Aix en Provence. Aix-en-Provence - the cultural capital of Provence Best time to visit
Aix-en-Provence, often referred to simply as Aix by locals, is one of the most attractive destinations in the south of France.
More saturated than Marseille, cheaper than Paris and with 300 on sunny days year - it is an ideal place for romantic holidays and summer holidays. The city is just a few minutes' drive from the beaches of the Cote d'Azur and ski slopes, in the heart of Provence, where travelers are surrounded by fragrant lavender and sunflower fields and ancient olive groves. It is also the birthplace of the artist Cezanne; Aix-en-Provence has enough cultural and historical attractions to satisfy the most insatiable enthusiasts.
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Discover the winding medieval streets historical center, explore the Roman ruins in nearby Arles, or simply watch life happen while sipping coffee in a cozy café. Aix-en-Provence is a great holiday destination any time of year, although most people prefer to visit during the summer peak season from May to September, when the famous lavender fields are in bloom and the sun gives the pale stone buildings a soft golden glow.
However, it is worth thinking about spring break in Aix, when the city blooms with hundreds of colors, or about an autumn trip, when the weather is not so hot. Aix is also a popular destination winter holidays thanks to proximity to locals ski resorts and seasonal events such as the Christmas market.
How to get there
The nearest airport is in Marseille, 20 km from Aix-en-Provence. A bus leaves from the airport every half hour to the city; the journey takes about 30 minutes and costs 7 euros. A taxi can be found outside the terminal building and costs around 70 euros. Fast trains TGVs are ideal for those who prefer to enjoy scenic views.
A one-way trip from Paris takes less than three hours and a ticket costs 25 euros. Trains stop at Aix-en-Provence station, which is located near the city. Buses run regularly from the railway station. There are buses from most major French cities to Marseille. A bus runs to Aix-en-Provence from Marseille Saint-Charles station; the journey takes 30 minutes and costs 8 euros.
Attractions
Experience effortless tranquility Southern France, visiting the Mazarin quarter. Just south of crowded Mirabeau is a grid of streets lined with old "hôtels particuliers" that were originally built to house the wealthy merchants and nobles of Provence. The historic town is home to boutique hotels and shops selling local handicrafts, as well as several charming cafes. This is a dynamic area of the city with beautiful architecture and aesthetic appeal.
The long, tree-lined Avenue Mirabeau marks the central point of shopping and entertainment in Aix-en-Provence, with a variety of restaurants, bars and tourist shops catering to an enthusiastic consumer. Various markets and events are held here on different days, as locals love to meet old friends and shop here. In the middle of Cours Mirabeau is the ancient Fontaine du Roy René, in memory of René of Anjou, who died in the 15th century - a man holding a scepter in one hand and a bushel of local grapes in the other. While in Paris, you should definitely visit Notre Dame Cathedral. But when in Aix-en-Provence, don't miss the Cathedral of Saint Savior. This Roman Catholic cathedral is a popular tourist attraction and a national monument in France. The building incorporates Romanesque, Gothic and Neo-Gothic elements, as it was subject to repeated attempts at reconstruction from the 12th to the 19th centuries. During these days, visitors can enjoy precious works of religious art about the life of Christ from Nicolas Froment, Louis Finson and Jean Daret. Be sure to check the cathedral's program before visiting, as you may be lucky enough to enjoy an evening organ concert or Christmas choir rehearsal. 
The Musée Granet in the center of Aix-en-Provence has many exhibits of painting, sculpture and archaeology. When the museum was built, it belonged to the Church of Saint-Jean de Maltais, located next door. It was only in the last few decades that the building was restored and opened to the public as an art gallery. Today you can see here works by such famous artists as Renoir, Ingres, Cezanne and even Van Gogh.
Indulge in the provincial cuisine and countryside of Aix-en-Provence, then enjoy the excellent cultural offerings on the outskirts of the city. The Vasarely Foundation realizes the artistic concepts of Victor Vasarely, whose colossal paintings - modern masterpieces - use abstract forms and bold colors, and thus attract the attention of the world. Vasarely hoped to alleviate the world's problems with squares and triangles, and indeed many of his optical illusion paintings leave the viewer spellbound for a long time.
Currency
Euro The winding streets of the Old Town are filled with boutiques for clothing, books, arts and crafts and jewelry. If you're looking for global brands, visit Les Allées Provençales or the large Carrefour shopping center, which sells everything from fashion accessories to electronics.
Food
Aix-en-Provence has an incredible number of restaurants compared to its small size. Most of the establishments are collected in a small area in the Old Town, between Place Carder and the Rotunda (Cours Mirabeau). Restaurants and bars on Cours Mirabeau tend to be more expensive, although while some may be considered tourist traps, others are some of the best places to eat in the city. L'Authentique is a great place for burgers in the area. You can buy the most delicious and high-quality French bread at Le farinomanFou or Emile Bec.
You can also try calissons, a regional specialty consisting of a smooth, pale yellow, smooth paste of candied fruits, most commonly melon and oranges, and ground almonds with a thin layer of royal icing. Chez Charlotte is a very good restaurant, popular with locals. It offers simple and inexpensive French cuisine in a friendly atmosphere. If you really want to eat like a local and save a few euros, it's best to choose small restaurants that have doner kebabs on their menu. For a few euros you get a "sandwich" wrapped in a gallet, or round bread, which includes lettuce, tomatoes, onions, meat, fries and be sure to ask for sauce blanche. It's very tasty and cheap.
