How to travel in Patagonia. Traveling through Patagonia - at the end of the world Chilean Patagonia - Torres del Paine
March 2017. Six months have passed since returning from Nepal. It's time to set off on a new long journey! The mouse cursor, rotating a three-dimensional map of the Earth in search of potential places for a trip, froze over the southern part of South America: rugged coastlines (Norway came to mind), mountains, lakes, nature - it all looked promising...
But it was in these regions, called Patagonia, that the heroes of Jules Verne’s novel “The Children of Captain Grant” walked and found a lot of exciting adventures! I wonder if, 150 years after the journey of Paganel and his friends, it is possible to visit Patagonia on your own and for a reasonable amount of money?
A short search on the English-language Internet (there is not much detailed information in Russian) - and all the necessary information was collected. As it turns out, Patagonia is very popular among hiking fans these days. The most picturesque places in Patagonia include El Chalten National Park, located in Argentina, and Torres del Paine National Park in Chile.
For lovers of comfort, El Chalten is recommended - there you can stay in the town of the same name El Chalten, live in a hotel, take light daytime walks around the surrounding area, and dine in restaurants in the evenings. The history of the founding of the town of El Chaltén is interesting: it so happened that there is no agreement between Argentina and Chile on the state border in that place, so the Argentines took the initiative and built a settlement to stake out the territory for themselves. Over time, the town turned into a famous tourist center. The main attraction of El Chaltén National Park is Mount Fitzroy (3405 m).
In another national park - there is practically no civilization; there are no towns like El Chaltén. But the nature and animal world are more diverse. They write that tourists can even meet a puma if they are lucky (it is not specified who will be lucky, tourists or a puma, however, South American pumas seem to be considered less dangerous than their northern relatives). The central part of Torres del Paine Park is occupied by the Paine mountain range, the peaks of which are almost 3000 meters high. Along the southern slopes of the massif runs the “W-Track” tourist route, so named because the path follows the shape of the Latin letter W. The route is about 70 km long and takes 5 days to complete. There is a longer 8-day route, the so-called “O-track”, which circles the entire Paine massif. During the warm season, there are several camps in the national park, where tourists can stay overnight in houses with shared rooms for 8–10 people or in their own tents (pitting tents outside the camps is prohibited). In terms of picturesqueness, Torres del Paine is not inferior to El Chaltén.
In the mountains of Patagonia there is the third largest (after Antarctica and Greenland) ice massif on Earth, forming 47 large glaciers. You can get very close to some of the glaciers; in some places they even organize excursions with a walk on the surface of the glacier.
Perito Moreno Glacier in the Argentine part of Patagonia. The height of the ice layer above the water surface is about 60 meters
Traveling to the other side of the world with mountains, lakes, glaciers and pumas - who can resist such a combination? So, we decided to go to Patagonia 🙂 April should have been a good month for the trip: it’s autumn in the Southern Hemisphere, there aren’t many tourists anymore, but the cold hasn’t set in yet. We had enough free time and finances to visit only one of the national parks, and after some reflection we chose Torres del Paine - away from civilization and closer to nature. Now we’ll tell you how to get there - maybe readers who want to visit Patagonia on their own will find this information useful.
As of 2017, there are no direct flights from Russia to Argentina or Chile (or indeed to South America), so you will have to fly with a transfer at one of the airports in Western Europe or in Istanbul. The prices are steep - options were offered that cost from 50 to 70 thousand rubles for a round-trip ticket in economy class departing from St. Petersburg or Moscow. Probably, in the high summer season from December to February, flights are even more expensive. We bought tickets from the Dutch airline KLM: we flew to South America with a connection in Amsterdam, and back from with a connection in Paris (return flights were operated by Air France on behalf of KLM). Travel time one way is approximately 3.5 + 13 hours.
Argentina, Chile and many other South American countries allow Russians visa-free entry for up to 90 days, which greatly simplifies preparations for the trip.
From Buenos Aires to Patagonia you can take a domestic flight to a small town (El Calafate), the flight time is about 3.5 hours. This route is operated by the Argentine airline Aerolineas Argentinas and the Chilean-Argentine-Brazilian Latam. The main attraction of El Calafate is the Perito Moreno glacier, photographed above. Tourist buses run from the city to the glacier.
Patagonia has a well-developed intercity bus service, and getting from El Calafate to the desired national park is not difficult. El Chaltén is located a 3-hour drive from El Calafate, Torres del Paine is a little further: first you need to make a 5-hour drive to the Chilean town (Puerto Natales), crossing the Argentine-Chilean border on the way, and then take a bus route Puerto Natales - Torres del Paine, specially designed to transport tourists to the national park. At least two bus companies in Patagonia can book tickets in advance online: Bus-Sur has a booking page on their website, and Turismo Zaahj accepts requests by email.
Patagonia can also be reached through Santiago, the capital of Chile. From Santiago to the city of Punta Arenas located in the very south of Patagonia, Latam and the budget airline Sky Airline fly, offering tickets at an attractive price of $50. From Punta Arenas to Puerto Natales you can get there in 3 hours by intercity bus. In 2017, it is planned to open an airport in Puerto Natales itself, after which getting to this town will become even easier.
Tourists who have a lot of time on their hands can arrive to Puerto Natales by ferry. Ferries run from the city of Puerto Montt to Puerto Natales by the shipping company Navimag. The ferry cruise takes 4 days, and judging by the photos available online, the views along the way are spectacular.
To hike in Torres del Paine National Park, you must reserve places online in the tourist camps along your route before your trip. Since 2017, such advance reservations have become mandatory as the national park administration, concerned about the increasing number of tourists, decided to limit the flow of visitors to a fixed number of places in the camps. Now tourists who do not show a reservation for each night of their stay in Torres del Paine may not be allowed into the park.
Map of the W-Track route in Torres del Paine National Park. Buses from Puerto Natales make stops at Laguna Amarga and Pudeto. You can get to the trek: from Laguna Amarga - by minibus or on foot, from Pudeto - by boat to the Paine Grande camp
Tourist camps in Torres del Paine are divided between Vertice Patagonia, Fantastico Sur and CONAF, a non-profit organization that manages nature reserves and national parks in Chile. Vertice Patagonia and Fantastico Sur offer guests accommodation in a dorm or tent, hot showers and meals, which are paid separately and cost the same as lunch in a not the cheapest restaurant. CONAF camps are free, but the only services available are a tent site and a toilet. Reservations for any camp can be made on the respective company's website.
