came from a rumor that it was built by the legendary commander, but in fact Alexander the Great never stood at the gates of Derbent.

Derbent fortress today

No one can say the exact age of the fortress. Some scientists believe that it appeared more than two thousand years ago, others argue that its walls were built at least three thousand years before the birth of Christ.

One thing is clear - the building is very ancient and needs regular restoration and reconstruction. The condition of parts of the fortress varies from ruined to average integrity. Despite the destruction, the citadel retained its outlines: powerful fortified walls, round towers with jagged roofs (there were originally 73 of them, but only half have survived to this day), long corridors and dungeons, worn-out staircases, outlines of former palaces, vaulted ceilings and domes.

During the period of activity of the fortress, there were fourteen gates within its walls, of which only nine survived. All of them are of architectural interest. The Northern Gate is especially impressive, indicating the grandeur of the structure. Their architectural image is harsh - on their “face” they bear unhealed scars, which serve as a reminder of numerous raids and attacks. The southern gate, Orta-kala, which means "middle gate", was less damaged in battle and still looks elegant and solemn.

Sasanian masonry is clearly visible in the city walls. It consists of several rows of large monolithic slabs forming the external and internal surfaces of the walls. The voids between them are filled with backfill material.

The Derbent fortress is conventionally divided into three components:

1. Naryn-Kala Citadel (the best preserved section);
2. The southern wall, the main part of which was destroyed in the 19th century;
3. The northern wall is in good condition.

The walls run parallel to each other and “compress” the old part of the city between them. The Naryn-Kala Citadel is the symbol and main attraction of Derbent. The entire fortress and each of its parts are separately protected by the state and recognized as monuments World Heritage UNESCO.

Excavations on the territory of Naryn-Kala

Over the years, archaeological campaigns were carried out on the territory of the Derbent fortress. As a result of excavations, the remains of an ancient dwelling with perfectly preserved household items were discovered.

Among the stones and soil layers, archaeologists found intact ceramic jugs, a large kitchen vessel, beautiful craftsmanship dishes, and a hearth with burnt wood and traces of flame. It seems that the owners left the house in a hurry, forgetting about things. Presumably, the reason for their flight was the difficult political situation that took place in the second half of the 5th century (the construction dates back to this period).

A coal furnace with a practical structure and well-developed design was also opened here. Decorative items made of metal, glass and stone aroused great interest: spindle weights, figurines, beads, and especially a hair pin with a bird pattern. The image is drawn schematically, but experts saw a hoopoe in it. According to ancient Eastern mythology, it was a symbol of wisdom and prudence.

During another expedition, scientists explored the foot of the fortress walls and came across the skeleton of a teenage girl. The cause of death was an attack or accident. Next to her lay an earthenware jug. The age of the find is 1500 years.

One of the most important artifacts was found in the 80s. These are two rare figurines - household idols to the god of fertility. Similar sculptures were made from the 5th to the 3rd millennium BC. It was this find that prompted scientists to believe that Derbent and its fortress could have existed 5,000 years ago.

Excursions around the fortress. Features of the visit

The fortification area is 4.5 hectares. On its territory there are many objects of tourist interest. It is impossible to go around the entire fortress at one time - in order to fully explore it and not miss anything, you can divide the excursion into several days and use the services of a local or private guide.

An experienced guide will not only show best places citadels, but will also tell Interesting Facts from their history. In addition, a well-designed route will provide clear transitions from one attraction to another, eliminating confusion and long wanderings in circles.

The order of visiting the monuments of the Naryn-Kala citadel is determined by the guide, but the list of excursions always includes the following exhibitions:

The architectural creation “Khan Baths” is located in the north-west of the Derbent fortress. They were built between the 16th and 17th centuries. This is a semi-underground room with domed vaults reaching the surface. There are special holes in the roof that served as a source of lighting.

