Mont Blanc or Kazbek 4 letters. Climbing Mont Blanc from Italy or the Papal Way
- A true test of strength and excellent preparation for climbing big mountains
- Group size - 2-4 participants
- Visit to the Chamonix Mountaineering Museum and the ice cave at the Mer de Glace glacier
- Help from an experienced coordinator in preparing for the ascent.
- Two and a half reserve days in case of bad weather
- Assistance with obtaining a visa and purchasing air tickets - if necessary
- Climbing certificate and club souvenir
- 10-20% discounts on equipment in more than Ukraine and Russia (ask the coordinator for the discount code)
- Discounts on subsequent participation in any programs of the Kuloir club
Program cost from 1250€
The cost depends on the number of participants:
- 2 participants - 1700 euros
- 3 participants - 1450 euros
- 4 participants - 1250 euros
- The price includes:
- Work of a guide Couloir, for one guide up to 4 participants;
- Accommodation in Chamonix;
- All transfers in the Chamonix Valley;
- Cable car GranMonte and Aygyudumidi
- Meals during the ascent;
- Group special equipment (ropes, carabiners, ice screws);
- Group first aid kit with the guide;
- Boilers and gas equipment for cooking;
- Consultations on preparation for the trek and assistance with the selection of equipment;
- The price does not include:
- Flight and transfer to Chamonix;
- Meals in Chamonix (you can cook yourself, you can eat in a cafe - about 20 € per day)
- Personal equipment for climbing;
- Mandatory climbing insurance;
- All expenses not specified in the program (force majeure, evacuation).
The amount of additional costs depends on your wishes and the weather. Minimum 50-100€ for food in Chamonix, 60€ for transfer Geneva-Chamonix-Geneva + airfare (about 200€).
Payment procedure
Full payment for the program occurs on the first day of the trip to the guide in euros.
To reserve a place in a group you need to make a prepayment of 200€. You can do this by contacting us or through the payment form on the website>>
Important! Conditions for returning the prepayment if you refuse to participate in the program:
- More than 40 days before the start: the prepayment in full is retained on your balance or returned, minus the transfer system commission
- From two weeks to 40 days: the prepayment is returned or remains on the balance minus the actual expenses that we incurred (permits, transfers, tickets for a second guide..)
- Less than two weeks before the start: the prepayment is retained by us in full and is non-refundable
If you leave the route, money will not be returned.
Changes in the program
Depending on weather conditions, condition and general wishes of the group, the senior guide has the right to make changes to the route.
Required documents
To visit France and Italy you must have a valid Schengen or biometric passport. We will help anyone who needs a visa.
To participate in the hike, you must have no diseases that are incompatible with active tourism: .
Upcoming dates for the Mont Blanc traverse
Mont Blanc traverse by day
Day 1. Meeting in Chamonix
The guide will meet the group members in Chamonix. Today we check all the equipment (there are special requirements for it at this time of year), buy what is missing, get acquainted, and relax after the journey. We will live in a hotel in Chamonix or one of the nearby villages in the valley.
Day 2. Acclimatization trip
Today we take the Grand Montez cable car to an altitude of over 3000m and conduct training sessions. Once again we’ll go around wearing crampons, in a bunch, “have a fight”, etc. If the weather, conditions and time allow, we will climb to the top of Petite Aiguille Vert, where classes will be held. In the evening we go home, rest, and prepare to go out to the mountain.
Day 3. Climb to the Cosmique plateau
We get up early, get ready, and take the first cable car, Aiguille du Midi, to the top. From the cable car station at the top we go down to the plateau. This is our advanced base camp. Here we will, if necessary, wait out bad weather, etc. We are setting up camp. If possible, we will check the condition of the path to Mont Blanc du Tacuy.
Day 4. Departure for the traverse
We leave early, today there is a lot of movement in deep snow and glaciers. As the group moves and speeds, the guide will determine the bivouac site on the ridge of Mont Blanc.
Day 5. Traverse of the three peaks of Mont Blanc
Today we leave the assault camp lightly and move to the top. A short rest, photos and we go back to the tents. (Depending on route conditions, the guide may decide to camp over the summit and down through the Gouter and Tate Rousse huts).
Day 6. Descent
From the assault camp we descend along the already familiar path to the plateau. From here there is just a little more - the final ascent to the Aiguille du Midi station and the descent to Chamonix. If time permits, we will visit various sights of the station. Gala dinner in the evening!
Day 7. Reserve day
Depending on the speed of the group and the condition of the route, it may take another day or part of it to complete the Mont Blanc traverse.
Day 8. Reserve day in case of bad weather
We do the Mont Blanc traverse in March - these are winter conditions and winter weather. Let's leave one more reserve day.
Day 9. Home
We advise you to book plane tickets as late as possible in the evening or the next day in order to use this day as a reserve day. If your ascent is successful on schedule, there is always something to do in Chamonix (walking, skiing, visiting an ice cave on the Mere de Glacé glacier, or just going on a gastro tour :-)).
IMPORTANT!The guide has the right not to allow you to participate in the program if your equipment does not correspond to what is recommended on the site. For example, if instead of mountain boots you took sneakers or rubber boots.
Please be as responsible as possible when collecting equipment. Not only your health, but also the comfortable passage of the route by the group as a whole depends on this!
WE RECOMMEND 🔔When packing your backpack, put all your things in plastic bags (you can use trash bags), this will protect them from getting wet in case of heavy rain or snow.
