Tips for tourists on setting up a bivouac. Festival management c) heavy rain

Tourists must be able to find a safe and comfortable place to relax, quickly set up a tent, and if there is none, build a temporary shelter, and light a fire in any weather.

For each bivouac, choose a flat, dry place protected from the wind, near which there is firewood and water.

For a lunch break you need to sit in the shade, for the night - on a flat area with soft soil.

In the mountains, the camp should not be located where there may be rockfalls, avalanches, landslides, mud flows (mudflows), where there may be flooding by a mountain river. Before choosing a place for bivouac, they look to see if there are recently fallen (lighter) stones nearby, and move away from high rocks where rockfalls are possible. You should not camp on the moraine; if there is no other way out, you need to choose a flat, not steep area and check whether the stones from the top of the moraine will roll to where you plan to put up the tents. Sometimes you have to level the area for a tent.

You cannot set up a bivouac in a dry bed of a mountain river or on the shallows near the water itself, since at night rain for several hours, and sometimes tens of minutes, can sharply raise the water level or cause a mud flow.

In the taiga, you should not camp in dense bushes or coniferous thickets due to the risk of forest fire and mosquitoes. We must ensure that there are no dry, rotten trees nearby that could be blown over by the wind. It is better to choose a place to spend the night in a sparse coniferous forest, where the soil is covered with fallen dry pine needles, and tree branches cannot catch fire from a fire.

Rice. 66. Methods of securing a tent

In the steppe, parking is made behind a hillock, in a ravine, to shelter from the wind. In northern tundra regions, drier areas can be found on river terraces, rocky or sandy soil elevations.

Near the river (during a water trip), the camp should be set up not far from the water, preferably on the shore, illuminated by the sun in the morning.

The site for the night bivouac begins to be looked after 15-20 minutes before the stop. All participants carry out the work of organizing it: one or two light a fire, bring water and start cooking, others collect firewood for the evening and morning, set up tents, and place things in them. Some of the backpacks and food that do not fit in the tent are put in one place and, in case of rain at night, carefully covered with raincoats or waterproof material. Things should not be scattered throughout the camp to avoid them being lost in stones, grass or sand. Axes are always stored in the same place.

For the tent, choose a flat area without hummocks, holes and stumps, remove all knots and stones. The platform must be horizontal: even a slight slope will interfere with normal rest. If the tent is placed next to trees, you can tie guy ropes to some of them (Fig. 66).

Dry leaves, small dry twigs, grass, ferns, reeds or moss are placed under the floor of the tent, and when sleeping on snow and ice, ropes, empty backpacks, and windbreakers are placed on the floor inside the tent. As already mentioned, rugs made from sticks are good.

Having unfolded the tent, they stretch the floor between pegs driven into the ground. Then the poles are placed - either exactly at the height of the tent (then they are installed inside), or above the tent (then they are placed 30-40 cm from it) - and the main guys are pulled.

Before tightening the roof braces, fasten the entrance. Pegs for corner braces are driven in so that the ropes are like a continuation of the diagonals of the rectangles of the roof slopes. After all the pegs are hammered in, they adjust the length of the guy ropes, and sometimes change the location of the pegs, ensuring that there is not a single fold on the roof panels and at the same time, the tension force of the ropes does not tear the fabric.

The pegs are driven in with the butt of an ax at an angle of 45° to the ground. To set up a tent you need 10 pegs (preferably metal) 20-25 cm long and 2 poles. Both should be prepared in advance and carried along with the tent (the poles are folding). Instead of racks, you can use alpenstocks or 2 ice axes connected to each other with auxiliary ropes.

In the mountains, before setting up the tent, guy lines are tied to large stones and the stones are moved to the desired place to regulate the tension of the ropes. In the forest, guy ropes are secured to trees, and the floor is stretched between the pegs last. The main guys must be tied to the trees at such a height that the side walls of the tent do not raise the floor, but also do not sag.

In rainy weather, to protect against water flowing from the roof of the tent, you can dig a ditch around it, 8-10 cm deep and wide, with a groove that drains water along the slope of the area.

The back wall of the tent is positioned towards the wind. After sunset, the entrance to the tent should be closed so that things do not become damp when dew falls. When it rains, you must not touch the roof, otherwise it will get wet. Warm clothes (padded jackets, blankets, etc.) are placed on the floor, and backpacks with soft things are placed under the head. Pockets on the side and back walls of the tent contain electric flashlights, safety glasses, toiletries, compasses, etc. Axes in a case can be placed under the floor of the tent at the “entrance”, and boots inside it at the “exit”.

If you don’t have a tent (on a one-day hike), you can spend the night under a piece of tarpaulin or polyethylene, using branches to build a lean-to or gable awning. You can make an inclined barrier out of blankets and light a long fire in front of it at a distance of 2-2.5 m from the tourists lying under the barrier.

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Message from: Belieber
Everything is fine, but... Literacy is zero. And stupid mistakes! -. —

budetinteresno.info

So, we are in nature, in a fighting mood and a new tent and ready to set it up) Where to start? Before setting up the tent, you should find a level, dry and easily ventilated place. Clear it of foreign objects - cones, twigs, stones, which can not only disturb your sleep, causing inconvenience, but also damage the bottom of the tent. There should be no hummocks, mounds, or protruding tree roots on the ground.

Be careful with anthills - such a neighborhood is unlikely to bring joy. It should be taken into account that dense trees will prevent the tent from drying and ventilating, however, if installed in the open rays of the sun, the tent will heat up during the day.

The golden mean is important here. When choosing a place for a tent, you need to remember that if it rains, you don’t want to end up in a puddle of water rushing down the slope. Ultraviolet rays negatively affect the PU coating, so place the tent in the shade if possible. If during the day the tent will be exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, cover it with an awning.

For safety reasons when camping, the tent should not be placed too close to the fire, because even a small spark can damage it, the same applies to hot objects that, in contact with the material, can easily burn a hole. At the same time, do not forget that a suitable place must be found, and not created, you should not destroy vegetation and level the terrain within a radius of several meters, it is better to just look for a more convenient place;)

The diagram will help you set up the tent; if you strictly follow the instructions and follow the sequence of work, there will be no problems. It is best to familiarize yourself with the design of the tent at home, so you will not get confused in its assembly, and at the same time check whether all the necessary components of the tent (arcs, pegs, awning) are in place.

You need to stretch the surface of the tent without distortions, evenly with all stretch marks, avoiding folds and kinks, which can lead to fraying of the fabric. When installing, make sure that there is no contact between the awning and the inner tent, otherwise condensation from the inside of the awning will end up inside the tent itself. The pegs are stuck into the ground at an angle of approximately 45°, at? length, otherwise they may warp or jump out from tension.

When going inside the tent, leave dirty shoes and wet outerwear either outside or in the dressing room. Do not smoke inside or use open flames. Even if everything goes well, there will be traces of burning on the inner surface. When assembling the tent, do not forget to shake it out and remove all foreign objects.

When assembling the arcs, pay attention to the joints of the tubes - there should be no gaps between the elements. It is better to start dismantling the arcs from the middle and fold them in pairs. This will not only extend the life of the elastic due to uniform stretching, but will also make disassembly easier - it will be faster and require less space.

It is advisable to fold the tent in different ways each time so that there are no permanent folds in the fabric, otherwise over the years the permanent folds in the fabric will wear out.

Caring for a tent at home

Before taking a new tent with you on a hike, it is advisable to assemble it at home in order to become familiar with the method of assembling it in comfortable and familiar conditions. At the same time, you will check whether all the necessary components of the tent (such as poles, pegs, awning) are in place.
THE MOST IMPORTANT RULE: the tent must be stored DRY! If you store your tent in a wet or damp condition, be prepared for mold to form on it.

Every time after a hike, you need to reassemble the tent at home and make sure that it is well dried. If moisture is present, leave the disassembled tent in a well-ventilated area until it is completely dry. Let us note once again that you should not leave the tent in direct sunlight.
If you have such an opportunity, it is better to store the tent without a packing bag. Do not store the tent in damp basements or in hot attics.

Don't forget that not only the inner tent must be dry, but also the awning. If you are caught in the rain while assembling your tent, and you have no choice but to fold the wet awning, try to set aside time during the day to dry it. Ideally, after sunset.
Caring for a tent in the field

The biggest enemy of a tent is humidity. The tent must be stored DRY. Therefore, if the weather permits, dry the tent thoroughly before assembling and packing. If this is not possible, be sure to dry it at home immediately upon your return.
It is not advisable to roll up tents that have not been dried out tightly. In a humid environment, the PU coating in folds and folds may come off, and the water resistance of the tent in these places will be lost.

