Chateau de Saumur in France: a monastery, an impregnable fortress, a palace and a luxurious prison. Saumur Castle in France: a monastery, an impregnable fortress, a palace and a luxurious prison Entertainment and attractions of Saumur

Address: France, city of Saumur
Start of construction: 10th century
Completion of construction: 16th century
Coordinates: 47°15′25″N,0°4′21″W
Main attractions: south and west towers (13th century), castle museums, interior decoration castle

Content:

Short description

Speaking about the beautiful and unusual architectural masterpieces located in the picturesque Loire Valley, one cannot fail to highlight the Saumur Castle. A castle that looks like a sorcerer’s home or a haunted house.

Despite its unique, one might even say fabulous and slightly frightening appearance, this structure has never been inhabited by people inhabited by supernatural abilities and signs have never been recorded paranormal activity. To be fair, it is worth noting that Saumur produces a gloomy impression only from afar; when approaching it, you realize that in front of you rises one of the most beautiful architectural structures, which became the model for all buildings in the city of the same name.

View of Saumur Castle from the Loire River

To visit the Saumur castle, a traveler should go to the French department of Maine-et-Loire, to the place where the waters of the legendary Loire and Thue meet. This territory is considered the center of France; many guides affectionately call it the “heart of the country.” It is no coincidence that an unusual castle was built among virgin nature, with a complex history and its own secrets, which, unfortunately, have not been revealed by modern scientists. What is known for certain is that the name of the city and the castle comes from a Latin phrase, which when translated into Russian would mean “a small fort among the swamps.” Thanks to its unusual architectural form and interesting story, the Chateau de Saumur is one of the most visited attractions in the Loire Valley.

Almost every day, even when the sky is covered with clouds, near the structure, which has the shape of an irregular quadrangle, you can always meet numerous groups of tourists who want to touch the world of beauty and see a real masterpiece built according to official version historians in the 10th century. Looking ahead a little, I would like to note that it is not known for certain when “a small fort among the swamps” appeared in this area.

View of the southeast side of the Chateau de Saumur

Archaeologists who conducted excavations near the castle claim that the first building appeared here much earlier, however, historians are accustomed to relying only on official documents that date back to the 10th century. This is the history of the Saumur castle, which deserves special attention and which should definitely be discussed in more detail. By the way, many tourists quite often ask the question: “Why is so much told in literature and on numerous Internet resources about the history of the castles of the Loire Valley?” There is nothing surprising about this, because it was in them that the most significant events for the country took place, and it was within their walls that the formation of France took place.

Castle of Saumur: history

As mentioned above, according to the official version, the first building on the site where the Saumur castle is now located appeared in the 10th century. The documents say that Count Tybalt the Evil, from the famous dynasty of Blois, built a monastery and fortress in the place where the Loire and Thues merge.

The small fort was supposed to protect the peace of the monks, who had left worldly life forever and devoted themselves to serving God. The fortress did not help: already at the end of the 10th, beginning of the 11th centuries, the buildings were conquered by the Count of Anjou. Moreover, in 1203, the already significantly expanded castle of Saumur became part of the lands belonging to the king.

View of the castle entrance and south tower

After the signing of the Treaty of Vendôme, which resulted in the loss of Anjou and Angers to France, Blanche of Castile decided to rebuild the castle into an impregnable fortress. However, already in 1360, Louis I decided to transform Saumur into a luxurious country residence. By order of the crowned person, the architect decided not to demolish the fortifications, but only to improve them and add decorative elements. For this reason, the castle began to resemble a unique combination of a palace and a powerful fortification.

True, the most ambitious work on the structure in the Loire Valley was carried out in the period 1454 to 1473. Almost all the old buildings were demolished: all that remained of the palace-fortress was the room where prayers were offered to God and two rooms in the square tower. One can only guess what Saumur looked like in those days. The thing is that in 1589 the King of Navarre again rebuilt the castle into a fortress. The court engineer Bartolomeo, spending colossal sums from the treasury, erects a huge fortress wall with high towers, in which soldiers from the royal garrison kept watch. By the way, the wall, built under the leadership of Bartolomeo, currently “protects” the courtyard of the Saumur castle from prying eyes.

