The most famous wine of the Rhone Valley. Northern Rhône - wine-growing valley in France

The regional wine of this region will be called Cotes du Rhone, it can be made anywhere in this area, it can be either white or red.
The Rhone River is very long, begins in Swiss Alps ah and flows almost vertically, then flows into the Mediterranean Sea. This is one of the most long rivers in Europe, the length of which exceeds 800 km. Wine-growing regions occupy the last 200 km of its riverbed, where the riverbed is very wide and has a unique terroir.
The vineyards here are some of the most ancient. In general, the vineyards in the south are said to be the oldest, since it was here that the Romans first invaded the territory of Gaul (a region in Western Europe, in the territory of modern Italy, France, Belgium, western Switzerland, also including part of the territory of Holland and western part Germany - left bank of the Rhine River).

Accordingly, by 125 BC, Roman settlements (military bases) occupied the entire territory of the modern province of the Rhone Valley. At the beginning of our era, when the Roman Empire began to decline, it was the Rhône Valley, the bed of the Rhône, that became the border between the free Gaulish settlements and the remnants of the Roman Empire. The left bank was Roman, and the right bank was Galician. All the best vineyards were based on the left bank.
In the Rhone Valley, the ancient method of tying vines still prevails. The trellis is used very rarely. Constant rains, very strong western winds - mistrals - and because of these winds the wind can simply tear out the trellis. Sometimes the bunches just lie on the ground. The soil here is quite dry, so there is no threat of fungus or mold. When the vines are young, they are tied to a V-shaped hoop (lyra molding); as soon as the trunk becomes woody, this V is removed and an antique molding is obtained.

The total area of ​​the Rhone Valley exceeds 80,000 hectares. In the era of the Roman Empire, vineyards were divided into left and right banks, but today the division is different: Northern Rhone and the Southern Rhône, and the intermediate region of Die (Dues).

Northern Rhone

The northern Rhône has a continental climate, with less moisture but more sun. If not for the cold western winds, this would be a fertile region for the vine. Mineral soils have a very complex composition. But due to the cool summer, thanks to the mistrals, the grapes ripen slowly and evenly, so the wines here are predominantly single-seed wines. In the north, it is not customary to mix different grape varieties with each other.

The main red variety is Syrah.
the king of Northern Rhône wines or the only grape variety allowed in Northern Rhône red wines.
Syrah is one of the five most remarkable, most famous red varieties in the world, and has several clones. The main two clones: Gros Syrah, Petit Syrah.
Gros is a clone with large berries, Petit - with small ones. Gros Sirah is more common in France, but Petit Sirah produces an order of magnitude better quality, more concentrated, more powerful wine. According to statistics: 95% Gros Syrah, 5% Petit Sirah (all Syrah grown in France).
Syrah has a fairly thick skin (especially the Petit variety), for this reason the wine has good acidity, close to the acidity of Cabernet Sauvignon, but the supply of tannins is less than that of Cabernet, the ability to accumulate good sugar is higher, so Syrah can produce very alcoholic wines in hot climates .
Due to the alcohol, acidity and sufficient tannin reserve, Syrah has good aging potential, tolerates barrels well, has a dark ruby ​​color when young and turns red very slowly.

Varietal aromas: The main aroma, for which it is immediately recognized, is black pepper, also blackberries, red currants, especially if the berries grew in a cool climate, they give the aromas of red currants more than blackberries. Syrah wines easily exhibit smoke and smokiness if there is a little minerality in the soil. If Syrah is fermented at a high enough temperature, it will develop a burnt rubber aroma (for example, wines from Australia, especially the Barossa Valley). You can also note tobacco shades, aromas of garigue (these are heather heaths, where lavender, rosemary, and various spices have been growing for centuries).

Origin: Gros Syrah is considered an older clone, derived from the Mondeuse variety. Mondeuse is a variety that is found not only in the south of France, but also in the north of Italy. In Friuli Venezia Giulia it is called Refosco del Peduncolo. A very ancient, stable variety, but it is not as aromatic, not as tannic, not as bright as Gros Sirah.
Petit Sirah has many versions. The most common version was about the crusaders who brought this grape variety from the crusade to the city of Jerusalem. On the road to Jerusalem there is a small Persian city of Shiraz, where the crusaders rested. It is believed that they were brought from Shiraz. But unfortunately, in our time, about 20 years ago, geneticists refuted this version, genetically proving that Petit Sirah is just a mutation of Gros Sirah.

White varieties:

Viognier
It has a silvery color in the first year of life, almost like mineral water. This grape variety can grow where other varieties cannot, it has a very short growing season, it blooms later than other varieties, and ripens earlier, before the autumn cold. And because of this short ripening period, it does not have time to gain color and sufficient sugar. And Viognier from the Northern Rhône is a pale, low-alcohol, very delicate wine with virtually no potential; it should be drunk at a very young age. The best live 3-4 years at most.
Varietal aromas: primarily apricots, aromas of blossoming hawthorn, peach, whipped cream and, with age, Viognier gives a hint of grated nutmeg.

Two other white varieties violate the monosegment formula:
Marsanne and Roussanne. For the vast majority of white wines, they are used only together. They complement each other, they have a common ancestor, this can be seen in the shape of the bunch, in the berries, but Marsanne has a good palette of aroma, fragrant, lush, but very light, somewhat empty in taste, does not add any sugar or glycerin, but with Roussanne everything on the contrary, there is very little aromatics, but dense, thick, oily with good alcohol, so adding these two varieties in a 50 to 50 ratio gives the perfect balance. Local winemakers call them one two-headed variety.
Varietal aromas: Marsanne is distinguished by its dominance of almonds, ranging from bitter forest almonds to marzipan dough, flowering almonds, flowering ocacia, drog and other honey plants. But Roussanne only has white fruit pulp.

Appellations

Northernmost zone - AOC Cat Roti (AOC Cote Rotie).
Area 220 hectares. The vineyard was highly prized in the Roman Empire, with hillsides so steep that the Romans called the slopes vertiginous. The terraces on which the grapes grow were built more than 2000 years ago. All work in this vineyard is carried out manually. Only red wine is made here and the variety that reigns is Gros Syrah, but in hot, dry years it is allowed to add up to 15% Viognier to Syrah, so that the wine does not turn out too sharp, burning and tannic. The soil is dominated by shale. Slate gives a smoky note, so Cote Roti wines are always smoky. The most famous vineyards of Cote Roti are Cote Brune and Cote Blond, or Brunette Hill and Blonde Hill.
There is a legend that a certain lord de Mogiron had two daughters, one blonde and the other brunette, when he gave them in marriage, he gave land as a dowry to his daughters. But despite this, the wines turn out different. According to legend, they say that the blonde was a very flighty person who squandered all her capital in her youth, and the brunette turned out to be smarter, more serious, and the dawn of her beauty and prosperity came in her mature years. Therefore, the wines took on the character of the lord’s daughters. Côte Blonde wines are recommended to be consumed young, when their aroma is most pronounced, while Côte Brune wines, on the contrary, gain fullness and subtlety of taste only after aging. Well, another reason is that Côte Brune is better lit, the wines are indeed darker, more alcoholic, more temperamental, and Côte Blonde in the southwest is susceptible to the strong effects of the mistral, which is why it is more windy and colder, the aroma is more delicate, alcoholic slightly less. Characteristic aromas: aromas of smoke, violets, blackberries, dogwoods, spices, eventually complemented by notes of hazelnuts and almonds.

AOC Condrieu

The area is only 20 hectares. Here, unlike Cote Roti, they make only white wine and only from Viognier. If you look at the map, the Rhone here turns sharply to the south, it turns out that the vineyards are oriented to the north, Syrah does not ripen here, but Viognier always ripens. The soil is the same as in Kot Roti, the same steep, narrow terraces. The yield here is fantastically low, no more than 20 hl per hectare. I would like to say, poor winemakers, not only is all the work done manually, but the harvest is also low. The wine must be at least fantastic and of good quality in order for the winemaker to make any money. The Condrieu style is quite complex and is a wine for connoisseurs. Characteristic aromas: spicy, honey tones. Potential 3-4 years maximum. The wine goes well with Mediterranean fish.