We had no problems reserving places in the camps - another plus of traveling outside the high season. The prospect of spending the night in dorm rooms did not arouse enthusiasm, so we decided to go with a tent - it was more interesting and romantic. As for food, the backpack won a convincing victory in the battle of wallet versus backpack, and in order not to carry additional weight in the form of food during the hike, we booked breakfast, lunch and dinner at the tourist camps - since such an opportunity was provided, it made sense take advantage of it.
When viewing information about Chile, we were very interested in the city (Valparaiso): unique architecture included in the UNESCO World Heritage List, narrow streets on steep hills, historical funiculars - and all this on the shores of the Pacific Ocean bay. I definitely wanted to visit Valparaiso, so a stop in this city was added to my trip plan. Valparaiso is two hours away by bus from Santiago. Buses leave two or three times an hour, we booked tickets with Turbus (the website is in Spanish, but everything was clear).
The final plan of our trip included the following points:
- Flight to Buenos Aires, sightseeing.
- Flight to El Calafate, trip to the Perito Moreno glacier.
- Transfer to Puerto Natales.
- Completing the 5-day W-Track route in Torres del Paine National Park.
- Return to Puerto Natales.
- Transfer to Punta Arenas.
- Flight to Santiago, trip to Valparaiso for 2 days.
- Return to Santiago, sightseeing, flight home.
Everything you need for such a trip: flights, transfers, hotels - can be booked online, without even leaving the couch. We only encountered the following minor difficulties:
- Online payment for Vertice Patagonia camps did not go through. A day later, everything fixed itself - apparently there were some temporary problems with the site.
- For some reason, the online booking form for the Bus-Sur bus company did not work. We complained to them via email (in English, because we don’t speak Spanish) - they responded promptly, prepared a reservation with payment via PayPal, and after payment they sent a voucher, upon presentation of which a ticket will be issued at the bus station ticket office.
- With the airline Aerolineas Argentinas, as we found out experimentally, you need to book tickets from the American website. On the airline's European website (it looked more modern), Russia was not in the list of countries, and when choosing any other country, payments with cards from Russian banks were not accepted. There were no problems with payment in the American version.
So, we have booked tickets, hotels and places in tourist camps. In addition to the equipment we already had, we purchased: a light tent, sleeping bags with the funny name Cat’s Meow and a comfort temperature of about 0°C, compact inflatable mats weighing 450 grams, allowing you to sleep on the ground even at sub-zero temperatures. Now all that remained was to look forward to the day of departure.
Traveling Patagonia began in Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina. I arrived here a day earlier than the group, checked into a hotel and went to wander the streets in search of food, exchange offices and a SIM card with the Internet. Everything turned out to be more difficult than I expected - almost no one speaks English in Argentina, the main language is Spanish, of which I only know one and a half words. I didn’t buy a SIM card, but I managed to eat and change money. It should be noted that in Argentina there are two courses: black and white. A few years ago the difference between them was really big, but now it is virtually invisible. If on the official one they give 15.7 pesos for 1 dollar, then on the black one they can give 16.5. I always changed on the black market. It’s not difficult to find money changers - walk along Florida Street and you won’t miss it.
Buenos Aires is an interesting city, worth spending a few days here. See the tourist area of La Boca and the Recoleta cemetery. In the evening, go to a milonga and learn tango; it was in this city that this beautiful dance originated. If you don't want to learn, you can just watch while enjoying great live music and Argentinean wine. That's exactly what we did)
Traveling Patagonia - Tierra del Fuego
From Buenos Airos we fly to the ends of the earth, to the southernmost city on the planet - Ushuaia. While going through security at the local airport, I was very worried that the lard would not be taken out. Where can you go on a hike without Ukrainian lard? The meticulous inspector searched what seemed like the entire backpack, but found neither lard nor sausage. Lucky. Happy, I go out into the street, immediately catch a taxi and go to the hostel. Ushuaia, although it is the southernmost city in the world, reminded me a lot of or. Same architecture, similar climate, long days. There is absolutely no feeling that you are on the edge of the earth, everything seems familiar and familiar.
We arrived early, we had the whole day ahead. Let's go eat, and then sail on a catamaran along the Beagle Channel.
After 15 minutes we see the islands completely covered with penguins. But for some reason they take off. This is alarming. We swim closer - these are not penguins, but cormorants! Well, it’s okay, I went on this excursion for the sake of sea lions and they didn’t keep me waiting long.
Small stone islands are slightly less than completely covered by bodies clumsy on land. It looks very picturesque against the background of the lighthouse.
We circle around them for half an hour and return. Satisfied. For me, traveling is valuable because of new experiences, new places and new acquaintances. The weather and difficulties don’t matter, if you see something new, then it’s worth it. Traveling through Patagonia gave me a lot of new things and the sea lion deposits were just the beginning.
We are spending December 31st as actively as possible - a long walk through the Tierra del Fuego (Terra del Fuego) park with an ascent to one of the peaks is planned. But first, a must-see destination is the southernmost post office in the world. I send a couple of postcards and put a stamp in my passport. The postman is very impressive; he has probably worked here all his life. He puts his photo in his passport along with the stamp)) Then we go for a walk through the forests, mountains, and lakes.
We return to the hostel by 21:00 - it’s light outside. It gets dark here around 23-24:00. I love it when it gets dark late.
We celebrate New Year's Eve at the hostel, the owners set a delicious table with grilled lamb. Let's get to know each other at the same time. The whole group is very interesting and has been to a lot of places. Most are around 30-40 years old. With Argentinean wine and tender meat, all the stories go off with a bang. Around 4 am we go to bed.
The plans for tomorrow are an excursion to penguin island, which, unfortunately, I am not going to - there are no free places and the local organizers are in no way persuaded to take another one. It was necessary to make a reservation in advance.