Entrance to Saumur Castle

The Chateau de Saumur was constantly rebuilt and changed its owners, and since 1621 it has become, like many castle-fortresses... a prison. True, this prison was somewhat unusual: it did not have gloomy dungeons or torture rooms. Criminals who had fallen out of favor with the king served their sentences in excellent conditions in the rooms of the castle. Counts and dukes from the legendary dynasties were not limited in movement; moreover, they often attended receptions and social events, while being considered prisoners of the Saumur castle. The famous admiral Kerguelen managed to visit the “dungeons” of the amazing castle of the Loire Valley. For two weeks, in the architectural masterpiece, which had already been a monastery, a fortress and a palace, the famous Marquis de Sade served his sentence for his dissolute behavior and seduction of court beauties.

The first restoration work in the castle was carried out in 1814: the architects “equipped” new chambers in the northeastern wing of Saumur. Surprisingly, as soon as all work on the restoration of the prison-fort was completed, the provisional government of France issued a decree stating that all prisoners of the castle must be immediately released. Since the end of the 19th century, the castle of Saumur was no longer considered a fortress or a prison: it was included in the list of... historical sites of France subject to protection.

View of the castle's southern and eastern round towers

The 20th century has arrived: the authorities of the city of the same name decide to buy their main attraction from the state. The government of the country met Saumur halfway and transferred the amazing castle into his possession for only 2,500 francs.

After such a joyful event, the local Academy of Fine Arts decides to once again restore the castle. During the work carried out, specialists discovered in the basements and secret rooms a bunch of unique items interior: beautiful fireplaces made by the best craftsmen back in the 14th century, stained glass decoration of the chapel, which by that time was considered irretrievably lost. After the restoration was completed, the Municipal Museum was opened on the second floor of Saumur.

Saumur Castle: a brief reminder for tourists

If a traveler decides to visit the legendary Loire Valley, famous throughout the world for its castles, he should definitely see Saumur. Its amazing architectural forms will delight any guest of the country. Nowadays, only the eastern tower of the castle is a copy: the southern and western ones are original architectural masterpieces built back in the 13th century.

Bridge to Saumur Castle

By the way, the Chateau de Saumur in France became the prototype for the fairytale Palace of Love, described in the novel entitled “A Heart Captured by Love.” This work was written by the king nicknamed Rene the Good, who was part of the dynasty of the Counts of Anjou.

For tourists, the castle opens its doors in spring and autumn from 10 am to 5 pm. The break lasts from 13-00 to 14-00. In season (summer) Saumur is open from 10 am to 6 pm. In winter, the castle (like many architectural masterpieces of the Loire Valley) is closed to visitors.

3 things to do in Saumur:

1. Form an opinion about the local wines prepared using the “soft” sparkling method: whites from Chenin blanc grapes, sometimes with the addition of chardonnay or sauvignon blanc; as well as pink and red.
2. Be sure to go to Montsoreau Castle, which is located downstream of the Loire, about 12 km from Saumur. It was here that the romantic and dramatic events of the novel between Count de Bussy and Countess Monsoreau developed, which A. Dumas shamelessly distorted in his book.
3. On the way to the castle, turn into the village of Parne, which is right on the highway. The main pride of the village is dried apples, and you can not only buy them for future use, but also visit the underground museum of them on a guided tour. Or, more traditionally, buy sparkling red Saumur-Champigny from the cellars of the Marsonnet castle.

A little history

The heart around which the city grew, and the central tourist attraction in Saumur, is, of course, the large white stone castle on the hill. Its outlines will seem vaguely recognizable to those interested medieval fortresses: The image of the castle in the Magnificent Book of Hours of the Duke of Berry became a postcard of sorts back in the Middle Ages. The history of the castle, as usual, begins with a 10th century fortress and a monastery. In the 14th century, King Louis I himself had his eye on the castle, on whose order the austere fortress was decorated, making it more secular, but already in the 14th century a new major reconstruction followed. In the 15th century, the Duke of Anjou settled in the castle, in the 16th - Henry of Navarre, the same “Henri the Fourth” from the song (and from the books of A. Dumas). It was here that Henry fled from Paris from the Valois court and hastily rebuilt the castle into powerful fortification for protection from your enemies. By the 17th century, the role of Saumur in the history of the country ceased to be significant, and prisoners of noble blood began to be kept in the castle. And in the 20th century, the city bought the castle from the government of the country and carried out a large-scale restoration of it.