On a hike, there is nothing worse than a wet sleeping bag; put it in the strongest bag that will definitely not tear. Also, pack warm clothes, especially down ones, very carefully. Stay dry and enjoy the adventure!
Equipment list for the Mont Blanc traverse in March
The traverse of the three peaks of Mont Blanc in March is a challenging program that takes place in winter conditions. There will be a lot of snow and cold. Take your equipment selection seriously. You need to have with you:
Shoes
- High-altitude boots - plastic, two-layer or three-layer composite. Take boots designed for mountains over 6000m.
- Trekking boots - semi-high, hard, well worn. Article: " "
- Trekking sandals, Crocs - for nights in civilization
Cloth
- Light headgear - cap, buff. We'll give you one buff, but it's better to have at least two.
- Warm hat
- Fleece gloves
- Warm mountain gloves for climbing - with safety cords
- Warm down jacket, always with a hood
- Down or artificially insulated pants
- A good membrane jacket with ventilation, a windproof “skirt” and a hood. The hood should fit over the helmet without restricting movement.
- Good membrane trousers, self-venting or with ventilation
- Lightweight trekking pants
- Light dress for beautiful photos
- Warm fleece or Polartek
- Light fleece
- Fleece sleep suit (or “non-active” thermal suit)
- A set of good active thermal underwear - for movement. Article: " "
- T-shirts - 1-2 pieces
- Trekking socks - 3-4 pairs
- Wool socks - 1 pair for sleeping
- Shoe covers (flashlights)
- Changeable underwear
Equipment
- Warm sleeping bag. Comfort temperature is -10 for men and -15 °C for girls. Article: " "
- Backpack for 65-90 l. Article: " "
- Good sunglasses (protection factor 4) in a hard case.
- Spare sunglasses, or better yet, a ski mask
- Microfiber towel
- Thermos 0.5-0.7 l
- A good headlamp with a spare set of batteries for climbing
- Good trekking poles with snow rings. Article: " "
- Personal first aid kit. The contents of a personal first aid kit are here: " "
- Sun cream with protection of at least 50 units
- Hygienic lipstick
- Moisturizing hand cream
- Stock of wet sanitary napkins
- Toilet paper
- Documents, money - in sealed packaging
- Camera, phone
- A set of personal goodies - Snickers, nuts
Individual special equipment for climbing:
- The lower harness is lightweight, with the ability to adjust the size on the leg loops and several shelf loops for carabiners. Virtually all modern systems will do
- Two lanyards - can be either from a rope or sewn from a sling or belay loops
- Any helmet will do, as long as it fits well. Choose one that is lighter and of a size so that you can wear a hat/buff under the helmet
- Carabiners - 4 pcs with coupling. One larger and three as light as possible in medium size. It should be easy to close and open with gloves
- Zhumar - a clamp for moving along a rope. Available for left and right hands, take it for your work
- Descender device (glass, basket, ATS guide)
- Good ice ax
- Cats - 12-tooth steel. Definitely with anti-sticks, preferably automatic or semi-automatic. We recommend fitting your boots in advance, but just a little, the guides will help with this.
Among climbers, debates continue as to which mountain should be considered the highest point in Europe - Elbrus or Mont Blanc. But having visited both peaks, I can say that the route to climb Mont Blanc, even along the classic route, is much more interesting and beautiful than climbing Elbrus along the route from the south. And although Elbrus is almost a kilometer higher, I would advise everyone who is interested in climbing to visit Mont Blanc.
The classic route to climb Mont Blanc usually starts with a tram ride to Mont Blanc (Tramway du Mont Blanc).
The tram route starts from Le Fayet station at an altitude of about 1000 meters, from which the tram rises to the final station Nid d'Aigle (Nid d'Aigle, Eagle's Nest) at an altitude of 2372 meters.
This article will describe the route to climb Mont Blanc and all sorts of useful tips, and at this link you can find a story about my independent climb to Mont Blanc with my thoughts and impressions of the climb.
But from Chamonix it is more convenient to get not to the lowest tram station Le Fayet, but to the Bellevue station Bellevue. And from this station you go up to Nid d'Aigle.
To do this, you need to take a regular bus from Chamonix to the village of Les Houches. Right next to the stop there is a cable car that will take you to the Bellevue tram station (from the cable car to the station you will need to walk about 150 meters following the signs).
The travel time by tram from Bellevue to the last station of Nid d'Aigle is about 20 minutes. During this time, the tram will travel along a winding path climbing up the edge of a cliff and through a couple of tunnels. More information about the tram to Mont Blanc can be found in this article.
From the terminus of the Tramway du Mont Blanc, the trails begin to the Tête Rousse hut at an altitude of 3167 meters.
There are two route options:
The first path goes up almost immediately from the station, and first goes along the ridge, then comes out to the old moraine and crosses it. Then the ascent goes along a rocky ridge with a constant gain in height all the way to Tet Rousse. The trail is not difficult, but long with a constant gain in altitude. There is almost no snow on the trail.
The second trail initially goes without climbing towards the Bionassay glacier and passes through the Nid d’Aigle hut. There is a cafe where you can have a snack (time from the tram station to the hut is ~15 minutes). Then the trail turns up the slope and runs along the edge of the Bionassey glacier and beautiful icefalls, and begins to gain altitude along old moraines and snowfields. But the main climb occurs just before the rocky ridge on which the Tet Rus shelter is located.