I didn’t grieve for long, but decided to run. This is very significant - jogging on the first of January in the southernmost city in the world. I borrowed some sneakers from Anton, somehow got up in the morning (wine in Argentina flows very easily and in abundance), did some sluggish exercises and ran. The climate here is ideal for jogging - temperature 10-15, clean sea air. Somewhere after the 5th km I got into a rhythm and didn’t want to stop, but I couldn’t let myself down - tomorrow we’ll move to Chile and start the walking part of the route. Total standard ten.
I spend the rest of the day walking around the city. Beautiful architecture, but I don't take photos. For some reason, I almost completely stopped photographing cities. Traveling through Patagonia was no exception.
The group returns from the penguins satisfied. The island is mainly inhabited by Magellanidae - they are small, knee-deep, but there are also a couple of royal ones.
Well, it’s okay, I’ll go to Antarctica or somewhere else for penguins.
Chilean Patagonia - Torres del Paine
From Ushuaia our route lies to Chile. Many hours on the bus, most of which I slept. I think you should always sleep when you have the opportunity)) The rest of the day I admire the beauty of the flat Patagonia. It is the plains (and not the mountains) that are the main relief of the area. Outside the window every now and then you come across funny animals - guanaques, ostriches, sheep.
The iconic crossing point is the Strait of Magellan, which we crossed by ferry.
Time flies by, we cross the border and soon arrive in the town of Puerto Natales. A pleasant town located on the banks of a fjord with the very romantic name “Last Hope”. We buy groceries, enjoy the last Wi-Fi - there are mountains and a hike ahead.
An hour and a half bus ride and we are at the entrance to the Torres del Paine National Park. We buy permits, listen to instructions, sign the rules. Everything here is very strict; not long ago, an unpretentious tourist started a terrible fire that destroyed almost a third of the entire park. The wind is strong - the fire spreads instantly.
Closer to 5 pm we finally reach the trail. There are still about 18 km ahead... how good it is that it gets dark late, we can reach the parking lot before dark.
The first thing that strikes you about Patagonia is the abundance of daisies. There are millions of them. Otherwise, the landscapes of the first two days do not surprise me much. Cute, beautiful and familiar-northern.
Snow is falling in the morning. This is the height of summer in the southern south. But it is very beautiful - below there are fields covered with a white chamomile blanket, then a layer of green trees and snow-white mountains. Well, where else will you see this?
A surprise awaits us in this park - a new rule has been introduced and now campsites must be booked in advance. Nobody knew about this and we are trying to get through without reservation. But all the places have already been bought by the nimble Germans, the rangers are incorruptible. We have to change the route. We look at all the key points, but we don’t go through the entire O-trek. I'm not at all upset about this fact. We return to the Sharon campsite for the night.
Another transition that was not particularly memorable, but we got closer to one of the iconic points - the “Blue Towers” of Torres del Paine. This is one of the species for which I went to Patagonia. The towers are impressive. With a height of only 2500m, from close up they look like real stone giants. We spend an hour and a half at the foot, here you can even hide from the omnipresent wind. I’m filming a couple of time-lapses, while the guys from the group even take a dip in the lake. I didn't want to.
The next key point is Gray Glacier. There were some adventures here too. There are no camping places in the planned overnight location; you need to rent rooms in a hostel, which also does not have enough room for a large group. What to do, what to do... The Chief Ranger calls Camp Gray, which is located under the glacier and finds 6 free sites there - just what we need. As a result, we divide the group: Roma stays with the main part, I take 5 more boys and girls and go 11 km to Gray. We left at 7 pm and were already there by 9:30 pm. The road is beautiful, we actually ran along it amid constant jokes, stopping only for photos and to refresh ourselves with berries. We wanted to be in time for the store to close and buy a bottle of wine or something stronger for the evening - as a reward for such a long day. Did not have time. As a result, we clink mugs of water and eat pasta. The mood is excellent.
In the morning we go out onto the radial path to the Gray Glacier. He is good. The ice fields extend further than the eye can see.
On the trail we meet a Magellanic woodpecker - this bird is undoubtedly cooler than ours.
We pack up the camp and go to Lake Pehoe, where a boat awaits us. More precisely, he must wait. But the boat breaks down on the way and we spend a couple of extra hours waiting. A line is forming. We find ourselves in the second run. We go out onto the upper deck, take a photo with the navigator and jokingly invite Katya to steer. Jokes aside, Katya is not at a loss and approaches the captain’s cabin with a bold request. And what do you think? Blondes clearly have an easier life and are given a place at the helm. For the next half hour, the boat, wobbling more than usual, sails under Katya’s not very attentive control. Closer to the pier, Katya is replaced.
Due to the delay of the boat, the last bus to the campsite leaves before our arrival. We will evacuate in four-person cars. Locals let you into the bar-canteen to warm up and hide from the bone-chilling wind. There is a guitar somewhere, the second Roma starts the concert. In general, in our group there are actually two names for everyone. And there are even Teskies who were born on the same day.
Behind the guitar there is a bowl of mate somewhere, I buy two bottles of wine. Roma gets tired of playing, the guitar goes to the local. It was a great evening! Nobody wants to go camping or tents anymore.
But here I am leaving in the last car, thanking the guys for the cordial welcome.
Tomorrow we move to Argentina.
ABOUT! I almost forgot about the clouds! But they were divine! The whole day after the Torres towers we walked along Lake Nordenskjoid (it is about 20 km long) admiring the lenticular clouds. You can photograph such a sky endlessly. Well, tell me, how can I choose just a couple of photos?
Argentine Patagonia - Perito Morene and Fitz Roy
Another 4-hour bus ride and we are in the lovely Argentine tourist town of El Calafate. Near the city there is one of the most famous and beautiful glaciers in the world - Perito Morene. We are going to him.
As in the city itself, the tourist infrastructure near the glacier is thriving: there are restaurants, boat trips are offered, and crowds of people walk along the metal paths.