Many restaurants make this dish differently. La Maison des Fondues offers wide choose delicious fondue. Le Clos de la Violette is located in the northern part of the city, near the excellent Hotel Villa Gallici. This restaurant has a Michelin star. The menu changes seasonally.
Where to stay
Popular Areas in Aix-en-Provence The Old Town is the center of Aix-en-Provence with some of the city's most impressive buildings. The most popular local attractions are the 17th-century town hall and St. Saviour's Cathedral, where you can see Nicolas Froment's Burning Bush Triptych.
The Villeneuve district is a new area of the city east of the Palace of Justice, an upscale residential area of stylish townhouses. Cours Mirabeau is one of the busiest and most popular areas of the city. Its centerpiece is an 18th-century tree-lined avenue where you can see many of the city's famous fountains and stately mansions.
Aix-en-Provence is a university town, so you will find many budget hotels as well as luxury and upscale hotels. Nice hotels in the mid-price category - Hotel ibis Aix-en-Provence, Hôtel Aquabella and Hôtel Best Western Le Galice. Luxury hotels such as La Villa Gallici or Hôtel Aix-en-Provence - Hôtel de Gantès are ideal for trips into the city for special occasions.
Precautionary measures
Aix is a safe city to visit, but as with all French cities, tourists to Aix should be aware of the risk of becoming a victim of pickpockets and thieves. Do not leave valuables in plain sight in parked cars. Use extra caution at night and use a taxi if you are going to remote areas late at night. Avoid visiting public parks after dark.
Cours mirabeau - Boulevard Mirabeau
Mausoleum of Jean Sec - mausolée Joseph seс (1792)
Pavilion de Vendôme
Rotunda Fountain
fontaine d'eau Chaude - Fountain of Warm Water
Grand theater de Provence - « Grand Theatre Provence"
Pavillon noir - "Black Pavilion"
Around the Old Town
Atelier de Cézanne – Paul Cézanne Studio
Cezanne's studio, which has now been turned into, where everyone can get a closer look at the creative atmosphere of the great artist.
If you are interested in the life and work of the great impressionist, you can follow the walk, which will take you past buildings and sites associated with the life of Paul Cézanne. The key points are three sites located outside the center of Aix: , the family mansion of Jas de Bouffan and the Bibemus quarries.
Already the building is already a work of art. It was created in 1976 and consists of 16 impressive hexagonal parts. Inside this unique building are collected 42 monumental works by Vasarely, known as the father of "sinetism", as well as a room dedicated to optical art. Victor Vasarely's project had both an architectural and a social purpose: to show that art could be incorporated into architecture to improve the quality of everyday life.
Fondation Vasarely, Aix-en-Provence
Cité du livre - Cultural Center
Mazarin quarter - Mazarin quarter
Sights of the Mazarin quarter in Aix-en-Provence:
Hôtel de Caumont (1715-1742)
Place des 4 dauphins - Square of the 4 dolphins
The square is named after a fountain decorated with figures of four dolphins. The fountain was built in 1667. The square is overlooked by many beautiful mansions, including Boisgelin, which features a beautiful interior carriage house and a façade with a monumental frieze.
Eglise st-Jean de malte - Church of St. John of Malta
Church of St. Jean of Malta located on the corner rue d'Italie and rue Cardinale. This ancient Gothic church, built in the 13th century, was the first gothic church V . In the 12th century, the site was home to a hospice and chapel for the Brotherhood of Hospitallers (also known as the Knights of Malta or the Order of St. John). This church was incorporated into a monastery of the same order, located in an olive grove outside the city walls. Since the 13th century, the church has served as the tomb of the counts of Provence. In the 17th century, with the expansion of the fortress walls to the south, the church entered the territory of the city of Aix. Then the monastery sold these lands, which created the Mazarin quarter. In the period after the French Revolution, most of The interior decoration, treasures and statues of the church were removed or looted, and the church itself was converted into a military warehouse. It was eventually restored in the 19th century, becoming a parish church. Currently it belongs to the Ministry of the Fraternity of Apostolic Friars.
Museum Granet - le musée Granet
Located in the building of the Order of the Knights of Malta, the museum received its name from the local artist François Marius Granet, whose works are also presented here.
The permanent exhibition includes one of the richest collections in Provence, mainly paintings by French artists from the 16th to 20th centuries, as well as various art schools: Dutch, Flemish and Italian. Since 1984, the museum’s collection has included 8 works by the famous impressionist Cezanne.
The archaeological hall contains a collection of finds from the territory of Aix and is dedicated to the Celto-Ligurian civilization.
Eglise de la madeleine
The church is located on the Place des Prêcheurs, which took its name from the Dominican monastery destroyed by fire in 1363, on the territory of which the Church of Saint-Madeleine was built. Construction took place under the direction of architect Laurent Vallon from 1691 to 1703. The Aachen architect Henri Revoil remodeled the façade of the church in 1855-60. The building has long been considered the most beautiful temple in the Bouches-du-Rhône region. The church was ranked among historical monuments in 1988.
Tapestry Museum - Musee des Tapisseries
On display are 19 tapestries made at Beauvais between the 17th and 18th centuries, as well as 9 panels from the life of Don Quixote.