Today, by paying a little more, visitors can not only climb the tower, but also go down into the former casemates in the dungeons. And on the upper floors of the castle there are two museums: a museum of decorative and applied arts with a wonderful collection of tapestries and porcelain dishes, and a cavalry museum on the floor above. Here it is interesting to examine ancient parts of harnesses from different countries.

For a quarter of a century in a row, from the mid-18th century, the Academy of Cavalry was located in Saumur, and later the Academy of the Armed Forces. Oddly enough, this gave a good impetus to the development of the city, which was depopulated and fell into decay after the Huguenot wars. The Carabinieri opened a riding school in the city, which became very popular, and since then the cavalry has had a special place in the city. During the Second World War, it was the cavalry cadets, many of whom were not yet twenty, who valiantly, although briefly, defended the city. For the courage with which the city resisted the Germans, Saumur was awarded the Military Cross.

Entertainment and attractions of Saumur

The city's oldest church is Notre-Dame de Nantilly, the city's main temple for centuries. Today the church is located winter Garden, and inside there is an interesting collection of tapestries. Also notable among the city's churches is Saint-Pierre in the Gothic style, decorated with many images of monsters in the Old Town. Near the church on the square of the same name there are several remarkable restored half-timbered buildings. Also interesting is the North-Dame des Ardiers in the east, whose dome was damaged by bombing in 1940, but has now been restored. Other historical landmarks in the city include the medieval Gothic Town Hall from the 16th century and the nearly half-kilometer-long arched Cessart Bridge over the Loire, built in the 18th century.

Definitely a very popular place in Saumur is the House of Wine, where you can not only try it, but also find out where in the city to buy wines of this or that variety, and where to sit in the evening in pleasant company. Well, if you seriously intend to get the most complete impression of the wine riches of the region, it is worth going south, to the suburb of Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, where there is a wine-making cooperative with cellars of enormous size and capacity.

You can touch the cavalry past at the National Equestrian School in the east of Saumur. You can take a tour of the school, look at the stables, and in the morning you can see dressage horses. Also in the eastern part of the city there is a tank museum (historically it is believed that tank units also belong to the cavalry).

A couple of kilometers south of the city is the village of Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent, famous for its wine cellars. They are worth a visit to taste and buy excellent Saumur Brut. And at the same time - go to the museum of masks, which children really like, and the museum of mushrooms - the latter suits interesting excursions for mushrooms underground caves, from where more than half of the champignons come to the kitchens of French gourmets. And just a few steps away is the “Stone and Light” park of model architecture.

By the way, the caves of the region are quite a popular attraction. The limestone hills of the Loire Valley were easily eroded, forming many chambers in the low cliffs. These chambers served as homes not only for primitive people, but also for the medieval inhabitants of the region: in the 12th century, up to half of the locals used them as natural homes, and many of the caves remained as such until the period between the two wars. The most famous “cave” place in the region is Rochemenier. Arriving here, you will be surprised at how the businesslike French have transformed these places: restaurants and cafes are open in the caves, there is a chapel, wine stocks and wine presses are stored here, mushrooms are grown and oil is pressed.

Traditional Saturday market in Saumur

Other interesting caves nearby are the semi-underground zoo and serpentarium near Douai-la-Fontaine and Denez-sous-Duai with numerous human figures engraved on the walls, not always in decent poses (though not prehistoric, but created by sectarians in the 16th century as a cynical mockery over Catholic doctrine). You can see everything at once by booking an organized excursion along the so-called “Troglodyte Path”.

The city itself was once a stronghold of Protestantism in the region, allowing the city to flourish during the Edict of Nantes on religious freedom.

Of all the comfortable towns along the Loire, Saumur is the most elegant, with its graceful castle, refreshing sparkling wine and 250-year-old military connection. The city still preserves the aristocratic French Cavalry Academy and its successor, the Academy's Tank Corps, so that from time to time in Saumur you can see officers in uniform walking. Once you've seen the Chateau de Saumur and its sparkling wine cellars, there's not much to do here. But Saumur itself is a convenient place to drive around the beautiful province to the west, or head east towards the province.