AOC Chateau Grillet

This amazing appellation includes only one farm. The castle is its own appellation. He is not the only one in France. In Burgundy there is AOC Romanee-Conti, La Tache, and in the Loire Valley Clos de la Coulee de Serrant.
The slope here has an abnormal steepness, more than 45 degrees. This unique terroir was formed hundreds of thousands of years ago due to the fall of an unknown celestial body, once it was a hill, either an asteroid or a comet fell and cut off half of the hill.
Geological layers have been exposed that grapes cannot reach anywhere else. This soil is over one hundred million years old. And Viognier, which is the only one that grows here, is considered the best Viognier in the world. Typically, wines from Viognier varieties are consumed young, but here they are aged for up to two years in barriques. Chateau Grillet has notes of apricot, truffles and honey in the aroma, and apricot, orange and tangerine in the taste. The wine is very aromatic and refined. The volume is 10-13 thousand bottles per year, depending on the harvest. The potential of Chateau Grillet reaches up to 5 years, in some years it exceeds.

Left Coast

Literally translated from French, “Hermitage” means “the place where the hermit lives.” In our Winter Palace, the Hermitage was originally called the wing where Catherine retired, the place where she rested. And then this word migrated to the entire building.
There is a chapel on the hill of the Hermitage, which has an amazing history; it began in 1224, when the Civil War. The Roman Catholic Church began to fight the Albigensian heresy. The French queen Blanca of Castile sent all her troops to suppress the Albigensian heresy. The Albigensians or Cathars (children of the devil - as the Catholic Roman Church called them) are a religious sect, one might say the first hippies, tired of torturing themselves with work, said “God is love” and left the monasteries for the south of France, then the south of France was completely unpopulated. There they began to live in communes, without money. Naturally, they did not pay any taxes to the churchmen. For the first two centuries, Rome looked disapprovingly, but did not take decisive measures. But when the Albigenses invaded the Languedoc and began to build cities, then Rome’s patience ran out and they were declared the children of the devil on earth and all the troops were sent against them. The wars were fierce, about a million people died (counting on both sides).
And in general, in fact, this split between the north (Paris) and the south (Languedoc) was present in the life of France for a very long time. So, in 1224, one of the most prominent marshals of France, Henri Gaspard Sterinberg, who led more than one crusade, was the only military leader who refused to go on a crusade; he refused to raise his sword against his compatriots. The queen was merciful to him. She allowed him to retire. In the Middle Ages, retirement for a military man was possible only through adoption of monasticism. He became a monk. He was granted a separate chapel standing on the top

Hill, where he settled. Local peasants named this hill Hermitage, the place where the hermit lives. According to legend, it was Sterinberg who brought an amazing vine from the Persian town of Shiraz, which produced such wonderful wine that all the surrounding peasants came to confess to him twice a day. He cleared up a steep slope overgrown with bushes, common to the Northern Rhone, and planted grapevines on it, marking the beginning of a new vineyard.
And accordingly, after his death, the monks who inherited the hill, they expanded the Hermitage and called it Crozes-Hermitage (around the Hermitage). The area of ​​the Crozes-Hermitage is almost 10 times larger than the Hermatage (1235 hectares).
Hermitage and Croze-Hermitage wines are made from Petit Sirah or Shiraz grapes (in France, only Hermitage and Croze-Hermitage are made from Petit Sirah, all other Syrah is Gros Sirah). The fact is that in Australia there is practically no Gros Syrah, there is such a warm, favorable climate that all the Syrah that is presented in Austria is Petit Sirah. The Australians called it the Hermitage. And of course, the French really don’t like it when some outsiders use great French names (for example: Champagne, Chablis, Cognac) and forbade calling the Hermitage, then the Australians began to say Shiraz, due to the same Persian legend. Then at some time Syrah and Shiraz were used interchangeably. In 2010, this was put an end to, and now under international law, Shiraz is just Petit Sirah, and Gros Sirah is just Syrah.

In fact, there is also a white Hermitage. It is done on a very small plot of less than 20 hectares. Alpine pebbles, quartz, and marble are stuck here. The snow-white soil reflects a lot of sunlight and produces a very honeyed and fragrant wine. They make white Hermitage from a mixture of Marsanne and Roussanne. Young white Hermitage smells of marzipan and almonds, but when it is at the peak of ripeness, a hint of green coffee appears in it, very rare for white wines and very much appreciated. In addition, Marsanne and Roussanne are allowed to be added to Syrah, again if the year was very hot, as in Cote Roti, but here you can add up to 20%, and not 15% as in Cote Roti.
But the red Croze-Hermitage should absolutely not be diluted. Only 100% Syrah. It is located on a plain and the wine itself is light; if you dilute it, the wine will turn out to be a compote.
White Croze-Hermitage, it is also made from Marsanne and Roussanne, the potential is minimal, 3-4 years.

AOC Saint-Joseph(back to the right bank)

Area almost 1000 hectares (almost 989)
White, red and rose wines, but has specialized in reds for the last decade. The soil is a mixture of granite and slate. Red wines are very warm in aromatics, soft, southern. The French also call them Malva wine. Mallow is a very tall southern flower with large pink and red flowers. Red mallow is said to have the sweetest aroma of its petals. For this reason, wines from St. Joseph are considered feminine.
White wines are made from Marsanne and Roussanne. They are quite simple, they contain a lot of alcohol, a honey aroma and various herbs.

AOC Cornas

Small appellation, 100 hectares. The complete opposite of St. Joseph. The soil is pure granite, but covered with a thick layer of clay. Because of this, the wines are very tough, very difficult to drink at a young age, but they go very well with lamb, with large game. The wines from Karnas are very brutal. Wines from Gros Sirah.

AOC Saint-Pieray

Area 62 hectares. Once upon a time, only white wine was made here, from Marsanne and Roussanne, wine for every day. Many deep adits have been preserved here. The production of sparkling wine has developed over the last 30 years. Chardonnay was specially planted, based on Massana and Roussanne and Chardonnay.

Dioise region or Die region

A record-breaking Roman quarry was left here.
It was here that the production of sparkling wine began 150 years before Champagne. This ancient method of producing sparkling wine is the Method Dioise, i.e. a method invented in the field of Die. In other regions of France, this method is called the Ansestral method or the Rural method. The Diuas method involves only one fermentation, which begins in the container and ends in the bottle. That is, roughly speaking, the wine is bottled while still in a state of fermentation, the yeast eats up the last of the sugar and falls to the bottom of the bottle. Today the overwhelming sparkling wine of the Diouas region is made in the usual way.
The most famous stars from the Die region are Claret de Die and Crémant de Die.
Claret de Die is much more ancient. Even the ancestors of the Gallic tribes, around 120 BC, highly valued these sparkling wines, as the Roman author Pliny the Elder wrote about. They left a vessel filled with liquid in the rivers for the winter, and pulled out the vessel only in the spring,

The result was a precious, sweet and sparkling liquid. Today this precious liquid is called Clarette de Die. Initially, this wine was made exclusively from the claret variety. This is a very aromatic, perfumed variety, a relative of Muscat; Clairette's berries are very small and very sweet. The fact is that in the old days, when all sparkling wines were sweet, wines from Muscat, from aromatic varieties, were valued. And then wines from the Die region were paid twice as much as wines from Champagne. Claret has a drawback - it's a penny. Productivity is low. Therefore, in the 19th century, Muscat of Alexandria was gradually added to it. Also perfumed and sugary. And therefore, according to modern law, only 25% Clairette is allowed for Claret de Die wine, and 75% Muscat. And the wine is still called Claret de Die.

Well, these days, the adherents of Clairette have made their way into the new appellation of Crémant de Die.
It has existed (Crémant de Die) since 1993 and produces wine from 100% Clairette. That is, it turns out that we are all confused, there is practically no Clairette in Claret de Die wine, and where there is 100% Clairette, it is Cremant de Die.
And separately there is also a wine Claret de Die Method Ansestral. It is produced in almost micro quantities. Of course, there is still a yeasty note, but still the wine is unlike anything else. Today in Italy there is a boom in the Ansestral method.

Southern Rhone

She is the complete opposite of the north.
The climate is Mediterranean. The southern Rhône is like a patchwork quilt, with all types of soils to be found. The main soil is clay. Rhône pebbles are on average the size of an adult's fist, and the thickness of these pebbles varies greatly. This layer of stones can exceed several meters, even 9 meters has been recorded somewhere. The fields of these pebbles can be of different origins, somewhere marble, somewhere granite, somewhere slate. In any case, a thick layer of stone creates good drainage; it also works like a battery; the stones heat up during the day and cool down very slowly at night. This soil protects the vines from diseases and promotes good ripening. That's why the best vineyards in the Southern Rhône are fields of pebbles.