The Tapestry Museum is a huge building, a former archbishop's palace, converted into a museum in 1909. Thanks to the archbishop, a rich collection of ancient tapestries has been preserved in the palace.
When my boyfriend and I were discussing the future summer vacation, then we didn’t even think about ending up in Aix. We dreamed of the south of France, but we also wanted to get to: walk around the Old Town, taste the well-known bouillabaisse (Marseille fish soup), understand why everyone is crazy about Provençal rose wine. There was no mention of the town of Aix-en-Provence. Moreover, we did not know about the existence of this city at all.
After spending several days in Marseille, we made many acquaintances with local residents. Each of them advised us to visit magical Aix, promising that this town would undoubtedly leave a mark on our hearts.
What first comes to mind when you mention, historical region in southeast France? Personally, I imagine lavender fields, aromatic herbs and spices, majestic mountains, impressionism, and, undoubtedly, magnificent rose.
People from all over the world have always been eager to visit: artists and poets were looking for inspiration and new experiences, gourmets were eager to taste Provencal cuisine, tourists and ardent travelers wanted to take some unforgettable shots in the lavender fields and put a “tick” on the list of countries they had visited. .
The first time we went on vacation was in August, so we could no longer dream of lavender fields. Essentially, lavender blooms from mid-June to early August, but in reality the chances of seeing lavender in the most popular places in late July or early August are virtually non-existent. Every year the climate becomes hotter, and the lavender season becomes shorter.
So, one morning, when there was no longer any sense (and time) to delay, we got ready and went to the central station of Marseille Saint-Charles to take a bus from there and go to Aix-en-Provence. By that time, we already had some idea of the city and dreamed of being on the ancient stone-paved streets, seeing the palaces of the Provençal nobility of the 17th-18th centuries in the Baroque style, walking near the city hall with a Gothic clock tower and, of course, dipping our hands in one of the many fountains that were once able to save the city from the plague! 
How to get there?
Aix-en-Provence can be reached by plane, train, bus and car. You won’t be able to get there by water, because the nearest sea is in Marseille (27 km from Aix).
By plane
The nearest international airport is located in Marseille. From there, the bus station (Aix Bus Station), which is just a 5-minute walk from the city center, can be reached by so-called express buses. This trip will take about 30 minutes and will cost 7-9 EUR per person, depending on the age of the passenger (discounts are available for students and young people under the age of 26). Buses run every 15-30 minutes: if you miss one, don't worry - the next one will arrive soon! You can buy a ticket at the ticket office, which is located a couple of steps from the stop, or from the bus driver.
The city can also be reached from the airports of Nimes, Toulon, and Nice.
If I'm not mistaken, there are no regular flights from Moscow to Marseille, but in the summer there are definitely charter flights from Russian cities. You can also find many connecting flights through, or, well, or give preference railway transport.
About purchasing tickets
As seasoned travelers, we take bookings seriously. We never delay and prefer early booking. However, many travelers who like to fly with low-cost airlines (Ryanair, Wizzair) advise buying tickets 2-3 months before the trip. In addition to low-cost airlines, you can look for good options on popular sites, for example. The main thing is to accurately determine the dates, do not delay the purchase, and then you can save a lot.
Marseille Provence Airport
international Airport Marseille-Provence is 27 km from Marseille and 29 km from Aix-en-Provence. On this moment There are two terminals at the airport. As we understand, one serves large airlines, the second specializes more in low-cost airlines.
Nearby is railroad station Vitrolles Marseille, but we were never lucky enough to use it. As our French friend, a resident of the town of Mereille (located near Aix-en-Provence), said, townspeople prefer to travel by bus to neighboring cities (both cheaper and, oddly enough, faster, because trains and electric trains make a lot of stops along the way ).
Thus, traveling from Marseille to Aix-en-Provence by train will take about 45 minutes, and by bus – only 28 minutes. Both the bus and the train arrive in the city center, both stations are located next to each other. 
A trip by bus will cost only 6 EUR, and by train 8 EUR for passengers over 26 years old, 6 EUR for students and young people under 26 years old. Tickets can also be purchased at the station ticket office or in special terminals that accept cards and cash.
The airport has enough shops, a duty-free zone, several cafes, restaurants and bars. There is a tourist office, a bank, a wireless Internet zone, a first-aid post... However, I strongly advise against staying at the airport overnight - there will be nothing to do there, everything closes until 12 at night. Unfortunately, we had to spend such a night once, and it was an extremely negative experience.
By train
If long distances don't bother you, Aix can also be reached from Paris by train. Co high-speed trains With the TGV, everything has become much simpler - the trip will not take more than 3 hours, but it is easier to get to Marseille, and from there to the central station of Aix-en-Provence.
Paris-Marseille trains run frequently, about 5 times a day. Departure from Paris Gare Lyon train station. Websites write that you can find tickets starting from 25 EUR, but you really have to be lucky. It’s more realistic to find a ticket for about 40 EUR one way.
Be careful: regional trains arrive in the center of Aix-en-Provence, but the station serving international routes, is located just 15 km from the city center! From there, the city center can be reached in 15-20 minutes by shuttle buses, which also run frequently - every 20-30 minutes - and arrive at the Aix Bus Station (5 minutes walk from the city center).
