Mount Kailash: the mysterious and unconquered peak of Tibet. Are there any other unconquered mountain peaks anywhere? Machapuchare - forbidden peak, sacred abode of Shiva

Nothing attracts a person more than the forbidden. Any taboo has always, in all centuries, acted on daring minds in the same way - as an elementary challenge. How do you think the very existence of “unconquered peaks” affects a professional climber? Answer: awakens desire. Tourists and amateurs have a different reaction: curiosity arises, why hasn’t a person set foot on them yet? In this article we will talk in detail and interestingly about this mountain, and you can see it in person in the Annapurna region.

Machapuchare - forbidden peak, sacred abode of Shiva

Mount Machapuchare (or Machapuchre - there are certain “difficulties” in Nepali spelling) is freely located in the very heart of central Nepal, near the city of Pokhara (distance - about 25 km to the North). The mountain belongs to the southern part mountain range Annapurna group and just barely falls short of the seven-thousander class, because its 6,998 meters are already difficult to classify as a real six-thousander, but, as they say, a fact is a fact.

Why is Machapuchare so famous?

• Incredibly beautiful appearance. Anyone who has seen the mountain at least in photographs, not to mention in person, will agree with this. Its double peak has such a pronounced and steep peak that it seems to pierce the defenseless sky. When you find yourself on the western side of Machapuchare, you will be able to understand why it is called the “Fish Tail” (literal translation). A little imagination - and you will clearly see the shape of the tail of a huge fish, with fins on twin tops. A crystal white, shining haze of a snow shawl envelops the mountain from time to time, further emphasizing the viewer’s attention on the greatness, confident power and even mythical strength of the mountain.

• The mountain is still considered unconquered. Not only is it really unusually difficult to climb, but in 1957 the Nepalese government made an unequivocal decision - to close Mount Machapuchare to mountaineering due to its religious value for the local population, who consider the mountain the sacred home of Shiva himself, and the snowy haze on its top - the aura of his divine essence. By the way, we saw such an aura during the trek to Annapurna Base Camp in October 2014. A very fascinating and unusual sight! See for yourself in the photo.

Making an unauthorized attempt to climb the mountain means not only not giving a damn about the religious feelings of the Nepalese, but also violating a clear administrative norm of the law, which entails strict liability. (For those curious, it should be noted that the death penalty does not threaten - abolished in 1990, but Section XIX of the Nepalese Criminal Code is devoted to religious crimes, for which you are unlikely to simply be severely reprimanded).

• Machapuchare has a twin brother, the Matterhorn (Alps), so many people want to compare them in person. The mechanism is simple: I saw one mountain -> I was amazed -> I learned that there was another one very similar in appearance in the world -> I decided to check it out personally. See for yourself: is there any similarity or not?

• Additional attention to Machapuchara is drawn to the nearby Annapurna First Base Camp, the so-called Annapurna Sanctuary. This mountain valley of amazing beauty is famous place mountain tourism, a source of inspiration, a conqueror of human hearts and souls.

Is it really true that no human has ever set foot on the top of Machapuchare?

The fact that the mountain is closed for climbing does not mean that no one has ever tried to climb this amazing peak. Official sources It is vociferously asserted that in all history there was only one unfinished attempt by a British expedition to climb the mountain. What is noteworthy is that this was done in the same year when the official ban on climbing was adopted, in the same 1957. However, there are rumors among climbers that a well-known solo adventurer from New Zealand named Bill Denz in the 1980s conquered this mountain at his own peril and risk. Rumor has it that he managed to climb several more mountain peaks prohibited by law. Being a secretive person, he took the secret of the reality of his ascent to Machapuchare with him to another world when he was caught in an avalanche in 1983 during his next adventure. In fairness, it must be said that there are still some legal, little-known inhabitants of the mountain slopes of Machapuchare, who can safely walk along the slopes of the mountain. These are Tibetan long-eared hedgehogs that live here and nowhere else, and seeing them is already a great success.

The attempt to climb Machapuchare in 1957 in detail

Talking about Machapuchara and not telling about the British expedition of 1957 is a crime. Therefore, it is worth telling in a nutshell about their achievement, which is described in detail and artistically in the book “Climbing the Fish’s Tail” (1958) by one of the real participants in that ascent, Wilfrid Noyce.