Grape varieties:

Initially there was one red variety - Syrah (Syrah)(mostly Gros Syrah), but when the phylloxera epidemic occurred, almost all the vineyards of the Southern Rhone were not replanted. Since this region was poor, people from the Southern Rhone are poor peasants, and accordingly there was no one who could establish vineyards. But just at this time there was a boom in the popularity of olive oil. Until the beginning of the 20th century, the great French, Parisian cuisine despised olive oil. They believed that this was a product of the poor, but in Paris they cooked everything in goose oil, in lard. Doctors have discovered the beneficial properties of olive oil. The authorities of the Southern Rhone decided that it was very promising to plant olive trees, so everyone who went bankrupt was given subsidies for planting trees. Of course, some individual vineyards survived, but there were less than 10%. Olive oils fed the Southern Rhône well. Until 1956 came. Then, in the south of France, abnormal frosts (Siberian) occurred and, accordingly, all the olive trees were destroyed. By that time, Greek olive oils poured in; in the post-war period, it became unprofitable to produce olive oil in France. There has already been a boom in French wines. And accordingly, money was allocated for the purchase of grape seedlings and the Southern Rhone started everything from scratch. But the cunning southern French did not buy vines from French nurseries; they bought vines en masse in the north of Spain, where seedlings were 4-5 times cheaper. And they brought the Garnacha variety (in the French version, Grenache Noir). This variety was not introduced to France until 1956. This is a peasant variety, Spanish, unpretentious, thin-skinned, produces alcoholic wines, in some ways it is similar to Merlot, because you can also start drinking wines from Grenache Noir early, and it, like Merlot, has a delicious aromatics. Main aroma: raspberry, licorice. In addition to raspberry and licorice, Grenage Noir develops aromas of garrigue, more various spices, thyme, thyme, and saffron. On mineral soils it produces smoked and smoky aromas. It mixes very well with Syrah. In the Southern Rhône, 26 grape varieties are officially permitted, the area covered by Grenache Noir is 80%. However, these varieties are important when added to Grenache Noir.

Shinso (Cinsault) No. 1 in Provence. And is used in the Southern Rhône to produce rosé wines. This is France's best variety for rosé. Quite large berries, thick skin. It does not produce intense red wines, but it does produce the most delicate, charming rosé wines. (In Taveli, the law requires a minimum of 30% sinso). Aromas of flowering trees, quince, strawberries.

Carignan. This is another variety that came from Spain, they call it Cariñena there. It has huge clusters, 3 clusters completely occupy one bucket. Huge berries produce low-quality raw materials. From the peasant's point of view, these are the best grapes. The aroma and taste of grass. To avoid this, today all Carignan is vinified using carbon dioxide maceration. And then they connect with the rest. When it is added to the main wine material, it only improves the wine, adding drunken cherries and juiciness.

Mourvedre
He is also Matara (also Spanish), he is much more noble. It grows only in the most illuminated steep areas. It has a fantastic varietal aroma: raw meat, blood. When added it gives depth and piquancy.

Vacarese
A drier variety, neutral in aromatics, with very thick skin and very high acidity. The Southern Rhône lacks acidity, is too hot, too sunny. And for most red wines they do not make JAMB, this is the only region of France where they do not make JAMB in red wines, moreover, in Chateauneuf de Pape it is forbidden to make JAMB. Vacarese is needed in a hot year, when Grenache becomes too flat, when it does not gain the necessary acidity, or rather loses it.

Terret
Terre noir is a very tannic variety, as Varaquèse is added to bring out the tannins.

Muscardin
These are red perfumed varieties with the aroma of scarlet roses. Unfortunately, these varieties practically did not survive phylloxera. Most of all they can be found in northern Italy. Its aroma is of lilac and scarlet rose flowers. Because the combination causes migraine attacks in many people. When added just a little to the base Grenache Noir, it lifts the floral tones.

Picpoul
Picpoul red. It is related to Vacarese and is used in the same way as Vacarese, added for acidity.

White varieties

Grenache Blanc
A degenerate Grenache Noir, it has become discolored but retains its rapid sugar accumulation.
Aromas: young Grenache Blanc - blooming ocacia, dandelions, with age - liquid honey, wax, candied honey. The base is always honey. It has recently lacked acidity, and therefore today in the Southern Rhone they began to harvest it almost green, this allows it to retain acidity.

Clairette
This variety is endowed with fruity aromas, high alcohol, but low acidity. The aftertaste is slightly bitter.

Bourboulenc
It has a large berry, thick skin, it is hardy and adds the necessary acidity and freshness.

Appellations

AOC Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Translated it means "The Pope's New Castle". The papal residence was built near the city of Avignon in 1305. The event is associated with the schism of the Roman Catholic Church, when two popes were elected simultaneously in Rome. One pope was called correctly and ended up staying in Rome. And the other Pope fled to his friend the French King (he himself was from Bordeaux, Pope Clément),

since he was used to living in Rome, in a warm climate, he did not want to return to cold and damp Bordeaux, he wanted to settle near Avignon. He noticed the special soil of the area and chose exactly the place, far from farewells and all sorts of mongrels, but at the same time, so that the courier could get there and have time to return to the city. King Philip the Fair went to meet the Pope, and a beautiful castle was built especially for him, and a vast vineyard was immediately laid out around it, which was called Chateauneuf-du-Pape. The vineyards lasted for another 6 generations of popes, then the 7th pope returned to Rome and became the correct pope. During all periods of the papacy, Chateauneuf-du-Pape grew exclusively white grapes and made only white wines. Because in those days white wines were valued, in Rome the popes drank vernacia (white, oily, dense wine). But after the departure of the popes, the South of the Rhone became famous for its red wines. They have become more expensive than any other wines. The fact is that it was only possible to deliver wine from the Southern Rhone to Paris by land. And the road went through a very dense forest, inhabited by robbers, and only every fifth cart with a load of wine managed to get to Paris. On those carts they installed catapults and crossbows. Everything is just like military campaigns. Since they were very dark, any money in Paris would be paid for them as alcoholic ones.

The first to control wines from the Southern Rhone, which were heavily counterfeited, was Louis 14, who in 1737 obliged all wines that were intended for the royal court to be branded with a special brand on the spot. This mark consisted of three letters CdR (Cotes du Rhone). Therefore, we can say that Côtes du Rhône was the first appellation in France.

Two thirds of the wines are red, one third are white and rosé.
13 grape varieties are allowed.
Place Châteauteuf du Pape 3200 ha.

The papal castle itself, unfortunately, was bombed during the 2nd World War. The place still has a very energetic force, 7 generations of popes prayed. After the war, people most often saw UFOs here, there were a lot of flying saucers here, and at that time it was very fashionable to see UFOs. People came from all over the world to see these flying saucers. There is an official law that flying saucers are prohibited from landing in vineyards and that any crew will be destroyed. This decree is considered the funniest decree in France. There are even some wines that have images of flying saucers on the label.

Terroir is the largest pebble. Thickness 3-9 meters. These are the thickest cobblestones in the world. These vines have the longest roots. Grapes grow almost on Martian soil and produce wonderful wine.

The best producers: Chateau Beaucastel, Chateau de la Gardine, Chateau la Nerthe, Chateau Rayas, Clos des Papes, M. Chapoutier, Les Cailloux, Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe, Clos du Mont Olivet.

Gigondas

This is the oldest vineyard in the Southern Rhone. It was immediately created for the richest residents of Rome. Because it was in these parts that the most elite country houses rich Romans. It is here that the ruins of luxurious marble villas with swimming pools have been preserved. Specially brought winemakers from Rome planted the best vineyard so that these rich people would drink good wine. The vineyards of Zhigondas are the highest, they are located at an altitude of over 600-700 meters above sea level. At such a high altitude it is hot during the day and cold at night. The daily temperature range is very large, and this always doubles the aroma, color, and acidity.
First expressway Railway, which was built here, was specially curved so that passing passengers could admire the famous Dentelles de Montmirail mountains. One of the most beautiful places in France.

It is Gigondas that has been winning competitions for decades as the best red wine from the Southern Rhone. This wine is more terroir, more mineral; if Chateauneuf always has a lot of oak, spices, alcohol, then Gigondas is very narrowly focused, very bright, very memorable.
The soil is mainly shale and granite.