Clue:
Aix-en-Provence - the time is now
Hour difference:
Moscow 2
Kazan 2
Samara 3
Ekaterinburg 4
Novosibirsk 6
Vladivostok 9
When is the season? When is the best time to go
The beauty of Provence is that you can go whenever your heart desires: every season is attractive in its own way. However, most tourists travel to Provence solely to see the lavender fields with their own eyes. What is there to hide, the sight is truly indescribable! At the tourist office you can ask for a special map of the “Lavender Roads” and choose a route to your liking. However, it is worth noting that the undisputed leader in the number of lavender plantations is the Valensole Valley, which, in fact, itself consists of one huge lavender field. But, unfortunately, it is here that lavender can be seen from mid-June and only until mid-July (it approximately blooms until July 15, but it can be harvested even earlier).
Yes, lavender is undoubtedly worth it, but this particular season is “hot” and, accordingly, the most expensive and crowded. Both tickets and housing prices are increasing significantly. In addition, this period is the hottest; daytime temperatures can reach +37 degrees Celsius.
Personally, I prefer to travel in August and September. Yes, you won’t see any lavender, but you will be able to enjoy a milder climate and relatively less crowds. Besides, fig season begins in September, so why not travel? In any case, before your trip you should definitely check the weather forecast so as not to bring extra warm clothes.
Aix-en-Provence in summer
Summer in Aix-en-Provence is hot, and it gets hotter every year. average temperature during the day +34 degrees Celsius, in the evening +18.
Aix-en-Provence in autumn
In autumn there is a real Indian summer, which can last until mid-November (daytime temperatures will vary from +15 to +17 degrees Celsius). Many people prefer to come here at this time of year, when there are no tourists and you can enjoy the solitude, feeling like a local resident.
However, in every barrel of honey there is a fly in the ointment. It is in the fall that the period of the mistral begins - a strong and very cold wind. It can last until spring. On days like these, you don’t want to leave the house – it’s scary. Mistral can be so strong that it can uproot trees.
Aix-en-Provence in spring
Many also prefer late spring to travel to Provence. There are not many tourists yet, but the sun is warming with might and main! So if your vacation falls in the spring, you can safely go. The average temperature in March is +15 degrees, and in April and May +20.
Aix-en-Provence in winter
January is the coldest month to visit Aix-en-Provence. However, you will not be overtaken by sub-zero temperatures, which cannot be said about rain. In winter in Provence the most a large number of precipitation.
Clue:
Aix-en-Provence - weather by month
Districts. Where is the best place to live?
Aix-en-Provence is a commune city. When choosing accommodation, it is better to stay in the city center in the so-called Center Ville and its surroundings. If you look at the city on a map, it may not seem so small, but this is only an appearance.
Around the center there are several areas that are essentially “satellite villages” - some of them are actually villages in their own right. You can mention Banon, Maruege, Les Milles. However, it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to rent an apartment there – they simply aren’t there. If you are traveling by car with a large group, you can find many villas or cottages that are not located in the center of Aix, but on the outskirts or even in neighboring villages. But to tell the truth, getting to a supermarket or cafe without a car will be extremely difficult. 
In the center it is difficult to make a mistake and rent an apartment in a disadvantaged location. Unlike neighboring Marseille, Aix-en-Provence is a safe city where you can walk around even at night. We rented apartments both in the very center and at a distance from it.
Since the philological and humanities faculties of the largest university in Provence, Aix-Marseille I, are located in the city, there are plenty of students here. Where do students like to spend their free time from studying? That's right, in bars and clubs, of which there is a real abundance in Aix. Be prepared for it to be quite noisy at night, especially if you decide to rent a hotel or apartment in the Old Town. The largest number of bars and restaurants are concentrated in Place Richelme and La place des Cardeurs. But in principle, the entire Old Town will not be quiet in the evenings. If you want peace and quiet, choose any other area of the city.
Personally, we preferred living on the outskirts of the Old Town. And the center is just a stone's throw away, and at night the noise and hubbub from the bars won't wake you up. 
The most famous street of Aix-en-Provence - Boulevard Mirabeau (Cours Mirabeau) - divides the city into two parts, and that, in fact, is all the districts. However, it is worth noting that these parts of the city are completely different from each other. On one side there are the streets of the Old Town with a huge number of cafes, restaurants, boutiques, and souvenir shops. It is here that farmers' markets open in the mornings, which in the evenings turn into favorite hangouts among students. On the other side is the pompous Mazarin district. The streets here are wide but not crowded. However, if you go a little deeper, you will notice several majestic mansions local nobility hidden behind lush garden vegetation.
There is no need to get hung up on any particular place - it’s all the same to Mirabeau Boulevard and best restaurants close at hand, a walk in any direction will not take more than 20 minutes. However, when looking for suitable accommodation, do not forget to pay attention to where the windows face and whether there is a noisy bar nearby.
Despite the fact that Aix-en-Provence is considered a bourgeois town, life in which is in order more valuable than life in neighboring Marseille, renting an apartment or apartment is easier here. Probably the whole point is that despite all the charm of Aix, this city is not so popular among tourists.
We always use this service and I can safely say that you can find a lot of great options for every taste and budget. As for hotels, they are expensive here (on average, a night costs 70-100 EUR), most of them are located in the Old Town.
What are the prices for holidays?