Despite all this, Perito Morene is impressive. The wall, up to 70 m high and 5 km wide, extends into the distance for tens of kilometers, merging with the Patagonian ice sheet. “Winter is coming” - Game of Thrones immediately comes to mind. Meanwhile, we walk along the paths, of which, by the way, there are quite a few here, and we rise higher and closer to the ice. With every step the glacier opens up more and more beautifully. At first it was just an ice wall, but now an endless ice plateau is visible.
Every 5 minutes, with a deafening roar, large and small ice floes break off the wall and collapse into the water. There is a crowd of onlookers with cameras standing around - everyone dreams of catching the moment of the fall.
After walking on land, we went to the glacier by water - by boat. The boat does not approach the wall at all, but such a walk opens up new views and angles. Everyone liked it.
This glacier will remain in everyone's memory for the rest of their lives.
But enough of civilization and metal trails, it’s time for us to go to the mountains again! After all, the basis of our trip to Patagonia is trekking and living in tents. We move to Los Glaciares National Park, closer to the famous Mount Fitz Roy.
They say it is often so cloudy that the stone giant cannot be seen for a week. We are lucky - all three days of trekking we admire the majestic peak.
The park takes an approach of minimal human intervention in nature, which is why the campsites are very modest. It's just tent sites and one toilet. This, of course, is a mistake. For hundreds of tourists, one is clearly not enough; you have to stand in a long line. This is a minor inconvenience that should not be ignored. There is virgin nature all around, beautiful mountains and glaciers, and you won’t find a piece of paper on the trails during the day with fire! If only we had such cleanliness!
They went to Fitz Roy radially, they say it’s not a canonical look, but I like it. We met a fox and a bird. The animals here are not afraid of people and let you get very close. I won’t describe the mountain, which has become a Mecca for photographers all over the world. I would really like to get here at sunset and at night.
This concludes the iconic places of the main part of the program, another day in Los Glaciares Park, walks to the glaciers and return to Buenos Aires.
Traveling Patagonia - Iguazu Falls
During my youth, in the first years of KPI, when VKonktakte was still gaining popularity and I was visualizing my goals, an album was created with the title “My Goals, My Dreams.” Now he seems to me very naive and for the most part with stereotyped “goals/dreams” imposed by society and the environment. But one of the goals was formulated something like this: “Visit the greatest waterfalls in the world.” Well, it has begun.
17 hours in a very comfortable bus passed quickly. Jokes with the division into favelas (cama) and masters (supercama), the opportunity to sort through photos, food and free wine - and now we are already in the town of Puerto Iguazu. Without wasting time, we change buses and go to the waterfalls from the Argentine side. We are in a hurry, because the entrance to the Devil's Throat closes at 4 pm. A 700m walk through the park, 20 minutes by local train and a little more than 1km on platforms over the water, and here we are at our goal.
I have seen many beautiful waterfalls, but this was the first time I saw so much falling water, beautifully decorated with tropical flora. The scale cannot be conveyed in words or photos. Iguazu consists of 275 waterfalls, each of which can lay claim to the largest and most beautiful waterfalls I have ever seen. The total width of the complex is 3 km, and the Devil's Throat is the most interesting (but not the most picturesque) place. The path actually leads to the place where the water falls, and the spray from the waterfall is better than any shower. Within a minute you are completely wet. It’s very difficult to shoot without getting the lens filled with drops, but we try.
Among the interesting things in the park, besides the waterfall, are a lot of noses, which I saw for the first time. There were also crocodiles, monitor lizards, monkeys, beautiful birds and butterflies, and a turtle.
For dinner we go to the buffet - these are brilliant establishments. You pay about 20 dollars and eat without restrictions, from juicy meat to desserts.
We get up early in the morning, without even having time to have breakfast. Today we are going to Brazil - to look at Iguazu from the other side. The first thing half the group decided to do was fly in a helicopter, including me. It's not cheap - 10 minutes for 130 dollars. But none of us had flown on helicopters before, and the flight promises new views of the waterfall complex. We're flying.
Of course, it’s not enough time, but I liked it. And the pilot’s turns over the waterfall and the breadth of visibility leave only the best impressions. From the air you can see the entire complex, which is virtually impossible from the ground.
The queue to Iguazu Park on the Brazilian side is visible from afar - several thousand people are twisted in a large snake at the entrance. We got caught... But everything is not so bad, the line moves very quickly - the Brazilians have learned to cope with such a flow. After 20-30 minutes we get on the bus and drive through the park. We get off at the stop where the main walking route begins. There are simply countless tourists here, you have to somehow make your way between them, wait for a place at the railing for a photo. But there are excellent panoramic views of the waterfall, which were not available from the Argentine side. There is also an opportunity to approach the “Devil’s Throat” in Brazil. It’s pouring even more here, and because of the water dust you can’t really see anything, so I decided not to go.
The Iguazu program was actually completely completed, we just didn’t have time to go boating. The waterfall left one of the greatest impressions in my life. This is truly an extraordinary place that everyone should visit.
By the way, the Iguazu Falls complex is one of the seven new wonders of the world.
The trip to Patagonia turned out to be very interesting and memorable. I'm sure I'll come back here again. And ahead of Mendoza and.
And tourism, of course. After all, the city is located right on the shores of the Strait of Magellan and is considered a starting point for various tourist routes in Patagonia. Magellan discovered these places in 1520, when his expedition was trying to find a way out to the Pacific Ocean from the Atlantic. Initially, he christened it the Strait of All Saints, and called the lands around the strait the land of the Patagonians in honor of the local peoples, whose size reminded him of the mythical giant Patagon. Hence the name of these places - Patagonia. The Strait of Magellan has the shape of the Latin letter S, and separates the Brunswick Peninsula, on which Punta Arenas is located, from the island of Tierra del Fuego, which is very close to the mainland; its outlines are visible from the Punta Arenas embankment. And it is called that because Magellan saw fire from the fires from the mainland that were used to warm the Selknam tribes inhabiting the island. It turns out that all the names appeared in these places thanks to Magellan. Colonization of these lands really began quite late, in 1843, when President Manuel Bulnes ordered an expedition to be sent from Ancud (Island of Chiloe) to explore these remote territories. This is how the first settlement arose - Fort Bulnes, where we, of course, later went. A little later, sheep were brought here from the same island of Chiloe, which gave impetus to the development of sheep farming. At the end of the last century, active colonization of these places began, a huge amount of land was distributed, and large farms were created. If the region of lakes was mainly visited by German settlers, Croats and English prevailed here. The most famous and wealthy settlers were the Brown, Menendez and Nogueira families. Punta Arenas is still decorated with the palaces of these families. In fact, they essentially completely exterminated all the local tribes of the Yaganes and Selknam, seized their lands, naturally becoming fabulously rich in the process. This retreat is for general development and a better understanding of the history of this region.