The second option of the route is more spectacular and beautiful, but the elevation gain is sharper and steeper, and most of the trail passes through snowfields.
There is almost no water along the road, only at the very bottom or small streams from melted snow. And in general, then the “waterless zone” begins - snow, ice, in the huts there is a fee (5 - 7 euros for a 1.5 liter bottle)...
Travel time from the tram to Tete Rousse is approximately 2 hours.
The Thet Rouss shelter itself is located on the edge of the Thet Rouss glacier, located on an almost flat plateau. The place is quite windy and not very cozy. You cannot get water in the shelter, even in the toilet, you can only buy it for 5 euros for a 1.5 liter bottle. But there is one “life hack” - turn on the water in the toilet in the evening so that those who spend the night in the opening can wash themselves. That is, at approximately 8 pm it is possible to get water from the shelter toilet. A place in the shelter must be reserved in advance due to the large number of people. The Tet Rus shelter was renovated in 2003 and can accommodate up to 72 people. You can pitch a tent on a plateau not far from the shelter. During the season, there are many tents here for those planning to climb Mont Blanc. Above this place, setting up tents is prohibited, so anyone who decides not to spend the night in shelters, for whatever reason, is forced to start climbing from here.
Immediately from the Tet Rus shelter, the trail to the Guter shelter (Gute, Gyuter) begins. First, the trail passes along the Tet Rouss glacier and begins to climb through the snowfield, and reaching the rocks it crosses the Grand Couloir. This is the most risky part of the route. A couloir 50-70 meters wide, along which stones and pieces of ice are constantly falling. In addition, there is a stream flowing in the middle of the couloir that you need to cross. There may be ice or frozen snow porridge, or maybe not frozen... The couloir is located on the western slope, so in the evening stones fall especially often. But even in the first half of the day, crossing the couloir is an exciting thing. Still, according to all the recommendations, it is better to take it in the first half of the day, while it is not illuminated by the sun.
There is a steel cable stretched across the Grand Couloir for insurance, but it is of little use, since it is stretched a couple of meters above the ground.
To cross, you definitely need crampons and a helmet is highly desirable; it certainly won’t save you from large stones, but it will help from ice fragments and small pebbles.
Immediately after the couloir the trail comes out onto the rocks. More precisely, the collapse of huge cobblestones that you need to climb up. Moreover, most local (more precisely European) climbers climb with crampons even if the stones are completely dry without snow and ice. Here and there steel cables are hung for safety.
After the first steep section with large cobblestones, the trail comes out to a small ridge going up and winds along it among rocks and fragments of stones. From time to time you have to climb over cobblestones.
Closer to the top, the ridge becomes steeper; suspended steel cables and fragments of stairs begin in especially dark areas.
Eventually the ridge opens onto the huge snow plateau of the Taconnaz glacier.
The ascent path leads to some buildings (possibly old or future shelters or some outbuildings) covered with snow up to the roof. From these buildings you need to climb a little further through the snow to a small ridge and walk along the ridge to the Guter hut itself (Gute, Gyuter), which is clinging to the rocks directly above the cliff at an altitude of 3835m.
The hike from the Tet Rus shelter to the Gutera shelter takes approximately 3 hours. Technically not difficult, but quite tiring, since almost all the time you need to jump and climb over stones.
The Huter hut itself is a three or four-story cylindrical building, sheathed in metal. On the lower floor there is a locker room where everyone leaves their crampons, boots and other equipment. The stairs lead to the upper floors where there is a cafe and living rooms.
During the season, you need to reserve places in Guter's hut in advance, otherwise there is a high chance that there will be no places...
All the work of the hut is tailored for climbers. Starting at 2 a.m., those who spent the night in Guter's shelter go out to climb. Between 2 and 3 am, even the cafe is open. The process of the great exodus of climbers continues until the morning. At about 3 a.m., those who started from the Tet Rus shelter at 12 a.m. begin to arrive; they go into the hut to rest a little and warm up.
The route to climb Mont Blanc starts right from the door of Houter's hut. A well-trodden snow track rises to the glacier for the first few tens of meters. After reaching the glacier plane, the trail goes along the edge of the cliff, avoiding snow drifts.
Then the trail goes down a little and begins to climb again, but along the surface of the glacier. In the central part of the glacier there are huge closed cracks, so the trail goes around - on the right side (if you look up). The route goes in the direction of the peak of the Dôme du Goûter, but the peak is not clearly defined and almost merges with the general relief of the ridge on which it is located. After crossing the ridge, you need to descend a little to the Col Du Dome saddle, where the route via the Grand Mulet approaches. From the saddle the trail approaches the Vallo hut (altitude 4300 m).
The most interesting and beautiful part of the route to climb Mont Blanc begins from the Vallot hut.
The trail emerges onto a ridge that gradually narrows. On the very crest of the ridge there are many strangely shaped snow blows. In the rays of the rising sun, the ridge and bulges look very stern and beautiful. The ascent along the ridge has several rather steep, but short sections, which alternate with gentler ones.
Very often a strong wind blows on the ridge, which complicates the ascent; the wind carries snow crumbs that cut your face, but it actually creates beautiful snow blows.
The route goes right along the border between France and Italy. Toward Italy, the ridge ends with kilometer-high rocky faults. On the other side - towards France, the slope is hidden by a glacier with many cracks and crevasses.
