Lee in Kalmykia. Kalmykia and its inhabitants: a view from the outside
There is an expression - the eye is blurry. When you observe one situation day after day, year after year, you stop noticing its features. And yet they exist. Residents of Kalmykia who permanently live in the republic find it difficult to objectively evaluate themselves, their actions, their behavior in everyday life, “in public.” This requires a fresh look. It was just such an “uncontaminated” vision of the features of our steppe region that was shared with the editors of SM by a person who recently came here for the first time and lived in Kalmykia for two weeks. We publish his impressions with minimal literary processing.
Will!
I had the opportunity to live and work in various regions of Russia. Of course, everywhere has its own peculiarity. For example, the Tambov region is distinguished by dense forests along the roads, they even put pressure on you with their gloominess. Altai is beautiful in its pristineness and purity - but it’s different there, there are hills and mountains. Very beautiful. Katun alone is worth it. The places near Kaliningrad are unique: the cocktail of sea and forest air is indescribable.
By the way, if we talk about the air, my saddest memories are of industrial Lipetsk: it’s unclear how people live there in such a toxic atmosphere.
The Siberian taiga is a special topic here. One of my friends grew up there, but has lived in big city, so he spends his vacation in the taiga. A backpack, a gun over your shoulders - and there you go.
And in the Astrakhan region, I once met an eccentric Muscovite pensioner: a person gets tired of the metropolitan noise and din, so in August he takes a train to Volgograd, there he assembles his homemade boat and, right up to October, gradually rafts to the Volga delta. He fishes and lives on self-feeding.
However, I’m talking more about the characteristics of people than about regions.
What first struck you about your places was their open spaces. For two weeks I lived not only in Elista, I traveled to the districts several times, and the vastness, the vast breadth, was always breathtaking. Everywhere you look there is a steppe. Breathe easily, deeply. One word - will!
It’s a pity that I didn’t see the tulips blooming: my new friends in Elista claim that the spectacle is simply unforgettable; people come from the most distant places to admire it. They showed me photographs, and I promised myself: I will definitely try to come here during the blooming period of these beautiful flowers.
Law of the steppe
I did not find any particular differences between the rural and urban populations in Kalmykia. Perhaps the villagers are easier to communicate with. Like everywhere else. And they are also very hospitable. It doesn’t matter that they are seeing you for the first time - they will definitely seat you at the table, offer you something to eat, drink dzhomby (a kind of drink, I liked it). They explained to me that this is the law of the steppe: if today you do not shelter a random traveler, tomorrow they may not open the door for you. Moreover, nationality does not play a role here. A wonderful law, everyone should live like this.
My impressions of Kalmyk cuisine are, admittedly, ambivalent. There were some things I immediately liked, and some I had to give up – it was an unusual taste. Let's say, at the same dotour, revered by everyone here. I wanted to try the famous cur, but it is not prepared often, and the pleasure is not cheap.
By the way, the legend about this dish has sunk into my soul. Allegedly, the shepherd-sheep breeders came up with the kur: the khan will come with an “inspection” - they say, are the shepherds stealing my sheep, and they have a fire burning in the parking lot, the food is the most unpretentious. In fact, meat is cooked under the fire, in a lamb's stomach. It's a brilliant idea!
There are few fat people, people are mostly slender and lean. They dress beautifully, with good taste, especially the women. They explained to me: it’s better for a Kalmyk woman to be undernourished, but she will go “all out of herself” in front of people.
It's scary, it's creepy...
But what I was frankly afraid of at first was the traffic in Elista. It would seem that the town is small, provincial, the roads are not wide, there is nowhere to accelerate, but how the local drivers drive! Especially minibuses. It is clear that their owners want to make money, so in the framework of fierce competition, drivers try to intercept passengers. But you also have to think about safety. Moreover, the statistics on road accidents in Kalmykia are very sad. And drivers are also honking their horns desperately. It’s as if the traffic rules have lifted the ban on sounding the horn in populated areas. It’s unclear where the local traffic cops are looking.
Although, no, it’s just understandable. My new friend, Mergen, explained:
– Our town is small, everyone knows each other. Kalmyks have all relatives up to the seventh generation. If a traffic cop stops a violator, he is “one of his own”: either distant relatives, or a neighbor, or a regiment. Try it, punish me. In general, their own relatives will then eat for a relative. It's hard to be a traffic cop here.
But how beautifully the traffic police officers stand at intersections: their bellies stick out, hands on hips, impudent faces. Not just the king of the roads - the master of life!