Tavel

Makes only rose wine. He is called the king of rose wines. This was the favorite wine of King Philip the Fair, the same one who invited the Antipope of Rome. The king had a residence here, and the king could sit for hours on the balcony, which overlooked the Tavel vineyards, and look at his favorite vineyard. Queen Margot, Balzac, etc. adored the wine.
Tavel must have the eye color of a frightened partridge. Tannic, acidic rose wine.
It is surprisingly flexible, it suits any dish, and is very gastronomic.

Lirac
Lirak has always been in Tavel's shadow. Lirac rosé wines. Today Lirac produces a lot of white wine (half white, half rosé, and just a tiny bit of red). These wines are ideal for Mediterranean cuisine. Perfectly emphasizes the aromas of tomatoes.

Vacqueras
Located in the foothills, the soil is red clay.
This appellation appeared in 1990.
The area is more than 1000 hectares.
Vakqueyraz, due to the chemical composition of the clay, gives a note of red, hot pepper. It's pretty hard to drink on its own. It goes very well in African, Mexican, and Thai cuisines. From kangaroo to ostrich, in general for the coarsest fibrous meat.
Best wines: Domaine de la Charbonniere, Tardieu-Laurent, Domaine le Sang des Cailloux.

AOC Cotes du Rhone

This appellation makes up 50% of all production and is the “entry level” of the classification. Most of these wines are reds, made from Grenache Noir and Syrah, and the vineyards are planted in a variety of soils. Production rules are not as strict, but wines must have at least 11% alc. and must be made from 26 sanctioned grape varieties.

These wines are easy to drink, very gastronomic and ideal for everyday wine.
The most notable producers: E. Guigal, M. Chapoutier, Beaucastel.

AOC Cotes du Rhone Villages
These wines are already more complex and complex; the wines can be aged much longer. This appellation includes 96 small villages, 16 of them are considered Superior, which have a label on them to be identified, for example Rasteau Cotes-du-Rhone-Villages. The five that received the most vocation are: Cairanne, Beaumes-de-Venise, Rasteau, Sablet and Seguret.

Along the two-hundred-kilometer course of the Rhone River from Vienne to Avignon, generous vineyards stretch across 75 thousand hectares of land. 12 thousand winegrowers from 26 appellations here produce about 3.3 million hl of wine per year. Of these, 92% are red wines, 6% are white and 2% are rose wines.
Depending on the soil and climatic conditions, the Rhone Valley region is divided into two large regions - northern and southern. This is not to say that they compete with each other. It is better to note that they complement each other, bringing their valuable originality to the general characteristics of the wines under the telling name “Cotes du Rhone”.

Northern Rhone

Clinging to sheer rocks with vines,
Viognier grows, fragrant and light...
And there is no better frame for a treasure,
than the warm sun and gentle wind...

The vineyards of the Northern Rhone (from Vienne to Valence), located in terraces on granite cliffs and steep hillsides, are extremely difficult to cultivate vines. However, this is where the best regional wines come from. Local grapes are a real treasure, rare and precious.

Among the grape varieties from which white wine is produced, Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne occupy a significant place. Red wines are made mainly from the Syrah variety. These wines are traditionally admired for their quality. They have the ability to be stored for a long time without losing their properties, but on the contrary, acquiring new taste and charm. The insinuating smoky tone of young Syrah with a hint of resin and woody notes after five to ten years transforms into the bright sweetness of raspberries and blackberries, captivating with the sharp aftertaste of black currants. The taste of white wines from the Northern Rhone delights with the beauty and exotic sophistication of apricot and spring flowers, shimmering with the fragrant aromas of ripe autumn fruits.

Classification in the Northern Rhône is accomplished by simply grouping wine regions geographically around a single appellation. The standard of quality here is very high, and the fame is fairly evenly distributed between the blended wines of the leading merchants and the wines of private wineries. Both of them strive for perfection, passing on family winemaking secrets from generation to generation.

Crozes-Hermitage. The literal translation is around the Hermitage. This appellation is in the shadow of its famous neighbor. P1010716.JPGSyrah from Crozes of the Hermitage, with its smoky, nutty notes, tries to compete with the wines of the Hermitage, but loses to them in richness and meatiness. White wines are also inferior to the Hermitage in terms of complexity and intensity, but they are full of freshness and drink well. The best producers: Belle, M. Chapoutier, Domaine Gilles Robin, Charles Thomas, Stephane Cornu Chateau de Curson, Delas, Fayolle…

Cote-Rotie (Cat Roti) is the second world-famous appellation of the Northern Rhone after Hermitage. It got its name (literal translation - fried slope) due to its location on a sunny rocky slope. Cote Roti is a relatively small vineyard (about 100 hectares), producing an expensive red aromatic wine in which the harshness of Syrah is softened by the sweetness of Viognier. The best producers: Domaine Yves Cuilleron, Guigal, Domaine Michel and Stephane Ogier, Jean-Michel Gerin, Jasmin, Gilles Barge, Pierre Barge, Burgaud, Champet, Clusel-Roch, Gentaz-Dervieux…

Chateau-Grillet the smallest appellation (less than 4 hectares) specializing in white wines. But anyone who has inhaled at least once the aroma of the blooming garden of the local fruit wine Chateau Grillet can never forget it. The wine produced by Chateau Grillet from the Viognier grape variety has a subtle aristocratic aroma. It is rightfully considered the best among the famous white French wines.

Condrieu— the appellation, spread over 40 hectares along the bend of the Rhone, also produces only white wines. The taste and aroma of Condrieu wines is mesmerizing; the amazing soft aroma of sweet fruit pulp is combined with the pungency and acidity inherent in all dry wines. Rare and precious white wines from the Viognier variety (Condrieu and Cliateau-Grillet) are produced here. Among the best producers are Cuilleron, Guigal, Vernay, Domaine Michel and Stephane Ogier, Mulder, Perret, Jean Pinchon, Niero Pinchon. The high price of Condrieu wines is compensated by the feeling of bliss that this wine can give.

St-Joseph (Saint-Joseph)- an appellation that produces delicious red wine, softer and lighter than the wines of the Hermitage appellation. For exotic white wines from the Saint-Joseph region, the Marsanne and Roussanne varieties are used. The best producers: M. Chapoutier, Domaine Coursodon, Chore, Courbis, Desmeure, Florentin, Gaillard, Gonon, Gripa…

Cornas produces only red wines from the Syrah variety, approaching the taste of the Hermitage wines, although the wines of the Cornas appellation lack the fresh fruity note. Top producers: Balthazar, de Barjac, Clape, Lionnet, Robert Michel, Verset and Alain Voge.

St-Peray has always been famous for its sparkling white wine. The white wines of this appellation, made from the Marsanne and Roussanne varieties, are calm and quite simple. Their neutrality can perfectly highlight the taste of an excellent dish. They do not have a bright character and do not impose their taste. Top producers: Clape, Fauterie, Grippat, Juge, Thiers and Alain Voge.

Clairette de Die high quality sparkling Muscat wine. Top producers: Achard-Vincent, Raspail and Die cooperative.

Chatillon-en-Diois calm wine from the valley. Red wines are made from Gamay with the addition of Syrah and Pinot Noir, white wines are made from Aligote and Chardonnay. Best Producer: Cooperative Die.

Southern Rhone

The vineyards of the Southern Rhone (from Bollen to Avignon) produce 95% of all Rhone Valley wines. This is a real wine reserve of France.

Southern red wines (as described by Oz Clark, the famous wine writer) are not very suitable for romantic reflections; they are drunk in large sips with meat and hearty peasant food. The white wines of the Southern Rhône are fresh, quite modern, and go well with any style. Prices for wines from the Southern Rhone are lower than in the North, although the dry Chateauneuf-du-Pape and the sweet Muscats Beaumes-de Venise have a worldwide reputation and a price commensurate with their fame.

The right bank of the Southern Rhone differs from the left bank in soil composition. On the right-bank calcareous-sandy soils interspersed with fine crushed stone, noble red varieties Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and white grape varieties such as Muscat, Viognier, as well as rare white Roussanne, Picpoul, Bourboulian, and Clairette are grown. Local red wines have a characteristic dusty flavor against a background of sweet, juicy taste.