The church is also open from 8 am, and on Sunday you can attend mass. Morning mass begins at 10:30 am, evening mass at 18:00. Entry is also free.
Church of St. Mary Magdalene (Église de la Madeleine)
Address - Place des Prêcheurs, Aix-en-Provence.
It was in this Italian Baroque church that Paul Cézanne was baptized. But this is not the only reason why it’s worth visiting. All art lovers will enjoy the paintings of local artists. Here you can also admire the altar, the ancient organ, and in fact, the entire outer façade of the cathedral looks especially solemn.
The church is currently closed for reconstruction indefinitely.
Museums. Which ones are worth visiting?
Hotel de Caumont – Art Center
The exact address - 3 rue Joseph Cabassol, Aix-en-Provence.
Opening hours in summer time(from May to September): from 10 am to 7 pm, in winter (from October to April) – from 10 am to 18 pm.
You can get to the museum's website by clicking on. 
New arts center and museum in a private 18th century mansion! I definitely recommend visiting, because an unforgettable day awaits you. You can stroll through the garden, drink coffee and dessert in a cafe, but most importantly, visit a unique exhibition. For example, this summer we were lucky enough to attend a large exhibition of works by William Turner, which ran from May 4, 2016 to September 18, 2016. Ticket prices vary, for example, there is currently an exhibition dedicated to Marilyn Monroe. A full ticket will cost 19 EUR; there is a system of discounts for students and pensioners (ticket price – 16 EUR).
Garnet Museum
Address - Place Saint Jean de Malte, Aix-en-Provence.
The museum is open every day except Monday. Opening hours: from 12.00 to 17.30.
You can access the museum's website by following this link. 
The museum is definitely worth a visit for those who are interested in impressionism. In addition to the permanent exhibition, temporary exhibitions are often held there, and they can be absolutely delightful. A single ticket costs 8 EUR and includes the opportunity to visit the neighboring branch, which is a 5-minute walk away - Chapelle Granet XXeme. And this opportunity cannot be missed! It is there that the most interesting works of such masters as Picasso, Monet, Van Gogh, Giacometti, Dubuffet and many others are collected.
Musee du Calisson, Confiserie du Roy Rene
Address - 5380 Route d'Avignon Quartier la Calade RD7N, Aix-en-Provence. 
As I mentioned above, calissons are local sweets made from almond flour and dried fruits. It tastes like marzipan. As you can already guess, it is at this factory that real calissons are made. Here you can watch the factory at work, and of course, buy sweets in a specialized store.
What to see in 1 day
Aix-en-Provence is beautiful because almost all of the above attractions can be explored in just 1 day, and without falling off your feet from fatigue. But there is no guarantee that you won’t fall in love with this city and want to spend as much time there as possible!
Start your acquaintance with the square La Rotonde, which is famous for its magnificent fountain in all respects ( Fontaine de la Rotonde).
This fountain is the largest in Aix. This area smoothly transitions into the previously mentioned Boulevard Mirabeau (Cours Mirabeau), along which you can go deep into the Old Town.
It will be wonderful to arrive in Aix early in the morning to attend the morning farmers market(there are several of them in the city, but, on the advice of local residents, I highly recommend the one located on Place Richelme). It’s difficult to leave there without shopping: goat cheese (soft Banon cheese and young cheese made from goat or sheep’s milk Brousse are especially popular), olives marinated in Provençal herbs, fresh bread, salami, two or three bottles of rose wine. Close to food market often found floral. You can imagine the aroma there! 
Take a walk to City Hall, where the previously mentioned urban town hall with a Gothic clock tower. Pay attention to the figures that are located under the clock and represent the seasons, changing each other depending on the season. Address - Place de l'Hotel de ville, Aix-en-Provence.
Relax on the summer terrace of a cafe and treat yourself to a glass of wine or a refreshing Spritz cocktail, which has become very popular lately. And then, having gained strength, go to a museum or visit the workshop of Paul Cezanne. You will remember this day for a long time!
What to see in the area
Be sure to visit some wine chateau and take part in tastings! Our favorites are:
Food. What to try
Aix-en-Provence is simply famous for its huge number of all kinds of bars, cafes and restaurants. Almost every street in the Old Town is literally “stuffed” with establishments, which are always full of people. It's amazing how such a small town can accommodate so many different places. 
Here you can find a place to suit every taste. Locals prefer traditional French cuisine, visiting French people love to visit this region for the Provençal delicacies that can only be tasted here. There are many cafes in the city with Italian cuisine, and this is what young people love. If all of the above gets boring, you can also find establishments with Japanese, Iranian and even Russian cuisine.
The average cost of dinner in a regular restaurant is 25-40 EUR(depending on whether you take alcohol). Establishments serving Italian cuisine are a little cheaper: aromatic pasta will cost on average 10-15 EUR.
You can have a profitable lunch by giving preference to a set lunch (analogous to a business lunch), which will cost 15-20 EUR. This lunch consists of a first course, a main course and a dessert. Some drinks are often included in the price.
Budget
- Le Bouche a Oreille, 1 rue Aumone Vieille.
- Aux Petits Oignons, 2 rue Peyresc.
- Via Italia, 4 rue d Italie.
- Piacere Little Italy, 4 rue de la Couronne.
- Crepes cidre et compagnie, 23 Rue de Lacepede.