Saumur weather:

History of Saumur:

Saumur reached its valerian apogee during the reign of King René, and later, in the 16th century, earned itself notoriety as a Protestant fortress - a frightened Louise of Bourbon, abbess of the Fontevraud monastery, called Saumur a "second Geneva" - as a potential rival to this stronghold of Calvinism in Switzerland. Henry IV's ruler of Saumur and "Protestant Pope," Philippe Duplessis-Mornay, helped issue the Edict of Nantes, which granted freedom of religion. He also founded the Protestant Academy in Saumur, whose students and teachers supported the miniature economy and cultural boom in the city: the riding school at the academy attracted Protestants from even England and Holland.

When the Edict of Nantes was revoked in 1685, the Protestant population was forced to leave the city, and Saumur itself survived only through river trade.

In 1767, Minister Choiseul moved the national riding school to Saumur, ensuring the preservation of the city's equestrian tradition. The school was expanded in 1824 and renamed the "Royal School of Cavalry" (École Royale de Cavalerie); now it is a military college with full nameÉcole d'Application de l'Armé Blindée et de Cavalerie, or Tank Corps of the Academy. Current elite school The riding school of Saumur, the École d'Équitation, is a civic institute located in the suburbs.

In the 19th century, local merchants became rich thanks to the textile industry. Balzac's satirical heroine, reflecting the provincial-bourgeois society of Saumur, "Eugenie Grande", did not leave the best mark on the city's reputation, but heroic defense The Loire in 1940 returned prestige to the city.

Today, Saumur's prosperity rests on its thriving wine industry, tourism and horse riding.

Getting to Saumur:

Saumur Station:

• Gare SNCF Avenue David d'Angers 49400 Saumur
• Opening hours: Mon - Sat 4:30 - 23:00, Sun and holidays. 4:30 - 00:15
• Ticket offices: Mon - Sat 5:55 - 20:00, Sun and holidays. 8:05 – 21:45

Train schedule to Saumur:

• Travaux Ligne 14 Les Sables d Olonne - La Roche sur Yon - Bressuire - Saumur du 20-11-19 au 15-12-19 (PDF, 331.66 Ko)Mise à jour le 21 November 2019.
• Horaires Ligne 14 Les Sables d Olonne - La Roche sur Yon - Bressuire - Saumur du 06-07-19 au 14-12-19 V2 du 17-07-19 (PDF, 307.91 Ko)Mise à jour le 17 juillet 2019.
• Mise à jour le 22 August 2019.
• Horaires Ligne 26 Le Mans - La Flèche - Saumur du 06-07-19 au 14-12-19 V1 du 03-07-19 (PDF, 1.7 Mo)Mise à jour le 07 August 2019.
• Affiche Horaires Ligne 14 Les Sables d'Olonne - La Rochr-sur-Yon - Bressuire - Saumur du 15-12-2019 au 12-04-2020 V2 (PDF, 439.68 Ko)Mise à jour le 02 December 2019.
• Horaires Ligne 26 Le Mans - La Flèche - Saumur du 15-12-19 au 03-07-20 (PDF, 1.65 Mo)Mise a jour le 28 November 2019.

Train Saumur - Angers:

• Travel time: 21 - 33 minutes
• Ticket: standard ticket - 9.10 €.
• Schedule:
  • Horaires ligne 19 Nantes - Angers - Saumur du 09-09-19 au 14-12-19 (PDF, 277.23 Ko)Mise à jour le 22 August 2019.

Train Saumur - Nantes:

• Travel time: 1:05 - 1:21
• Ticket: standard ticket - 22.90 €, non-refundable - 15 €.
• Schedule:
  • Horaires ligne 19 Nantes - Angers - Saumur du 09-09-19 au 14-12-19 (PDF, 277.23 Ko)Mise à jour le 22 August 2019.
  • L19 Nantes - Angers - Saumur du 15-12-19 au 05-01-20 (PDF, 426.46 Ko)Mise a jour le 28 November 2019.

Getting around Saumur:

Arriving at the Saumur station, you will find yourself on the northern bank of the Loire. Turn right onto avenue David d'Angers and either take bus #30 to the center or cross the bridge and head towards Île d'Offard on foot. From the island old bridge Pont Cessart will take you to the center of Saumur, located on south coast rivers. There is also a bus station here gare router, a few blocks away, at place St-Nicolas. The Saumur tourist office is located next to the bridge at the place de la Bilange.