Just before the summit, the ridge widens slightly and reaches the highest point of Mont Blanc at 4809 meters. The peak is a wide snowy ridge.
The climb time from the Huter hut to the top of Mont Blanc is approximately 4.5 - 6 hours. The descent from the top to the hut along the ascent route takes 2-3 hours.
After the Guter hut, the descent continues along the ascent path to the Tet Rus hut. First along the rocky ridge crossing the Grand Couloir and then along the Tete Rus glacier to the Tete Rus hut.
From the Tet Rus hut follow one of two trail options to the tram station.
29.06-13.07.2019 Mont Blanc (Chamonix, France), RISE.
+ excursions (Bratislava, Vienna and castles of Switzerland and Germany
Friends, this is our fourth route to Mont Blanc. The excursion is being worked on. It needs to be linked to the ascent, the time the bus stays and the mileage.
It is necessary to communicate some points about the upcoming trip.
- 5-7 paid overnight stays in campsites(shower, toilet, Wi-Fi),
+ overnight near Bratislava- on a wonderful lake,
+ 2 hiking overnights (for those who are going on a 3-day trek from Monterey to Chamonix)
+ 3-4 nights at base camp on Mont Blanc at an altitude of 3200 (for climbers)
+ 2 night transfers.
The group that stays in Chamonix and does not climb Mont Blanc pays for 3 extra nights at the Chamonix campsite on their own (approx. 12 euros/night)
- 2 . You don't have to go to the climb, you can go partially up to 2300, up to 3140 - this is optional. Believe me, there is something to do in Chamonix. (Ice cave, access to the glacier, access to Brevent, ascent to Aigul Du Midi, paragliding flights...).
- 3 . Climbing requires experience mountain hikes of at least category 2 or climbing Elbrus or Kazbek. The ascent route passes along a rock-talus slope (600m drop, light rocks, steepness up to 50º, handrails in places) + snow-ice slope (800m drop, steepness up to 30º, ligaments). Leaders (instructors) have the necessary experience to guide the ascent (confirmed by certificates).
- 4. Those wishing to climb Mont Blanc should pay attention to endurance training (running cross, swimming, cycling...). The sooner you start, the easier it will be for you in the mountains
- Start and finish of the trip in Lviv. Participants get to Lviv on one's own.
- Everyone travels with BIOMETRIC PASSPORTS, if citizens of other countries are participating, we prepare documents for a visa. Visa 35 euros and service fee approximately 700 UAH. are paid independently.
- 2 groups are formed:
1st group - CLIMBERS! 3 days mini-trip (3 days, 2 nights, from Martigna (Switzerland) to Chamonix (France). This mini hike is:
1) An excellent option for acclimatization before climbing Mont Blanc.
2) An excellent option for easy trekking for unprepared people who want to see the beauty of the Alps with a small backpack.
2nd group - EXCURSION! Trip to BARCELONA (Spain).
OUR ROUTE:
06/28/2019 - Fri (day 0). Departure from your city to Lviv.
29.06 Sat.(day 1) . Collection at the railway station in Lviv To 18-00 , loading onto the bus. 19.00 check-in
supermarket and departure to Uzhgorod-Bratislava (780 km + borders). Night move
30.06 ( day 2). Bratislava.15.00-19.00 old town. Transfer to the lake. Overnight. Lake
clean, you can swim.
01.07 (day 3). 8.00 departure 80 km. 9.00-23.00 Vienna, self-guided tour. (Recommended
double-decker excursion bus, 25 euros – and taxi for the whole day around all
sightseeing is guaranteed to you. Night transfer to Chamonix 1240 km.
02.07 (day 4). Road to Chamonix. Moving to the town of Montreux ( 14.00-16.00, Photopause –
Chillon Castle). Moving to the town of Martigny (17.00) . Overnight at the campsite.
Group 1 - preparation for the trip.
03.07 (day 5).GROUP DIVISION:
Group 1. MiniHIKE.
03.07 — 05.07 (days 5,6,7) . Martigny - Chamonix.
+ Climbingto Mont Blanc06.07 — 10 .07 (days8,9,10 , 11 , 12 ) .
05.07 (day 7) . Check-in at the Chamonix campsite. Rest, preparation for the ascent.
06.07 (day 8). Departure from the campsite at 09.30. Moving by municipal transport. (author No. 1)
to the cable car ( Bellevarde).Transfer to the trailer until Art.Bellevue(1800m). Further
transfer to tram to the station NidD'aigle, 2400m. Snack and transition to basic
camps (Refuge de tete Rousse, 3200m, drop 800m,). Nstayin tents at 3200m.
07.07 (day 9) . Acclimatization day, ice training. The next two days will be
Depends on the readiness of the group and the weather... Overnightin tents (3200m).
08.07 (dJune 10) . Climbing. 3 a.m. – START FOR THE ASSCENT(to be on time
return to base camp by daylight (until 19.00). Overnightin tents (3200m).
09.07 (dJune 11) . RESERVE DAY. Climbing. Overnightin tents (3200m).
10.07 (day 12). Exit to 08.00 . Descent to the tram and transfer to the campsite. Camping, shower,
rest. MEETING OF GROUPS!(It is possible to travel home via Germany.) Overnight in
camping.
Group 2.
03.07 (day 5) . 10 : 00 departure to Chamonix. 12 : 00 Accommodation at the Chamonix campsite. 14 : .00-20 : 00
City tour. Rest.