Protect the tent from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.
Remove contaminants in a timely manner; they lead to rotting of the material. Zippers should not become clogged with dirt.
Under NO circumstances should you wash the awning in the washing machine! Otherwise, there is a risk of snags on the fabric, damage to the water-repellent coating, and hot water and heat can distort the material.
It is better to use laundry or baby soap as detergents. If the dirt is very stubborn, a SOFT sponge will help. The water should be warm (no more than +40 °C). Do not rub too hard) It is best to wash it straightened out. Then dry thoroughly.
Over time, the protective water-repellent coating weakens. There are many modern special impregnations for restoration, for example Nikwax. This will help solve the problem for a short time and allows the awning to last for some more time.
Repair any minor damage as soon as possible, this will make further use of the tent easier and will prevent the damage from getting worse.
By following these simple recommendations, you will keep your tent in working condition for a long time!
Enjoy your hikes!

Seams and waterproofing

Tents with unfinished seams allowing moisture to pass through must be hand-sealed using seam sealant (liquid or glue) and a fine brush/applicator. When processing, you must follow the instructions included with the sealant. It is advisable to process seams in an open area outside the house. A shiny finish on a seam indicates that a water-repellent polyurethane coating was applied to it during production.
Do not forget that with long-term use of the tent, the seam coating weakens; therefore, the seams are re-treated with sealant.
A water-repellent coating can also be applied to the walls of the inner tent and its flysheet, as the protective layer of the tent weakens over time. In this case, use the same water-repellent agents as for outer membrane clothing. Single-wall tents (primarily used by mountaineers) are made from waterproof, breathable material. For these tents, water-repellent agents are used when they want to update its properties.

Most often, the inner tent and awning are produced with already treated, taped seams. This is necessary in order to hide small holes from the needle that form when sewing two pieces of material.

One exception: tents (usually very light models) with a flysheet made of silicone-treated nylon.

How to arrange a bivouac

RULES OF BEHAVIOR IN NATURE

RULES FOR SETTING UP A BIVACK (HOLIDAY CAMP)

Since the greatest harm to nature is caused by long-term bivouac, let's look at the rules for organizing just such a bivouac. It should be noted that it is unlikely that it will be possible to completely eliminate damage during the construction of a bivouac; we can only talk about him minimization. It should also be noted that sometimes environmental regulations conflict with safety regulations.

It is best to arrange bivouacs where you have already stopped People. If this place is littered, before setting up a tent camp it is necessary to carry out cleaning territories.

1). The place for the construction of a bivouac (tents, fire pit, garbage pit, toilet, etc.) should be selected based on security schoolchildren, and should try to follow the rules of behavior in the wild to the maximum extent possible.

2). If a water protection zone is defined near a reservoir, a bivouac must be placed beyond.

3). You cannot set up a bivouac in clearings covered moss. The moss layer will be torn off in the first hours.

4). The bivouac is installed in such a way that damage as little as possible vegetation.

5). If the bivouac is long-term or crowded, it is necessary to plan and mark out, and then protect stone paths along which its participants will walk - otherwise all the vegetation on the territory will be trampled! It is better to take stones from placers, and not to pick out separately lying ones from the ground, since under them over many years a small world has formed, which is so easy to destroy.

6). Tents should be installed in areas free of trees and shrubs; cutting them down to set up a tent is unacceptable.

7). Racks for tents you need to bring it with you, in extreme cases use dead wood. It is unacceptable to cut down living trees for stands.

8). Pegs To secure tent guy lines, you should also have ready-made ones. However, it should be remembered that a peg driven into the soil, after being removed, leaves a hole that can give rise to erosion processes. For this reason, it is better to fasten guy ropes to stones. You can also use tree trunks for this purpose, but not their branches or bushes, because the guy may simply tear off or damage the branch.

9). Completely unacceptable ditch tent, i.e. build a drainage ditch around it. If the tent is installed incorrectly, the rain groove will not protect you from the rain; A properly installed tent does not need a groove. No matter how the ditch is leveled later, the process of soil erosion will still begin from there.

10). Cannot be used as tent bedding spruce branches dwarf cedar, larch branches and moss.

eleven). One of the top priorities when organizing a long-term camp is toilet construction; when organizing a short-term bivouac (for one or two days) - choosing a place to perform natural needs.

12). Pits for food waste and toilets, it is necessary to dig no closer than 50 meters from the shore of the reservoir. The turf cut from the pit construction site must be placed in a shady place and periodically moistened with water.

13). When leaving the bivouac, you need to do everything carefully put away- the place must be perfectly clean. Stones taken for setting up a fire pit, paths, or for setting up tents must be returned to where they were taken from. Garbage and toilet pits must be carefully filled with compacted soil and turf placed on top.

Other pages in the “Educational Programs” section:

www.ecosystema.ru

How to arrange a bivouac

Our goal is to provide residents of the region with affordable, high-quality and environmentally friendly meat and dairy products, and, therefore, ultimately contribute to ensuring food independence and security of Russia.

The traditional tourist rally of the Sayan Broiler Agricultural Holding took place on June 18 and 19 on the Oka River. This year the theme of the tour meeting was Russian cinema.

In total, 14 teams took part in the event: teams from production units of the main production - a poultry farm in Sayansk, a team from OJSC Trud from Irkutsk, OP Megetskoye from Meget, OP KhPP from Kuitun, TD Sayansky Broiler, OJSC Kuitunskaya Niva "

They competed in several types: the main type - passing the tourist strip, water crossing, presentation of bivouacs, cooking, amateur art competition, volleyball, bullet shooting, darts, hula hoop spinning.

The winners in the overall team competition were the Hatchery team,

In lifting weights: once again the best result is from Yuri Otmorsky (55 presses). Spinning hula hoop - the best result - Senko Anastasia. The most accurate in throwing darts was Pshechenko Krestina (130 points). Yuri Okorokov won among men and Olesya Romanova among women. The JSC Trud team received a prize and a certificate for the best greeting.

The teams took a creative approach to the design of the bivouacs. Both the bivouac and the dish were decorated according to the theme of the film chosen by the team. It was difficult for the jury to evaluate the competition, because... the entire clearing turned into a single film studio.

The presentation of bivouacs and dishes was attended by State Duma Deputy S.Yu. Ten, Chairman of the Board of Directors V.V. Bukhanov, and Mayor of the Sayan Municipal District O.V. Borovsky.

The rain prevented the amateur art competition from being held as scheduled. It was held on Sunday, June 19th. 1st place - management, 2nd place - feed shop, 3rd place - PJSC Kuitunskaya Niva.

The winners and runners-up were awarded diplomas and prizes. All teams that took part in the tourist rally were awarded certificates and valuable gifts.

www.s-broiler.ru

Test of strength

Last Saturday, the traditional fifth city tourist rally of working and student youth started in the picturesque clearing of the Zhuravlik recreation center.

It was dedicated today to the Year of Russian Cosmonautics and the 50th anniversary of Yuri Gagarin's flight into space. This day was also declared the Day of Sobriety in the Sverdlovsk region, and our tourist athletes willingly supported the initiative.

I must say that the day turned out to be unusually cold. Just yesterday it was summer, the sun was scorching hot, but here it hid behind the clouds and indifferently watched everything from the vastness of the gloomy sky.

But tourists, accustomed to the surprises of the Ural weather, were not at all embarrassed by this. Many teams arrived at the competition site the evening of the previous day, set up tents, removed the turf, lit fires, once again practiced passing difficult stages of the distance, set up their bivouacs, and spent the night in nature.

And at dawn the rest arrived. The forest clearing was again filled with the sounds of a working chainsaw and an ax (ready-made logs are brought with you). A savory spirit emanated from the fires, and morning tea flavored with smoke and herbs began to boil in pots. Every bonfire has jokes, laughter, music. Everyone completely forgot about the bad weather! But in vain: she, mother, has increased the extreme level in the coming day.

And so - the formation, the ceremonial raising of the Russian flag and... first a minute of silence in memory of the athletes of the Yaroslavl hockey team "Lokomotiv" who tragically died in the plane crash and the crew of the crashed plane. Then - welcoming words from the head of the city district Viktor Grishin, the chief judge of the competition Boris Bersenev, the head of the department for physical culture, sports and youth policy of the city district administration Natalya Andrievskaya, a member of the political council of the United Russia party, an assistant to the deputy of the city Duma Viktor Gusev. Well, and the presentation of the teams in the first competition of the rally - the “Greeting Competition”. Short, bright speeches, interesting costumes. By all appearances, the teams prepared seriously.