The old quarter is located in the lower part of the city, between the castle and the Hôtel de Ville - the city hall, which is impossible to miss - a few steps east of the Pont Cessart.

You can rent a bicycle at Détours de Loire, 2 ave David d’Angers, near the station.

Saumur map:

Sights of Saumur:

In addition to the magnificent castle, you can stroll through the tiny quarter of the old city, described by Balzac in his novel Eugenie Grande. Unfortunately, the historical cavalry school, now called École d'Application de l'Armé Blindée et de Cavalerie, is closed to the public. But in Saumur you can admire the many churches built in different eras. Many tourists head straight to the suburbs, where, surprisingly, some of Saumur's most interesting attractions are located.

Castle of Saumur

Château de Saumur towers over the entire city. The castle houses a collection dedicated to decorative arts, painting, archeology and natural sciences. The museum - Musée des Arts Décoratifs - presents one of the best collections of porcelain in France, tapestries from the 15th to 18th centuries, and items related to horse riding. Entrance € 6, in high season (July 1 - August 31) - € 7.

The castle was originally built in the 10th century, but the current structure was erected mainly in the second half of the 14th century by Louis I, Duke of Anjou, who was trying to compete with his brothers Jean, Duke of Berry, and Charles V. Threat of looting from the English soldiers forced the masons to give it their all - they were not allowed to stop even on holidays. After the death of Rene of Anjou in 1480, the castle came into the possession of the French crown and gradually began to fall into disrepair, being used for various needs: as an arsenal, prison and ammunition warehouse.

The castle's forbidding appearance suffered in April 2001 when a large piece of the star-shaped fortifications added by Philippe Dupdessy-Mornay collapsed down towards the river. The castle itself was built on a stronger foundation, but local authorities decided to carry out a large program to restore the castle.

Visit Saumur Castle:

LOW SEASON: From April 1 to June 14 and from September 16 to November 2 from Tuesday to Sunday and on holidays 10 - 13 / 14 - 17:30.

• Full price: € 6
• Reduced: € 4
• Family ticket (2 adults and 2 children or more): 18 €
• Group ticket (from 12 people): 4.5€
• Preferential group (from 12 people): 3.5 €

• Full price: € 7
• Reduced: 5 €
• Family ticket (2 adults and 2 children): €20 (+ €1 for each additional child)
• Groups from 12 people: 5.50 €
• Free for children under 7 years old

Lower town of Saumur:

The oldest and most atmospheric quarter of Saumur is located around place St-Pierre, an ancient crossroads and the heart of the city. A couple of half-timbered houses have been preserved here from the 16th century, one façade of which is decorated with very life-like figures.

Tour Grenetière

On Rue Fourrier and the streets running south from rue Dacier, here and there there are houses from the 16th century and earlier. On rue des Païens, tower Tour Grenetière preserved from the city's 15th-century fortifications. Later it was used as a prison for those who tried to evade paying the salt tax. You can climb to the top of the tower and admire the view of Saumur from above (July and August, except Tuesdays, 10 - 13 / 14 - 17:30, 2 €).

Church of Saint-Pierre

The Church of Saint-Pierre (église St-Pierre), just to the side of rue Haute St-Pierre (9 - 12 / 14 - 17) stands out with its Counter-Reformation façade. It was built in Saumur to force the stubborn Protestant inhabitants to obey. Its unusual half-Romanesque, half-Gothic interior is quite modest, although the choir seats are lavishly carved, and a 16th-century tapestry features a colorful depiction of St. Petra.

River embankment

The river embankment was once located outside the fortress walls, bustling with river trade. These days there are only cars here, although you can stroll along the river under the fortifications.

City Hall of Saumur

Saumur City Hall (Hôtel de Ville), partly built in the 16th century, located on quai Lucien Gautier, overlooks the river. Next to it you can taste the sparkling wines of Saumur at the Maison du Vin. Local staff will give you addresses of winemakers and recommend cellars to visit.

Two of Saumur's most interesting sights, both churches, are located on the outskirts of the old town.

Notre-Dame de Nantilly

To the south of the castle stands the oldest church in the city - Notre-Dame de Nantilly(hedgehog 9–18) - where you can admire a magnificent collection of tapestries from the 16th - 17th centuries. The church itself is beautiful in its austere Romanesque style, with a wide aisle supported by 4-meter-thick walls. Don't miss the statue of the Virgin Mary, carved from wood in the 12th century, which is now on display in the right transept.