The left bank part north of Avignon lies on sand and sediment buds, covered with a multi-meter layer of large pebbles. Pebbles accumulate heat during the day and release it at night. The result is a wine rich in alcohol. This area became famous thanks to the Chateauneuf-du-Pape vineyard.

Chateauneuf-du-Pape considered the most prestigious of the Mediterranean appellations of French legendary wines. It is located in the center of the Côtes du Rhône at an elevation of 120 meters. This appellation can be called a symbol of wine authenticity and a standard of scrupulous adherence to technology. In 1923, on the initiative of Baron Le Roy de Boisomarier, the first association was created to protect the name. To this day, the quality criteria developed in those years remain consistently strict. For the production of Chateauneuf du Pape, 13 grape varieties are allowed to be used. Respect for tradition and control at all stages of wine production guarantees the highest quality. This special wine even uses a special bottle embossed with the papal coat of arms.

These red wines are spicy and crimson with deep color and aromas of spice, powerful, superbly balanced, and have the rare quality of aging gracefully without losing value. White Chateauneuf di Pape, which makes up 5% of the appellation's harvest, has a subtle, unique bouquet. The best producers: Bonneau, Bosquet des Papes, Vignobles Brunier, Chante-Cigale, M.Chapoutier, Clos du Mont-Olivet, Clos des Papes, Font du Loup, Font de Michelle, Fortia, Grand Tinel, Marcoux, Mont-Redon, Nalys , La Nerthe, Pegau, Quiot, Rayas, Sabon, St-Andre and Vignobles Brunier.

Gigondas tries to get closer to the Chateauneuf-du-Pape standard, but the wines of the Gigondas appellation are heavier and meatier. In them, the fruity tones are often drowned out by the taste of pressed grape skins. Red Gigondas, also available in rosé, is also highly valued by true wine lovers. The best producers: Guigal, Montmirail, Les Paliiferes, St-Gayan, Raspail-Ay.

Lirac often underestimated. This area southwest of Chateauneuf produces excellent fruity reds and rosés that are fresh and inexpensive. The best producers: Aquaria, Fermade, Maby and La Mordoree.

Tavel- it’s always rose wine, quite expensive, but very tasty. Tavel unexpectedly stuns with his powerful action, ensuring that he is appreciated. Rosé Tavel has been rightfully considered the first rosé wine in France for a long time. The best producers: Aqueria, Forcadiere and Trinquevedel.

Cotes du Rhone-Villages- always red, quite earthy, slightly dusty, with a wonderful bright crimson tone. It glorifies this region throughout the world. The best producers: Alary, Brusset, Grangeneuve, Rabasse-Charavin, Richaud, Trignon, Perrin et Fils, Chateau Gigognan.

Cotes du Rhone main appellation producing fresh, fruity red wines, relatively inexpensive, reminiscent of Beaujolais. It is the size of this appellation, located in the south, that makes it comparable to all the wines of the Rhone Valley. Here, 44 thousand hectares produce 2.2 million hl of wine per year. All 163 communes of the Côtes du Rhône, belonging to six departments, try to produce good quality wine from a dozen grape varieties.

Of the red varieties, Grenache predominates here, giving the wine an oiliness and strength. Cinsault, used in the production of rosé wines, gives the wine an elegant fruity bouquet. Syrah makes itself known with peppery notes. The wines of the Cotes du Rhone are strong and robust, many of them are traditionally offered to guests of the Roland-Garros tennis tournaments and the Cannes Film Festival. More and more vineyards in this area are moving into the more prestigious Côtes du Rhône-Village category, and 4 appellations produce wine under their own appellations: Tricastin, Ventoux, Luberon and Vivaret. Among the best producers: Cantheride, M.Chapoutier, Fonsalette, Chateau de Beaucastel, Grand Moulas, Guigal, Lionnet, Pelaquie, Charles Thomas, Perrin et Fils.

Rasteau famous for its natural sweet wines. A decent dry red is produced here, along with fortified reds and whites, which have already gone out of fashion, but still find their admirers. The best producers of the Rasteau appellation: Soumade and the Rasteau cooperative.

Beaumes-de-Venise- this is first of all Muscat (Muscat). Soft, berry reds and fortified, aromatic whites are delicious, balanced and rich in many fresh nuances. The best producers of Musca de Baume de Venise: Coyeux, Durban, Jaboulet.

Cotes du Vivarais is a region in the western Rhone whose light red wines are made from Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan varieties.

Coteaux du Tricastin According to its natural qualities, it is considered a poor, parched land. However, it will produce good, inexpensive wine, good quality and simple. Top producers: Grangeneuve, Tour d’Blyssas and Vieux Micocouliel.

Cotes du Ventoux spreads across broad southern slopes east of the Rhone. Local wines are very similar to Beaujolais Nouveau. They are light and fruity with distinct strawberry tones. The best manufacturers: Anges, Jaboulet and Pascal.

Cotes du Luberon produces light reds, fresh fruity rosés and white wines with apple tones. The best producers of the Côtes du Luberon appellation: Canorgue, Isolette Val Joanis and Vieille Ferme.

The classification of local wines is similar to that of the Northern Rhône: there is no Grand Cru or any other system that distinguishes the best wines within an appellation. Most wines are produced under the overarching Cotes du Rhone label.

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The Rhone Valley (Vallee du Rhone) is essentially a regional appellation of Cotes du Rhone, located in the south of France. The Rhône Valley vineyards produce a significant portion of the total wine produced in France, making the region one of the three largest French wine regions.

The palette of wine produced in the region is diverse: it produces both very well-known names of white, red and rosé wines, for example, from the Chateauneuf-du-Pape appellation, as well as almost unknown ones, but distinguished by their own style and individuality. Therefore, every year the wines of the Rhone Valley become even more famous and popular in all corners of the world.

The Rhone Valley wine region is located along the Rhone River, which originates in the Swiss Alps and, crossing the territory of France, flows into the Mediterranean Sea. Its borders lie between the cities of Vienne in the north and Avignon in the south. Region due climatic features divided into northern and southern regions. These two parts do not have a common border, that is, there is no place on the map where the northern appellations are adjacent to the southern ones, so it turns out that the Cotes du Rhone appellation is also divided. The fact is that between these two areas there is a fairly large zone that is unsuitable for making high-quality wine. Therefore, the central part of the Rhone Valley falls out of the wine industry, and only further down the Rhone do appellations appear again, but this time belonging to the southern part of the region.

The vineyards in the Rhone Valley are located in areas with different topography - these are valleys, hills, and mountain slopes, where soils with different compositions alternate, which are suitable for different grape varieties. The climate of the two regions, northern and southern, into which the valley is divided, is also different. In the north, the vineyards are located in narrow boundaries on the banks of the river, and in the south they spread out much further. Therefore, in the vineyards of the northern Rhone, where the climate is cooler and the terrain is more mountainous, the grape varieties are not always the same as in the southern Rhone, where the climate is hotter and the area is valleys and hills. However, there are also universal varieties that can be found in both areas, but, as a rule, the wines from them differ from each other.

The main red varieties grown for wine production in the vineyards of the southern Rhone are: Mourvèdre, which produces spicy and tannic Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines, Grenache Noir, which gives the wines a rich taste and spicy notes, Cinsault, which gives the wine a pronounced fruity bouquet, and Carignan. And also the Syrah grape, which in the south works well in blends with other varieties, and in the appellations of the northern Rhone practically forms the style of red wine of this region. In the appellations Cornas, Côte-Rôtie this character is most pronounced, producing dark wines with deep fruitiness and notes of pepper and resin. White wines of the region are created from the varieties Marsanne and Roussanne, which harmoniously complement each other in the northern region, the rather rare variety Viognier, which produces wines with an unusual taste combination of overripe fruit and floral freshness, Muscat, from which excellent still wines are obtained in one appellation, and in another - exquisite sparkling, and other varieties.

Not so long ago, Rhone wines, with the exception of a few names, were not very widely known, but today the situation has changed, and many admirers of the style of this region have appeared around the world. In our boutique you can find white, red and rose wine from most of the appellations of the Rhone Valley, both northern and southern. It can be either the products of producers of the largest appellation - wine from

This thrice anathema article is prohibited from reading by the Holy Catholic Church, Benedict VIII and Ignatius Laiola.