The mutual greeting ended. Victor Vasilyevich wished tourists a wise and sober lifestyle, health, and perseverance in achieving their goals. Natalya Andrievskaya and Boris Bersenev - worthy fight in the upcoming sports and creative competitions. And then... Then the cooks remain at the fires, the teams go to the start in the most difficult and important stage of the sports tourism competition - the “Obstacle Course”. The length of the distance is about 4 kilometers (now it is longer than last year and takes place in a different place), there are eleven stages, the elevation difference is 100 meters. Separate start, interval – 5 minutes, distance class – first, high. A team of six people (including at least two girls) covers the distance independently, guided by a map of the area, and against time. The control time for the distance is 2.5 hours. A team that fails to meet this deadline is considered eliminated from the competition. Let me make a reservation right away: the tourists from the plant team - the winners of last year's rally - noted that the new distance is moderately difficult and very interesting: thanks to Dmitry Abramov, chairman of the Active Recreation Territory, and the employees of the Emergency Rescue Service. They were the ones who prepared and laid the route and set up the checkpoint.

Seventeen tourist teams, according to the draw, will start (the first at 10.30 am), having received a route map with control points marked on it. It is important to follow the order in which tasks are completed.

The stages are different. “Start with packing your backpack” (every little thing is serious!); “Moving on a slope with an alpenstock” - a special safety pole for moving on a slope; “Task Clearing” – for knowledge of international disaster codes; “Providing first aid and transporting a victim”; “Azimuthal movement with overcoming dense undergrowth” (up to 200 meters); “Crossing on a suspended log” suspended through a conditionally dangerous zone; "Orientation"; “Water stage”, which is a catamaran race at a distance of 300 meters in different swims according to the Olympic system, pair starts and singles qualification.

Stage "Get" This is where I remembered the morning weather extreme. Imagine: out of breath athletes come running to the shore of a pond - a small but deep swampy depression through which three wet poles are laid, crossed by short logs (conventional support points). There are six of these logs on a 15-meter section. Everything is within reach of the poles. Having stepped on this squelching, wet, support covered in knots, you need to take a pole after a few steps and lay it forward, to the next log, and then stand on it and, balancing, quickly run the segment. Then again take the pole in your hands, lay it to the next log... and so on for each team member, taking turns taking the last pole, until everyone finds themselves on a dry shore, without swimming in cold water and without even getting their feet wet.

The teams silently, concentratedly, without female hysterics, carried out the task very clearly. The girls were especially surprised. I stood on the shore and thought: “Well, just lose your balance a little, slip in your wet sneakers, get caught on a long pole - and you’re in icy water. To the brave! So extreme sports turned out to be a real test of strength, and even with such a rich competition program, which only those who are prepared can perform.

By one o'clock in the afternoon, all the sports stages had been completed and the members of the panel of judges went on a visit. It was necessary to visit all the bivouacs, sum up the results of the competition for the best bivouac and the best tourist lunch. This is where the theme of the rally came into full focus: space. What kind of space dishes did the jury members try! Soups cooked over a fire and poured into pumpkin containers that look like an alien ship. All kinds of salads laid out in the shape of a flying saucer, an unidentified space object, and even vegetable cakes in the shape of a comet or rocket. The aesthetics of the execution of the dishes conflicted with the taste qualities, which confused the tasting panel of judges. But lunchtime whetted our appetite – and we tried everything!

Each bivouac was greeted with a warm, cheerful greeting from the team. Poems and songs with a guitar, participation of children - little fans: their drawings, crafts on a space theme. And everyone did a great job decorating the bivouacs. The jury members did not see abandoned garbage, broken trees or bushes anywhere. Each team presented its feature, according to its name. Well, as for the theme of the rally, here everyone’s imagination was in full swing. About space in so many different ways and so interesting! Wearing space helmets and suits, sitting in flying saucers made from tents, the rally participants talked about space as their native element. No one even expected that tourists were capable of this - people walking with a backpack on their backs ON THE GROUND.

And now - the award ceremony. The names of the winning teams sound over the large clearing. The jubilant winners of the rally come forward to loud applause and encouraging shouts from fans (and rivals!). Simply participants are also noted. Gifts and applause for everyone.

A diploma for first place in the open City tourist rally of working and student youth, dedicated to the year of Russian cosmonautics and the 50th anniversary of Yu.A. Gagarin’s space flight, was awarded to the first (strongest) group of teams A: team “Prometheus” of the Federal Fire Service No. 6 Second place is awarded to the team “Yasen stump!” youth public organization of the Elektrokhimpribor plant. Third place went to the “Pilot” team (Federal State Unitary Enterprise “Electrokhimpribor Plant”).

In the second group of teams B, the winner's diploma is awarded to the Ultra-Mega team (Ural Furniture). Second place goes to the team “Artisans of the Galaxy” (professional team No. 78). The “Mobile” team (Department of Education) receives a diploma for third place.

In the “Obstacle Course” category, the first in group “A” were tourists from the Elektrokhimpribor plant - the “Pilot” team; in group “B” - team “Europe” (general education center “Europe”);

In the nomination “Water stage” in group “A” the first place went to the team “Prometheus” (FPS No. 6); in group “B” - the team “Gagariki” (social rehabilitation center “Chaika”);

In the category “Tourist Lunch” in group “A” the team “Torglandia” (consumer market) won; in group “B” - the team “Slaughter League” (OMVD); and there were no winners in the “Best Bivouac” category - everyone distinguished themselves!

In the nominations announced by the territorial organization of the United Russia party, the winners were: in the nomination “A healthy mind in a healthy body!” - team “Bodybuilders” (SKDC “Sovremennik”); in the category “Patience and work - everything will grind!” - Team “Jedi” (TIYAU MEPhI); in the nomination “Our strength is in unity” - the Medsanbat team (TsMSCh-91).

The meeting went smoothly and orderly. Much credit for this goes to the youth department of the administration in the person of Natalia Andrievskaya, Tatyana Kudelkina, Tatyana Napalkova, Inna Popova. And of course, the tourists themselves, who love this gathering, wait for it and prepare for it every year.

...The flag was lowered, the fires were extinguished, but the light of a good and faithful tradition remained in the soul - making friends, loving nature and being on friendly terms with it.

(S. N. Boldyrev)

Tourists must be able to find a safe and comfortable place to relax, quickly set up a tent, and if there is none, build a temporary shelter, and light a fire in any weather.

For each bivouac, choose a flat, dry place protected from the wind, near which there is firewood and water.

For a lunch break you need to sit in the shade, for the night - on a flat area with soft soil.

In the mountains, the camp should not be located where there may be rockfalls, avalanches, landslides, mud flows (mudflows), where there may be flooding by a mountain river. Before choosing a place for bivouac, they look to see if there are recently fallen (lighter) stones nearby, and move away from high rocks where rockfalls are possible. You should not camp on the moraine; if there is no other way out, you need to choose a flat, not steep area and check whether the stones from the top of the moraine will roll to where you plan to put up the tents. Sometimes you have to level the area for a tent.

You cannot set up a bivouac in a dry bed of a mountain river or on the shallows near the water itself, since at night rain for several hours, and sometimes tens of minutes, can sharply raise the water level or cause a mud flow.

In the taiga, you should not camp in dense bushes or coniferous thickets due to the risk of forest fire and mosquitoes. We must ensure that there are no dry, rotten trees nearby that could be blown over by the wind. It is better to choose a place to spend the night in a sparse coniferous forest, where the soil is covered with fallen dry pine needles, and tree branches cannot catch fire from a fire.

Rice. 66. Methods of securing a tent

In the steppe, parking is made behind a hillock, in a ravine, to shelter from the wind. In northern tundra regions, drier areas can be found on river terraces, rocky or sandy soil elevations.

Near the river (during a water trip), the camp should be set up not far from the water, preferably on the shore, illuminated by the sun in the morning.

The site for the night bivouac begins to be looked after 15-20 minutes before the stop. All participants carry out the work of organizing it: one or two light a fire, bring water and start cooking, others collect firewood for the evening and morning, set up tents, and place things in them. Some of the backpacks and food that do not fit in the tent are put in one place and, in case of rain at night, carefully covered with raincoats or waterproof material. Things should not be scattered throughout the camp to avoid them being lost in stones, grass or sand. Axes are always stored in the same place.