Having thrown our things into the room, we went to have a snack and see the historical center of the city. The weather was surprising with its sharpness and contrast - the sun was shining with all its might, but the icy wind literally knocked us off our feet. The temperature was about 13 degrees, but it didn’t feel more than 5. We immediately felt how strong and cold the wind was here, it just chilled to the bones, we had to warm ourselves up a lot, and I immediately bought myself a woolen hat and thermal strips for my ears. The main attraction of the city is the monument to Magellan, located in the center of the square. The monument is very original. the figure of Magellan rises on the pedestal, and at the base there are lying figures of representatives of local tribes. According to tradition, all tourists must kiss the foot of the Selknam, it is believed that then you will return to Punta Arensa. Of course, we immediately completed this mandatory part of the program and moved on longer.
Journey to the ends of the earth. Patagonia.
Patagonia is an untouched wild land that did not belong to any country until the 19th century. Now it is part of two states: Argentina and Chile.
This is where we are heading in February 2020!
We will spend 13 days on an amazing journey through the most beautiful corners of this region! We will enjoy the landscapes that we read about as children, empathizing with the heroes of the story “The Children of Captain Grand.”
Get ready! This will not be just a journey! This will be a real adventure in the spirit of wild Patagonia.
Group: from 6 participants
Travel format: hiking
Difficulty: medium
14 days in Patagonia
WHAT EXPECTS US
ARGENTINA:
- We will visit Los Glaciares National Park and the famous Perito Morena glacier, which is constantly in motion;
- Let's take a 3-day walk through Argentine Patagonia;
- We will meet unforgettable sunrises over the peaks of Fitzroy and Cerro Torre;
- Let's unite with world-famous Argentinean steaks;
- Let's get acquainted with the cozy mountain town of El Calafate, located on the shores of Lake Argentino - the largest freshwater lake in the country, with an area of 1.4 thousand sq. km.
CHILE:
- We will take a 4-day walk along the W-track route in one of the most beautiful parks in the world - Torres Del Paine, also called the Blue Towers;
- Let's enjoy the views of the Gray Glacier and the lake of the same name;
- We will see the most impressive panorama of these places at the famous “Torres Towers”;
- We will visit the world's southernmost continental city of Punta Arenas, where there is a view of Tierra del Fuego;
- Let's take a boat ride through the Strait of Magellan and observe the life of penguins and sea lions.
- Hiking experience: In order to visit these places, you don’t need to be an avid hiker with a lot of experience! We have guys taking part in our hikes who have never hiked in the mountains before and successfully complete the entire route, having tremendous fun!
- Physical form: The walking part of the route is possible for absolutely anyone with normal physical shape. You will find preparation recommendations
- What to take with you: We will send you a clear list of clothing and equipment that will be useful to you in Patagonia and will advise you on this matter more than once.
- During the walking part of the trip: We spend the night in campsites in tents. For guests there is almost always a cooking room, where you can also arrange evening gatherings, a shower and a toilet.
Program by day
If it were possible, would you be interested in traveling back in time, let's say, 3,000,000 years ago, and observing what our planet was like then?
So, this is real!
And we are going there in February 2020!
After all, it is by visiting Patagonia that you can see our Earth in its youth. After all, it is believed that for three million years its appearance has remained virtually unchanged.
Incredible, right?!
Join our journey and we will show you a truly amazing part of our Planet.
There will be something to tell your grandchildren someday, believe me!
We are waiting for you in our team! :)
14 days at the ends of the Earth!
DAY 1: Group meeting in Patagonia
El Calafate
Today is the day the group gathers in the city of El Calafate (Patagonia), which is located on the shores of the largest lake in the country called Lago Argentino, with an area of 1420 sq. km! Just imagine these scales!
We will meet you at the hotel, the coordinates of which will be sent closer to the trip.
Having rested after the flight, we go for a walk around the city. We will spend the evening in a “delicious” restaurant, where we will get to know all the participants while enjoying the taste of famous Argentinean steaks.
We have a long and bright journey ahead of us together.
DAY 2: Argentine Patagonia
El Calafate - El Chaltén - Rio Blanco
In the morning we take a bus to the heart of Argentine Patagonia - the town of El Chaltén. This is where all the Fitzroy Range trails begin.
We put on our backpacks and set off to the start of our walking journey. We will pass through an exotic forest along the shore of Lake Capri. On the way, we will have a view of the hallmark of Patagonia - Mount Fitzroy.
We will spend the night at the Rio Blanco campsite.
DAY 3: Dawn over Fitzroy
Rio Blanco - Capri
We get up at 4 am and go to the observation deck on the shores of Lago de Los Tress, which is right at the foot of Mount Fitzroy.
We meet the first fiery rays of the sun on the rocky surface of the mountain, absorb all the beauty of these places and descend back to the camp. Tomorrow awaits us there, our backpacks and a new day of interesting walking through Patagonia towards the Capri campsite.
DAY 4: Dawn on Cerro Torre
Capri - El Chaltén - El Calafate
Today we again begin our day by meeting the first rays of the sun. We enjoy an incredible panorama of the mountain range and one of the hallmarks of Patagoni - Mount Cerro Torre.
In the lagoon, at the foot of the mountain, calved icebergs often drift, which makes the view even more amazing.
DAY 5: Perito Moreno Glacier
El Calafate - Perito Moreno - El Calafate
Relaxation day! We take a bus to the largest glacier in Patagonia - Perito Morenay. Its area is about 250 sq. km
The speed of movement of this ice giant is about 2 m per day (700 m per year), but since entire icebergs break off from it every day, in fact, over the past 90 years, its edges have remained in the same place.