Mid-level
- Le 18, 18 Rue Boulegon.
- La Table des Delices de Sebastien, 57 avenue Maurice Plantier.
- Le Contrepoint, 15 rue Constantin.
- Le Patio, 16 rue victor leydet.
- Hue Cocotte, 9 Place Ramus.
- Marasino, 2 B avenue Victor Hugo.
Expensive
- Mitch, 26 rue des Tanneurs.
- La Chimere Cafe, 15 rue Brueys.
- Le Millefeuille, 8 rue Rifle Rafle.
- L'Opera, 18 rue Fermee.
- Le Formal – Caves Henri IV, 32 rue Espariat.
- L'epicurien Restaurant, 13 Forum des Cardeurs.
Holidays
You will be very lucky if your trip falls between June 30 and July 20. At this time, the annual Aix-en-Provence Opera Festival takes place, which is one of the most famous in the world. All information about this event can be found.
In general, something happens in Provence almost every month. In December you can visit the olive oil festival, in January - the Saint-Clair festival, when roasted piglets will be sold in the markets. February is known for the mimosa holiday and festival sea urchins and other sea creatures. In March you can visit and visit music Festival Babel Med. Holidays of strawberries, cherries, asparagus - what did the Provencals come up with so as not to get bored! It is impossible to list everything.
If you decide to spend several days or weeks in Aix or its surroundings, you should definitely contact the local tourist office, which is located at 300 avenue Giuseppe Verdi, Les allées provençales. There they will definitely tell you about upcoming events. Office website.
Things to do
Shopping and shops
In terms of shopping, this city can be called a real find for fans of fashion brands and for lovers of vintage and antiques. Here you will find Louis Vuitton and Moschino, Agnès B and Loft boutiques. At L’Atelier you can try on new items from Chloé and choose some accessories from Vivienne Westwood. Be sure to check out the First boutique, where Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Dior await you.
As for the mass market, in Aix you can also find the well-known and beloved Zara and H&M, however, compared to large shopping centers Marseille, the choice is quite limited.
Please note that you are unlikely to be able to wander around the shops on Sunday - almost all of them will be closed.
In Aix-en-Provence you can find some interesting things at flea markets and antique shops. Lovers of wonders and rarities come here not only from all over France, but from all corners of the planet.
Don't forget about the previously mentioned farmers' and flower markets, which take place simultaneously in several squares of the city.
Bars. Where to go
Aix is intense night life and many bars. Particularly popular are wine bars, tapas bars and, oddly enough, Irish pubs, which somehow do not fit in with a bohemian bourgeois town. 
The following places are worth noting:
- Happy Days Cafe, 1 Rue Mejanes.
A very interesting place. Cocktail bar by day, gay bar by night. Yes, yes, a real gay bar in the center of Aix-en-Provence! The bartender of this establishment told us about this, who clarified that all the most interesting parties take place on Fridays and Saturdays, starting from 1 am until the morning! Although official version the bar closes at 2am. Prices are average and below average. During happy hour - from 15.00 to 18.00 - you can grab a glass of wine or a Spritz cocktail at attractive prices. A glass of wine will cost 3-4 EUR, a cocktail – 6 EUR. - Le Brigand, 17 place Richelme.
Students say this is the best beer bar in the whole city. The establishment is open from 10 am to 2 am. Prices are below average. - Pub O'Sullivan's, Place des Augustins (Rue Espariat).
A real Irish pub – Guinness and Kilkenny are flowing! You can also order some snacks, but you won't find anything substantial here.
Opening hours: from 11 am to 2 am, on Sunday until 12 am. Prices are average and below average. - Le Cintra, 14 Place Jeanne D Arc.
Oysters, mussels and cool wine are what awaits you in this truly French place. Open 24 hours a day! Prices are above average. - L'Amoroso, 8 rue Aimeric David.
Operates like a regular Italian restaurant, but with a top-notch wine and cocktail menu. This is the place to start your evening. Prices are above average.
How to get around the city
Getting around the city is very easy, we almost never used public transport(although that's okay here). Ex is the kind of city where you want to endlessly walk, get lost, and turn into previously unknown cobbled streets. However, if you decide to rent a villa, which is located far enough from the city center (about 5 km), it will be difficult without a car. We rented a car several times for a couple of days to go to some chateau for a bottle of wine and go for a picnic to Mount Sainte-Victoire. But in fact, you don’t need a car to move around the city - you don’t have to waste time looking for parking spaces and save money on it. As a rule, parking in France is paid. You can find your way around car rental prices.
A great idea would be to rent a bike! And it’s possible to cover the distance to the chateau, and the physical activity won’t be unnecessary. You have to put the gained kilograms somewhere.
I recommend this company. You can also contact.
Buses
There is no metro or tram in Aix. Everyone gets around either on foot, by car, or by bus.
You can buy a ticket for one trip from the driver, or take care of it in advance and purchase a “pre-paid pass” - this is cheaper. You can buy such a pass at the ticket office of the bus station. Since we have never used buses, and the cost of the ticket varies depending on where you are going, I will not provide exact information on this matter. But all the details can be found on booking sites! Don't overpay. This !
Rent a Car- also an aggregation of prices from all rental companies, all in one place, let's go!
Anything to add?