However, they are the same everywhere. Of the former Soviet republics, only in Belarus the “father” squeezed them: there, everyone who wears cop shoulder straps treats citizens exclusively in a civilized, European way, and categorically refuses bribes. No one wants to sit on a bunk or lose their place. But for Lukashenko it’s easy.
Secretary nails
Due to necessity, during my business trip to you I had to visit more than one official institution. I was struck by this feature: none of the officials want to take responsibility for making decisions. Even the most trivial thing. What on earth do you get paid for? Until you reach the most important thing, you can’t expect the desired result.
And getting to the authorities is not at all easy: an army of well-trained secretaries guards the peace of the management like a shrine. They can openly lie to you: “He’s at a meeting at the ministry.” You step aside, smoke a couple of cigarettes, and you see the right “big” man come out of his office.
We should make nails out of your secretaries...
“There was no signal from the Kremlin”
What was frankly striking was the price list for bribes for employment. Almost every ordinary Elista citizen knows how much to give per paw for a good place. Moreover, the prices are almost Moscow, from 300 thousand rubles and more. Even after graduating from the most prestigious university in the capital, it’s impossible to just get a job, they say, you definitely have to “grease up.” However, as the same Mergen said, if there is no money, the issue is resolved “the Kalmyk way” - in the necessary structures they look for relatives who can help.
– So what, you don’t have any regulatory authorities or security forces working here at all? – I asked naively.
– You know, I have a friend from the FSB, I somehow teased him: why do you get such good money? And he answers: “Yes, we know everything. We have incriminating evidence on almost any local official, right up to the very top. It’s just that there hasn’t been a signal from the Kremlin yet.”
I wonder: will they wait for this “go-ahead” in Kalmykia?
“Kalmyk doesn’t eat grass”
From my observations, purely everyday ones. In Elista stores, I have never heard the words “please” or “be kind” from customers. Another, categorical one is pronounced: “Give!”
If you meet acquaintances on the street, they stop to chat right where they saw each other. They don't care if they interfere with the movement of other people. Mergen jokes: “This is purely ours, local: they say, the steppe is wide - you can go around it.”
More than once I have observed examples of respectful attitude of young people towards the older generation: they will give up their seat in a minibus, and they will show politeness on the street. You don't see this everywhere today.
Quite a lot of mixed marriages. Such families produce wonderfully beautiful children!
About responsibility for little ones. I was told such a case. A young family broke up - the husband drank heavily. Two children were left with a mother who, let’s say, is by no means rich. So, the mother of that drunkard husband has been supporting her grandchildren for many years, helping them financially. And they treat her with respect and love, despite the collapse of the family.
No matter how wealthy people are, they cannot sit at the table without meat. Which, in general, is understandable - the peculiarities of the region. Mergen smiles: “Kalmyks don’t eat grass.”
Don't anger God
I was looking through the Kalmyk press and, to be honest, I didn’t quite understand why the so-called opposition is so zealously attacking your head of the republic, Alexei Orlov. The local standard of living, believe me, is not so bad. You haven’t seen how poorly residents of many other regions are forced to live, and those located much closer to Moscow. In the same Central Black Earth Region. In Tambov villages, closer to winter, a huge pile of firewood is still lined up next to each house - there is no way to install gas.
One of the simplest indicators: look at what your car owners drive - if not a foreign car, then a completely new Kalina. And, for example, in the Belgorod region, Oryol region, especially in the rural outback, you won’t surprise anyone with old “Muscovites” and even “Cossacks”. In the Tver province they ride around on decrepit motorcycles even in winter.
So, guys, don’t anger God, as they say.
For myself, I came to the following conclusion: most likely, your Orlov “ran across the road” of one of the locals, so they ordered him to spread rot in the media. Not for free, of course.
But in general, I liked Kalmykia. The region is unique, even, I would say, exotic. I'll be happy to come here again if I have a chance.
Sergey KRINITSYN
You can get to the Republic of Kalmykia both by land and by sky. Kalmykia is connected with other Russian cities by several highways - for example, the highway from Volgograd, Stavropol, Mineralnye Vody etc. The section of the Elista - Divnoye railway is connected to the network of the rest railways, but most likely you will have to travel by train through Stavropol, or by bus or plane.
The bus from Moscow to Elista takes about 24 hours, the one-way fare is 1200 RUB. Prices on the page are as of November 2019.
Ruslan Airlines operates flights from Moscow to Elista, but it is very difficult to catch them, so you may also have to fly through Stavropol, and from there to Kalmykia by train or bus. There is only one airport in Kalmykia - in Elista, with flights from Moscow, Mineralnye Vody and Rostov-on-Don.