04.07 (day 6) . Chamonix- a magnificent village with amazing landscapes and beauty!
Rising to Aigule du Midi- midday peak - UNUSUAL BEAUTY,
perhaps an easy trek along the slopes of the Alps directly to the campsite - 5-6 km. lightly down...
05.07 (day 7) . Chamonix - Ice cave, ascent to Brevent.
06.07 (day 8). Group departure— 2 TO BARCELONA!, in the evening of 8 days the arrival of group 1 in
camping. (maybe we will change the route a little if there are many people interested
go to Barcelona, without climbing Mont Blanc, but with trekking along the Swiss
parts of the Alps... details will be in April)
07.07 — 10.07 (days 8,9,10,11,12) for group 2 — Barcelona and Montserrat. Gaudi and the sea.
10.07 (day 12). Transfer to the Chamonix campsite. Camping, showering, relaxing. MEETING OF GROUPS!
(Departure home via Germany is possible.) Overnight at a campsite.
11.07 (day 13) . Departure to Ukraine via Germany. 12.00-14.00 Photopause – Rhine
waterfall.! (The largest in Europe). By 19.00 Camping near Munich.
12.07 (day 14). Transfer Munich - Budapest. 18.00-21.00 evening Budapest. Night move
to Lvov.
13.07 (day 15) . Arrival in Lviv by 12.00 — plan a train to your city!
14.07 — Sun. You are HOME.
FRIENDS, EVERY YEAR THE PROGRAM IS DIFFERENT - REMAINS UNCHANGEonlyPROGRAMCLIMBINGONMont Blanc.
THE ROUTE MAY BE SIGNIFICANTLY ADJUSTED
PRICE 600 euros.* (from Lviv to Lviv). includes:
- transfer (total mileage about 4500 km in Europe);
- grub (breakfast + dinner, + snacks on the climb and on the hike);
- gas for burners/stove;
- group equipment and equipment (including kitchen);
- camping (5-7 nights);
- instructors' work…
Additional costs:
registration and receipt of VISAfor those who do not have a Biometric passport);
- WITHfucking (full-fledged - “all inclusive”, international - 30,000 euros fear.
- sum. from 15 to 30 euros. - depends on age);
accommodation at a campsite in Chamonix (up to 3 days at 12 EUR/day. For those who do not go
to climb);
moving cable car (car) + tram up to an altitude of 2400m 36 EUR. (For
climbers);
visiting excursion sites (for example, Vienna bus -25 EUR, cable cars, castles,
natural objects, etc.).
snacks (lunches)on the bus during travel, on excursions...;
personal equipment.
*For groups of 10 people or more. Discounts apply
In order for the trip to cost minimal money, we are going with overnight stays in tents, but
with your own food - food in Europe is not cheap...
We rent for 300 euros until April 1 —this is the approximate cost of a seat on the bus.
Mont Blanc is the highest point of the Alps (not to be confused with the highest mountain in Europe, Elbrus), a place of pilgrimage for climbers and a rather dangerous and sometimes cold place. Editorial incidentally on Mont Blanc, failed and tells how not to end up in our place and what is needed for a successful climb.
How to do it
They say (but we haven’t checked yet) that Mont Blanc is more difficult than Kazbek and even Elbrus, so it’s not easy to run up the snow. After the visit, we have collected some recommendations that will increase the chances of a successful climb not for a professional climber, but for an amateur or someone who wants to start exploring the mountains from such a difficult peak.
It is worth saying that even if you have only seen the Carpathians from a car window, you can climb it if you are in good physical shape.
And we are gradually approaching the first point.
Don't give up training
Climbing rocks and snow will be much easier if you practice for a couple of months beforehand. Another good option is to work out on a climbing wall (the ability to tie knots and climb rocks on Mont Blanc will not be superfluous).
Get equippedwisely
A common problem is cold/wet feet, wind, cold toes, discomfort, etc. To climb Mont Blanc (if you spend the night in shelters) you will need:
- Two sets of good thermal underwear and it is desirable that the “top” of one of them has a neckline;
- Assault pants and some light pants or shorts for traveling to places where it is not yet completely cold.
- Fleece is a good fleece jacket, and pants won't be out of place either.
- One of the most important parts is the shoes. It should be comfortable, not get wet, not chafe, not get damp, and withstand 15 hours knee-deep in the snow. The crampons should fit properly on the shoes, and it is better to check this before going on a hike. In warm weather, it is worth taking a second pair of shoes - trekking sneakers, for example, but not necessary. It is advisable, of course, to have two pairs of shoes - so that you can save your “assault” ones for the summit, but if you are confident in your boots, then you don’t need to carry too much. Don't forget about trekking socks.
- Shoe covers - either simply covering ones, or, if your feet are cold, shoe covers that are put on shoes like felt boots. But keep in mind that you should only wear them with cats - the felt boots themselves are very slippery.
- Raincoat - so that if the weather turns bad, you don’t get your membrane jacket wet.
- Membrane jacket - for assault and movement in cooler areas.
- A down jacket should be worn in camp and put under the membrane closer to the top when it gets really cold and windy.
- Gloves - three pairs: fleece, some kind of construction gloves (with a relief on the inside of the palm - with them it is much more convenient to go down the railings, because your hands slip less) and warm ones, like ski gloves.
- Hat, buff, balaclava - ears and head must be kept warm.