Notre-Dame des Ardilliers

Notre-Dame des Ardilliers , located down the river on the east side of the city (hedge 8 - 12 / 14 - 18.30). The church was founded on the site of a spring, now dried up, where a statue of the Pietà was miraculously found in the 15th century. The church was dedicated to Louis XIV, a typically grand Baroque structure dominated by a huge dome with a rotunda, which was rebuilt after the bombing in June 1940. The adjacent Oratory building used to belong to the theological college, created to combat the dogma of the Protestant academy. Now retired clergy live here, there is a school for girls and a small commune of nuns.

Suburbs of Saumur:

Some of Saumur's best attractions are located in the suburbs, particularly around the village St-Hilaire-St-Florent, 2 km west of the center of Saumur. This is where the best are sparkling wine cellars(Ackerman-Laurance, Bouvet-Ladubay, Langlois-Château, Gratien & Meyer and Veuve Amiot), as well as National Riding School. And near Bagneux are some of the most impressive dolmens in France. IN Musée des Blindes a huge collection of tanks has been collected.

The history of the castle begins in the early Middle Ages. In the 10th century, the owner of these places, the Count of Blois, built a small monastery and a military fort near the confluence of the Loire and Thouie rivers. It was he who laid the foundation for the castle of Saumur, named after the town closest to it. The Count of Anjou, Fulk Nerre, captured the still weak fortress from his enemy and noticeably expanded and strengthened it. Geoffroy Plantagenet was also engaged in expanding this fortification, but could not retain the acquisition for a long time, and in 1203 the French king Philip Augustus became the sovereign of the fortress and surrounding lands, annexing them to the French crown.

The fortress received serious strengthening a little later, during the regency of Blanche of Castile, who intended to use this fortification to restore French power and return Angers and Anjou to the crown. Saumur retained its military significance for only 2 years, until the moment when the role of an outpost of France began to be played by the castle of Angers, returned to the French crown and much more powerful.

Then the fate of the castle turned out differently. Louis I in 1360 began a large-scale reconstruction of the castle in order to give it the appearance of a country residence. It significantly ennobles the castle, which looks like an irregular quadrangle with towers at the corners. Thus, the fortress towers, which had a cylinder at the base, were erected by his order as octagonal. Two of the existing towers have preserved their masonry from the 13th century, and East Tower The inside is richly decorated and decorated with images of the coats of arms of the Dukes of Anjou. It should be noted that Louis does not destroy what was created by his predecessors, but somehow ennobles the structure and gives it elegance. For example, the buttresses of the towers support a sentinel belt, also made at a very high artistic level. Construction continues for quite some time. Since 1454, huge amounts of money for those times have been invested in construction. The grandson of Louis I, René, who went down in history as a king-poet, praises Saumur as the castle of Love, not skimping on colorful epithets. In his novel The Heart Captured by Love, he describes Saumur as a castle of pure crystal, standing on an emerald mountain with a roof of pure gold and ruby ​​towers. At this moment, the castle rises above the city, with high turrets and chimneys made of white stone reaching into the sky. The beauty of the castle, dominating the city, even sets the tone for the architecture of all other buildings. Very little has survived from the buildings from the time of King Rene. Just two vaulted rooms located in the tower adjacent to the main one, a chapel decorated with sculpted coats of arms on the vault. After the death of King René in 1480, the castle again became the property of the crown and a military garrison was placed in it.