For the tent, choose a flat area without hummocks, holes and stumps, remove all knots and stones. The platform must be horizontal: even a slight slope will interfere with normal rest. If the tent is placed next to trees, you can tie guy ropes to some of them (Fig. 66).

Dry leaves, small dry twigs, grass, ferns, reeds or moss are placed under the floor of the tent, and when sleeping on snow and ice, ropes, empty backpacks, and windbreakers are placed on the floor inside the tent. As already mentioned, rugs made from sticks are good.

Having unfolded the tent, they stretch the floor between pegs driven into the ground. Then the poles are placed - either exactly at the height of the tent (then they are installed inside), or above the tent (then they are placed 30-40 cm from it) - and the main guys are pulled.

Before tightening the roof braces, fasten the entrance. Pegs for corner braces are driven in so that the ropes are like a continuation of the diagonals of the rectangles of the roof slopes. After all the pegs are hammered in, they adjust the length of the guy ropes, and sometimes change the location of the pegs, ensuring that there is not a single fold on the roof panels and at the same time, the tension force of the ropes does not tear the fabric.

The pegs are driven in with the butt of an ax at an angle of 45° to the ground. To set up a tent you need 10 pegs (preferably metal) 20-25 cm long and 2 poles. Both should be prepared in advance and carried along with the tent (the poles are folding). Instead of racks, you can use alpenstocks or 2 ice axes connected to each other with auxiliary ropes.

In the mountains, before setting up the tent, guy lines are tied to large stones and the stones are moved to the desired place to regulate the tension of the ropes. In the forest, guy ropes are secured to trees, and the floor is stretched between the pegs last. The main guys must be tied to the trees at such a height that the side walls of the tent do not raise the floor, but also do not sag.

In rainy weather, to protect against water flowing from the roof of the tent, you can dig a ditch around it, 8-10 cm deep and wide, with a groove that drains water along the slope of the area.

The back wall of the tent is positioned towards the wind. After sunset, the entrance to the tent should be closed so that things do not become damp when dew falls. When it rains, you must not touch the roof, otherwise it will get wet. Warm clothes (padded jackets, blankets, etc.) are placed on the floor, and backpacks with soft things are placed under the head. Pockets on the side and back walls of the tent contain electric flashlights, safety glasses, toiletries, compasses, etc. Axes in a case can be placed under the floor of the tent at the “entrance”, and boots inside it at the “exit”.

If you don’t have a tent (on a one-day hike), you can spend the night under a piece of tarpaulin or polyethylene, using branches to build a lean-to or gable awning. You can make an inclined barrier out of blankets and light a long fire in front of it at a distance of 2-2.5 m from the tourists lying under the barrier.

Temporary and base camps are arranged on each hike for recreation and various events. The main requirement for parking is safety. To do this, you need to take into account natural factors: the presence of water, wild animals, snakes, insects, rockfalls, waterfalls, etc. Do not break under dry trees or branches - this poses a danger in case of bad weather. You cannot set up a camp under separate trees - in the event of a thunderstorm, such a camp will be dangerous. In addition to natural factors, it is necessary to take into account the crime situation - the presence of nearby settlements, busy roads, etc.

When developing a route, the group leader must outline where the camp will be, in what place, taking into account the availability of drinking water, sufficient good firewood and brushwood for cooking over a fire, and whether the camp site itself is safe. He must foresee and think through all these questions in advance. As mentioned above, any trek leader should study the route well and imagine in what terrain or area the group’s path passes.

Proper installation of tents is one of the main conditions for safe parking. The tents are placed at a safe distance from each other so that they do not interfere with the tension of the ropes (braces), so that there is enough space for passage between them. Tents are set up on an elevated place, blown by the wind (from mosquitoes and midges). The need to install them on a flat and elevated part is so that during rain water does not get under the tents and wet all things. If it is not possible to install it so that rainwater does not wet the bottom of the tents, then small grooves are dug around the tent to drain the water, and the drainage is diverted to the side.

The exit of the tents is positioned in the direction of the wind so that it does not blow inward, and away from the forest or other obstacles. For safety, all tent exits must be free for evacuation during natural phenomena. The area under the tents is cleared of debris, cones, twigs and other bulky objects that will interfere with your rest.

In swampy areas or on flooded areas of land where camping is planned, special scaffolding is installed from poles and branches, on which the tent and all the necessary things are then installed to prevent them from getting wet during heavy and prolonged rain.

Each group with tents must have waterproof awnings or tent covers. If the tents are designed or sewn from waterproof fabric, then additional capes or awnings are not needed.

The tent camp is set up compactly and rationally, for ease of use by the participants themselves in the holiday camp. There is no point in setting up tents at a great distance from each other or in areas of poor visibility - all participants must be supervised by a leader.

On mountain hikes, for overnight stays on snow or glaciers, a plastic film is used, which is placed under the bottom of the tent to avoid getting wet during the night's rest. The film creates additional insulation from cold snow or ice.

It is better to sleep in a tent with your feet inward and your head towards the entrance.

All entrances to the tent should be easy to fasten and unfasten to avoid accidents during a quick evacuation.

All tents used by tourists should be convenient for organizing camp and relaxing after a hard and stressful day, optimal in size, and easily dismountable. The shape and color of the tent play a big role, having a strong psychological impact on the participants of the hike. If the tents are gloomy in appearance, have a complex design, are difficult to install, or leak during heavy rain, you will not be able to have a good rest. After such a rest, all participants in the hike remain in a depressed mood and psychological tension is created. The color of the tents should be varied and beautiful, and should please the eye even in bad weather. Tents should stand out brightly against the backdrop of green nature, white snow on winter hikes, and on gray rocks in the mountains. They must be seen from a great distance.

The fire and all fire equipment are located at a safe distance from the tent camp. They try to make the fire itself so that the wind blows in the opposite direction from the camp and the forest in order to prevent a fire or any kind of combustion. When setting up a fire, all fire safety requirements for lighting a fire in the forest are met. The clearing where the fire will be lit is cleared of dry grass or pine needles. Lighting a fire near dead wood is strictly prohibited. If there is turf, then carefully dig it out in small layers and lay it away from the fire or along the perimeter of the future fire pit site.

If special tagankas or fire stakes are used, this is only welcomed by environmentalists, while forests and bushes are saved from being cut down for racks for fire pits and dishware equipment.

After the camp is over, the fire is filled with water, all the firebrands are removed, and the previously removed turf is laid in place.

Special safety measures must be taken when near the river. There are cases when tourists die while getting drinking water from rivers. A steep bank without organized railings contributes to an emergency situation. This is also facilitated by the high speed of the river and the strong slope of the riverbed or bottom. The leader of the trip must warn all tourists how to behave on the river when organizing a camp.

Equipment for latrines. Natural human needs make us think about equipping camp latrines. Ignorance of the basic rules of their arrangement can lead to the fact that a beautiful corner of wild nature in 2-3 days will turn into a place unsuitable for human existence with countless flies.

The simplest types of camping latrines are the “cat hole” and the forest communal toilet.

The “cat hole” is dug in a secluded place at a distance of at least 75 meters from the camp and nearby paths. Using a shovel, make a small hole no more than 18 cm deep. It is at this depth that microorganisms live that can process natural human waste and a small amount of toilet paper.

After using the cat hole, fill it with previously removed soil and stick a stick on top as a warning signal to other members of the hike.

A forest toilet for collective use is equipped if it is planned to spend 2 nights or more at the parking site. Using a spatula, dig a shallow groove 35-40 cm wide and 120-150 cm long. The depth of the groove, for the same reasons as in the case of the “cat hole”, should not exceed 18 cm.

The cut turf and top layer of soil are not thrown away, but are carefully stored in one place. After each use of the latrine, it is covered with earth, and after the camp is closed, it is buried and covered with turf.

Making a fire

It is difficult to imagine any hiking trip without a fire. But making friends with a fire is not easy: you need to be able to light it correctly, know what kind of firewood it likes, how to make it burn for a long time without requiring a lot of firewood, and many other skills.

The principle of making a fire itself is simple. First, the kindling is ignited - some kind of material capable of producing a large enough flame for a short time so that it can ignite very thin dry branches as thick as a match. Then thicker branches, approaching the thickness of a pencil, are placed in the fire for good combustion. So, gradually thicker and thicker wood is put into the fire. It is clear that all firewood added to the fire must be dry.