- Mountain goggles (protection 3 or 4) and a ski mask - the sun hits your eyes mercilessly.
- Crampons (can be soft, automatic, semi-automatic), ice ax (if you take it in your hand, the length should be ankle-length), belay system, self-safety loops, three carabiners. The ice ax should also have a cord of moderate length, which must be fastened to a carabiner (so that if the ice ax falls out of your hands, it will not fly into the abyss), a rope, safety “eights” for the leading and trailing ligaments, and a helmet.
- Trekking poles.
- Sunscreen SPF 40 or higher.
- Headlamp (don't forget to reserve batteries).
- Chemical hand and foot warmers will save you in parking lots when there is no action, and your hands and feet are cold.
Since this summer, when a record number of climbers died on Mont Blanc (solely due to their own stupidity and lack of equipment), local authorities have introduced mandatory equipment requirements for everyone who climbs. So our list above is supplemented with the following items:
- GPS and altimeter,
- first aid items.
Of course, on the routes no one catches your hand or looks through your bags, but what if something happens and you don’t have the necessary equipment - there may be problems.
Well, we think it’s not worth reminding once again that you don’t need to skimp on equipment for dangerous hikes - it can cost your health or life.
Choose a comfortable climbing route
The easiest way, which gives the maximum chance of getting to the top, is to do everything comfortably, without strain and in adequate conditions. To do this (on the classic route) you should follow very simple points.
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- Go up in the summer - and the weather is better, and there may be less snow, and the tram from Le Fayet will take you immediately to an altitude of 2300 m. You can also take the same route at 2300 m on foot from the cable car station in Chamonix - here it’s whatever you like. If there are fewer movements, then the tram takes an hour and a half, and from there you can walk to the base camp at 3200 m - the walk is literally a couple of hours and is not difficult. If you want to warm up, you can climb the hiking route that leads to the emergency shelter at 2700 m. And there, depending on the situation, either spend the night or go to 3200 m to the base one.
- At 3200 m there is the Tet Rus shelter and base camp. It is important to pay attention to several points here: above 3200 m it is forbidden to pitch tents, and in the Tet Rus shelter, if you book in advance, you can spend the night. It would be good to book a couple of months in advance; prices and all the necessary information are on the website. Spending the night in shelters all the way to and from Mont Blanc is generally a good idea: you don’t need to carry a tent, a sleeping bag, or a bunch of things, just take an assault backpack, equipment and money. The Tet Rus shelter has a dining room-restaurant (set breakfasts - 16 euros, lunches - 25 euros, wine and beer around 5-10 euros, a can of cola - 5 euros, one and a half liters of water - 6 euros, there are also individual dishes for 7- 15 euros). They cook well, and it’s convenient that you don’t have to carry food with you, jet boils and all that. There is a common shower, toilet, towels are provided, in general, everything is like people have. By the way, you can spend the night in the dining room - no one kicks anyone out, and some climbers sleep on benches, wrapped in sleeping bags. Not very convenient, but free. Visitors to the shelter can also use the separate kitchen for free, as well as cook in it and take a free table.
- If you took the path of least resistance, then your next point is the Guter shelter at 3800 m. After spending the night in Tet Rousse, you can walk 600 meters of the Grand Couloir climb, walk to the Guter shelter (you also need to book much in advance here) and stay overnight and gain strength before the final assault. From the Huter shelter to the top there is nothing - only an emergency hut at 4400, but these are bare walls and a small box that simply protects from the wind. There is nothing to do there without a sleeping bag with a good “minus”, and it is very doubtful to spend the night at such an altitude.
- From the Huter shelter in the morning you go out to storm Mont Blanc and on the same day, around 3-4 o'clock, return to the shelter, spend another night to rest, and go down to Chamonix or simply lower. If you are in good physical shape, you can immediately descend from the top to the base camp or to the emergency shelter at 2700 m, as soon as you have the strength.
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Take care of psychological comfort and stable condition
You need to be comfortable with the people you're going up with. These people are your support and insurance; you can team up with them and help each other. If you are going on an organized tour, but, for example, the guides do not make you feel safe and supported, this is very bad and can significantly affect your ascent.
If you still have some unsolved tasks and problems “at sea level”, and they constantly remind you of themselves and make you worry, it is better to leave them all closer to the ground.
Mental preparation and resilience mean a lot, and if a combination of factors leads to you being restless, uncomfortable, nervous and maybe even scared, deal with it before you start climbing.
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How not to
Everything described below is personal experience and cannot be a universal recommendation, but we tried to highlight those points that may have become the cause, which means that by avoiding them, the situation can theoretically be improved.
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Don't jump beyond your strength
Our group did not spend the night in shelters, and if you don’t plan to either, then keep in mind that, firstly, you will have to carry an extra 10 kilos on your shoulders (and food) to the base camp, and secondly, you will have to storm the peak from 3200 m, and this is very difficult. You will have to leave at one or two in the morning, overcome the very difficult Grand Couloir and then gain another kilometer of altitude along the ridge, where strength and endurance are very important. If you are not an athlete or are unsure of your abilities, it’s better not to do this, it can lead to failure of the trip. Do not forget also that you will have to sleep in tents in the snow for three nights.
Don't go in large groups
A comfortable group size is up to ten people plus several guides for such a group. If it is greater, then the chances that everything will turn into trash, confusion and vacillation increase disproportionately, and it may turn out mediocre.