In the Caucasus, as in the East as a whole, the bathhouse was a symbol of care, as it contributed not only to washing, but also to the restoration of vitality and good location spirit. Friendly meetings were often held in such fonts, during which men relaxed, socialized, and played backgammon and chess.

The principle of operation of the bathhouse is simple: a stove located in the basement heated the water and the stone floors of the room. The air was filled with hot steam, and the lit incense created a pleasant, relaxing atmosphere.

They say that the baths of Naryn-Kala were visited by the Great Khan: on Thursdays he bathed himself, on Fridays the wives of his harem, and on other days - the guards and servants.

There is a legend associated with the Khan’s baths, according to which a man who looked into the bath while women were there had one of his eyes gouged out with an awl. And if a woman found herself in a bathhouse with men bathing, then she was completely deprived of her sight.

Cross Reservoir

In the literature, a false origin is attributed to this monument, as if it was carved into the rock. In fact, the cistern was built from large, smoothly polished stones. The assumption that the structure functioned as a reservoir is not the only one. According to another theory, an Albanian-Christian shrine was located here. The room is deepened into the ground and divided into several rooms connected by arches.

Rectangular reservoir

A small rectangular building with solid walls without a single skylight. This type of building layout is widespread in hot countries and arid regions of Russia. There is no exact date for the construction of the reservoir. It is not mentioned in documents and does not appear in historical events.

The western gate of the fortress, also known as the “Derbent Gate”. During operation, the passage was intended for pack transportation.

In addition, help came through the gates of Dag-Kapa during the siege of the citadel, which is why they were given another name - “Secret”. The third nickname, “Shameful Doors,” arose thanks to cowardly rulers who, in times of disaster, abandoned their people and fled from the city through this passage.

The wooden gate leaves are sandwiched between two projections of the walls; on top it is marked by a characteristic jagged border.

The building appeared in 1828 for employees of the Russian garrison. Then the fortress underwent another restructuring: the territory was expanded by destroying old buildings, where new ones were built. The stone guardhouse became the last element of the reconstruction.

The architects used the landscape features of the hill where Naryn-Kala is located to their benefit. They created walking terraces, spiral steps, and supporting columns. All this provided convenience when moving to the guardhouse on the eastern side of the city.

The Khan's Palace is one of the most significant buildings of the fortress complex. The palace ensemble is not a separate element of the fortress; it literally merges with its walls, forming a single structure. Once upon a time, the royal residence was a two-story building with domes and many rooms inside.

The walls and ceilings were decorated with mirror mosaics. Shimmering in the sun, it cast iridescent reflections, and the room shone like a handful of sapphires. Unfortunately, only a fragment of the castle structure has survived to this day, but even it impresses with its grandeur and praises the skill of the architects of that era.

Also known as "Divan Khana". A two-story house was built in the highest part of the citadel in order to maintain the economy. The lower floor consists of five rooms, the upper one of four. Here there was a reception room for the ruler, people's rooms and an office where meetings were held and political issues were discussed.

Passing by, many do not pay attention to the square openings covered with bars, thinking that these are some kind of medieval hatches.

However, in ancient times, criminals sentenced to life imprisonment lived out their days behind these bars. The prison was called "Zidane". Their depth is 9 m, and the internal area is 20-25 sq. m. m. The walls of the cells were designed according to the “pyramid” principle, which deprived the prisoners of the chance to escape.

During excavations, a huge number of human skeletons were discovered at the bottom of the prisons. Apparently, the bodies of dead criminals were buried right there, covered with sand.

Not a single excursion around Naryn-Kala is complete without visiting a museum dedicated to the past of the Derbent fortress. The exhibits include artifacts found during archaeological excavations on the territory of the citadel.

Here you can see ceramics, clay jugs, armor and weapons, fragments of sarcophagi, forges, ancient coins, jewelry, as well as paintings depicting episodes from Everyday life settlers of old Derbent.