Kindling is usually paper, less often birch bark. We must remember that it is unacceptable to remove birch bark from birch trees growing near the bivouac for kindling. Birch bark is usually stored for future use when a rotten or fallen tree is found during the transition.

Experienced tourists often do without paper or birch bark. As kindling, they use either a thin splinter, which is taken from the middle of a dry log, or a very dry branch. They can always be found near large spruce or dense young pine forests in the lower part of tree trunks.

However, it is better for a novice tourist to use both a small splinter and a cobweb as the first portion of fuel, which will go into the fire as soon as the kindling flares up.

Often in a coniferous forest, kindling lies under your feet - bend down and pick it up. These are dry pine needles and cones. They are the best material for starting a fire. Good material is located on pine trees - these are dead lower branches: they are very dry and can be lit with one match.

The kindling is usually placed in a place ready for the fire, and twigs or splinters from the first batch of fuel are placed on top of it, but not all the prepared firewood. They are added as the fire flares up and the first coals form.

The kindling should be lit from below on the leeward side, protecting the flame from strong winds. As soon as the kindling has flared up, twigs are placed on top of the fire and laid evenly at an angle. Fresh fuel should not be thrown into the fire at random. If branches or splinters fall in a dense layer, they will clog the fire and the fire will immediately go out. This is a common mistake of young tourists: as soon as the flame appears, they generously put pre-prepared firewood on it, as a result the fire subsides and the ignition has to be started again, wasting precious time and firewood.

An experienced tourist will never start lighting a fire until he has prepared the fuel necessary for the first time. He knows that he will not be able to move away from the fire until the branches are one and a half to two fingers thick. And the time he spends collecting this fuel will always be less than the time it takes to restart the fire.

There are many options for starting a fire in different climates and weather conditions. It is good to light a fire in dry weather, when there is a lot of dry brushwood. But the situation is completely different in rainy, cold, stormy weather. Lighting a fire becomes a big problem for inexperienced tourists.

The first thing tourists should pay attention to during preparations and during the hikes themselves is to ensure that the matches are well sealed. There are so many options for this. It's best to have reusable packaging. Nowadays you can buy matches in stores that burn even in water, so starting a fire with them in wet weather will not be difficult. But no matter how versatile matches are, everyone will still need the ability to assemble a fire correctly and light it.

In order not to find yourself in a difficult situation near an extinguished fire, you should take with you artificial kindling that is not afraid of moisture - dry alcohol tablets, pieces of plexiglass, a candle stub, even old toothbrush handles can come in handy.

Explosives and flammable substances, which are hazardous to health and, moreover, ineffective, should not be used as artificial kindling. Even if it is possible to find some way of using them that leads to combustion and not an explosion, such kindling will burn out so quickly that the firewood will not have time to ignite. Combustible substances - alcohol, gasoline, kerosene - are also ineffective. The branches doused with them light up instantly, but go out immediately as soon as the gasoline or alcohol burns out. And this happens extremely quickly, so that the branches or firewood do not even have time to dry out a little. And carrying gasoline in a canister with you is problematic.

There are many types of fires that have been used by tourists, fishermen, and hunters since ancient times. The main types of fires commonly used are shown on the reference page. It is better to remove firewood from the rain under a canopy or awning for drying and preservation. If a lot of firewood has been prepared and it is difficult to remove it under the awning of the tent, then it is necessary to cover it with plastic film, securing the ends with stones or other weights so as not to be blown away by the wind.

The black forest, noisy in the rain, seems cold and hostile; there is a desire to somehow pull up the tents and quickly hide in them, without eating or drying out. In a bad mood, people huddle in tents and shiver all night, warmed only by the warmth of their own bodies, and in the morning they get up tired and broken, although the rain has already stopped and the bright sun is shining, but the mood is heavy after a cold night and the whole hike goes down the drain.

But if you manage to light a good fire, despite the rain and wind, your mood immediately rises, warmth and light come from the fire, which fill people’s hearts with goodness and a feeling of happiness. The bivouac work goes on amicably and cheerfully, everyone manages to dry wet things, prepare a good dinner, and everyone is in a great mood. New plans are made for the next day. The first chords of the guitar are heard around the night fire.

Cookware and fire equipment

Group equipment also includes cooking utensils. With the exception of one-day hikes, where you can limit yourself to making tea and a simple snack with homemade sandwiches, it is recommended to take three different containers on a hike so that you can simultaneously cook the first, second and third courses over the fire. As the experience of hiking has shown, aluminum pots of different shapes that fit into each other are best suited for cooking. Depending on the composition of the group participants, the required volume of pots, that is, boiler equipment, is determined. It will be very difficult to feed a large group of 10-15 people with a 2-3 liter pot. Therefore, you need to check the volume of cooking pots in advance. For a large number of participants, large buckets are taken on a hike. But walking with buckets is simply difficult and inconvenient, and therefore it is recommended to limit the number of participants in the group to 8-10 people. Pots with a spherical bottom are inconvenient. Pots with a flat bottom are more practical - they are stable. When cooking in pots over a fire, they smoke and become dirty, so you need to have special covers for them. But you should always monitor the cleanliness of the pots and the dishes themselves. When there is free time, those on duty should thoroughly wash the soot from the pots so that it does not build up in a large layer. If possible, you should purchase lids for the pots to speed up cooking.

On any trip, it is advisable to have a ladle or a large pouring spoon. It is advisable to have a small piece of oilcloth in the kitchen to decorate the table. You can lay out food on it. If none of the participants has a folding knife with a blade for opening cans, then you need to take a special can opener on the hike. It is not advisable to open cans with a simple knife or ax.

Experienced tourists, standing by the fire, can usually quite deftly move or remove a hot pot without spilling a drop, using a small knotty stick. However, young tourists who do not have hiking skills are recommended to take a pair of canvas mittens on a hike for working with hot pots.

Items that support food preparation also include hooks for hanging buckets and pots, metal stands, flyers, homemade tagankas, and cable stretchers.

Let's look at some of them. Since the pots hang over the fire on one crossbar, removing them is always a problem: one needs to hold the crossbar, the other needs to remove hot soup or tea, and all this is done over a burning fire and therefore requires special care. The most widely used on camping trips now are various hanging hooks for hanging pots. They are mainly used to quickly hang or remove a pot over a fire. Special hooks allow you to adjust the height at which you can hang the pot over the fire. They also allow you to remove pots with already prepared food without touching the crossbars.

Campfire equipment:

• hooks for hanging pots
• pendant chains
• replaceable stops for racks
• collapsible Taganka

Cable equipment, which is described in many books, was also tested in the field and did not perform well. Firstly, the cable must be well stretched between the trees, and this is a big problem. Without the help of special systems or good efforts, it simply cannot be tightened. At a minimum, there should be two good trees nearby and the distance between them should be about 5-6 meters. The crown of the trees should not be low, as a fire will be lit under them.

Secondly, when tensioning a steel cable, the bark of trees is always deformed, which causes damage to nature. Cooking takes place only once or twice, then the tourists leave, and the trace from the cable remains for a long time, causing injury to the trees.

Third, trees growing close to each other have a double crown, and a fire is lit just under this zone, which is very fire hazardous: a strong or large fire causes a large flame and heat to rise upward, which can lead to the ignition of scorched leaves or needles and the death of tree branches.

Fourth, walking around such a fire with a taut rope is also unsafe, especially in the evening and at night. The thin cable is almost invisible in the evening, and hikers, especially children, can easily be injured by it. When working near a fire, the cable can get caught in branches or firewood, which can lead to the pot tipping over if dinner or lunch is being cooked over the fire.

Fifthly, when the cable is used at high temperatures, it changes its qualities. The steel threads burn out and anneal, which wear out over time and begin to stick out in different directions, which leads to hand injuries.

At sixth, it is necessary to have special devices in the form of brakes or bushings in order to prevent the pots from moving to one point on the cable.

Nowadays, metal stands or flyers are often used on weekend hikes, which ensures quick installation of fire equipment and serves to preserve forest plantings. Metal stands are made of steel tube with a diameter of 16-20 mm. When traveling, they are carried in a special case. If possible, you can take the crossbar with you or, as a last resort, find a strong ready-made stick.

After the camp is assembled and all things are put away, the fire equipment is wiped off soot and put into a cover.