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Don't go on your own if you don't know anything about the mountains
In general, you can climb Mont Blanc for free and on your own. But if you have never done something like this and are very familiar with dangerous mountains, then do not commit suicide and go with someone who has experience. By the way, about independence - for solo climbers, the chances of death increase significantly compared to those who climb at least in pairs.
Don't treat grief irresponsibly
Almost every day on Mont Blanc someone hurts himself or is injured. We are ourselves, so go and prepare carefully, soberly and carefully.
Lifehacks
Traditionally, here are a few life hacks for those who are determined to go all the way:
- Taking a bus or car to Chamonix from Ukraine is tiring, no matter how you look at it. If you can fly, a flight to Geneva will save time and effort.
- If the tram does not work, there is a cable car from Chamonix to 1800 m and further, if the tram tunnel is open, you can cut through it.
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- If you forgot to buy something, there is a huge decathlon equipment store in Chamonix. Even if you bought everything, still look there on the way back, this is a real paradise for hikers;
- Tickets for the tram and cable car are worth taking in both directions - it’s cheaper.
- Evacuation from Mont Blanc is suddenly free, but in case of health problems it should cover treatment.
This route to climb Mont Blanc was discovered in 1890 by the Italian mountaineer, professor of theology, director of the Vatican Library, and clergyman Archil Ratti. This extraordinary man in the world is known as Pope Pius XI. Therefore, the path was called Papal.
The best thing about the Papal Way is that it passes through untouched nature. Solitude with the natural world, the inaccessibility of the South-Western walls of Mont Blanc, the gigantic size of glacial moraines accompany us throughout the entire route. The surrounding area is called the Himalayas in miniature. You need to pave the entire road yourself, without lifts. This track is more difficult than the route through Gouter. A route for connoisseurs of mountainous terrain and untouched natural beauty.
A well-thought-out program promotes acclimatization. Overnight at a level above 2700 meters, ice training, ascent to Tête Blanche (3520 m). According to statistics, about 80 people went to Mont Blanc last year with ExtremeGuide, of which 85% successfully reached the summit.
The climbing program is suitable for people with experience in climbing other mountains; for beginners we recommend the classic route or the route through three peaks.
Day 1 - Arrival in Geneva. Transfer to Chamonix.
Meeting of participants at Geneva airport. Transfer to Chamonix. The journey will take 2-3 hours. Check-in to the apartment.
Resolving all issues related to preparation for the tour. Together with the guide, check equipment and equipment.
There will be an opportunity to buy missing clothes and rent necessary items. Collecting backpacks and resting before the hike.
Day 2 - Albert 1st Shelter
For optimal acclimatization, we will spend the night in a hut high in the mountains and make a radial hike to a level of 3000 meters.
We wake up early, around six in the morning. Departure to the track at 08.00, we move by bus to the village of LeTour (1464 m). Then we take the cable car up to the ColdeBalme pass (2195 m).
Hiking approximately 3 hours to the Albert Ler hut (2707 m).
The hut was recently restored and has electricity. Snow and ice activities.
Day 3 - Training and acclimatization
In case of excellent weather and free time, we will go to the nearest peak of Tête Blanche. Climbing higher promotes adaptation.
Today we will learn or strengthen the skills of walking in ropes on a glacier, self-restraint on snowfields and ice.
At five in the morning we go out to the Tête Blanche mountain and return to the camp for lunch. We descend to the village of Le Tour on foot for 2-3 hours. We go back by bus to Chamonix, to the apartments.
Day 4 - Transfer to Rifugio Gonella
Early breakfast. By bus (flight at 08.30) we move to Courmayeur (Italy). The journey takes about 45 minutes, we cross the famous twelve-kilometer tunnel under Mont Blanc. To cross the border you must have a passport.
We go to the village of La Visaille (1700 m) in the Val Veny valley. This is a tiny settlement, beyond which road traffic is blocked due to a landslide. The Lac Combal lake (1968 m) is an hour's walk away. Then about three hours along the moraine of the Glacierdu Miage glacier to the slopes of Mount Aiguille Grises (2620 m).
From this point on the road becomes difficult. We will use crampons, a rope, and an ice ax to overcome steep snow slopes. At the same time, difficult places are equipped with ladders and cables.
We get to the next base point – Rifugio Gonella (3071 m). Trek 1.5-2 hours.
Modern hut with water, electricity, magnificent views of the surrounding mountains. We go to bed early and relax. The next day is challenging and physically exhausting.
Day 5 - Assault on Mont Blanc
We get up at midnight and go for the assault at one o'clock in the morning. We go out in bundles, crampons, and immediately with ice axes. We stomp along the cracks of the Glacierdu Dome glacier to Coldes Aiguille Grises. We climb Pitondes Italiens (4002 m, 3 hours) along a snow-covered ridge. A short trek to the Dome du Gouter mountain. Afterwards we traverse to the Coldu Dome pass (4258 m, 1 hour).
Further, the ascent route coincides with the “Classic via Aiguille du Gouter” option. From the pass we go to Refuge Abri Vallot (4362 m, 30 min). A short stop at a bivouac, where you can shelter from the wind and relax. The path from the camp to Mont Blanc (4810 m) lies through a narrow snow ridge.
We pass by two small peaks GrandBosse (4513 m), Petite Bosse (4547 m). Trek 2 hours.
We descend along our ascent road to the Coldu Dome, past the Domedu Gouter to the Refuge du Gouter hut (3817 m). There is no water here, but there is electricity and a dining room with a minibar. We spend the night in a shelter.