Best time to visit

The peak tourist season in Derbent is June-September. These months are characterized by dry and very hot weather (up to +40 degrees). Naryn-Kala is located on the top of a hill - an open area, unprotected from the sun. Despite the presence of shady places and stalls with refreshments, a long walk around the citadel will be very tiring. Locals It is recommended to go on an excursion after 17:00, when the heat subsides and the air becomes fresher. If you decide to travel in the middle of the day, then do not forget about dark glasses, hats and sunscreen.

Where is Naryn-Kala located on the map. How to get there

GPS coordinates for the map – 42.053065, 48.274310

Getting to the Naryn-Kala fortress is easy. The nearest public transport stop, 900 m away, is “Secondary School No. 14”, where minibuses No. 6 and No. 8 go.

By car from the center of Derbent you can get to the walls of the bastion like this:

Naryn-Kala is an architectural monument, a historical monument and a reminder of the past of the great Derbent, which has passed through millennia. A visit to the oldest landmark of the city is an opportunity to immerse yourself in its history, become imbued with it and mentally transport yourself to distant eras, the memories of which are preserved by the ancient walls of the “Solar Tower”.

Reading in history books about the times when an entire city could literally be locked up, few believe that some of these cities have survived to this day. Derbent is a city that lived for several thousand years, surrounded along its entire perimeter by the stone walls of the Naryn-Kala fortress.

The citadel itself is located at the top of the Dzhalgansky ridge, at the foot of which the city lies. The massive walls of the fortress, three meters wide, stretch for 42 kilometers on both sides of Derbent, ending in the Caspian Sea. Reaching 500 meters into it, they created an excellent protective harbor.

Thus, the fortress walls seemed to enclose the city in their embrace, which saved ancient Derbent more than once.

The Naryn-Kala Citadel is a clear indication of the global nature of the era of raids, when no city was able to survive without the construction of powerful defensive structures. In the entire territory of the Middle East, Naryn-Kala is the only surviving fortress of this scale.

Naturally, the city is constantly growing, and within the fortress walls it is already crowded, so new buildings began to be built outside the fortress walls.

15 centuries of colorful history

Various fortifications arose on the site where the Naryn-Kala fortress is now located. Derbent has seen walls since the 7th century BC. But, only in the 6th century AD. Clay structures replaced powerful stone walls. Erected by order of Shah Khosrow, the fortress became the residence of the Persian Shah's trusted representatives, the so-called governors in the Caucasus.

The location for the construction of the fortification was not chosen by chance. Derbent was of great importance in trade affairs - many caravans of traders along the famous Silk Road passed through it. The location of the city in a rather narrow passage between the Caspian Sea and the Caucasian foothills made it possible to build a fortification that protected the Sasanian Empire from a possible invasion of northern nomads.

Over its 15-century history, the fortress helped the residents of Derbent repel the attacks of the armies of such military leaders, to whom many states submitted. However, the Roman Empire, Byzantium, Persia, the Khazar Khaganate, the Golden Horde, the Turkish sultans and even the Russian emperors failed to either capture the fortress for a long time or destroy it.

Even ordinary travelers were impressed by its power and scale.

Many foreigners gave it their own names, but almost all of them contained the word “gate”:

• the Greeks called it the “Caspian Gate”;
• the Arabs said “Bab-al-Abwa” - “Main Gate”;
• Georgians called it “Dzgvis Kari” - “Sea Gate”;
• The Turks believed that this was “Temi Kapisy”, that is, “Iron Gate”.

There is nothing strange in this - there were a large number of strong doors in the fortress walls, through which it was simply impossible to enter unnoticed. The gates were opened exclusively for those who came in peace.

For many centuries, Naryn-Kala served to perform military functions. Only in 1813, when it passed into the possession of the Russian Empire, did its purpose lose relevance.

Soaring over Derbent

Naryn-Kala can be seen from anywhere in Derbent. We can say that this is its high-altitude dominant, because in addition to the fact that it already stands on a mountain ridge, before its construction, an additional multi-meter embankment was made on the hill. Thus, the view from the fortress is not even a bird's eye view, it is an illuminated panorama.