Tagankas, which are made from steel angles or reinforcement, are taken only to large rallies or events, where they are installed only once and are removed after the completion of the entire event. Since they require metal and are heavy to carry, they are not taken on hikes. At the base parking lot with a large crowd of participants, they are indispensable and very convenient; you can put many buckets or pots and even frying pans on them.

You can also add a small sapper shovel to the fire equipment for digging out turf under the site of the future fire. The designated area of ​​the fire is cleared of turf by digging, the turf itself is carefully removed to the side, in a cool place, so that it does not dry out. If the parking is going to be long, then it is advisable to water the removed turf with water so that it does not dry out. It is advisable not to dig a large pit for a fire. The best excavation size is 50-60 cm. After burning all the accumulated debris, the fire is carefully filled with water. The previously removed turf is placed in its original place. The area of ​​the fire that is completely covered with turf must be spilled with water. Thanks to this procedure, a real tourist will not leave behind black bald spots of scorched earth. If there are well-equipped campsites for bivouacs, then it is advisable to locate the camp there and not in another place: it is undesirable to make fires in different places in the same campsite. There are especially many such sites located along river banks, the most common routes for water tourists and pedestrians. As a rule, they have ready-made parking lots, places for tents and fires. The only thing that remains for tourists is not to spoil the “inventory” and not leave behind mountains of garbage and scorched earth. If there is any firewood left, there is no need to burn it, leaving it for other groups.

Types of fires: 1-well; 2-hut; 3-star;
4-taiga -1; 5-taiga-2; 6-taiga-3;
7-large taiga made of logs

Meals on the hike

During a hike, due to the heavy physical activity, high-calorie and nutritious food is required. But the weight of the products increases this load. The issue of nutrition is very acute during a difficult multi-day hike, where the body receives a very heavy load during the entire hike. Food consumption is calculated strictly for the entire duration of the trip. The diet is determined by the type of tourism and the timing of the trip, the duration and complexity of the trip.

On one-day hikes, you can sometimes do without cooking food and go with sandwiches, snacks and hot tea from thermoses or boiled at a large rest stop. On bicycle trips, tea is usually boiled over a fire, since it is unsafe to carry thermoses with glass flasks on bicycles. At a common table at a halt or bivouac, when each participant takes out his food, the lunch menu is determined. Then you can decide whether to cook a full meal or make do with just tea. It depends on the goals of the trip, the composition of the group, and the time the group has. Preparing tea alone takes at least an hour; lunch, even a two-course meal, will take twice as long. Only more experienced tourists with extensive hiking experience can make a full lunch in a very short time with optimal food consumption and calorie content.

The weight of food on any weekend hikes (and longer simple hikes) should not exceed 1200 grams per person per day. The longer and more difficult the hike, the less weight of food per person per day you have to take. For highly complex sports trips, the weight of food can be reduced even to 800 grams per person per day. But it is necessary to take into account that such a diet, limited in weight, must be compensated for in terms of calorie content, so that later there are no serious consequences with fasting on the route itself during heavy physical activity of the participants.

On any hike, it is advisable to eat three times a day: for breakfast and dinner - approximately 35-40% of the daily supply, at lunch - about 20% of the daily requirement. At small stops you can get by with dried fruits, glucose, sweets, cookies, etc.

The diet for any hike should have as little weight as possible with a maximum of calories. At the same time, replacing lower-calorie carbohydrate foods (bread, cereals, vegetables, fruits) with higher-calorie proteins and fats to gain weight on weekend hikes is undesirable, since due to the decrease in volume there will be no feeling of satiety. Such measures have to be taken only on long, difficult hikes. The diet during the hike requires increased doses of vitamins, especially vitamin C.

Let us present the diet for recreational and training weekend hikes per person per day (Table 7).

Table 7. Diet for one day per person

Name	Grams	Calories
Crackers (biscuits)
Cereals (rolled oats, buckwheat, peas, vermicelli)
Soup and vegetable concentrates
Meat (stewed, canned, fried, pates, freeze-dried)
Butter, rendered lard
Powdered milk
Sugar, candy, glucose
Raisins, prunes, nuts, onions, garlic
Salt, spices, vitamin tea, coffee

The composition and weight of products for winter ski trips are especially important. When skiing at a speed of 6 km/h, and with a backpack of about 30 kg, approximately 3.5-4 km/h, you need 8.5 calories per 1 kg of weight per hour. With a weight of 70 kg, a tourist spends 4760 calories just on movement in 8 hours of walking. The total energy consumption per day is 5000-5400 calories. With a total calorie content of 5000 kcal, proteins should account for 160-180g, fats 140-150g, carbohydrates 700-850g. Taking this into account, we can recommend a compromise diet containing about 3000 calories with a food weight of about 8000 g. The missing 2000 calories are gained by the body from internal reserves, mainly fat, which is quite acceptable for a hike lasting up to two to three weeks.

On summer hikes, where energy consumption is less than in winter, the diet can be made even more economical, the diet can be less fatty. Here you can also find “pasture” (mushrooms, berries, fish).

We give an approximate diet for hiking in summer and winter per person per day (Table 8).

Table 8. Daily diet

Winter hike			Summer hike
Name	Gram		Name	Gram
Buckwheat, rice, dry. kart.			Buckwheat, rice
Pea puree, borscht, concentrated soup.			Subl. Meat
Subl. meat			Ghee
Lard, lard			Dry cream
Ghee
Powdered milk
			Onion, garlic, salt
			Tea, coffee, spices
Vitam. C, glucose
Coffee, cocoa, tea
Onion, garlic, salt
Total:

On weekend trips, some products can be replaced (freeze-dried, canned, concentrates with natural ones, crackers or biscuits with bread), which will lead to a slight increase in the weight of the backpack up to 1200 g of the daily ration. On short hikes this is acceptable, but when they want to evaluate the diet or change it, they must adhere to a similar list. Before any hike, you need to create a menu for all days. The diet and the menu itself do not always coincide with the desires of the participants themselves during the hike, so it is advisable to develop products that can be used to prepare a variety of dishes without disturbing the psychology of the participants during a difficult hike. You often have to change the entire menu according to the list that was compiled at home. In field conditions, almost everything can change, or partially, and the caretaker needs to be on guard and approach this issue competently, and not set strict limits for preparing dishes for the participants.

Table 9. Tourist’s personal equipment

Name of items	Quantity, pieces, pairs per trip
	We walk	Ski	Gorny	Velo
3-4 person tent
Backpack (soft or easel)
Backpack cover
Backpack insert
Sleeping bag
Sleeping bag liner
Thermal insulation mat
Mountain boots
Thermal insulation mat
Fur stockings, chuni
Nylon torches for feet
Insulated vest (down)
Woolen trousers,
Cotton training trousers
Cloak cape
Thin wool sweater
Woolen leggings
Cotton T-shirt
Cotton socks
Nylon socks
Wool socks
Lightweight hat with visor
Woolen hat, balaclava
Protective helmet
Bicycle gloves, motorized gloves
Gloves
Warm mittens
Protective mask
Windproof mask
Safety glasses in a case
Mosquito net
Towel
Handkerchiefs
Mug, spoon, bowl, knife,
Bags (cases) for dishes,
Toilet. accessories (com.)
Drinking flask
Individual bandage. plastic bag
First aid kit
Insect repellents
Sunscreen ointment
Rubber tube, means
Clock with second hand
Adrianov's compass or liquid.
Waterproof matches
Document in a waterproof case
Notebook, pencil
Skis (cross-country, touring,)
Ski bindings
Ski poles
Backpack for bicycle
Ice axe, alpenstock, icebail
"Crampon
Belt or harness
Safety loops
Descenders
Zhumar clamp

Table 10. Group camping equipment

Name of items	Type of hike
	on foot	ski	mountain	bicycle
4-person tent (with awning)
Tent pad)
Awning, 4x5 m
Boilers (set)
Autoclave
Ladle
Can opener
Oilcloth for dining
Metal thermos
Kitchen mitts
Washcloths (nylon and metal)
Containers for products (set)
Laundry soap
Waterproof matches
Ax medium, small in a case
Two-handed saw with cover
Campfire accessories
Primus or stove (gas)
Camping stove
Dry alcohol
Sleigh-drag
Pocket flashlight
Stearic candle
Fishing tackle (set)
Razor with a set of blades
First aid kit in a case
Repair kit
Spare parts
Camera
Camcorder
Maps, charts, diagrams
Transport, curv., compasses,
Thermometer
Altimeter
Binoculars or monocular
Rocket launcher with rockets (com.)
Ski ointment (set)
Spare ski
Snow brush
Felt boots for duty officers
Signal whistle
Spare mittens
Spare safety glasses
Musical instrument,
Main rope (30-80 m)
Auxiliary rope, (40-80 m)
Rock hooks (set)
Ice hooks (set)
Bolt hooks
Mountaineering carabiner
Hammer of rocks, ice. or universal
Consumable rope (10-15 m)
Carbines (set)

If the weather is bad, many people go out into nature for a few days. And in this case, you can’t do without setting up a camp. This must be approached responsibly, since an incorrectly positioned tent or fireplace can ruin even the most carefully planned vacation.