Day 6 - Return to Chamonix
We get up at 7 am, leave at 8.00. The first section of the descent is along the steep slopes of Aiguille du Gouter to the plateau near the Refugede Tete Rousse hut (3167 m, 1.5 hours). The trail is equipped with cables.
We pass the important, difficult section of the Grand Couloir with a scree couloir. Rockfalls may occur here. On a slope you have to be especially careful, fast and confident.
From the hut to the tram station Le Nid d'Aigle (2372 m) the journey takes approximately 1.5 hours.
Take the tram to Bellevue station and take the cable car down to the village of Les Houches. We take the bus back to the booked apartment.
Day 7 - Reserve
In case of bad weather or unforeseen situations.
Day 8 - Flight home
Morning check-out is until 10 am. We transfer to Geneva airport by transfer. Farewell to the group.
Important! To ensure safety and for reasons of congestion at base points, the tour plan may be adjusted. The instructor, taking into account the conditions, will choose the best option.
NUMBER OF PARTICIPANTS | PRICE |
---|---|
2 | 997 EUR |
1 | 1595 EUR |
INCLUDED:
Guide services: 1 guide for a group of up to 2 people. A second guide if the group is 3 or more people. (At the acclimatization exit (2nd and 3rd days of the program) one guide for six people.
- transfer from Geneva airport to Chamonix.
- accommodation in apartments in Shamonin for the entire duration of the program (3-room apartments, accommodation for 2-3 people).
- accommodation in the Refuge Albert 1er hut (2nd day of the program).
- accommodation in the Rifugio Gonella hut (4th day of the program).
- lift to LeTour (2nd and 3rd days, one ascent and one descent).
- travel by bus through the tunnel under Mont Blanc from Chamonix to Courmayeur (4th day).
- reservation of huts during the acclimatization period and on Monlant
- travel from Courmayeur along the Val Veny valley (4th day).
- rental of group special equipment - rope, ice screws, loops, public carabiners.
- navigation, communication equipment and a group first aid kit for emergency first aid (located by the guide).
- certificate of ascent;
NOT INCLUDED:
The road from your place of stay to Geneva airport.
- Visa to the Schengen zone.
- NS and medical insurance. (issued by ExtremeGuide) – 20-40 €;
- Meals while staying in Chamonix (about 10 euros per person per day, if you cook yourself).
- Meals at the huts (15-30 EUR per meal).
- Accommodation at the Refuge du Gouter hut on the 5th day of the program (65 EUR, we will book it for you).
- Mountain tram from Nidd’Aigle station (about 10 EUR).
- Cable car from Bellevue station to Les Houches (approx. 20 EUR).
- Additional night's accommodation and meals at the mountain hut on the reserve day.
- Phone calls.
- rental of personal special equipment (ice axe, helmet, system, crampons, carabiners) – about 70 € per set + rental of mountain shoes +50 €.
- tips for the guide (optional);
- other expenses not specified in the program.
Conditions of the tour to Mont Blanc
To organize a transfer from the airport to Chamonix, you need to provide managers with information in advance about the time of arrival/departure, flight number, preferably ten days before the start of the expedition.
Documents
- Passport with visa, biometric, ID for visiting the Schengen area;
- Insurance policy that takes into account mountaineering. ExtremeGuide.
Accommodation and meals
Overnight stays take place in mountain huts at various altitudes. Dormitory for 6-10 people with bunk beds. It is advisable to have a personal sleeping bag liner to maintain hygiene. There is no shower or wi-fi. Electricity is not available in all camps . There is drinking water that is brought by plane, but it is not cheap at all.
On the active part route and breakfast and dinner are provided. Early in the morning, even the night before rise , breakfast is served. This is usually porridge-muesli, milk, toast with jam, tea or coffee. Dinner at seven in the evening consists of soup, main course and dessert. Drinks, additional food for a fee. It is also possible to order sweets, alcohol, and other food from the menu.
Safety
The tour is potentially dangerous for unprepared travelers. Guides try to provide safe conditions for the health and life of everyone participant and require tourists to observe safety precautions. The guide alone makes the decision to terminate the expedition, and such a decision is not discussed.
In case of bad weather, strong gusts of wind, or limited visibility, the assault is impossible.
The plan provides for accompaniment by one guide of no more than two participants during the ascent (from the Tet Rus shelter), taking into account the requirements of local associations instructors During acclimatization and one guide works with six climbers.
How to prepare for a hike
When hiking you need to be prepared for early rises and transition for long distances with backpacks weighing 8-10 kg, to bad weather, winds and sub-zero temperatures temperature (up to -15°C at peak). Despite the fact that Mont Blanc is lower than Elbrus and Kazbek, technical complexity The climb is much more difficult. Mountaineering skills for climbing on snowy rock are vital.
At the same time, the mountain is accessible to every physically healthy and mentally prepared person. And our guides will ensure safety and fulfillment of your dreams.
About physical and moral preparation It is advisable to read before trekking in the mountains. From participants good athletic form, endurance, and tolerance for difficulties are required. Experience in a rock climbing program is desirable. For example, “Mountaineering and rock climbing in Bulgaria”, “School in Georgia”, “Granites of Chamonix” and others.
A list of necessary clothing, shoes, equipment, and special equipment is available .
If you have any additional questions, please contact our professionals for help.