Search for flights to the Republic of Kalmykia
Weather in the Republic of Kalmykia
The climate in Kalmykia is far from resort-like and is characterized as sharply continental. Summers here are hot and dry, and winters have little snow and are often frosty. On average, the January temperature in Kalmykia is about -7...9 degrees in the south of the republic and about -10...12 degrees in the southwest. IN northern regions In winter there are cold weather with temperatures as low as thirty-five degrees. But sunny days there are quite a lot here per year - 280. average temperature July in Kalmykia - +23...25 degrees. Maximum heat is about +40...44 degrees.
Sights, entertainment and excursions of Kalmykia
It must be admitted that the nature of Kalmykia is not very diverse - mainly the famous “Kalmyk steppes”, but this does not mean that there are no attractions here. Nevertheless, it is better to start getting acquainted with this steppe country from its capital - small, but beautiful city with the poetic name Elista. The city was founded at the end of the 19th century, and today it is home to only about 100 thousand people. The city itself is a unique phenomenon, rising in the steppe.
Elista is a city with a Buddhist flavor, clean and cozy streets and incredible buildings. For example, here is the largest seven-level Buddhist temple in Europe, the Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni, with the largest Buddha statue on the continent, 12 meters high!
The Golden Abode houses many relics, such as the clothes of the 14th Dalai Lama and the hair of Lama Tsongkhapa. On the first level there is a museum, a conference room and a library, on the second there is a statue of Buddha covered with gold leaf and inlaid with diamonds, above there are private reception rooms, the residence of the head of Buddhists, the residence of the 11th Dalai Lama and utility rooms, and on the very top floor there is a meditation room where only monks have access.
Elista - Kalmyk khurul
Big Yashalta Lake
Among the natural attractions of Kalmykia, one cannot fail to mention the unique Big Yashalta Lake. By medicinal properties it can only be surpassed, probably, by the Dead Sea. And despite the fact that there is no resort towns, and the steppe and feather grass, a large number of Russians come to him to improve their health - from the treatment of respiratory diseases to reproductive diseases and for the purpose of rejuvenation. Moreover, a modern treatment center was recently built here, today it is one of the best on the list of Russian health resorts.
In terms of healing properties, Lake Yashalta can probably surpass only the Dead Sea.
Reserve "Black Lands"
Between the Volga and Kuma, the Kalmyk nature reserve “Black Lands” is located with an area of 121 thousand hectares.
Since 1990, these lands have been considered a state biosphere reserve in order to preserve the unique nature of these lands from environmental disaster, for example, to save the saiga population.
Here, on the territory of the reserve, there is Lake Manych-Gudilo, where the wintering and nesting grounds of swans, pelicans, bustards and other rare birds are protected. There are 12 islands on the territory of the lake, traveling through which you can admire the birds of the reserve and the beautiful landscapes of wildlife.
City Chess
If you are a fan of modern attractions, then be sure to visit the City Chess area. The prototype of this unique area is the project of New Vasyuki by Ostap Bender, the hero of the novel “The Twelve Chairs”. It was built in 1998 as a complex for the XXXIII World Chess Olympiad. The Olympics have passed, and “City of Chess” still delights residents and guests of the city. In the center of the complex there is a huge Chess Palace, where, in fact, the Olympiad was held. Today it houses gyms, offices and cafeterias. The area of the complex is built up with small cottages, which creates the impression that you are not in the capital of Kalmykia, but in European town with cute houses and well-kept lawns. The territory of the district is decorated with interesting sculptures, and there is even a small Orthodox Church of St. George the Victorious, which fits perfectly into the architectural mood of the complex.
Tsagan Aman
Almost 300 km from Elista there is an amazing place called Tsagan Aman. In ancient times, it served as a traditional outpost for crossing the Volga for the Scythians, Pechenegs, Cumans and other peoples who inhabited these lands, and was called the “White Gate”. There is also a beautiful temple here - the Tsagan-Aman Khurul, established in the early 90s next to the house in which Lama Tugmyud-Gavdzhi once lived and served. This temple is a beautiful example of Buddhist architecture with an elegant pagoda with a golden roof decorated with wooden carvings. On the walls of the temple hang icons depicting the protector goddess Green Tara, the health-giving Buddha Manla and other Buddhist deities, brought from Mongolia and Tibet, as well as bronze sculptures made by craftsmen from Nepal.