Photo by Maxim VECHER

We put up a tent

The tent must be set up on level ground. If there is a slight slope, it must be placed in such a way that the legs of the person sleeping in it are lower than the head. Otherwise, a fun night is guaranteed: you will slide onto your neighbor or wake up with a severe headache.

Check the quality of the soil. It is not so easy to insert guy ropes into the dense interweaving of tree roots. In loose sand, on the contrary, the pegs do not hold well, and a sharp gust of wind can blow down the tent.

The site should be located on a hill so that during rain the tent does not flood with water. That is why you should not camp on low islands, no matter how picturesque the place looks. In this case, each tent should be dug in a shallow ditch. The area should be well ventilated and dry.

Carefully inspect the chosen location. There should be no anthills or ant trails. Remove twigs and cones so as not to feel like the “Princess and the Pea”.

The optimal distance between tents is 2-3 meters, the main thing is that there is enough space for stretching. It is best to place tents in a row or in the letter L - the camp will be a single whole, and the tents will protect each other from the wind.

You cannot place tents closer than 100 m from power lines, or closer than 50 m from roads.

If the picnic continues for several days, it is worth setting aside a separate tent for storing food.

Where to make a fire

The fire pit should be located as far as possible from the tents. Modern awnings, made of synthetic materials, are light and compact, but are easily burned by sparks. Determine the direction of the wind ahead of time so that the smoke from the fire goes away from your home.

Bonfire is the main cause of fires in forests, so there are a number of restrictions here. In particular, you should not light a fire under the crowns of trees, in places with dry grass, on windbreaks and old burnt forests, in young coniferous forests, or on peat bogs. The fireplace should be ringed with a mineralized strip at least 0.5 m wide, or even better, fence it with stones.

You cannot leave a fire unattended. After folding the bivouac, the coals must be carefully extinguished - poured with water or covered with sand.

If possible, an awning should be stretched over the entire fire area at an angle so that it protects the fire not only from moisture, but also from the wind.

Beauty and purity

Having a stream or river nearby can greatly simplify the process of cooking and washing dishes. However, it is impossible to locate the “washing” zone in close proximity to a water source. After all, you will probably use household chemicals for the best effect. Any detergents, including ordinary laundry soap, can cause great harm to the stream.

Often lovers of outdoor recreation prepare a waste pit in advance. Don't do this! The plastic from which disposable tableware, bottles and other utensils of this kind are made takes decades to decompose. It’s better to hang a garbage bag on a tree and put all waste in it. When leaving, do not forget to take this bag with you to throw it in the nearest container.

Paper waste can be burned in a fire. Metal cans can be buried at the bivouac site, but first they must be thoroughly burned in a fire. Burnt metal quickly decomposes.

But glass, although it does not cause any particular harm to nature, should under no circumstances be left in the parking lot. First of all, it's dangerous - someone could get seriously cut. Secondly, glass practically does not decompose, remaining in the ground for thousands of years.

Discreet place

Any more or less long stay requires the installation of a toilet. The site for it should be chosen at a distance from the bivouac among dense vegetation. The soil on the sanitary site must be loose so that it is possible to dig a hole at least 30 cm deep. In addition, this area should be located away from a river or stream, preferably in a lowland.

Photo by Anatoly DRIBAS

Usually, a film or awning is stretched over the place where the toilet is installed to protect it from rain. You can build improvised walls from branches or from the same film. By the way, experienced tourists hang a bright flag on a tree branch a few meters from the toilet. If it is down, it means the space is free.

Before leaving, be sure to bury the hole and mark it with stones so that other tourists know not to dig here.

STAY IN TOUCH

Do not set up camp near isolated trees. During a thunderstorm, there is a high probability of “catching” lightning. Single trees are also the most vulnerable to the wind: at any moment the trunk can fall into a resting place. Avoid pitching your tent under large trees with long branches. Even a small branch falling from an impressive height can easily break a tent or injure campers.

Find a place well protected from wind and direct sunlight. The site can be arranged under a hill, in a clearing among a dense forest. However, do not camp in low areas. Firstly, this is where the dank fog will accumulate in the morning hours. Secondly, if there is heavy rain, all the water will flow into the lowland. In addition, in ravines hidden from the sun's rays there is the coldest air.

If possible, look for a place near a stream or on the bank of a river - a source of water, which you will probably need for washing dishes and other needs. However, you should not pitch tents at the very edge of the water.

You need to start setting up camp a few hours before dusk, so that you have time to cope with all your affairs and completely arrange the camp without haste and fuss.

NATURE FORECAST

We are used to trusting weather forecasters, but the weather is a capricious lady. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to learn to recognize some natural “bells” signaling imminent changes.

If the flowers of acacia, honeysuckle, currant, and lilac begin to smell strongly, wait for rain in 15-20 minutes.

The “crying” of the calliper, arrowhead, and calabash means that in 2-3 hours inclement weather will set in.

The flowers of daisy, mallow, buttercup, calendula, field bindweed, and dandelion begin to curl 2-5 hours before the rain.

White slumber flowers begin to smell fragrant 9-12 hours before rain.

The grasshoppers and crickets stopped chirping, and the butterflies hid in shelters - there will be a thunderstorm in 1-3 hours.

If jackdaws and crows begin to scream, fly in flocks, and dive down with stones, rain will begin to pour in 1-3 hours.

The most common mistake made by novice tourists is placing polyethylene under the tent, supposedly in order not to get the bottom dirty or wet. What you fear will happen even faster. If the edge of the polyethylene protrudes even slightly from under the tent, water from the awning will inevitably flow onto it during slanting rain. This is a classic situation: a unfortunate tourist wakes up in a puddle, artificially created by him. It's not scary to pitch a tent on wet grass. Let the bottom get wet, but the mat will still remain dry. If you're really afraid of wet grass, lay down plastic inside the tent. The main thing is not to put up a tent in a depression in the terrain!

In the spring, when the snow has already melted, but the ground has not yet completely thawed, you can first make a fire at the site of the tent. Within an hour the ground will warm up, the fire can be extinguished, trampled and covered with fresh spruce paws. And put a tent on top. It will be much warmer to sleep at night. The main thing is not to leave large coals so that they don’t burn the bottom of the tent!

Fire equipment:
- taganok in a case (steel cable with hooks);
- saw (preferably two-handed) in a case;
- axes (large and small) in cases;
- work gloves - 1 pair;
- matches in waterproof packaging;
- an awning (dimensions 3x5 m) in a cover, equipped with guys, collapsible racks and pegs;
- kindling (pieces of plexiglass, dry alcohol tablets, candle).

Kitchen equipment:
- flat buckets, inserted into one another, with lids, in covers - 3-4 pcs. per group. The capacity of the dishes is selected at the rate of 1 liter per person;
- ladles - 2 pcs. (for the first course and tea);
- knives: kitchen – 2-3 pcs;
- laundry soap;
- a washcloth for washing dishes (not metal);
- kitchen oilcloth;
- flasks for vegetable and ghee;
- bags for packaging products (cloth and polyethylene; for cereals and sugar it is convenient to use plastic 2-liter bottles).

Rotten trunks and stumps are the same kindling material that flares up from the first match and you can quickly cook food on it without wasting effort on sawing and chopping. In rainy weather, when drops flow along the birch bark, and dry spruce branches are actually completely damp, look in the lowlands, near the water, for aspen or alder trunks. The dust of aspen and alder smolders even when wet.