The most difficult and the most dangerous route, chosen by the expedition, was the most optimal and most acceptable of all the alternatives. The beginning of the ascent attempt is dated 04/18/1957 from Pokhara and 06/02/1957 the climbers gave up because they had lost the exact coordinates of the desired peak, there was heavy snowfall, and the transition to a steep slope after a crack in the snow-ice slope (bergschrund) was almost insurmountable, and standing behind it the sheer wall was entirely made of ice. A whim of nature drove the climbers from the top, because their further ascent was more than a certain threat to their lives.

A real sensation in the mountaineering community was the publication in many newspapers in 1957 of texts that Machapuchare had been conquered. However, this is not true, because the British climbers were unable to overcome the last 50 meters to the peak. It was precisely that they could not overcome, and did not proactively stop, so as not to hurt the religious feelings of the residents. You can imagine how offended it was for the climbers who were one step away from the accomplishment, but it would have been counted towards them if they had climbed to the top without reaching the conventional height (for example, the “officially perfect” ascent of Kanchenjunga in 1955 was stopped 1.5 meters from the top as a sign of reverence and respect for the local religion).

That’s how it all ended, but believers find sacred meaning in it. They say that unwanted guests in Shiva’s house should be glad that they returned alive! Doesn’t anyone understand that this is a lesson for everyone who follows! Who does not know the truth that lessons should be correctly understood and responded to adequately? As a result, from now on, not a single living soul will climb the mountain!

We don’t offer you to climb to the top of Machapuchare, but you can have a good look at it from all sides and take photographs from different angles in our following programs:

Schedule of upcoming treks in Nepal, join us!

Start	Finish	Route	Price	Days
09.03.2020	20.03.2020	Trekking to Annapurna Base Camp - Annapurna Trek	750 $	12 days
10.03.2020	27.03.2020		880 $	18 days
22.03.2020	05.04.2020	Trekking to Everest Base Camp	770 $	15 days
07.04.2020	24.04.2020		880 $	18 days
09.04.2020	31.05.2020	Climbing Everest 2020	21500 $	53 days
09.04.2020	31.05.2020	Climbing Lhotse 2020	16500 $	53 days
11.04.2020	25.04.2020

On July 31, 1954, only 52 years after the first ascent attempt, one of the most difficult mountain peaks to climb, K2, finally fell before the climbers. Against this background, we recall other stunning peaks, for various reasons still unconquered.

The most beautiful mountain peak, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out clearly against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the mercy of the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition, led by Jimmy Roberts, stopped just fifty meters from the summit. Conquer one of the most beautiful mountains The Himalayas were thwarted by a promise made to the Nepalese government. The point is that in Hindu beliefs, it is at the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of the religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that Roberts' team kept its promise, Nepal's top officials immediately closed Machapuchare to any visits.

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered sacred mountain among representatives of four major religions at once - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the Chinese government, which occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not yet allowed it to be conquered. All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who received permission from the Chinese authorities to conquer Kailash, subsequently abandoned the climb, and the Spanish expedition of 2000, which bought a pass for a significant sum, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route and protests from the UN.

Highest unconquered peak world, rising above sea level to more than seven and a half thousand meters. Located on the disputed territory between Bhutan and China, it could have been conquered by the Japanese expedition in 1998 if official Beijing had nevertheless issued permission to climb. The Japanese eventually climbed to nearby Liancang Kangri. Gangkhar Puensum could have fallen earlier, when mountaineering was already allowed in Bhutan, but a ban on visiting peaks above six thousand meters had not yet been introduced (again for religious reasons). However, the expeditions of 1985 and 1986 ended unsuccessfully.

The peak, which reaches 7,207 meters into the sky, is also located on the constantly disputed Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiabu, even before the law “everything above six thousand is prohibited.” After him, of course, and even more so. At the same time, the Korean expedition took neighboring Shimokangri, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.