Closer to lunch, when the sun warms up the ice, we will be able to watch how, with an incredible roar, the blue ice separates with many fragments and falls into Lake Argentino. What a spectacle! Those who wish can even walk along the glacier and feel its grandeur even more. You must book a tour in advance.
In the evening we return to El Calafate.
DAY 6: Chilean Patagonia
El Calafate (Argentina) - Puerto Natales (Chile)
Our destination for today will be a small town on the western slope of the Andes mountain range - Puerto Natales (Chile). Which is located on the shore of a very narrow and long fjord, Ultima Esperanza, which is translated from Spanish as “last hope”. It is also one of the eight pairs of antipodean cities in the world.
We will live in a hotel. We check in and go for a walk.
DAY 7: Torres Towers
Puerto Natales - Torres Towers - Chileno Village
In the morning we take a bus to Torres del Paine National Park, which is also a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Finally, we put on our backpacks and set off on a 4-day hiking trip.
Today, the plan is to reach the Chileno campsite (5 km), where we will leave our things and from where our radial walk along the gorge to Lake Torres, above which rises the three rock peaks of the same name - the Torres Towers - starts. It is not for nothing that this main attraction of the park attracts so many tourists from all over the world.
We take a lot of photos, relax with a gorgeous view and slowly return back to the camp.
DAY 8: Turquoise lake Nordeskhold
village Chileno - village French
We set off further to explore Torres del Paine Park.
This region is rightfully considered one of the most beautiful places on the Planet with a unique combination of mountain landscapes, thousand-year-old glaciers, blue lakes, wild rivers, spacious valleys and green forests. Also, about 118 species of birds and 26 species of mammals live here. It will be interesting to meet a guanaco or an Andean deer along the way.
Today we are walking along the large lake Nordeskhold with incredibly turquoise water, the shores of which are strewn with small pebbles. If desired and the weather is suitable, you can relax here and take water treatments.
Towards evening we arrive at the campsite. Tomorrow is a special day.
DAY 9: B Ashni Los Cuernos
village French - village Paine Grande
After breakfast we go to the neighboring Italian campsite, where we leave our things and go on a radial walk.
We will walk through the French Valley - one of the most spectacular places on the track. Along the way, we will visit two 360° observation decks to enjoy views of the Cuernos Mountains, the Paine Grande peak, glaciers and the green expanse.
Patagonia will surprise you again with its wild landscapes! Then we return to our backpacks, have lunch and continue our journey along the shores of Lake Scottsburg. We will spend the night at the Paine Grande campsite.
DAY 10: Glacier Gray
K. Paine Grande
One of the most impressive days of the hike! We leave our things at the camp and set off by light pack to the Gray Glacier.
Its area is 270 sq. kilometers and it is part of the great Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the third largest reserve of fresh water on the Planet, after Antarctica and Greenland. In a word, a very spectacular place and one of the calling cards of the national park.
In this article we will talk about how to prepare and what to take with you when planning a trip to Patagonia, as well as how to see the most interesting places in the region in one trip: forests, fjords and famous glaciers.
Southern Patagonia, stretching across the territories of Chile and Argentina, has been attracting travelers for many centuries with its remoteness from the rest of the world, huge centuries-old glaciers and stunning wild landscapes. Here, in various national parks you can see snow-capped mountains, fjords and virgin forests. At the southernmost tip of South America, huge icebergs thunder as they break away from a huge glacier that has hidden the land for centuries and float into the ocean.
The most popular national parks, Torres del Paine in Chile and Los Glaciares in Argentina, are visited by hundreds of thousands of tourists every year. For the most complete tour of Patagonia, it is best to visit both of these regions in one trip. Of course, such a trip will not be budget-friendly, especially at the height of the tourist season. So, we offer an action plan for organizing your trip to this remote corner of our planet.
How to travel in Patagonia
When to go
Most hotels in El Calafate and Torres del Paine are open to tourists only from spring to autumn (taking into account the difference in seasons with the southern hemisphere of the planet, this is mid-September and early May), and only a few of them are open all year round.
To avoid crowds of tourists and at the same time catch good weather, it is better to plan your trip in the spring, when the first flowers appear, or autumn, when the leaves of the trees are colored red, orange and yellow. During the summer months (December-February) the weather is most comfortable, but keep in mind that temperatures rarely rise above 20°C and there is often strong wind.
Travelers should note that the weather in Patagonia is quite unpredictable, especially in spring and early summer. Temperatures can change dramatically, and a strong storm can come from the Pacific Ocean. When planning your trip, it is best to allow a few extra days in case of inclement weather.
How to get there
Since the territories of the countries of Chile and Argentina are quite large, you need to fly to Patagonia by plane (of course, if you do not have a few weeks left to travel by car or train).
During the peak tourist season (December-February), flights sell out quickly, so it's worth booking them as far in advance as possible: ideally six months before your trip. During other months of the tourist season (October, early May), you can book tickets three months in advance - this way you will avoid inflated prices and a limited choice of options.
In Chile LATAM Airlines flies south to Chilean Patagonia year-round, offering daily flights between Santiago and Punta Arenas. The flight time is just over 3 hours, the cost is from $130 round trip if you pre-book a ticket.
In addition, in December, the same airline offers an additional flight twice a week between Santiago and Puerto Natales (duration 3 hours 10 minutes), on the way back the plane lands in Punta Arenas. In January and February, the number of flights on this route increases to four per week, with ticket prices starting at $130.
Chilean low-cost airline Sky Airlines also offers direct flights from Santiago to Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas, but at lower prices. The cheapest tickets can be purchased by booking them in August. From December to March, Sky Airlines offers three flights per week from Santiago to Puerto Natales (costs from $70 when booked online). Two flights to Punta Arenas operate all year round: one direct and one connecting to Puerto Montt. During the tourist season, a third flight is added, its cost starts from $50 when booking online.
Between Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas the distance is three hours by car, between Puerto Natales and Torres del Paine National Park - two hours, and five hours between Punta Arenas and the park.
In the same time in Argentina The main gateways to Patagonia are the cities of El Calafate and Ushuaia. These destinations are served by LATAM Airlines and Aerolineas Argentinas.