What to do if there is no ax and saw? No problem - some fairly thick trunks can be felled without tools. Dry birch is most often damp from the inside; it burns well on the outside, but then begins to smoke and goes out. It is better to use it mixed with other firewood. Oak is good, it gives even heat and excellent coals, but its wood is difficult to break into pieces and is heavy. However, having fallen over an oak tree, you can make a fire without dragging it anywhere, right on the spot. The most convenient tree species for extracting fuel without a saw or ax are aspen or alder. Due to the lack of firewood extracted from them, they practically do not produce coal.
If you notice a suitable dryer, try shaking the barrel with your hand. If it gives way, keep rocking it. Get into resonance, and then with each push the trunk will bend more and more. Take care of your head; dead trees often cause the upper parts of the trunk to fall off. But when a tree collapses, it usually falls into several pieces.
If the trunk falls apart into pieces that are too long, don’t worry. And it is not necessary to make an exemplary node. Place the two longest trunks so that their butts tightly touch each other for at least a meter and a half. Place firewood on this part of the dryer. You will then move the ends of the long sushi to the center. A couple more long trunks can be placed across, on top of the fire, and the flame itself will “saw through” them. Long sushi can be broken by pressing them between two trees growing nearby.

If there is no fuel!!
Look around, maybe there is still one? In the tundra, a tiny twig of a dwarf birch is also fuel. If you go for a walk in the tundra with an empty backpack, you can fill it to the top with such firewood. Be sure to add raw willow and birch tree trunks to the fire mixed with dry twigs, otherwise the dry fuel will burn out instantly. Such a fire must be lit without being shielded from the wind. He will fan the flames. And in the desert dung will help you out.
Once, while crossing the pass on the Putorana plateau, our friends were saved by old turbo boots, on which lunch for four people was cooked. Old sneakers burn very well. The new ones probably burn well too, but we haven’t tried it. And on the treeless mountain tops of the Altai, Sayan, and Far East hills, destroyed wooden triangulation towers are often found.

The peoples of the Far North and Siberia who lead a traditional way of life have a belief that firewood and branches should be stacked in one direction, in accordance with the course of the fire and the location of the remaining firewood and branches. the fire devours the tree, and therefore will not be able to accept food placed across the mouth. There is a fair amount of truth in this belief: the fire spreads better when the material for the fire lies in a strictly defined orientation.

Candidate of Medical Sciences Matvey Lifshits states: “Under no circumstances cook an ax whose handle is covered with varnish or paint. If you put a cleaned wooden handle in water, you will get an ash or birch decoction (depending on the material of the handle) and a certain amount of carbohydrates: they contain the vegetable fiber contained in the tree will be converted. This is not harmful to the body, although you are unlikely to like the taste of boiled ash. If you place an ax blade (not coated with Teflon) in a pan while cooking porridge, the water will acquire an unpleasant metallic taste, which, however, , also will not cause harm to the body, because some patients are specifically prescribed iron-containing drugs. But in this form, the metal is unlikely to be absorbed, but it can give a colorful black color to your stool.”

Whose axes are better?
Fiskars is a very confident company that offers a 10-year guarantee on the handles of its axes, claiming that they are unbreakable. These handles are hollow inside, and therefore lightweight, made of durable, glass fiber-reinforced polyamide, and are not afraid of dampness and cold weather. The blades are Teflon coated (do not rust) and enter the wood softly and easily.

When collecting water from a swampy pond, do not simply scoop it up. It is much better to dig a hole next to the pond and wait a few minutes until it fills with cleaner, ground-filtered water. During the period of high water and snow melting, water from forest lakes and pits does not require purification.

Making a fire without matches.
To do this, you will need what is available in any home - potassium permanganate and glycerin. Pour about 1 gram of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) ground into a fine powder.
Then, from a pipette or glass tube, carefully drop 2-3 drops of glycerin onto it and quickly remove your hand. It will only take 2-3 seconds and you will see the fire break out. Don't get carried away by the fire being too big. In the summer, tear off the grass around the fireplace, or better yet, dig around the fireplace.

If it’s pouring rain while you’re parked, if everything around you is so wet that it couldn’t be any wetter, and you’ve spent several boxes of matches that didn’t have time to dampen the fire, you especially want hot food and tea.
In this case, you need to look for dried krasnotal (shelyugi); those sticks that crack when broken are used for kindling, those that do not crack are used for firewood. If you find a krasnotal, there will be a fire, hot food, warmth, tea and light.
Reference.
Red willow, red willow, shelyuga (Salix acutifolia), shrub or tree (height up to 7 m) from the willow genus; It is distinguished by bare brown-red shoots with a bluish coating. The leaves are linear-lanceolate, long-pointed, dark green above, bluish-green below. It grows in sandy areas of Northern Kazakhstan and the European part of Russia. In Siberia and the Far East, a closely related species, the dew willow (S. rorida), grows along the banks of rivers.

Once you have caught the fish, cut out the gills and large blood vessels near the spine. Scrape off the scales. To gut a fish, cut open the belly and remove the entrails. If you don't skewer the fish, cut off its head. Some fish, such as catfish, do not have scales and must be skinned. Small fish (less than 10 cm) should not be gutted; the scales must be scraped off or the skin removed.

A way to create a fire without matches is to quickly pull a piece of steel wire over a block of wood. The wire heats up, and it can ignite gunpowder, photographic film, and other flammable materials.

To preserve caught fish, they gut it, but do not wash it in water or salt it, but only wipe it dry with grass or a rag. Then, having inserted spacers into the abdomen, the fish is spread out and hung in the wind for 15-20 minutes. Slightly dried carcasses are topped with nettles or fresh (but always dry) sedge.
Fish can also be dried by placing it on hot stones. When the fish is dry, sprinkle salt water on it to season it; Do not attempt to store fish products unless they are properly dried and salted.

If on a hike you decide to treat yourself to grilled kebab or something equally delicious, then you simply need good coals. So, the coals in the fire are already ready, but the fire does not subside. Take rock salt and sprinkle it generously over the coals. The heat will become even and strong, and the fire will go down.

For experienced tourists, their equipment, including dishes, lasts a long time. When used on pots, a thick layer of soot forms. It is quite difficult to clean it mechanically. We suggest doing this by annealing.
Annealing is carried out using cast iron or aluminum utensils on a high flame of a gas burner or a blowtorch. Initially, when heated, the coating chars, smokes, and the dishes turn blacker even more. Then, heated to a faint red glow, the outer walls are cleaned: a thick layer of soot peels off and falls off, and a thin layer turns into ash and crumbles, leaving a completely clean surface. All that remains is to let the pot or pan cool naturally, in the air. You can then lightly polish the pot with tooth powder and then rinse with a weak solution of soda.
Annealing is best done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area. Do not allow the cookware to overheat, otherwise it may melt, this is especially dangerous for the handles. Please note that aluminum and its alloys are fragile when hot, so do not touch the handles until the cookware has cooled down, otherwise they may fall off. Remove the plastic handles completely or, if this is not possible, wrap them with a wet cloth and moisten it regularly during annealing.

It is most convenient to stir food with a wooden spatula. Prepare it in advance: length – 8 cm, width – 4 cm, thickness – 1 cm. The handle is long, 55 cm. Having made a hole at the end of the handle, attach a hook made of steel wire in it: the spatula can be hung on any branch. This spatula washes and dries well. During the transition, it can be laid together with a tripod for the pot.

Experienced tourists travel light, so a washing basin is not on the list of important things. Still, things get dirty. We offer an original method of washing if there is no body of water nearby. Dig a hole and place the opened bag in it. Fill the bag with water - the bowl of water is ready. Wash for your health!

It is useful to burn tin cans and pieces of aluminum foil over a fire before burying them: after the varnish that usually covers these products and materials has completely burned, they will deteriorate faster.
The surface of metals becomes porous, and corrosion under the influence of oxygen in the air and soil moisture will occur with a vengeance. Two or three years - and almost nothing will remain of the can buried in the ground.

It is also better to burn plastic bags and polystyrene bottles, since under the influence of only natural conditions these polymers will completely decompose in about a hundred years.
And waste made from polyvinyl chloride, which is quite easy to distinguish from polyethylene (polyvinyl chloride is more plastic and less durable than polyethylene, becomes brittle in the cold), it is better not to burn (when it burns, extremely toxic chlordioxins are formed), but to bury it in a pit with non-combustible waste.

They say that Eskimos do not wash dishes at all, but let dogs lick them. If you have a four-legged friend, you can try this method, but then we still recommend washing your camp bowls with water!

Additional starch and naphthalene were added to the coating of storm match straws. Such matches are not afraid of wind even with a force of 10-12 points, which is especially important for sailors and fishermen. It is useful to have storm matches for both tourists on a serious hike and climbers.