French Riviera
The fourth day of the trip to Provence and the last part of my
Cote d'Azur
: Nice, San Rafael, Saint Tropez, Bandol. Aix-en-Provence
I was traveling without a specific residential address. At first the end point of this day was assumed Grasse, but it turned out to be some nondescript small town. For me, the previous stop in Castellane was more interesting. So I pressed the gas and after about 40 minutes I was driving into Nice.
Or rather, I stopped at some parking lot and, using the mobile Internet, booked a hotel for one night in Nice, not far from the old year and the promenade on the Nice embankment: Hotel Victor Hugo Nice
The lower town of Nice is quite simple and divided into squares with one-way streets, so I found the hotel quickly.
What about parking? The owner of the hotel, which is a multi-room apartment on the ground floor of an old mansion, suggested that I need to find something on the street somewhere and pay for parking at the parking machine rate. However, when I tried to put a 2 euro coin found near the place where I threw the car, an elderly woman called out to me:
- Monsieur, you don’t have to pay!
- And why?
— Today is Sunday and parking on the street is free.
Thanking the woman, I threw my things into the room given to me: everything is fine, there is free Internet, a shower and the size of the room is not Parisian: I went outside and went for a walk around the city
The city has already dressed up for Christmas: a skating rink has been built in the center (this is at plus 20 during the day), a Christmas tree market has been opened, and children and non-children have been sent to spin on a frenzy wheel.
Beautiful illumination, beautiful streets, but somehow I didn’t like it here, even though I had dinner in a good restaurant - I didn’t feel comfortable in Nice. There was something about it from the station: a lot of colorful people from different places, much ado about nothing.
Therefore, after walking and photographing something in Vieux-Nice, which seemed interesting to me, periodically drinking a glass of wine, I quite accidentally wandered into the gateway behind a well-dressed couple walking in front of me and had a wonderful dinner in the restaurant La Maison de Marie.
And the next morning, after breakfast, I set off to the west, along the highway, along the coast. I deliberately didn’t go along the roads along the sea, because I didn’t want to waste time on traffic lights and traffic jams, thinking that the picture opening up to me would be the same: fences and gates of villas separating the shore, precious meters and acres of coastline from prying eyes.
San Rafael
The next point of my journey along the Cote d'Azur was Port De Frejus And Saint Raphael. Having quickly taken the toll road to the exit for San Rafael, I drove for some time along the stretch of coast between these towns, looking for something that would make me stop and look around. This something turned out to be an inflatable snowman on the San Rafael embankment. Leaving the car under a sign prohibiting parking, I walked with the camera in my hands along several streets, but there was no desire to remove the lens cap.
- No, this is not my place, Cote d'Azur.
I don't feel comfortable here somehow. Therefore, having reached Saint Tropez with a bottle of rose wine from the Bandol wineries, I did not find fish sellers at the fish market, which in St. Tropez was a room under the arches the size of an average glass store somewhere in Biryulyovo.
I was hoping for more, so after breathing tobacco smoke into the compressor supplying air to the diver who was working on something at the bottom of the marina, I decided to go to the origins - to Bandol
But there was desolation there too, unfortunately. In one of the cafes they gave me directions to one of the wineries, located closer to the Verdon Canyon than to Bandol, and they were not sure that it would be open.
Therefore, spitting on the Cote d'Azur with its dense buildings, I moved to Aix en Provence, since it was starting to get dark and I had already booked an overnight stay via the Internet again.
Aix-en-Provence
As soon as I, walking down the street and seeing shells in the boxes, pestered the seller with questions, and he directed me behind the wall to a restaurant, where I sat down and ordered champagne with two servings of oysters... I immediately fell in love with Aix-en-Provence.
Oysters
By the way, a good restaurant - I can recommend it Les Deux Garcons, but the champagne is there... I stared at the bill and asked, “Didn’t you pour me a crystal?” What are you talking about, of course not. But in all French restaurants champagne is expensive. Having chatted a little about this topic with the garçon, I came to the conclusion that the difference between Italy and France is that in the first (in Italy) sparkling wine costs a little more than still water in France...
The oysters were served with oranges and there was bread and butter underneath. I’ve never eaten oysters with bread, but I tried it and liked it: gillardeau number 3 were very tender
Strange, but it was Monday. I understand the flower market, but the cheese and seafood stalls did not fit into the schedule of markets in Provence that I studied before the trip.
I wish I could live like this: it’s fresh, you can bargain, they let you try it and can cook it right away: for example, fry fish without cutting it up, and you can take some greens from your neighbor... it’s a pity they don’t bottle the wine.
However, the pictures in supermarkets are no worse. I'm sorry, but I deleted these photos from my phone, so I'm posting them in full size.
But this has some advantage, since you can immediately see the prices of champagne in the store Carrefour
Fifth and sixth days of travel.
Arles, Camargue park
As a base, I chose a good motel 12 km from Arles: Hôtel et Résidence de la Transhumance and I can confidently recommend this place: quiet, bedroom and large living room made like a studio, fully equipped kitchen, internet, breakfast (not included in the price, but good ), 100 meters away there is a supermarket with some crazy prices for wine: I walked down the aisle several times and looked for wine that cost more than 5 euros per bottle.
Did not have. In the end, I took Montepulciano d’Abruzzo for 1.79 euros a bottle. Holy shit, people from Italy wrote to me on Facebook that this wine is more expensive on sale.