But in the next century, after the Reformation, the fate of the castle changed dramatically again. In the face of aggravated religious differences, the castle of Saumur is transferred to King Henry IV, the king of Navarre, whose help the French king needed. He immediately entrusts the leadership of the castle to his ambassador Philippe Duplessis-Mornay, who immediately sends his troops into the castle. Moreover, Henry IV considers the castle as an important outpost for his further advance into the Loire Valley, and gives the order to immediately begin strengthening the fortress, regardless of costs. Under the leadership of the engineer Bartolomeo, a fortress wall with bastions grew, which still exists today. Duplessis-Mornay was not only a military man devoted to the king, but also an outstanding theologian of his time. He also glorified the castle by establishing a Protestant academy in 1593, which was famous throughout the country for almost a century. Duplessis-Mornay managed the castle for more than thirty years. But, despite his devotion to the crown, he nevertheless fell out of favor because of his religious views and in 1621 he was replaced by order of Louis XIII with a Catholic ruler. From this moment on, the castle completely loses any influence and begins to deteriorate and collapse. For the next two centuries it functions as a prison. But not quite ordinary. Representatives of the nobility served their sentences in Saumur, often accused simply by denunciation. At that time, the attitude towards noble prisoners, especially of ancient families, was more than loyal. They were allowed to have a servant with a small retinue and leave the castle. Often such prisoners were invited to celebrations in the house of the city governor. In fact, they led their usual way of life. Of the most famous prisoners, only the Marquis De Sade can be named, who stayed in the castle for two weeks. Admiral Kerguelen also “stayed” here for 4 years, for leaving his ship on the high seas, leaving all the people on the ship to the mercy of fate. It is also reliably known that during the American War of Independence, about eight hundred captured English sailors were kept in Saumur. This fact is confirmed by graffiti depicting ships left on the walls. But their conclusion, of course, was not of such a free and cloudless nature, and none of the city fathers invited the sailors to dinner.

The next restoration of the castle was undertaken from 1811 to 1814, but it was not of any cultural nature. The changes affected only the galleries of the north-eastern wing, and their essence was to divide the space into as many chambers as possible. At that time, only those prisoners who could not pay for a separate cell were kept in general cells. Apparently, a significant increase in the number of solvent “guests” was expected. Fortunately, soon after these changes were made, all prisoners were released.

Saumur a little later, in 1889, ceased to be considered a military fortress and over time received the status historical monument. The city bought it from the state for a purely symbolic sum and finally began full-scale restoration work and excavations. As a result of these works, room windows decorated with sculptural carvings, fireplaces and amazingly beautiful stained glass in the chapel were discovered. Unfortunately, much of the era of the 14th century can no longer be restored and has been lost forever.

Nowadays, since 1912, the completely restored north-eastern wing of the castle houses the Municipal Museum. Its exhibition features porcelain products from the 19th century, as well as an interesting collection of Flemish tapestries. On the third floor of the castle there is a very unusual museum horses.

In such an unusual way, the amazing fate of a unique historical monument developed. One of the most beautiful castles In France I managed to visit a fortress, a country estate, a prison and even a horse museum. But his true character was forever immortalized by the king-poet, who in his novel wrote on the roof of Saumur the motto of the true god of Love - “To a trembling heart.”

Saumur Castle (Château de Saumur) on the map of France

About the castle

Chateau de Saumur is one of the most beautiful and famous castles in the Loire. It is located in the department of Maine-et-Loire, at the confluence of the Loire and Thue rivers. The castle of Saumur has the shape of an irregular quadrangle, at the corners of which there are round towers. The western and southern towers still retain their 13th-century masonry. The eastern tower has been restored, its vault is decorated with the coats of arms of the Angevin family. Ancient and magnificent Saumur with its white towers and walls sets the tone for the architecture of the entire city, towering above it.

This castle is so beautiful that the poet-king René the Good (of Anjou) chose it to describe the castle of Love in his novel “The Heart Captured by Love.” This castle was built on an emerald rock. The walls of the castle were made of pure crystal, and at the end of each wall stood a tower made of ruby ​​stones that glowed with a bright light. The towers were covered with platinum, and the house itself was covered with tiles made of pure gold, on which the motto of the God of Love was inscribed in enamel: “To a trembling heart.” This is how King Rene described Saumur, one of the legendary castles in France.

History of the castle

In the heart of France, among vineyards and lush green meadows, he lives his quiet and measured life. ancient town Saumur. Its name comes from the Latin “sol murus”, which means “small fort in the swamps”.

The Count of Anjou recaptured this fortress from Tybalt the Evil (Count de Blois). He completed the then weak tower, expanded it, and strengthened it. The fort was then rebuilt by Geoffroy Plantagenet. And in 1203, Philip Augustus included the castle of Saumur as part of the royal lands.

According to historians, during the regency of Blanche of Castile, a powerful fortress was erected on the site of the fort so that the French Crown could regain Angers and Anjou, lost at the conclusion of the Treaty of Vendôme. Saumur was not a military fortress for long - only two years from the time of construction.