So, we say, on October 11, 1303, Pope Boniface went to heaven with number “8” (not without the help of the current king of France and his gauntlet named Nogaret). His successor, Clement V, considered it beneficial for his life and holy Catholic faith to move from Rome to Avignon. Good King Philip 4 the Handsome, distinguished himself by the consistent suppression of riots in France (and the riots in Italy were suppressed by his brother Charles), the introduction of taxes for the church (of course, for the needs of the war with England), as well as the burning of Jacques de Molay, the Grand Master of the Templar Order, did not prevented His Holiness from changing his place of residence. By the way, a certain Dante in his Comedy called Philip not Handsome, but Iron. Considering the beauty standards that prevailed at that time, for our taste he is, indeed, more Iron than Handsome.

In fact, Europe at that time was experiencing a transition from an ineffective feudal system to a harsh but fair autocracy. Philip, who pursued a policy of centralization in France, having moved the Pope to his south, resolved two important issues for the country at once: a single faith and the annexation of most of Languedoc and Provence to his royal domain of Ile-de-France (about the unlucky descendants of Boson II, as well as we will write about the Counts de Nimes, de Rouigre and du Narbonne a little later).

It is also worth noting that, having torn off a significant piece of the lands of the Provencal counts in the southwest, and the Dukes of Burgundy in the north, Monsignor Philip, having depleted the treasury, marked the beginning of a centuries-old feud between beautiful France and, at that time, not yet accepting (by decree of Henry the Eighth) Anglican the church for the state doctrine, England, which at that blessed time was completely Catholic. In our deep conviction, neither the wars of the Armagnacs with the Burgundians, nor the Aquitaine Wars could serve as the root cause for an incredible number of local wars and conflicts in Europe than the Avignon Captivity of the Popes. All the Hussites, Žižkovites and Jansenists (not to mention the Huguenots) sprang up from seeds sown in the fertile soil of the south of France.

Meanwhile, not far from Avignon, a magnificent papal residence was built - to the envy of Rome and the amusement of the crowd. No Pope has ever visited her. So it goes.

Our story begins with the vineyards, which were supposed to serve the papal table and accompanying sacred rites. Then such small-town vineyards as, for example, Cahors (taken by the first Bourbon, Henry the Fourth, in his maiden/youth of Navarre, literally three days) were opened for winemaking. And before that, Cahors, the fortifications of which were rethought by Cal IX and rebuilt by Henry III, was considered absolutely impregnable fortress).

What is the difference between Northern and Southern Rhone? In a nutshell.

Only at four.

And he was right.

The words spoken by the author after suppressing an attack of embarrassment should be imprinted on the brain of everyone reading this opus like a red-hot horseshoe: Syrah - Monosepage, Grenache (and others, such as Cinsault, Mourvedre and Carignan) - an assemblage. The author of these truly immortal lines did not even meet the promised four words, but his work lives on. However, he himself is well.

“Syrah is a monosepage, Grenache is an assemblage.” These words are worth remembering for anyone who wants to have at least some understanding of wine drinking.

The wines of the Northern Rhone are good for their single-seed Syrah, which we have already had the honor of informing our dear reader about. By the way, those few remains of pre-phylloxera vines that still survive in France, and throughout Europe, are located there. However, in the Rhone, as in neighboring Burgundy, merchants and cooperatives flourish, and, unlike the same Burgundy, they produce far from the most elegant wines. We strive to show all the dynamics of the taste and aroma of Rhone wines, so we will rely not on the producer, but on the places where the grapes grow.

Consequently, we are interested only in those three relatively small areas in the north that produce the most characteristic wines.

The northernmost appellation of the Rhône, Côte-Rôtie – the best place for the production of Syrah.

Under the influence of the Kingdom of Burgundy, which included most of the Northern Rhone, monosepage became common here, and, naturally, with the cultivation of a single variety, winemakers reached unprecedented heights in understanding and developing it. Pre-phylloxera vines, as we have already said, are present here, being the glory and pride of the local vineyards.

However, let's put historical research aside.

The slopes on which the vineyards of Cote Rotie are located are made of shale rocks and have a slope of forty-five to sixty-sixty-five degrees. The south-eastern orientation of the vineyard provides the heat-loving Syrah variety with sufficient warming (Cote-Rotie translates as “Warmed Slopes”), simultaneously with night cooling - the climate here is still continental: influence Mediterranean Sea is not felt due to the whimsical terrain. The river meanders intricately among the monolithic granite hills, which makes the penetration of humid, hot Tyrrhenian winds very difficult.

Of course, we could dedicate a whole book to Côte-Rôtie, because he is quite worthy of it, talking about the difference between Côte-Blonde and Côte-Brune, into which Côte-Rôtie is divided. However, for the very understanding of wine, it will be better if we immediately move on to organoleptics, and the reasons why it (organoleptics) is such.

If until the mid-19th century, wines from Cote-Rôtie were sold in huge seventy-six liter amphorae, then with the advent of progressive technologies, everything changed decisively. Master Guigal himself, one of the most influential winemakers of the Rhone, separating the Blonde and Brune vineyards (and before that, the wines from these vineyards were blended, although the soils, based on the names, are completely different, and the grapes, accordingly, too), began to age the wine in oak for for as many as forty-two (!!) months, creating the glory of Cote-Rôtie as the new Romané-Conti. If you don't take Monsieur Guigal into account, the general trend remains: good new oak and aging for at least a year.

Thus, the character of modern Cote-Rôtie wines emerges: Powerful, but without excessive astringency, with unrivaled raspberry-chocolate aromas, complemented by prunes, cassis, honeysuckle jam, tobacco, pepper and, partly, leather.

We have already said, and we will not hesitate to repeat, that single-varietal wines are the most beautiful from the places where they were born. The historical tradition and experience accumulated over centuries allow us to speak about the excellent quality of autochthons. We believe that the Syrah grape variety (in the modern sense, that is, from the end of the fourteenth century) was born in the Côte-Rôtie region. However, the truth, as always, is somewhere nearby.

Having more or less understood the specifics of Côte-Rôtie, we move on to the appellations of Condrieu and Chateau Grillet. We mention them together because one is inseparable from the other.

Let's start with Condrieu. First of all. It is located on terraces, like Cote Rotie, only these terraces are so small that it is possible to plant vines on them in just a few rows. Imagine how slowly small streams make their way in a powerful granite massif, and you will have an idea of ​​​​what enormous work Nature has undertaken so that hardworking people, after thousands of years of hard work, could break streams on a small piece of horizontal earth that formed on the site of the once inaccessible steep cliffs, vineyards.

The vineyards are located on several such terraces, sometimes called valleys, which is not entirely correct, since these terraces are not located between the mountains, but directly on their slopes. The vineyards face strictly South, which gives the Viognier variety, the only one allowed for production, plenty of sun and warmth. In addition, in order to plant a vineyard, one indispensable condition is necessary, namely: complete protection of the vineyard from northern winds. Thus, even without touching the sea, Condrieu turned out to be a very warm place.

Now the Condrieu vineyards occupy 93 hectares, which is quite good, for an appellation that withered in the mid-twentieth century, the declared maximum yield is 37 hl/ha, and the actual one is about 20, which is one of the lowest indicators not only in the world, but also in France .

Juicy and fresh, oily and subtle Viognier from Condrieu is another sash on the chest of France, another diamond in its crown. Indeed, these Viogniers are one of the most controversial and, at the same time, the most balanced white wines. Brightly fruity, but citrusy, fleshy (may the reader forgive us for such an epithet in relation to white wine, but it reflects the true essence), but elegantly fresh, Viognier from Condrieu is wonderfully good paired with a wide variety of dishes. Starting with an aperitif and ending with cold beef. Soups, seafood, partridge, turkey, lamb, even pork. This Viognier is probably the most gastronomic white wine in the world. You can buy white wine in Moscow on our website.

Now a little about Chateau Grillet. This tiny vineyard will probably soon become the new Grand Cru, since everything we just said about Condrieu also applies to Chateau Grillet. The area of ​​the vineyard is only about four hectares, the soil, surprisingly, is sandy, with a small clay content, the exposure is strictly southern, the height of the vineyard is 150-200 meters above sea level, and the average age of the vines is forty-five years, forty-five, think about it! And, my God, what a Viognier!! We were not afraid to put two exclamation marks in the previous sentence, because such a Viognier deserves three. Slender, elegant, with an inimitable character, dressed with excellent taste, this Viognier resembles a dandy of the late seventeenth century, in front of which all other white Rhone wines look, if not a hillbilly, then at least pathetic provincials.