Because of this, I stopped going to restaurants and switched to grazing, that is, I stocked up on fresh seafood and wine in the supermarket and clowned around by posting photos on Facebook.
As for Arles, it is a small, pretty town with an arena where bullfighting is held in French, that is, the bulls are not killed, but only affectionately stroked on the head.
Probably everything about Arles.
Below Arles there are plains with water meadows and swamps. There are white horses grazing on the free grass. They say that this is the most ancient breed of horses and their ancestors are unicorns. There is something ancient about them: they are inactive and usually stand staring at one point, as if they had smoked something.
Several resort towns of these places Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer(it’s enough to enter French names with hyphens into the navigator. Literally, Saints-Virgin-Mary-on-the-Sea) and a village with a large marina Le Grau-du-Roi(let’s call it “the king’s degree” or the king under the degree) were empty at this time. Muddy waves crashed on the brown sandy shores and only a couple of surfers in wetsuits tried to do stand-up.
The next point of my program in this park was a visit to lakes with a large colony of flamingos. If you drive from St. Mary's to Morea, then you need to keep to the right and as a result the narrow asphalt road will go close to the sea, so that even the waves can overwhelm it, but this does not happen - it’s shallow. I met several parked jeeps with boats on trailers. But I don’t understand how you can fish here.
They also mine in these places salt. I went to look at this - the process is simple, sea water settles in wide and shallow reservoirs, where through evaporation fresh water salt concentration increases.
This concentrate is then fed by pumps, which quickly fail due to corrosion, onto the existing pile of salt on a dry surface through sprinklers. At the same time, some more of the water evaporates.
Conclusion
I don’t remember how much this trip cost me. But I don't think it's crazy much. Although I didn’t deny myself anything. In addition, the operating hours of restaurants in Provence partially saved my budget: for lunch I had to buy at Lidl I ate wine and champagne, seafood prepared there and that’s minus 40-50 euros every day.
France is not that pricey. Moscow is more expensive (I went to the Rybny Bazaar restaurant for dinner here and paid 250 euros, taking into account the fact that I had a 10% discount).
Therefore, feel free to go to Provence and enjoy its atmosphere and views. It’s not in vain that famous artists of the world spent their creative time here. True, I didn’t particularly like the food there... it was a bit greasy for me.
43.676675 4.627502
North of Marseille.
Aix-en-Provence was founded in 123 BC. Roman consul Gaius Sextus Calvinus.
In the 5th century Aix-en-Provence was conquered by the Visigoths, then the city passed to the Franks and Lombards until it was captured by the Saracens in 731, and liberated in 737 by Charles Martel, who went down in history as the liberator of Europe from Arab invaders.
During the Middle Ages, Aix-en-Provence was the capital of Provence.
And, starting from the 12th century, it became a city of art and education.
In the 15th century Aix-en-Provence passed to the French kingdom.
Now Aix-en-Provence is one of the most beautiful and elegant cities in Provence, a rich, bourgeois city with beautiful architecture, numerous cafes and restaurants, attracting crowds of tourists and vacationers, with a vibrant student life and a variety of cultural events.
Wide Boulevard Mirabeau (cours Mirabeau) was founded in 1650, it is surrounded by ancient houses (XVI-XVIII centuries) and decorated with fountains, lush trees create a green tunnel and create a shady coolness.
Fountain on Boulevard Mirabeau. Aix-en-Provence. France.
Boulevard Mirabeau. Aix-en-Provence. France.
Among the numerous cafes and restaurants, Deux Garcons (house 53), built in 1792, stands out. Paul Cezanne, Emile Zola and Ernes Hemingway loved to visit it. And nearby, in house No. 55, the famous artist Paul Cezanne spent his childhood years.
Passage Agar.
On the other side of Boulevard Mirabeau is the Mazarin quarter. Here in the second half of the 17th century. The residence of the brother of Cardinal Mazarin was located and the nobles of Aix built their magnificent mansions. Nowadays there are chic shops, art galleries, and antique shops here.
On the other side of the boulevard there is a bright, noisy and colorful market, the epicenter of which is Place de Verdun.
Aix-en-Provence. France.
Aix-en-Provence. France.
Narrow streets lead to a cozy square with a clock tower, erected in 1661. The small square is lined with tables and cafes located here. There is a fountain in the center (1756)
Aix-en-Provence. France.
Aix-en-Provence. France.
Nearby is another charming square - lace des Cardeurs, decorated with an Italian-style esplanade and an original fountain, erected in 1977 according to the design of Jean Amado.
Aix-en-Provence. France.
Aix-en-Provence. France.
Up the busy street Gaston de Saporta you can go to Cathedral, which is located in the former Roman forum. The first cathedral on this site was built in the 5th century. Since then, the cathedral was rebuilt several times, until the 17th century, when it received a Gothic portal. Inside the cathedral there are works of art from the 15th-17th centuries, including a triptych (15th century) depicting King René the Good and his wife (Rene the Good became Duke of Provence in 1434); it is also worth paying attention to the font of the 5th century.
There are many universities located in the city; this tradition dates back to Louis II of Anjou, who in 1409 gave universities privileges.
Traditional flatbreads from Provence – fougasse– baked from wheat flour with cheese.
Fougasse. Aix-en-Provence. France.
Interesting local sweets - calisson, which are made from candied almonds and fruit.