During the tourist season, LATAM Airlines offers daily flights from Buenos Aires to El Calafate (flight time 3 hours, 25 minutes). Ticket prices start from $340. There are also flights from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia for $515 with a flight duration of four hours.
The cost of a flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate and Ushuaia, as well as between El Calafate and Ushuaia on Aerolineas Argentinas aircraft is from $80. Los Glaciares National Park, home to the famous Perito Moreno Glacier, is an hour's drive from El Calafate Airport. Another popular destination is the town of El Chaltén, located three hours from El Calafate.
How to navigate the region
Most of the best hotels in Southern Patagonia include airport transfers as well as transportation for daily excursions.
You can travel from Chile to Argentina and vice versa both by land and by sea. But, unfortunately, there are no direct flights between Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas and El Calafate or Ushuaia.
To travel by land, you will have to rent a car, find a guide with a car, or buy a bus ticket. Crossing the border between Argentina and Chile requires a five-hour drive across the Patagonian steppe from Cancha Carrera to Cerro Castillo. The way back is the same.
There are several good bus companies offering bus tickets for the Puerto Natales - El Calafate route: Buses Fernandez, Buses Sur, Buses Pacheco, Turismo Zaahj and Cootra. Buses depart every day at 7-9 am. The journey takes 5-7 hours, depending on the time spent going through customs control. Tickets cost from $80 to $130 per person and can be purchased either at the bus station or online. It is better to book tickets in advance, preferably a month before travel, especially during the tourist season.
By the way, there is a sea cruise route - Australis cruises. Travel from Punta Arenas (Chile) to Ushuaia (Argentina) starts at the end of September and lasts until the beginning of April. On this expedition, the ship passes through fjords, the most famous glaciers, crosses the Strait of Magellan and Cape Horn. Cost for three nights during the tourist season - from $1895 per person.
What to take with you
Since the temperature in Patagonia can drop from +20 degrees to -15 during the day, it is important to take appropriate clothing with you on your trip. On the road, take not only a waterproof jacket and comfortable boots, but also sunscreen and glasses - the sun shines very brightly here.
If you plan to stay in hotels overnight, a suitcase is quite suitable for your things; if you plan to go hiking, a backpack will do. On excursions and walks, it is better to take a small, comfortable backpack with you.
Take:
- Moisture-wicking thermal underwear
- Water-repellent hiking pants
- Light pullover or sweatshirt
- Fleece jacket or light down jacket
- Water-repellent warm jacket
- Sun cap
- Sunglasses
- Sunscreen
- Gloves
- Waterproof Hiking Boots
- Long warm socks
- Insect repellent spray
- Flashlight
- Backpack for walks and excursions
Traveling Patagonia: What to do in Chile
Tourists come to Southern Patagonia to see the majestic beauty of nature in Torres del Paine National Park (entrance fee is $38) and five of the most interesting representatives of the animal world of Patagonia: pumas, Guanaco llamas, South Andean deer, Andean condors and rheas. Of course, other animals live in this region, such as flamingos, foxes, penguins and more than 100 species of birds. For example, there are safari tours in which tourists travel through a national park for several days and track down pumas.
Also, visitors to the park can explore untouched forests, see unusual South American nature (lenga, coihue, nyire), meet the royal woodpecker and emerald parrot.
A walk along the popular "W" route (so named for its shape) offers the opportunity to visit one-of-a-kind freshwater lakes that can disappear literally overnight, turquoise lagoons, icebergs floating in the ocean and glaciers shimmering in the sun. The total length of the “W” route is 70 kilometers; you can cover this distance in 4-5 days, visiting the main attractions of the park and staying overnight in campsites or refugios (houses for overnight travelers).
Explore the colorful fishing town of Puerto Natales and explore the maze of picturesque fjords with huge blocks of ice and mysterious marine life, which can be admired from the board of a pleasure boat.
Near Punta Arenas you can visit the penguin colony on Seno Otway Island or Magdalena Island, and see sea lions and whales peeking out of the water. Here you can also kayak across the Strait of Magellan and even charter a boat to Clarence Island for skiing in complete isolation from the rest of the world.
Where to Stay in Chilean Patagonia
The best hotels in Torres del Paine offer a complete package that includes airport transfers, a variety of excursions, and three meals a day with good wines and cocktails.
Various hotels are located both in the park itself and in surrounding towns. There are many options - from luxury rooms with spa treatments to eco-camping in the middle of the mountains.
Many good hotels are located around the fishing town of Puerto Natales. You can even stay in a hotel near Cape Horn.
Local kitchen
Most hotels and private pensions offer excellent cuisine based on local products, for example, white strawberries, rhubarb, seaweed, Patagonian honey, guanaco, Patagonian hare. There are many seafood delicacies here: South American king crab, hake ceviche, conger eel, snook, stewed mussels and oysters. Order a Pisco sour cocktail or a bottle of vintage Chilean wine with dinner.
Day Trips in Chile
Hotels can usually find information about the many excursion options on offer for people of all fitness levels, including mountain hiking, horseback riding, biking, kayaking, fjord boating, glacier cruising and many other activities.
The most popular and most recommended activity is a hike to the Torres del Paine viewpoint. This is a difficult 8-hour round trip journey, but the beautiful views of mountain peaks and incredibly picturesque natural landscapes will be your reward for your efforts.
Also one of the most popular routes is the hike to Mirados Las Torres. Tourists pass the beautiful Lake Pehoe, and then go out to an area with picturesque mountain scenery.
You can book a tour of Gray Lake and sail to the Glacier Gray glacier, or from the pier in Puerto Natales go to the Balmacedi and Serrano glaciers.
Spend a day with Chilean cowboys at the family-run Estancia Mercedes ranch. Here you can ride horses among the fjords throughout the day.
Tips for tourists traveling in Patagonia in Chile
When visiting Chile during the summer months, protect yourself from midge bites. Apply insect repellent spray regularly and wear light-colored clothing with long sleeves (for some reason, local midges are very attracted to dark fabrics).
If you are an avid traveler, you can avoid the crowds of tourists in Torres del Paine by visiting these places in November or April.