Republic of Kalmykia - beautiful and interesting region, unlike most Russian cities and regions, which makes it even more interesting for travel.
A map of Kalmykia with regions and transport routes clearly demonstrates that you can get to this region in a variety of ways.
Passengers can use air transport or ground transportation. Satellite map Kalmykia demonstrates car roads, which lead to Kalmykia from Stavropol, Volgograd and other regions.
Line segment railway tracks Elista-Divnoye commutes with the rest of the railway network. But in most cases, passengers purchase tickets for a train in Stavropol, an air or bus flight.
- purchasing a ticket for bus route Moscow - Elista, expect that the travel time will be about a day;
- in Moscow you can buy a plane ticket to Elista from Ruslan Airlines, but these flights are very rare;
- You can get to Kalmykia with a transfer by taking a flight to Stavropol, and from there by train or bus.
There is only one airport on the territory of Kalmykia, which is located in Elista. This air complex receives flights from Rostov-on-Don, Moscow, and Mineralnye Vody.
Map of the Republic of Kalmykia with all cities
An online map of Kalmykia with borders shows a vast steppe territory with lakes and several large settlements.
Before heading to the republic, you need to explore the region, find out what attractions there are. It is best to start getting acquainted with the capital of Kalmykia - Elista. This small but beautiful city, founded in the 19th century, is a kind of oasis in the steppe, where 100 thousand inhabitants settled.
Elista is distinguished by its Buddhist flavor; here are the pearls of Buddhist culture - the Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni Temple. This temple houses many Buddhist relics.
Fans of interesting leisure activities will enjoy the City Chess area. It was built specifically for the 33rd World Chess Olympiad. The Chess Palace is located in the central part, and the complex itself is filled with small cottages, creating the feeling of being in a European town.
Tsagan Aman is located 300 kilometers from Elista. Here is an amazing example of Buddhist architecture, the Tsagan-Aman Khurul Temple.
Elista is the capital of the Republic of Kalmykia and is considered the chess capital of Russia. Everything here is imbued with the spirit of chess, and many of the city’s attractions are connected specifically with chess. Elista often hosts major international chess tournaments with the participation of the most famous chess grandmasters in the world. And Elista, together with Ulan-Ude, is one of the largest Buddhist centers in Russia. Today I will show you this glorious city. 2. Elista was founded in 1865. And nine years earlier, Russian Emperor Nicholas II, by his decree, ordered the planting of forests on the Kalmyk steppes. Naturally, there was a need for people who would do this. The founder of Elista is considered to be Stepan Prokopyevich Kiykov, a former serf. In 1862, he built the first house on the territory of modern Elista. In 1865 it was already a small village consisting of 10 households. 3. Monument to the hero of the Patriotic War of 1812, commander of the second Astrakhan Kalmyk regiment, Prince Serbedzhab Tyumen. It is installed at the entrance to the city from the eastern side. 4. South Gate of the Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni. They are built in traditional oriental style and painted in three colors - red, blue and gold. The gate looks very beautiful and solemn, because according to Buddhist traditions, it is the South Gate that is considered the main entrance to the territory of the Golden Monastery. 5. Golden Abode of Buddha Shakyamuni. Buryatia is usually considered the center of Buddhism in Russia. But the largest Buddhist temple (not only in Russia, but also in Europe) is located in Kalmykia, in the center of Elista. The building is shaped like a mandala and seems to float in space, surrounded by a fence with many white stupas. A wonderful garden with fountains, statues and spinning prayer wheels completes the picture. It is here that the largest 12-meter Buddha statue in Europe and Russia, covered with gold leaf and diamonds, is located. 6. 7. 8. The doors of the temple have been open since the end of December 2005, a year after the visit of His Holiness the Dalai Lama XIV. The building has everything necessary for a Buddhist - a library, a Tibetan doctor's reception room, a prayer hall, meditation rooms and the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama. 9. We were lucky, we walked a little at a Kalmyk wedding) 10. Monument to Ubashi Khan, this is an exact copy of the monument to the last Kalmyk Khan Ubashi, located in the city of Bulgan (Mongolia). 11. 12. 13. The Seven Days Pagoda is located in the central square of the city of Elista. The pagoda got its name due to its seven tiers, symbolizing the seven days of the week. In the very center there is a copper prayer drum, about 2 meters high, covered with gold leaf. It is designed to give harmony and peace to the residents of the city. It contains 75 million mantras. According to the Buddhist tradition, one rotation of the drum with pure thoughts is equivalent to reading all these mantras. 