This mountain, whose peak is at an altitude of 7221 meters, has not yet succumbed to human persistence, not only because of certain difficulties with which Western expeditions obtain climbing permits from China. Karjiang is now considered one of the most difficult and unruly peaks in the world - high technical complexity and an extremely high risk of avalanches, coupled with constantly unfavorable weather conditions More than one expedition was stopped along the way.

Being in politically disputed territory (Pakistan's Kashmir) poses no particular problems for climbers seeking to storm this unruly peak. But the mountain itself, which is by no means the highest (6979 meters above level) of the Baltoro Muztagh ridge, gives expeditions much more problems than K2, which is the highest high peak this mountain formation. Quite a few experienced climbers have tripped over Gasherbrum 6.

Despite its modest height, barely exceeding three thousand meters above sea level, the Antarctic Siple volcano remains on the list of unconquered peaks of the world. Apart from its geographical inaccessibility, which, for example, did not prevent climbers from climbing Erebus, any additional difficulties in climbing to the top are unknown.

Near Mount Kailash, travelers experience completely new sensations that they did not know before. Some feel good and it seems as if everything around beautiful place on earth, they are no longer afraid of anything, the surrounding place begins to frighten others and seem to push them away, many are speechless. Someone says that if you ask a question that worries you not far from this mountain, you will be able to solve it easily and in a non-standard way.

Mythical Frontier

For representatives of Buddhism and Hinduism for several centuries in Tibet there is sacred mountain- Kailash. At night, when the peak is shrouded in clouds, you can notice how a light white light pours from the very high point down. Some tourists describe luminous figures on the slopes of the mountain, similar to the swastika symbol. Sometimes at dusk, strange luminous balls are noticed above the mountain, which vaguely resemble ball lightning. But these balls draw strange signs in the air.

Recently, in addition to pilgrims, dozens of expeditions have been flocking to the mountain, people dreaming of conquering the snowy peak. However, something special happens to each of them: a mythical line arises in front of someone, which he cannot cross, no matter how much he wants to. For others, as soon as they touch the mountain, their palms become covered with blisters.

Amazing and geographical position Mount Kailash: it is remote from North Pole at 6666 km, from the South Pole to the foot of the mountain the distance is twice as large, but to Stonehenge is also 6666 km.

However, physically the mountain rarely resists climbers; avalanches and rockfalls are rare here. Nevertheless, all tourists of their own free will refuse to climb up literally after 300-400 meters. Only the most outcast people can be near the sacred mountain.

The Legend of the "Stone Mirrors"

Even in planes flying over Kailash, equipment stops working, compass needles spin in different directions. On a mountain diagram, the so-called stone mirrors, which change the course of time, concentrating energy differently than on earth.

However, there is a sacred road along the mountain that can be reached. There is a legend that tells about two travelers who turned off the sacred road while climbing Mount Kailash; after returning to their village, in just a few months, the young people aged 60 years and died. Doctors then could not find any visible reason for this withering.

Recently, thanks to experiments, it was revealed that in 12 hours at Mount Kailash, people’s nails and hair grow as much as they would grow under normal conditions for two to three weeks.

Near the foot of the mountain is the “Heavenly Cemetery”, where the corpses of Tibetans are carried out so that their bodies are eaten by vultures. Such a funeral is considered favorable for the soul of the deceased.

Gangkhar Puensum is the most high mountain in Bhutan with a height of 7,570 meters, as well as the 40th highest peak in the world. Many will be very surprised that Gangkhar Puensum still remains unconquered when most of the peaks in the Himalayas were conquered decades ago.

The summit of Gangkhar Puensum lies on the border of Bhutan and Tibet, although the exact boundary is disputed. Chinese maps placed the peak right on the border, while other sources placed it entirely in Bhutan. When the mountain was first mapped in 1922, maps of the area were woefully inaccurate. Even more recently, maps of the area showed the summit in different locations and marked with different heights. One of the first teams that decided to conquer the peak could not find the mountain at all.


Bhutan only opened itself to mountaineering in 1983, as the mountains were considered the abode of sacred spirits. When the country finally opened its doors to climbers, a series of expeditions were organized. Between 1985 and 1986, four ascent attempts were made that ended in failure. The decision to take up mountaineering did not last long. In 1994, the government banned climbing mountains above 6,000 meters, and since 2004, mountaineering in the country has been completely prohibited, out of respect for local customs.