In 1360, Louis I of Anjou took possession of Saumur, and through his efforts the old, rough fortress acquired the features of a country castle. The Duke did not demolish the legacy of his ancestors, but decided only to make his own adjustments. He used the old building plan without changing it, but only supplementing it. On the basis of the round towers, he ordered the construction of polygonal ones, providing them with high buttresses that would support a sentinel belt with jagged hinged loopholes. The following changes occurred with Saumur in 1454. According to the records of the intendant and the accounts kept in the National Archives, we can say that work was carried out at the castle in the years 1454 - 1472. Their scale and grandeur can be judged by the funds spent. All that remains of the early buildings are two small vaulted rooms located in a square tower, a chapel on the second floor and an alley leading from a steep slope to the tower.

In 1480, after the death of King René, the Duchy of Anjou came into the possession of the French Crown. The castle houses the royal garrison.

A century later, in connection with the Reformation, the fate of Saumur changes dramatically. The religious wars, due to the intrigues of the League and the machinations of Spain, forced Henry III to ask for help from the King of Navarre. In Tours, an agreement was signed that Henry III would cede the castle of Saumur to the King of Navarre. The future Henry IV gave military leadership of the fortress to his friend and ambassador Philippe Duplessis-Mornay.

In 1589, on April 15, Duplessis-Mornay brought his garrison into the castle. A day later, the King of Navarre arrives in Saumur. He, rejoicing at having received such a “tidbit” of the Loire, gives the new governor the order to strengthen this place. To do this, King Bartolomeo’s engineer arrives at the fortress; he is tasked with “without skimping on anything” to draw up a design for the castle and bring it to life. He erected city fortifications, a fortress wall with battlements and watchtowers, which still surrounds the castle.

Arriving in Saumur, Mornay and his family settled in town house No. 45 on Grand Rue. But in 1596, he decides to settle in the castle due to a conspiracy of the townspeople who threatened the ambassador to seize him and commit reprisals. To bring the castle into a habitable condition, Duplessis-Mornay had to spend a considerable amount, but these costs were justified. An experienced diplomat and former military man, Mornay was also a learned theologian. And in 1593, he created a Protestant academy in the castle, which brought glory to the city for a whole century.

Despite the fact that Mornay was loyal to the Crown, in 1621 he fell from grace. Louis XIII replaced him with a Catholic ruler and from then on Saumur ceased to play an important political and military role. For two centuries it becomes a prison.

As a prison, the castle of Saumur gained great fame. People of noble birth and rank who were imprisoned due to secret denunciations were kept here. As a rule, these prisoners enjoyed a free regime - they were allowed to have a servant or a small retinue, and they could visit the city. Very often these gentlemen were invited to the table of the Lieutenant of His Highness the King, who “ruled” the settlement.

It is worth noting some people who visited the castle-prison. Admiral Kerguelen served his sentence here for four years for abandoning his ship with people on board on the high seas. The Marquis de Sade, famous for his debauchery, stayed here for two weeks before he was sent to Pierre-Ancis prison. In 1779, during the American War of Independence, 800 English prisoners languished in the castle. Most of them were sailors, which is proven by the signatures and images of ships left on the walls.

In 1811 - 1814, restoration work was carried out at the castle. At this time the entire northeast wing was divided into cells, as the engineer had received orders not to forget that the prison should have many isolated rooms. As soon as the prison began operating, the provisional government ordered the release of all prisoners.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the city of Saumur bought the castle from the state for 2,500 francs (a small amount) and decided to restore it. This idea was implemented at the expense of the city and the administration of the Academy of Fine Arts.

It was during the restoration that large fireplaces, a stained glass window in the chapel, enameled tiles, and a coin depicting Louis XIV were discovered.

Unfortunately, the restoration, which was carried out very carefully and painstakingly, was unable to recreate the splendor and elegance that were inherent in 14th-century Saumur.

In 1912, the Municipal Museum opened on the second floor of the castle. The third floor is occupied by the Equestrian Museum.

Information for tourists

Schedule:
April 01-June 30 and September 01-November 03: 10:00-13:00 / 14:00-17:30 (Tuesday to Sunday)
July 01-August 31: 10:00-18:00 (Tuesday to Sunday)

Entrance fees:
Adult - €3
Children from 7 to 16 years old - €2.50
Children under 7 years old - free.