Take trekking poles with you on your hike - they will help on steep descents.
Traveling Patagonia: Things to do in Argentina
Every year, more than 100,000 people visit the Perito Moreno Glacier, which covers an area of 250 km² in the Los Glaciares National Park (entrance fee: $260) and is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Located near the town of El Calafate, this glacier is one of three glaciers in Patagonia that continue to grow and increase in size.
On boat excursions you have an amazing opportunity to see huge icebergs sliding from the Perito Moreno glacier into Lake Lago Argentino. Sometimes you can even go out onto the glacier and walk on it, wearing special metal shoe pads that prevent you from slipping on the ice.
History buffs can get acquainted with the rural life of the Patagonian ranch Estancia Cristina, where life stood still as it was a hundred years ago. There is beautiful nature here, excellent places for hiking, horse riding and, of course, picturesque views of mountain glaciers.
Three hours by car from El Calafate is the small mountain village of El Chaltén. It is notable for the fact that the Fitzroy mountain peak rises next to it. Here you can find picturesque chalets, as well as ski slopes for skiers of all skill levels.
A trip to the province of Tierra del Fuego is a trip to the “end of the world.” Its capital, Ushuaia, is a port for ships traveling between Argentina and Chile. Book a boat tour to see the penguins, sea lions and cormorants that inhabit the Beagle Channel, made world famous by the work of Charles Darwin, who visited the area during his voyage on the Beagle in 1831.
In Tierra del Fuego National Park, tourists will see a subarctic rain forest with huge beech trees, and from the Martial Glacier there will be panoramic views of Ushuaia and the canal. Anglers from all over the world travel to the banks of the Rio Grande River in hopes of catching the largest brown trout, a fish from the salmon family.
Where to Stay in Argentine Patagonia
The main street of the city, El Calafate, Avenue del Libertador General San Martín, has many nice shops and restaurants, but the rest of the city, unfortunately, lacks such charm.
We offer an overview of the nicest places to stay.
El Calafate has two good hotels located on the southern shore of Lake Lago Argentino, these are Esplendor Calafate and Xelena.
Eolo Lodge is a 30-minute drive from El Calafate, but it occupies a huge area in the pampas and has excellent views of the lakes. Heavy antique furniture creates a cozy atmosphere for guests. Here you can also book excursions, mountain biking and bird watching. The hotel offers excursions to the Perito Moreno and Uppsala Glaciers.
Alternatively, travelers can take a tour from El Calafate or simply spend a few nights at Estancia Cristina, an early 20th-century ranch that raises sheep and offers boating opportunities on Lake Lago Argentino. The ranch occupies a huge area with the natural landscape of Patagonia, here you can go hiking, ride ATVs, sail on a schooner among the icebergs near the Glacier Glacier Uppsala. Meanwhile, keen fishermen can horseback ride to the glacial lakes near the hotel to fish for rainbow trout.
Nibepo Aike is a real ranch built by a Croatian pioneer at the turn of the 20th century. Cattle and sheep are still raised here, and guests are invited to feel like a real cowboy and leave the lasso, and for dinner, try asado - a traditionally prepared lamb dish. In the evening, guests can admire the Gorra, Frias and Dixon glaciers.
Between the villages of El Chaltén and El Calafate, the Estancia Helsingfors hotel is located - a village house on the shores of Lake Viedma with excellent cuisine and excellent views of the mountain landscapes.
Estancia El Condor is located five hours from El Calafate near Lake San Martin. The hotel was named due to the fact that condors nest in these places.
Los Cerros is located on the slopes of the mountains in El Chaltén. Aguas Arribas Lodge, an hour's drive from El Chaltén, is a secluded lakeside retreat with views of Mount Fitzroy.
In Ushuaia, the best places to stay are the Los Cauquenes and Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa hotels. There are excellent views of the Beagle Channel.
Local kitchen
Most hotels offer full board with three meals a day, but at the same time there are some local delicacies that are worth trying.
The town of El Calafate gets its name from the berries of the boxwood barberry, the national symbol of Patagonia, known here simply as califate berries. There is a local legend that whoever eats califate berries will definitely return to Patagonia. Califate is used to make ice cream, liqueur and delicious jams.
Tasting a real Patagonian asado is a “must-do” when visiting these places. Watch how to cook lamb asado over an open fire, with a glass of Patagonian Pinot Noir or Mendocinean Mablec in hand...
The Kaupe restaurant in Ushuaia is considered one of the best in Argentina.
The Cerveceria Beagle bar brews its own beer, using meltwater from nearby glaciers.
Probably the most famous Argentine drink in the world is mate. There is a real ritual of preparing and drinking mate tea (a mixture of dried herbs rich in caffeine): the tea leaves, poured into a hollowed out pumpkin or wooden cup, are poured with boiling water through a metal tube - bombilla. If the drink turns out to be too bitter, add a little sugar.
Day trips in Argentina
A trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares National Park is one of the most popular excursions in Patagonia.
There are day-long river excursions, during which tourists sail by boat across Lago Argentino and visit the Glaciar Uppsala, Spegazzini and Perito Moreno glaciers.
The excursion to Estancia Cristina includes boat rides near various glaciers and waterfalls.
Cañadon de los Fosiles is a five-hour hike along a route with scenic views of the lakes and Glacier Uppsala, and then descends into a valley where you can discover many fossils of ancient animals and plants.
From El Chaltén you can go on various walks through unusually picturesque places. The climb to the top of Cerro Torre takes 6 hours, a more difficult route to Mount Fitzroy and Laguna de los Tres lake. You can even go ice skating at the top of the Glaciar Viedma glacier.
In Tierra del Fuego you can explore the life of the flora and fauna of the Beagle Channel or visit Tierra del Fuego National Park with its picturesque panoramic landscapes.
Tips for tourists traveling to Patagonia in Argentina
Some hiking routes to the glacier may have age restrictions - from 18 to 50 years.
If you are planning to visit Estancia Cristina, please note that the boat here leaves from El Calafate early in the morning and returns late in the evening.
If you want to avoid the influx of tourists, visit El Chaltén in November or April.
Camping equipment is expensive in Argentina, so it's best to take it with you.