In 1998, a Japanese expedition received permission from the Chinese Mountaineering Association to climb Gangkhar Puensum north of Bhutan, on the Tibetan side. But a long-standing border dispute with Bhutan never made it possible. Instead, the expedition went to the 7,535-meter nearby peak Gangkhar Puensum North, which had not previously been climbed. The climbers came to the conclusion that an expedition to the main peak would be successful if they were allowed to organize it.


Bhutan itself has also not explored the peak, and the country has no interest in conquering it anytime soon. With the difficulty of obtaining permits from the government, as well as the lack of rescue support, the mountain is likely to remain unclimbed in the near future.

We warn you: the article is full of beauty and aesthetics, which makes the next eight unconquered peaks even more desirable. Especially if you are an extreme sports enthusiast, love heights, and have been looking for thrills for a long time.

Gangkhar Puensum

• Height: 7,570 meters
• Location: China-Bhutan border
• Why not conquered: stupid laws

Gangkhar Puensum lies on the disputed border between China and Bhutan. It is certainly not disputed that Gangkhar Puensum is the highest peak yet unclimbed. Four attempts were made in the 1980s, after which Bhutan passed a law prohibiting mountaineering at altitudes above 6 km.

Source: wikipedia.org

North Face of Masherbrum 4

• Height: 7.821 m
• Location: Pakistan
• Why not conquered: extreme difficulty

Masherbrum was conquered back in 1960 along a fairly simple route. But there is a wall that no one has ever climbed. The reason is still the same - the route is “unrealistically extreme”.

Source: supercoolpics.co

Mount Siple

• Height: 3,110 m
• Location: Siple Island, Antarctica
• Why not conquered: harsh climate

This peak is located in Antarctica, and the main difficulty in conquering it is not the route, but the low temperature and distance from the civilized world. It is suspected that Mount Siple is actually an extinct volcano covered by a glacier.

Source: wikipedia.org

Machapuchare

• Height: 6,998 m
• Location: north central Nepal;
• Why it was not conquered: religion and law

The most beautiful mountain peak, thanks to its steep slopes, stands out clearly against the background of the rest of the massif called Annapurna, once almost surrendered to the mercy of the courage of climbers. The 1957 expedition, led by Jimmy Roberts, stopped just fifty meters from the summit. They were prevented from conquering one of the most beautiful mountains of the Himalayas by a promise given to the government of Nepal.

The point is that in Hindu beliefs, it is at the top of Machapuchare that one of the supreme deities of the religion, Shiva, lives. Despite the fact that Roberts' team kept its promise, Nepal's top officials immediately closed Machapuchare to any visits.

Source: green-travel.biz

Kailash

• Height: 6.638 m
• Location: Southern Tibetan Plateau in the Tibet Autonomous Region of the People's Republic of China
• Why not conquered: “sacred” status

The Tibetan six-thousander is considered a sacred mountain by representatives of four major religions - Hindus, Buddhists, Jains and adherents of a faith called Bon. Despite the fact that Kailash is under the jurisdiction of the Chinese government, which occupied Tibet, it is the sacred status of the peak that has not yet allowed it to be conquered.

All known attempts to climb the mountain have failed for one reason or another. For example, the famous climber Reinhold Messner, who received permission from the Chinese authorities to conquer Kailash, subsequently abandoned the climb, and the Spanish expedition of 2000, which bought a pass for a significant sum, was stopped by thousands of pilgrims who blocked the route and protests from the UN.

Source: wikipedia.org

Tongshanjiabu

• Height: 7,207 m
• Location: Central Himalayas, 12 km northwest of Kangphu Kang
• Why not conquered: laws

The peak, which reaches 7,207 meters into the sky, is also located on the constantly disputed Tibetan-Bhutanese border. Not a single attempt was made to climb Tongshanjiabu, even before the law “everything above six thousand is prohibited.” After him, of course, and even more so. At the same time, the Korean expedition took neighboring Shimokangri, which was lucky to find itself completely on the Chinese side.