After such enthusiastic reviews of Condrieu and Château Grillet, we can take a calmer look at the Hermitage.

To begin with, as always, a little history. The legend (like all legends, extremely incorrect and inaccurate) says that in 1224 the knight Henri-Gaspard de Sterimberg (yes, a very French surname, but the knight was from Lorraine, you understand. By the way, Lorraine is named after its founder - one of the sons of Charlemagne - Lothar), returning from the Jerusalem campaign, received on a hill, which later received the name Hermitage, a place for living, relaxation, meditation, asceticism and other things that were quoted at that time. Henri-Gaspard, being after all a Frenchman (that is, even preaching asceticism and abstinence, could not do without good wine), immediately ordered to cut down the bushes growing on a granite hill, covered with a thin layer of fertile soil and turf, and plant them on it (the hill). ) a vineyard made from vines allegedly brought directly from the holy land. Then he built a chapel and a skete on the hill, in which he lived as a hermit (some linguists tend to translate the French word “Hermitage” as “skete,” finding in it sounds related to the Greek transcription of the word “σκήτη”). The chapel still stands today, being one of the oldest in Europe.

That is, returning to the beginning of our story, we note that the Rhone Valley is indeed extremely rich in ancient monuments of the history of Christianity, and simply history.

However, let us turn our attention to the viticulture and winemaking of the Hermitage.

So, Hermitage Hill, where about one hundred and thirty hectares are given over to vineyards, is a granite, almost round base on the left bank of the Rhone River. Scorched by the sun from the South, it is reliably sheltered from the Mistral from the North by the relief that we have already discussed: Cote Roti is shielded from the Tyrrhenian winds by the Hermitage itself, and the Hermitage, in turn, feels completely safe from the cold thanks to Cote Roti. A wonderful symbiosis, isn't it?

Of course, there are also terraces here, but they are not as steep as in Cote Rotie. The sun warms them more slowly, but longer, which contributes to a more delicate aging of Syrah in this appellation (and here there is also Syrah, this is, after all, the Northern Rhône). What's so great about the most popular vineyard in the Northern Rhône? It's all there! - here is our answer. All the red and black wild berries, their confiture, their seeds, leaves, the soil, in the end, on which they grew. But, besides this, sweet flowers and bitter dark chocolate, followed by white, almonds, candied tangerines, rancio! The Hermitage is great and beautiful, however, it has to wait ten to fifteen years for its greatness (the maturation of the Hermitage is a topic for a dissertation). The author of these lines prefers Cote-Rôtie, as it is more subtle, but cannot help but pay tribute to such a wonderful place for the production of noble wines as the Hermitage.

There are five other appellations in the northern Rhône that are worthy of description. However, not all of them are presented in Russia, and those that are presented are of interest only to those experts who are able to understand them without our essay. Our goal is to introduce the inquisitive reader only to the basics, so that later, having formed his own opinion about winemaking, he would remember in his evening prayer Sergei Sergeich, who showed him the road leading to pleasure.

Therefore, we move on to the Southern Rhone, where the most interesting wines also await us.

Therefore, having left the territories of the former Kingdom of Burgundy, we are moving south, to the once independent counties.

The climate of the Southern Rhone is strikingly different from the Northern Rhone. The Mediterranean rules here: the Southern Rhone is not as tall as the Northern Rhone, but it has gained weight in the waist and hips. We'd like to make a few jokes about Barbary influence, but we won't.

The place, by God, is charming: neither the Mistrals passing to the west, nor Piedmont, which is to the east. Peace and grace... if not for the devastating wars between the Catholics who fought for Ile-de-France, and the Jansenists, Huguenots, Gascons and... we almost said Trotskyists (who appeared a little later).

However, it’s worth correcting yourself a little: the mistral is present in the Southern Rhône, but only slightly. Vintners even use it, planting vines at a certain angle to it (the Mistral), so that the wind lifts their leaves upward, to obtain more heat.

If, as we said, monosepage and Syrah reign in the North, then in the South it is the assemblage and Grenache is its prophet.

Here is a list of the most important varieties to remember:

1. Grenache
2. Mourvedre
3. Carignan
4. Cinsault

By the way, Senso used to be called, what do you think? Hermitage Museum! And together with Pinot Noir, they gave birth to the main autochthonous South African variety, Pinotage. Pinot (Noir) + (Ermie) Tage = Pinotage. So it goes.

And here is an incomplete list of permitted varieties in the Southern Rhône: Aubuun, Bourboulenc, Calitor, Camarese, Clerette, Clerette Rose, Coonhuise, Gamay, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeo, Marsanne, Mauzac, Muscardin, Oyad, Pascal Blanc, Picardan, picpoul blanc, picpoul noir, pinot blanc, pinot noir, roussan, syrah, terre noir, ugny blanc, vaccarese, vermentino (locally called roll), viognier. The list is incomplete, but my head is already full.

Well, we will start, of course, with the pearl - Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Situated almost in the center of the Southern Rhone, it is characterized by a variety of soils. At its core, Chateauneuf is also a hill (where else to build a papal residence - on the banks of an unknown stream?), The terraces of which are composed of quartzite pebbles mixed with red loams, although there are also limestones, marls, and sandstone. Of course, such a soil assortment (sorry for the vulgarism) cannot but affect the style of the wines. 93% are red, which is not surprising. Grenache Noir plays the leading role in them, then everything depends on the soil and the whim of the winemaker. Some of the wines born there, like Beaujolais, produce floral fruitiness, are drunk young and are unable to age. Others, on the contrary, are inclined, like a genie, from Arabian fairy tale, sit in their bottle forever and punish anyone who dares to let them out (we mean the incredible aging potential of these wines and the aromatics that can destroy in their sweet embrace everyone who dares to inhale and feel it. Death, however, will be easy, and will transfer, albeit briefly, only until awakening, to Eden).

In any case, at first, the aroma of Chateauneuf is easy to perceive and pleasant. Another thing is that, having revealed itself, it will give true pleasure only to the chosen ones, and, moreover, by it. Yes, not everyone can understand Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and your humble servant, like many before and after him, did not fully comprehend the essence of the wine born on a sunny hill, near the former papal residence. Vixi et quem dederat cursum fortuna peregi - old Virgil was right.

However, the Romans, although they laid the foundations of viticulture and winemaking in France, Spain, Italy, and throughout the entire Oecumene of that time, should not think too much of themselves. By the way, you can buy Italian wine on our website. Having said a kind word to the author of the Aeneid, we move on.

The next appellation we will talk about is Tavel. Tavel is a rose wine. We once said that the best rosé wines in France and, accordingly, the world are Provence, but we were talking about rosés in general. Tavel is special. There is a rule that you should drink rosé wines when they are youngest. In general, it is true, but there is an exception (perhaps the only one) in front of you. Tavel is a rosé that can age. Not too big by red wine standards, but enough for you to notice the difference.

Remember Philip the Fair? This was his favorite wine. The Sun King also liked it very much, and Balzac even considered it the best wine in France (though Balzac was not a nobleman and his tastes were relatively fine wines... you understand). Tavel, located opposite Chateauneuf, but across the river. In its eastern part sandstones and loam predominate, in the western part, further from the river, limestone. Unlike all other rosés, Tavel, where the leading varieties are Grenache and Cinsault (although seven others are permitted), prefers sand and clay. Therefore, right-sided (if the residents of Bordeaux and its environs allow us such an expression) Taveli are valued somewhat less.

Taveli, again, unlike (and it always differs from others in everything) from other rose wines, does not have a salmon color, but rather a garnet color. More precisely, the color of the juice of an unripe pomegranate. This is his characteristic feature. If you see Tavel aged two or three years, take it with confidence. The aroma is always bright berry, but with a certain acidity reminiscent of grapefruit and blood orange. In some cases, a floral tint may slip through, but this is rather the exception.

To sum it up, Tavel is not just a rosé wine that is good to drink with a lady in the summer heat, but also a very complex, sensual creation of Rhone winemakers, and should be treated with due respect.

Following the rules of court etiquette and serving dishes, we left for last -

Musca de Baume de Venise.

Not to be confused with Muscadet. Muscadet is a completely different variety. The rules here are fine-grained Muscat of Alexandria and fine-grained Muscat Pink. Thanks to these varieties and the warm climate, the wines from Musca de Baume de Venise are considered the second most refined sweet wine after Sauternes and the first in quality fortified, ahead of all, including Banyuls.