14. 15. Light and musical fountain “Three Lotuses”. Lotus flowers in Buddhism symbolize purity. 16. Monument to V.I. Lenin was moved three times in the square. In 1970, it was opened. In 1995, the monument was turned 180 degrees so that it faced the deity of Buddha Shakyamuni, which was installed in the square in 1995. And in 2005, the monument was moved closer to the Meeting Hall of the Government House. Now the monument to V.I. Lenin is located on the same square bearing his name, but not in the very center. 17. 18. 19. 20. Fountain “Boy and Dragon” in Friendship Park. Three living boys are cooling off in it. And the boy himself perched to the left of the Dragon, he is not visible :) 21. 22. Golden Gate Altn Bosch. The gate is a tall golden arch made in the traditional Buddhist style. The arch is supported by thin red columns. Its height is 15 meters. The outside of the arch is decorated with 28 paintings by artist Nikolai Borisov; the drawings depict the most important events of Kalmyk history. It is believed that the one who passes under the arch is spiritually purified, and all his desires are fulfilled. 23. The sculpture “Tsagan Aav” is a sculpture of a mythological creature of the pre-Buddhist period, revered by the Kalmyk people as their patron. Tsagan Aav is translated from the Kalmyk language as “White Elder”. It is a symbol of eternity, purity, harmony and unity. 24. Golden Buddha Pagoda in Druzhba Park. This is the only example where the statue was installed on the street, and not in the premises of a Buddhist temple. The statue of Shakyamuni Buddha is enclosed inside a hexagonal rotunda - a pagoda. The statue is made of white marble. But, in Last year Buddha is covered with a yellow robe. 25. 26. Tree of wishes, lovers come here and leave locks 27. 28. House of Soviets. Built in 1928-1932. as a building for the regional Kalmyk committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks. Architectural monument of federal significance. Currently, the building houses the First Building of Kalmyk University. 29. 30. Cinema 31. Monument to A.S. Pushkin. Probably, there are monuments to Pushkin and Lenin in everyone Russian city) 32. 33. 34. Monument to Dzhangarchi Eelyan Ovla, Kalmyk Dzhangarchi, that is, singer and storyteller. From him the Kalmyk people heard songs from the folklore work “Dzhangar” for the first time. This is the most famous Kalmyk epic, known throughout the world. Eelyan Ovl came from a family of storytellers; from childhood he was trained to become a dzhangarchi and taught to sing epic songs to people. In 1908, the scientist Nomto Ochirov recorded all the songs performed by Eelyan. 35. In front of the Elista Hotel building there is a sculpture “Dragon Lu” - a large stone statue depicting a lying dragon, stylized in an oriental manner. The sculpture was created by the famous Tuvan sculptor Kh. Dongak. He created his sculpture according to all the canons of the ancient art of Tuvan stone carving. The material was greenish agalmolite, a beautiful fine-grained stone. 36. Memorial complex “Alley of Heroes”. The central figure of the composition is a bronze monument to the legendary Kalmyk military leader Lieutenant General Basan Badminovich Gorodovikov. Behind the monument there are two memorial walls with bronze bas-reliefs of twenty-four Heroes Soviet Union and Russia and thirty-three Heroes of Socialist Labor who are in any way connected with the Republic of Kalmykia. 37. 38. 39. I haven’t seen this for about twenty years, and only in the movies :) 40. In 1998, the city of Chess (City Chess) was built in Elista, which was opened for the 33rd World Chess Olympiad . The official literary name of City Chessa is New Vasyuki. 41. Ostap Bender and 12 chairs. The first monument to this famous character was erected here. The author of the sculpture was the architect A. Khachaturyan. He portrayed the son of a Turkish citizen - Ostap Ibrahimovich Bender Bey. He is dressed in his usual suit - smart trousers and boots. The jacket is open, a scarf is carelessly wrapped around the neck, and a cap is on the head. The right hand of the bronze Ostap lies in his trouser pocket, and in his left hand he holds a chess piece - a knight. The monument was erected in the new City Chess microdistrict - the new chess capital. 42. In the center of City Chessa there is the Mikhail Tal Museum of Chess Glory. Initially, the museum was opened as a chess museum, and it became the only museum of this kind in the world. The museum consists of two parts. The first contains an exhibition entirely dedicated to chess: various chess tournaments and chess players; interesting chess boards and pieces, cups, winners’ trophies, paintings, and documents are also presented here. In the second part you can see the personal belongings of Mikhail Tal himself; there are about 3000 of them. You can always play chess in the museum; tables with boards are placed in special game rooms, which are never empty.