The walls of the citadel consist of slabs laid in two rows, the space between which was filled with backfill. The weight of the stones, as well as their filigree cutting and tight fit to each other, made it possible to lay them without fastening with mortar. Only the backfill was held together with lime mortar.

Observation towers, of which there were more than 70 in the fortress, are located at a distance of 20 meters from each other. Required the most thorough protection West Side fortresses On the northern side, the presence of towers and special fortifications were not required, since there were natural mountain barriers there. The walls of the fortress and tower have been preserved almost completely.

The two gates of the fortress have also been preserved almost in their original form. East Gate are considered the main ones: they were opened for khans, honored guests, and today they are open for tourists. The Western Gate, also known as the “secret” or “shameful” gate, was intended in case the ruler had to escape from the invaders into the mountains. Entering these gates was also considered a kind of humiliation.

The only one of the honorary guests of the fortress who entered it through these gates was Peter l. This was during his Persian campaign in the summer of 1722. After examining Derbent and its surroundings, Peter found himself at Naryn-Kala precisely from the western gate. Not wanting to waste time in order to go around the fortress and enter through the front gate, he ordered this one to be opened for him. When he was informed that this gate was considered “shameful,” he replied: “Some gate cannot disgrace someone like me!” Naturally, no one dared to object to the king.

The four courtyards of the fortress have different levels, each of which was intended for specific purposes.

1. Khan's Palace. The three-story building is located in the courtyard near the main gate. This room with unusual stained glass windows now houses a museum, but once these were the chambers of the khan. This also included the building of the Khan's office. All issues of national importance were resolved here, and sessions of the Khan’s court were also held.

2. Zindan. While the Khan's court was in session, the criminal was put in a pit called the “small zindan.” It is located in close proximity to the building, and the defendant could hear the entire trial and sentencing. If the verdict was guilty, the defendant was transferred to the “big zindan” - death row.

In one of the courtyards, at a depth of 9 meters underground, there is a prison cell measuring 20 meters. The zindan's room is shaped like a jug with a narrow neck and a lid, from which it is simply impossible to get out. No one who fell into zindan ever returned back, dying there. Of course, no one was going to pull the corpses of dead prisoners out of the zindan, so in order to get rid of the stench, ailanthus leaves were planted around it. They have a strong odor that drives away insects and disinfects the space.

3. Reservoirs. A properly thought-out and well-functioning water supply for the fortress made it possible to withstand a long-term state of siege. Water from mountain springs flowed through special underground channels into special reservoirs. One of these reservoirs was a room located at a depth of ten meters and made in the shape of a cross, clearly indicating different directions of the world. Modern scientists suggest that initially, even before the advent of Islam in the Caucasus, this room was located on the surface and was an Orthodox church. Then it was abandoned and the cultural layers gradually submerged it. By the way, even today on the territory of Naryn-Kala you can drink cold spring water from the source.

4. Khan's baths. The white domes of the khan's baths seem to lie on the ground. But in reality, these are vaults of large underground rooms. Under the floors of the Khan's baths there were ceramic pipes through which steam circulated. By the way, such a system can be considered a prototype of the modern “warm floor” system. Lighting into the bathhouse came from the dome openings. The ruler visited the bathhouse not only for washing. Here he played chess, decided on some state issues and could even receive foreign ambassadors.

The Naryn-Kala Citadel represents Dagestan as its calling card; it is a popular tourist and cultural site, a place that they try to show to every guest of the republic. Many historical figures, having visited these places, described the Derbent fortress in their works and travel notes. Marco Polo, Afanasy Nikitin, Adam Olearius, Alexander Bestuzhev-Marlinsky and even the popular French writer Alexandre Dumas remembered her in his work “Journey to the Caucasus.”

Naryn-Kala is a living historical monument, showing a good example of resilience to any life situations.