If the reader suddenly wants to while away the evening with a friend by the fireplace, like Messrs. Holmes and Watson, smoking fragrant cigars or filling a pipe, let him follow our good advice and take from the cellar (if the reader has a fireplace, there must be a cellar) a bottle of Musc. de Baume de Venise. Sweet, not sweet, but precisely sweet, the wine will go well with coffee, desserts, especially spicy ones; and fruit, which especially seduces the fair sex, and in general it is good on its own, with proper cooling.

The Rhone Valley is large, there are countless appellations in it (of course, INAO has already counted everything). We, due to our modest abilities, tried only to lift the veil separating us from the South of blessed France. We will try again and again, as long as Chambertin flows in our veins, to write and tell, but for now we are taking our leave. Please note that you can buy French wines in our wine stores.

Anna Lee Iijima, editor of Wine Enthusiast, learned first-hand during a wine trip through the magical Rhône Valley that a single wine region can produce distinctly different wines with distinct regional identities. Together with Anna, we will meet the legendary winemakers of the Rhone Valley, whose modest life is inextricably linked to the land, vines and such changeable weather.

If there are regions in the world that can illustrate for wine lovers in all colors the hard work of winemaking, then the Rhone Valley will be in the first place. The noble, elegant wines of the north and the hot, heady wines of the south, despite their differences, create the glory of the Rhone Valley.

A few weeks after the end of the November harvest, I embarked on an exciting journey through the vineyards and wineries of the Rhone Valley. Stretching across the region from north to south for more than 240 kilometers, this wine-growing zone is divided by the Rhone River, which begins its course in the Swiss Alps and then makes its way through southeastern France, heading towards the Mediterranean Sea.

The river valley separates the Massif Central from the Alps, and creates a corridor of Central Europe to the exit to the Mediterranean Sea. The Rhône Valley is considered a large region in the world of winemaking, where within 28 appellations the south and north, so dissimilar in their identities, come together, demonstrating the diversity of 27 grape varieties, terroirs and styles. But it is worth remembering that the dominance of the southern part in terms of the size of the vineyards is difficult to overestimate - 95% of all Rhone Valley wines come from the southern part.

The steep slopes of the northern Rhône, which can be seen in full beauty from the top of the idyllic Hermitage Hill near the iconic chapel-hermitage of St. Christopher, iconic of the Paul Jaboulet Hainet domain, are the spiritual home of the most noble examples of Syrah in the world. Wines from the legendary Hermitage, Cote-Rôtie, Saint-Joseph and Cornas appellations are sought after by the world's most famous wine collectors.

Experienced oenophiles will confirm that every encounter with the wines of the granite and slate terroirs of the Northern Rhone is a truly magical event. In winter, light snow cover can sometimes be observed in these vineyards, which confirms the northern origin of the wine. In contrast to the heights of the Northern Rhone, the traveler discovers the softer slopes and plains of the Southern Rhone, where it is difficult not to notice the colorful Mediterranean influence. Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah growing here are literally imbued with the hot and life-giving energy of the sun.

Southern Rhone

A few hours after a tiring flight from New York to Paris, bleary-eyed but very thirsty, I arrived at the first point of my wine route - Château L'Hermitage, belonging to the Costier-de-Nîmes appellation. Once considered part of the Languedoc zone, since 2004 Costières de Nîmes has become the southernmost appellation of the Rhône Valley. Local red blends consist of grenache, mourvedre and syrah, which grow literally a step away from the Mediterranean Sea. The best examples from this area exhibit rich and enticing black fruit aromas. These are lush, fresh and slightly earthy wines that convey the energy of southern terroirs.

According to the chief winemaker and owner of Château L'Hermitage, Jerome Castillon, the local residents miraculously combine French, Italian and Spanish influences. “Here we like bouillabaisse more than cassoulet,”- Jerome confidentially reports while preparing brunch in a wood-burning oven in an old stable. Prepared in the simplest rural form, local dishes are striking in their variety - rich omelettes with wild mushrooms, fried eggplants with a thick tapenade sauce, sweet cherry tomatoes, fresh bread and an abundance of cheeses along with a variety of sausages.

Diane de Pumorand, founder and owner of Château d'Or et de Geulle in the Costières de Nimes appellation, is one of many dynamic female winemakers in the Rhône Valley. She left a successful business career in Paris and in 1989 acquired a winery, whose production at that time was aimed at selling bulk wine. Thanks to her efforts, the production has grown into a small winery that specializes in producing high-quality organic wines. The example of Diana and her small winery fits into the framework of modern winemaking trends in the Rhone Valley.

When I came to visit her, de Pumoran was entirely busy picking olives, her arms up to her elbows hidden in barrels with a well-deserved harvest. She took the time to take me on a walk through her vineyards. She calls the spreading 100-year-old vines of Mourvèdre and Carignan with extremely low yields nothing more than “grandmothers.” The famous cold northwest wind, the Mistral, blew so strongly that I could hardly keep up with the energetic and calm gait of the owner of these lands.

• rich and truly big wine from the Southern Rhone "Quintessence", Cotes du Ventoux, 2015;
• a hot GSM blend (Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre) from the Southern Rhone appellation called Lirac "Chateau Mont-Redon" Rouge, Lirac AOC, 2014;
• King of the Southern Rhone - Chateauneuf-du-Pape with excellent storage potential from the illustrious Perrin family Perrin et Fils, "Les Sinards", Chateauneuf-du-Pape AOC, 2014.

Northern Rhone

In contrast to the powerful and energetic wines of the south, the noble wines of the Northern Rhône are defined by their elegance, exclusivity and outstanding storage potential. Despite its fame among wine enthusiasts, the region's total wine production represents only 5% of all wines produced in the Rhone Valley.

Even renowned producers of the Côte-Rôtie appellation, such as Jean-Paul Jamet, have built their reputations in the wine world on properties totaling just 17 hectares. Syrah is the sole ruler in this region, only occasionally allowing the outstanding whites of Viognier, Marsanne and Roussanne to rise to the high throne. In the Northern Rhone there is a unique appellation with granite terraces, which is called the winery of the same name, Château Grillet, this is the only (!) producer in this zone that produces only white wines from the Viognier variety.

At first glance, it may seem that in the Northern Rhône everything works differently from the rest of the wine world. Judge for yourself - the ancient wine-growing commune of Sessuel (the city of Vienne), which is considered the northernmost in the Rhone and was known back in the days of the ancient Romans, has not yet received the status of an official appellation of the Northern Rhone. The thing is that commercial winemaking in this commune resumed relatively recently; many of the iconic winemakers of the Northern Rhone saw the potential of this zone, starting to plant vines on ancient terraces. At the moment, wines from Sessuel bear the modest name Vin de Pays, which makes them extremely attractive to connoisseurs of the price/quality combination. The best examples have the qualities of more expensive wines from Cote-Rôtie.

The top red wines of the Northern Rhône have a delicate combination of strength and subtlety, with dizzying aromas of violets, raspberries, olives, smoke, earth and smoked meats. The steep and rocky slopes on which the best vineyards lie prevent producers from using not only modern technology for processing and harvesting grapes, but even the favorite animals of many winemakers - horses. Working in these vineyards turns into difficult and sometimes dangerous work; some winemakers from the small Condrieu appellation hire local residents who are able to work at high altitudes using a safety net, almost like climbers.

Having seen with your own eyes the work of winemakers in the Northern Rhône, you begin to understand the complex price they pay for each bottle of wine they produce. There are no extra people in these places, because in order to engage in winemaking in this harsh region, you must devote all of yourself to this noble, but such a difficult task.

• wine from the historic Hermitage hill of an excellent year (vintage rating 10 out of 10) Tardieu-Laurent, Hermitage AOC, 2010;
• classic Northern Rhine blend of 95% Syrah with the addition of 5% white Viognier from the oldest domaine in Cote-Rotie Domaine Duclaux, "La Germine" Cote-Rotie AOC, 2011;
• a blend of 50% Marsanne and 50% Roussanne from the small Saint-Peray appellation from one of the most talented winemakers of the Northern Rhone, Pierre Gaillard Pierre Gaillard, Saint-Peray AOC, 2015.

The material was prepared based on an article by Anna Lee Iijima/www.winemag.com
Prepared and translated by Ilya Kuznetsov.
All rights to published photographs belong to their authors. Photos are published for informational purposes.